Animal magic.

IF you're offered the chance to observe the greatest animal migration on the planet across northern Tanzania, like me you'd probably jump at the chance. It's only later that you start to worry about comfort, safety and the eight and a half hour flight.

Kenyan Airways did us proud, even managing to give us a great view of the highest mountain in Africa as we transferred from Nairobi for the short flight to Mount Kilimanjaro airport.

We were soon comfortably seated in Toyota Land Cruisers for the 2,000km journey through the National Parks of North Tanzania. First stop was Lake Manyara Park, a Rift valley soda lake with a shoreline outlined in pink by flocks of lesser flamingo, the land rising up to thickly wooded mountains.

The grasslands are dotted with giraffe, impala, buffalo and elephant, and the different elevations create amazing habitats for flocks of birds, with over 430 species recorded in this one small park.

The park also boasts tree-climbing lions, which we saw up among the acacia branches.

At Lake Manyara Tree Lodge you sleep in one of the 10 tree lodges on stilts with a big decking viewing area. There's nothing to stop the growling lion I heard that evening coming into camp- it makes you grateful for the reassurance of a Maasai warrior escorting you to dinner in the main building, carrying his traditional spear and waving his modern torch. One guest watched a bull elephant graze around his lodge.

After a great breakfast with local fruit and freshly baked bread, our journey took us along the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater - it's known locally as the eighth wonder of the world - before dropping down onto the Serengeti, a Maasai word meaning endless plain.

However often you've seen it on television wildlife documentaries, the reality is always going to be heart stopping. On our way down the highlights were a family of five cheetahs sunning themselves, and among one rocky outcrop were two dozing lions.

That many predators must mean plenty for them to eat, and we soon spotted the clouds of dust that showed we were coming upon the annual migration of zebra and wildebeest. They had given birth three months before but now the heat was drying the waterholes and forcing them to move on.

Our route lay through the herds, and zebra and wildebeest glared at us before scattering away from the vehicles. None of us was prepared for the scale of this, nor the incessant noise; the rut was in full swing and males grunted all the time as they sparred over the females.

The Serengeti Under Canvas campsite was in a wooded area at the base of gently rolling hills. There were eight tents with two larger tents which housed the lounge and dining room. These are moved every six weeks to follow the migration across the plains.

The tents were classic safari style with Indian rugs, polished brass samovars and washbasin, a flush toilet and an alfresco shower, with hot water as required.

TRAVEL INFORMATION . For prices holidays to After dinner we sat around the fire swapping our experiences with other guests. The full moon shining down on the woodland, the constant calls of the animals and the crackling of the firewood created a magical African safari memory. The next morning our Maasai butler David delivered coffee and biscuits to the tent at 6am, as we sat watching the sunrise on another day of migration emerging from the trees 150 yards away. We call 0845 were told a pride of lion had visited the camp during the night but left without incident.

After breakfast we headed north to the Grumeti River, a crossing point for the migration - we were told zebras normally lead the migration but when they reach a river they hang back until the crocodiles are full of wildebeest and it's safe to cross. We settled into Grumeti River Camp overlooking the river, which echoed to the sounds of hippos grunting and splashing. These bad tempered beasts are the most dangerous for tourists, and we were happy to give them a wide birth.

Next stop was the Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, originally built as a hunting lodge in the 1930s. In the 1990s it was replaced by three lodges designed on a theme of a Maasai homestead. Each lodge is run independently, and the main building housing the lounge and dining room resembles a stately home with open log fires, leather chairs, crystal chandeliers and wood panelling.

tailor-made visitholidaysplease.co.uk or 3656565 The next morning we drove down into the crater passing herds of Maasai cattle. Here you can see all of the big five in one game drive. In one grassy area full of yellow and purple flowers we came across a pride of 13 lions, including seven cubs.

A fantastic trip that embodied the African safari, with a degree of safety and comfort that has taken years of experience to achieve. Don't you owe it to yourself, just this once?

CAPTION(S):

A snapshot of the Serengeti and (from left) lodges at Ngorongoro Crater, Grumeti and Lake Manyara