An oriental espress(o) of tradition and taste - Indian coffee.

Let me take you on my magic carpet to a country of the Vedas, one of snake charmers, spicy cuisine, and a warm exhilarating beverage - this is India and its coffee.

Most people around the world are familiar with fine Indian teas, but are surprised to learn that India produces coffee as well. In fact, even coffee professionals are surprised to learn that India is the fifth largest producer of Arabica beans in the world, behind Brazil, Colombia, Mexico, and Ethiopia. Today, Indian coffee is slowly and steadily being accepted as a well-balanced coffee, with fine liquoring qualities and excellent blending attributes.

How has this recognition from quality Indian tea to quality Indian coffee taken place? This is a story steeped in myth, tradition, research, cultivation, quality control, and marketing.

The Coffee Bean Journey to Indian

India's romance with coffee goes back nearly 400 years. Legend has it that a pilgrim, Bababudan, on his travel to the Holy Land came across coffee in Yemen around 1600 AD. He found the drink rejuvenating and desired to bring back the precious seeds to his native place - India. However, the Arabs who brought coffee from Abyssinia (now Ethiopia) for trade with Europe tightly controlled this commodity, such that no trader was permitted to take 'live' coffee seeds out of Yemen they had to be either partially roasted or boiled so as to eliminate their germination. Interestingly, Bababudan, in order to take live seeds out of Yemen, is said to have strapped seven coffee seeds around his waist and smuggled them out of the country. He then planted them close to his mountain cave near Chikmagalur, in South India, which is now considered the cradle of Indian coffee.

Cultivation of Coffee

Coffee cultivation in India was started on a commercial scale by the British in the early 19th century. The tropical climate, fertile soil, scientific cultivation on hill slopes, selective picking of coffee berries by deft human hands, and the painstaking processing of coffee have helped to unfold the full flavor potential in every Indian coffee bean.

The traditional coffee growing areas are in the three southern states: in the Coorg, Mysore, Bababudan, and Biligiri regions of Karanataka State; Wayanad, Travancore, Nelliampathi, and Kannandevan regions of Kerala and Niligris; and Shevaroys, Pulneys, and Annamalai regions of Tamilnadu. At present, there are approximately 140,283 farmers who produce an average crop of 190,000 tons (approximately three million bags) of Arabica and Robusta in almost equal proportion. About 60,000 tons (approximately one million bags) of coffee are consumed domestically - the remainder is exported.

Most Indian coffee plantations grow fruits and spices along with coffee. This diversified pattern of growing various crops along with coffee has helped the economy of the Indian farmer. Spices such as cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and pepper - in addition to arecanut, oranges, and pomegranates - grow alongside, helping the farmer to augment his income from the plantations.

It is also interesting to note that the coffee beans tend to acquire some of the taste and aroma of these spices, giving them a taste that is uniquely Indian - a hint of spice.

Strains and Selections of Coffee

Today, the plant strains which are cultivated on the Indian plantations are Research Station Selections 795, 9, and 12 (Cauvery) of the Arabica variety, and the 274 and CxR of the Robusta variety. The three indigenous species of coffee - Bengalensis, Travancorensis, and Wightiana - which were found in the forests of South India have been found to contain hardly any caffeine (approximately 0.4%) and research is being undertaken to develop these species on a commercial scale.

Quality Evaluation and Assurance

Until the coffee season of 1991-92, the Indian Coffee Board received all the coffee grown in India. The quality (visual and cup) of coffee was assessed for purposes of payment to the farmer, marketing, and quality control. After this period, a wave of liberalization set in, with partial decontrol of the marketing of Indian coffee during the season of 1992-93. Total liberalization of the coffee industry took place in 1996-97, entitling the Indian farmer to market 100% of his produce on his own.

Thus, as of the season of 1996-97, while the Quality Control Unit of the Board continues to evaluate the quality of coffee of those farmers who desire this evaluation, it is no longer mandatory for the coffee farmer to surrender his coffee to the Board for quality evaluation, marketing, and payment. The horizon has opened and, with it, the options for quality assurance, quality marketing, and quality evaluation.

For evaluating the technical nuances in coffee, a laboratory for coffee - Coffeelab, the first of its kind in the private sector in India - was set up in Bangalore in 1996. The laboratory has been helping the Indian farmer in his quest to upgrade the quality of his produce by improving his processing techniques, marketing his produce with an estate marking, certifying his coffee, helping him to prepare coffee as per buyer requirements, and analyzing whether his coffee has those special attributes which could make it a "jewel in the crown." Also, for the overseas buyer, Coffeelab has been evaluating the pre-shipment samples of coffee vis-1-vis his specifications, for certification and clearance for shipment.

Quality of Coffee and Regions of Cultivation

Apart from variations in quality due to plant material, the region of growth also affects quality - especially in the cup.

Mysore, the erstwhile 'Princely' State of Palaces and Maharajas, is today the region of quality Mysore coffee. Mysore Arabica coffee is mainly grown in the two districts of Chikmagalur and Hassan in the state of Karnataka, in South India. The two districts are major coffee producing zones, with the area under coffee being approximately 85,000 hectares and the production estimated at 61,000 tons

Mysore coffee has a visual quality of long wide beans, grey to blue in color. The cup has mild body with fair acidity and a fine subtle flavor. The beans are sought after, especially in the U.S., as they have a fine blending quality.

The Bababudan Hills near Ghikmagalur are often referred to as the 'Giris,' where coffee planted at high altitudes has flourished and continues to flourish - yielding high quality dense coffee beans. The cup has good body, fine acidity, and an aromatic bouquet, finding appreciation in the Japanese and gourmet markets of the world. This coffee has the distinction of lending itself to a dual role of not only providing the base for espresso, but also highlighting the exotic dark roasted espressos.

On the other hand, Coorg, in the state of Karnataka, produces both Arabica and Robusta coffees at a quantity of approximately 60,000 tons. The elevation in the region, which is between 2,000 and 3,500 ft., is especially suited to growing Robustas. This region produces the finest Robustas in India, with the beans being compact, oval to round in shape, with pointed tips and a golden brown color. The processing technique for the preparation of Robusta cherry coffee is excellent. Additionally, the Robusta parchment prepared in this region is of the highest quality, with the beans having a greyish blue color and a soft, neutral cup. The Robustas from Coorg have been very well appreciated in Italy, Germany, Switzerland, and the U.K.

Niligiris, in the southern state of Tamilnadu, a high mountain range wherein the well-known hill station of Ooty is located, has both tea and coffee plantations. The coffees from this region, though in small quantity - approximately 900 tons - are of excellent quality. The beans are large and elongated with tight white center cuts, possessing full body, good to fine acidity, and a fine flavor which is not seen in coffees obtained from other regions. The flavor of these coffees, which are comparable to some of the finest coffees from Ethiopia, have been appreciated by German and Japanese buyers who find the flavor and acidity excellent components for canned coffee.

The coffee in Shevaroys - a bucolic belt on the Yercaud hills of Tamilnadu - is grown at between 3,500 and 5,000 ft., and produces Arabica coffee of aromatic quality. The beans are medium to bold in size, dense, green in color, having fine acidity and a fragrance which has a hint of spice. This coffee growing zone is in the rain shadow area and produces some of the finest Indian coffee beans.

Kerala, a land of historic culture and the highest literacy rate in India, produces some of the best Robusta cherry coffees in India. The Nelliampathy and Wayanad regions in this state produce Robusta beans which are known for their compactness and bold size - possessing golden brown color, strong body, and a bright neutral taste in the cup.

Positive Features in the Processing of Indian Coffee

Growing under shade - not only to ensure well-developed coffee beans, but also for the coffee plants to be subjected to minimal disease and pest attacks - has been the cultivation practice since the inception of the Indian coffee plantation. India not only produces quality coffee, but has also taken steps to preserve the flora and fauna of the coffee growing areas.

Selective picking, with harvesting of only just-ripe berries, is advocated. As an alternative, the sorting of berries after picking is suggested.

Natural fermentation is stressed, and the removal of mucilage is carefully monitored to enhance flavor development and to prevent any off taste in the cup.

Sun drying, after repeated washing of the naturally fermented coffee, is carried out - resulting in well-washed and well-dried coffee beans.

Pollution control, by lagooning, is mandatory on the plantations to preserve the quality of life on the coffee farms.

Modern processing equipment and storage in jute bags manufactured with vegetable oil are positive features in the processing of Indian coffee.

To top it all, in today's coffee marketing scenario in India, the coffee can be prepared as per the Indian Coffee Board's standards (plantation A, B, C, etc., based on the size of the beans and the defect count), estate marking, and/or buyer requirements.

Special Coffees from India

Being well brought up at home has emboldened Indian coffee to enter the exciting arena of specialty coffees. It is a well-established fact that the specialty coffee movement the world over, especially in the U.S., has gathered momentum and it is understood that the specialty coffee sector is growing at an annual rate of approximately 15% in the U.S.

The specialty Indian coffee, which dates back to as early as 1970, is the Monsooned coffee - a coffee which is unique and unusual, unlike any other coffee in the world.

The color, shape, and size of the monsooned coffee beans are the result of special post-harvest processing and can find no parallel anywhere in the world. These coffees are prepared on the west coast of India during the monsoon months of June to September, when the unwashed coffees acquire a special mellow flavor. While the monsooned beans have the appearance and, perhaps, a few characteristics of aged coffees, these coffees are positively not aged coffees. They do not have the distinct musty aroma and taste which you often associate with aged coffees. On the other hand, the neutral mellow flavor of these coffees lend themselves to being light on the stomach and especially help those who stay awake at night due to regular coffee to enjoy their cup.

The Monsooned grades which are especially sought after in the international market are the Monsooned Malabar AA, Monsooned Basanally, and Monsooned Robusta. These coffees come into the market in October and are available up to January of the next year, approximately one year after the berries were picked.

In the 1990s, the two special coffees of Mysore Nuggets EB and Robusta Kaapi Royale were launched by the Indian Coffee Board to cater to the growing discerning demands of the specialty trade. Mysore Nuggets EB is a Washed Arabica coffee with good body, good acidity, and fine flavor, with perhaps a hint of spice to remind connoisseurs the world over of its Indian origin. This coffee is prepared from certain hand-picked regions of growth and are subjected to stringent processing and quality evaluation before being offered to the gourmet sector. The Robusta Kaapi Royale is prepared from selected Robusta blocks and is the cleanest, boldest Washed Robusta anywhere, with a soft and neutral cup.

We are now continuing our efforts to give you many more special coffees in the future. Preparations are being carried out on selected farms to enable brand imaging of special coffees, plant strains, and subtle flavored coffees. The recent visit of a delegation of the members of the Specialty Coffee Association of America to India in January of 1998 also highlighted the need for specialty coffee and for India to focus on processing skills to produce clean, washed, and dried beans, and to produce specific varieties of coffee which it lacks at present.

We have taken note of the world coffee market requirements and special attention is being bestowed on every aspect of quality, so that coffee lovers around the world can be taken aboard our magic carpet to a beverage of fine qualities. My country offers you not only a million thrills of waterfalls, elephants, tigers, and seaside resorts, but also a fine cup of Indian coffee, of tradition and rich taste, to complement your dinner of delicious Western cuisine or Spicy Indian Tandoori.

Sunalini N. Menon has been handling the quality control and quality assurance for Indian coffee for more than 20 years, checking quality with the aid of visual and cupping techniques. She is one of India's recognized coffee cuppers, having standardized the quality specifications, both visual and in the cup, for Indian coffee. She was the director of quality control at the Indian Coffee Board until 1995 and is now the chief executive of M/s. Coffeelab Pvt. Ltd., a laboratory set up in Bangalore in 1969 responsible for evaluating the unusual and vibrant quality overtones of Indian coffee, and providing the much-needed seal of quality to the producer, exporter, trader, or consumer of coffee.