Anti-pollution hair care claims: Moringa proteins enable formulators to make a new claim for hair care products.

ENVIRONMENTAL pollution is in the news. Not a day passes without media reports on damage caused by pollution: to nature and the environment, to our health and to our quality of life. In cosmetics, the negative effects of pollution on skin are well-documented. Skin care and makeup products delivering anti-pollution benefits have been marketed for nearly 15 years.

The situation is quite different in hair care. Though it's reasonable to expect that pollution has negative effects on hair, very few studies have proven it, and even fewer solutions are available. Skin has intrinsic mechanisms for defense against external aggressions such as pollution and repair of damage caused by them. Hair lacks such intrinsic protection and regeneration systems. Therefore it is important to develop topical treatments that can counteract these aggressions and repair damage caused by them.

In response to Ibis market need, Laboratoires Serobiologiques launched a fundamental research program to quantify negative effects on hair of exposure to environmental pollution: dust, exhaust gas and UV irradiation. This study, employing new test methods, identified and quantified these deleterious effects. In a second step, a new source of active ingredients for hair care was discovered, combining protective and repairing effects on hair. The result of this program is a new anti-pollution and conditioning hair care ingredient containing micro-proteins extracted from Moringa oleifera seeds.

Pollution and Hair

Urban environmental pollution contains gases and particles emitted from cars, industrial processes, and household sources. All of these anthropogenic contaminants contribute to degradation of the troposphere and stratosphere. The two best-known manifestations of man-made pollutants are global warming caused by increasing atmospheric concentrations of greenhouse gases, primarily carbon dioxide from burning of fossil fuels and increasing ground level UV.

Hair and skin are both subject to damage caused by pollution. Two new test models were developed at Laboratoires Serobiologiques to simulate these aggressions, and to measure their consequences on hair.

In an urban pollution test model, negative effects caused by simultaneous exposure to exhaust gas and UV rays on hair are evaluated. Hair tresses are put in an environmental chamber and stressed by exposure to exhaust gas/UVB irradiation cycles. Two biomechanical properties of hair, combing force and maximum combing work, are measured before and after three and six cycles. These two parameters reflect the ease of combing hair; the more the damaged the hair, the higher the values.

Exposure of hair to exhaust gas/UVB cycles increases both the combing force and the maximum combing work. The hair's surface is damaged, so it is more difficult to comb and is less soft to the touch.

In a dust particle test, the adhesion on hair of carbonaceous soot particles, similar to those prevalent in urban pollution, is visualized. Hair tresses are put in a glass tube. A defined quantity of soot from vegetal charcoal is sprayed on the hair. Excess soot is removed by standardized mechanical shaking, and-hairs are observed by scanning electron microscopy.

The photo at left shows that soot particles adhere to hair, and are not removed by mechanical agitation. Adherent particles produce a rough and dirty appearance. This study confirmed that hair damage caused by urban pollution is significant and can influence sensorial and mechanical properties of hair. Hair is more difficult to comb and looks dirty.

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An Anti-Pollution Active

The systematic study of a large number of new sources of active substances, and rigorous screening of active fractions derived from them, enabled us to identify Moringa oleifera as a source of proteins of great interest. Moringa oleifera belongs to the Moringaceae botanical family. Also named Moringa pterygosperma, this tree is considered a "miracle tree," because all of its parts arc used, especially for their pharmacological and nutritional properties.

Leaves are eaten as vegetables. When pressed, they are used in traditional pharmacology to stabilize blood pressure. The fruits, long seed-bearing pods, are mainly used in condiments or cooked as vegetables. Flowers produce a nectar and have anti-inflammation properties. The wood provides a blue dye and is used as fuel.

Moringa seeds are rich in proteins and oil. Moringa oil, also known as Behen oil, has been well-known since ancient times and was traditionally used in medicine, for beauty care and in the preparation of religious ointments. Today, the oil is used as a watch lubricant. Its use in commercial cosmetics is quite recent, but very promising.

Moringa seeds are also used in all tropical regions in the world for water purification. After crushing, the seeds are mixed with river water and allowed to stand. The flocculation of particles and bacteria in suspension is spectacular, producing clear, pure drinking water. The use of Moringa seeds in water treatment facilities for entire villages has been investigated in pilot studies. These well-known purification properties of Moringa seeds fit well with the current market interest in holistic and Ayurvedic approaches to personal care products.

While studying Moringa proteins we identified and isolated a specific protein fraction whose molecular weight is relatively low, 6,000-13,000 daltons, and whose isoelectric point is 10, so that it is cationic. This protein fraction gave very positive results in the treatment of hair against pollution.

Urban Pollution Test

This test was performed on hair tresses after treatment with a lotion containing 2% anti-pollution active (tradename: Puricare LS 9658) and after three exposure cycles to exhaust gas/UVB. Hair combing parameters are measured in comparison to hair tresses treated with placebo lotion.

The measurement of combing parameters shows a clear improvement of hair previously treated with a lotion containing the anti-pollution active. Combing force and maximum combing work are decreased by approximately 30%.

Dust Particle Test

Hair tresses are first treated with a shampoo containing 2% anti-pollution active. Charcoal soot particles are then sprayed on hair. Treated hairs are inspected using scanning electron microscopy and the fractional area coverage of the particles on hair is quantified by numerical image analysis (Photo 2). Hair treatment with a shampoo containing 2% anti-pollution active decreases significantly the adhesion of soot on hair surface. The area covered by soot particles is 38% less than on hair previously treated with a placebo shampoo. The use of a shampoo containing the anti-pollution active preserves hair cleanliness and inhibits adhesion of urban particulate pollution on hair.

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Other more conventional tests have also been performed with the new anti-pollution active, and have shown:

* a very good hair conditioning effect (scanning electron microscopy),

* a significant strengthening effect on hair fiber (traction test) and

* a protective effect against UV damage (test with dansyl chloride).

Conclusion

This research program allowed us to quantify the damage to hair caused by its exposure to exhaust gases from internal combustion engines, UVB irradiation and particulate pollution. We also developed a new active ingredient for hair care. This new product (trade-name: Puricare LS 9658) is based on solid scientific evidence and is backed by strong claims substantiation. It is very easy to formulate, in any type formulation (shampoo, lotion, balm), and does not modify the color, odor or stability of hair care products. It can be used in crystal-clear shampoos.

With dual activity, anti-pollution and conditioning/strengthening of hair, this Moringa oleifera seed extract, is a globally-acceptable, innovative solution for hair care.

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References

(1.) Anonymous: La pollution de l'air et notre sante. Actualites Pharmaceutiques, no 363, 50-52 (1998)

(2.) Kernier, C. Pollution atmospherique: quelles menaces, quels espoirs? Actualites Pharmaceutiques, no 385, 6-8 (2000)

(3.) Kerharo, J.; Adam, J.G. La pharmacopee senegalaise traditionnelle. Vigot Freres Paris (1974)

(4.) Ndabigegesere, A.; Subba Naraiah, K.; Talbot, B.G Active agents and mechanisms of coagulation of turbid waters using Moringa oleifera. Water Research. 29, 703-710 (1995)

(5.) Gassenschmidt, U.; Jany, K.D.; Tauscher, B.; Niebergall, H.R. Isolation and characterization of flocculating properties from Moringa oleifera. Acta Biochim. Biophys. 1243, 477-481 (1995)

(6.) Dweck, A.C. African plants. Skin and hair care material from bark, leaves, oils and roots. Cosmetic & Toiletries. 112, 41-51 (1997)

(7.) Sandhu, S.S.; Robbins, C.R. A sensitive fluorescence technique using dansyl chloride to assess hair damage. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 40, 287-296 (1989)

More info:

Laboratoires Serobiologiques Division de Cognis France 3, rue de Seichamps 54425 Pulnoy, France Tel: [phone] Fax : [phone] www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com

Isabelle Armand-Stussi, Olga Freis, Philippe Moser and Gilles Pauly

Laboratoires Serobiologiques Pulnoy, France