Amuse-bouche.

small FOOD

is the ever-popular small bite of food, typically known as amuse-bouche, an offspring of the hors d'oeuvres mentioned in August Escoffier's culinary masterpiece, Le Guide Culinaire? The answer to that question is not entirely clear-cut, but Escoffier's hors d'oeuvres were most likely precursors to these small bites of food that are popular additions to contemporary dining. The beauty of these delicious morsels is that they serve several purposes: They give the diner an impression of the chef's style, highlight seasonal foods, encourage feedback from diners, and serve as a trial balloon to test-market new menu items.

Although Escoffier may have considered hors d'ouevres an adjunct to the main meal, over the years chefs have reconsidered the role of hors d'ouevres and tailored them to what we now refer to as amuse-bouche or "small food." Legendary food writer M. F. K. Fisher has likened small food served before the main course to an operatic overture. She goes on to state, "As such, [small food's] variety is infinite, dictated of course, by the seasons as well as the regions where the food is eaten." In all likelihood, both Escoffier and Fisher would concur that almost any menu item can be served as a small food, simply by altering portion size.

Amuse-bouche has been described as "little bites of food to amuse the mouth, invigorate the palate, and whet the appetite, as served in fine restaurants." In informal settings, they're also referred to as amuse-gueule or amuse, "casual little bites to whet the appetite before a meal, typically served in a bistro or brasserie. "All variations stem from the word "amuse" and their purpose is to appeal to the diner's sense of humor and to "supply amusement or diversion by specifically being prepared in contrived methods." Whether you label these culinary jewels amuse-bouche, appetizers, hors d' oeuvres, small bites, canapes, mezze, or small food, their primary gastronomic mission is to wake up your palate with their intense and concentrated flavors, no matter where they end up in the course of your meal.

First Impressions

Appearing on restaurant and catering menus alike, small food serves a multitude of functions. Served at the beginning of a meal, it satisfies the curiosity of a diner as he or she samples a taste of a chef's cuisine. It's just one of the varied ways for a diner to get an impression of a chef's style of food.

Offered between courses, small food serves as a makeshift tasting menu and has additional virtues that shouldn't go unnoticed, as well. One advantage of serving small food between courses is to enable the chef to look at a diner's menu choices and choose a small food based on these choices. As an added benefit, chefs will often serve small food to preferred or regular patrons that frequent their establishments. It's just one "small" but meaningful way to show appreciation to their loyal guests.

The custom of ordering several small food items rather than one large entree has been has been popular since the 1990's. Sometimes referred to as "grazing," this style of dining allows patrons to sample more flavors, enjoy a more varied meal, and share in a communal style of eating.

The Spice of Life

Chefs use a wide array of ingredients in preparing these small treats and, in turn, this diversity opens the door for unique presentations. Although many chefs use foods that can be typically found in a walk in or pantry, some chefs delight in special ordering unique and often expensive ingredients to help showcase their talents. Others glory in the process of putting an unusual twist on both classic and contemporary fare. The range of small food is infinite; it serves as a great prelude or intermission to a meal, and when executed well, showcases a chef's creativity, knowledge, sense of taste, and--perhaps--artistic touch.

Because of its versatility, it's not hard to imagine why small food is so engaging. For the most part, diners are more than willing to indulge in food that they might normally consider off limits--if it's served in a bite-sized portion. Who doesn't enjoy the prospect of unwrapping these provocative jewels that delight all the senses? These little gifts from the chef prove that "the best things come in small packages."

anita LO

restaurant Annisa is much like the chef that runs it--intimate, gracious, warm, and inviting. Chef Anita Lo has found her calling in a kitchen whose size borders on that of a typical walk-in closet. Luckily, file size of her kitchen does not dictate the type of food she creates; she has reached her goal of serving "food that tastes delicious first of all, is interesting, and makes sense," with diners and critics alike extolling the virtues of her great tasting food on a regular basis.

Chef Lo's journey has taken her down a path that she initially never thought of while attending college. It was only after graduation that she Rot the "food bug" and went the route of so many other famous chefs--working in the best possible restaurants both here in the States and in Europe: "I've been interested in food pretty much since I graduated from college; it was the road I wanted to take. I had been studying French and had gotten my degree. I attended La Varenne for four weeks while in still in school. Since I had done the language program, I had decided to go back to France to continue my verbal skills and ended up going to cooking school instead. After graduating from cooking school, I worked at Bouley and believe it or not, did canapes (They're going to haunt me for the rest of my life!). But it was interesting because we did a large variety of these small foods on a daily basis. I was at Bouley for about a year and then went back to France and got a degree from the Ritz Escoffier. From there, I ended up at Chanterelle and worked with David Waltuck when he was on the line--that was a great experience. After working at a couple of more places, I was finally able to open up my own place. It's been wonderful to have complete freedom and control--I think the food is more a part of who I am at Annisa."

When asked about the feeling of many in the industry that small food or a chef's cuisine is a window into his or her culinary soul, Chef Lo laughs quietly. No stranger to this subject, Lo is quick to give her opinion on the matter: "I've heard chefs say things like--which I think is ridiculous--that everyone knows me intimately by eating my food--this sounds pretty self-important to me. I wouldn't say my personality comes through in my food, but maybe it's reflected in the fact that I'm well traveled. I think that interest of mine sort of comes through by sheer means of my exposure to so many different ingredients."

david WALTUCK

david Waltuck is not your typical grew up around gourmet food or the restaurant business; he didn't even have a mentor to inspire him. However, his intelligence and passion for food were enough to guarantee his success in the restaurant industry. After trying his hand at biological oceanography in college, Waltuck traveled throughout Europe for six months. It wasn't until then that he decided to begin cooking professionally. After gaining experience in a restaurant in New York City, he decided to attend The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. A student externship led him to Tavern on the Green in New York City, and even though he returned to school for a short time, he decided to withdraw because he felt he could learn more by working in his chosen profession. After a two-year stint at La Petite Femme in New York City, he decided to open up Chanterelle in Soho in 1979. However, after staying in the thirty-seat restaurant for nearly ten years, he and his wife, Karen, moved Chanterelle to a larger location in TriBeCa.

Although Chanterelle has changed locations, the style of Chanterelle's classical French cuisine has changed very little. According to Waltuck, "The main change is that there are a lot more things available to work with now than in 1979. Also, I think that I'm a little more open to different cuisines and ingredients that are not from the European realm of food. I like strong flavors and powerful sauces. I don't go in for very elaborate presentations; I like a certain level of simplicity on my plates." Just like Waltuck's personality, his food portrays itself modestly: "My food doesn't go out of its way to call attention to itself. There are layers of flavor and there's a certain intelligence that informs [customers] why things are on the plate and why things are put together. It's really thought-out and that also reflects my personality."

In fact, the whole restaurant seems to reflect Waltuck's personality. He says, "The feel of Chanterelle ... the dining room ... the service ... the ambiance ... I think is very different than any other restaurant in the sense that there's a calm about it even at its busiest."

Waltuck is still just as passionate about the restaurant as he was the day he opened it. "We're constantly working on making it better. We never thought we were there; we still don't. We always think there's more to do," says Waltuck. His determination and hard work ensure Chanterelle's rating as one of the top restaurants in New York City.

Oyster Vichyssoise

(Makes 5)

ingredients

For the lobster stock:

1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 onion, peeled and chopped
1/2 carrot, peeled and chopped
1/2 rib celery, chopped
1 clove gallic, peeled and smashed
1/2 cup white wine
Shells oft we lobsters
1 sprig tarragon
1 sprig, thyme
1 sprig parsley
1/2 inch piece gingerroot, peeled
1 bay leaf
4 black peppercorns
Water as needed

For the vichyssoise:
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
1 leek, white part only, washed and chopped
1/2 potato, peeled and chopped
Reserved lobster stock
5 Wellfleet oysters, juices only, reserve meat
2 tablespoons heavy cream
Lemon juice to taste
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Reserved meat from 5 Wellfleet oysters
Sliced chives
Small red apple, diced and snaked
  in lemon juice
Wasabi

directions

For the lobster stock: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic and saute until the onion turns translucent. Add the white wine and reduce until almost dry. Add the lobster shells and cover with the water. Bring to a boil and add the tarragon, thyme, parsley, gingerroot, bay leaf, and peppercorns. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

For the vichyssoise: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the butter. Add the leek and saute until translucent. Add the potato and reserved lobster stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and plate in an ice bath. Add the juice from the oysters and heavy cream and mix to combine. Season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

To serve: Pour a serving of vichyssoise into a shooter. Place an oyster in the vichyssoise and sprinkle sliced chives over the top. Garnish with the apple and wasabi.

Piespoter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett

Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany 2001

LO anita

Smoked Monkfish Liver Canapes

(Makes 8)

ingredients

For the monkfish liver:
1 piece smoked monkfish liver, cleaned and deveined *
2 teaspoon sake
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the garnish:
Brioche rounds, toasted
Osetra caviar
Sliced scallions, green parts only
Lemon zest, soaked in lemon juice and salt

* Available through True World Foods at [phone]

directions

For the monkfish liver: Season the monkfish liver with salt and pepper and place on a wire rack-lined sheet pan filled with ice. Place in a cold smoker and smoke for 25 minutes. Remove the liver from the smoker; lay on a sheet of plastic wrap on a flat work surface. Pour the sake over the liver and roll into a tight cylinder. Tie both ends with string and wrap with aluminum foil. Place the liver in a steamer insert over a pot of boiling water; cover and steam for 15 minutes. Set aside in the refrigerator overnight.

To serve: Unwrap the liver; trim the edges amt slice into eight even circles. Arrange the brioche rounds on a dinner plate and top each with a slice of the monkfish liver. Spoon a portion of caviar over the monkfish liver and garnish with the scallions and lemon zest.

La Rocca

Pieropan

Soave, Italy 1999

LO anita

Escargots in Potato Cups with Black Truffles

(Makes 4)

ingredients

For the truffle sauce:

1/4 cup Madeira wine
1 small shallot, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons black truffle juice
1 1/2 cups demi-glace
3/4 ounce black truffle, chopped *
Black truffle oil to taste
Salt and peppper to taste

For the potato cups:
2 small German butterball potatoes,
  halved and blanched in chicken stock

For the truffle butter:
2 tablespoons butter, softened
1/4 ounce black truffle, chopped *

For the garnish:
4 escargots, rinsed, blanched in chicken
  stock, and drained
Pistachios, toasted and chopped
Slice chives

* Available through Urbani at [phone].

directions

For the truffle sauce: Place a small saucepan over medium-high heat and combine the Madeira and shallot. Bring to a boil and reduce until almost dry. Add the truffle juice and reduce by two-thirds. Add the demi-glace and reduce by three-quarters, skimming often. Strain through a fine mesh sieve. Add the black truffle and season with the truffle oil, salt, and pepper. Set aside, keeping warm.

For potato cups: Cut off the bottom of the potatoes and with a small scoop, hollow out the tops to form six cups. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the truffle butter: In a bowl, combine the butter and truffle together and mix well.

To serve: Preheat a salamander. Spoon a small portion of truffle sauce into a potato cup. Place an escargot in the cud and top with some of the softened truffle butter. Place under the salamander and heat until the butter is melted. Arrange the potato cups on a plate and sprinkle with toasted pistachios. Spoon a small amount of the truffle sauce around the potato cups and garnish with the chives.

Savigny-Vergelesses 1 er Cru 'La Bataillere

Albert Morot

Burgundy, France 1996

LO anita

Steak Tartare

(Makes 6)

ingredients

For the crepe cups:
1 egg, beaten
1 1/4 cups water
8 ounces flour
Salt and pepper to taste

For the tartare:
4 ounces beef tenderloin,
  trimmed and chopped
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1/4 teaspoon wasabi
1 scallion, chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons soybean oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the relish:
1 small Asian pear, peeled and chopped
2 shiso leaves, finely chopped
Lemon juice to taste
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the garnish:
6 quail egg yolks

Note: The crepe cup recipe makes
approximately two dozen cups.

For the crepe cups: Preheat the deep fryer to 350 degrees. In a bowl, mix the egg and water. Place the flour in a separate bowl and whisk in the egg mixture. Season with salt and pepper and set aside for 20 minutes. Heat six small cup molds in the deep fryer. Dip the molds into the crepe batter; return to the oil and fry until golden brown. Remove from the molds; drain on a paper towel-lined sheet pan and set aside.

For the tartare: In a bowl, add the beef, soy sauce, wasabi, scallion, soybean oil and season with salt and pepper. Mix to combine and set aside.

For the relish: In a bowl, add the Asian pear, shiso leaves, and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper and mix to combine.

To serve: Spoon a portion of relish into a crepe cup. Cover with a serving of steak tartare and garnish with a quail egg yolk.

Gewurztraminer

Cuvee Theo, Domaine Weinbach

Alsace, France 2000

LO anita

Crab and Uni Chawan Mushi

(Makes 4)

ingredients

For the dashi:
1 cup water
1/2 x 1/2 inch square konbu
1/2 teaspoon bonito Hakes

For the chawan mushi:
2 eggs
Reserved dashi
1/4 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon mirin
1/4 teaspoon yuzu juice *
4 egg shells, tops removed and cleaned
3 ounces pieces uni **
2 ounces crabmeat
1/2 teaspoon chopped Meyer lemon zest
1/2 scallion, sliced
Salt to taste

* Yuzu is a Japanese citrus fruit
which has a delicate citrus aroma.
Available in Asian markets.

** Available through Brown Trading
Company at [phone].

directions

For the dashi: In a small saucepan, combine the water and konbu and bring to a boil. Remove the konbu; add the bonito flakes and simmer for ten minutes. Remove from the heat; strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside to cool.

For the chawan mushi: In a bowl, beat the eggs. Add the dashi, soy sauce, mirin, and yuzu juice. Season with salt and pass the mixture through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl. Arrange the egg shells in a steamer insert. Evenly distribute the uni, crabmeat, and lemon zest among the egg shells and cover with the egg mixture. Garnish the top with sliced scallion. Place the steamer insert over a pot of boiling water; cover and steam for seven minutes. Serve while still hot.

La Grande Dame

Veuve Clicquot

Champagne, France 1995

LO anita

Palette of Popsicles

(Serves 6)

ingredients

For the passion fruit Popsicles:
1 cup passion fruit juice
1 1/2 tablespoons superfine sugar
1 teaspoon lemon juice

For the raspberry Popsicles:
2 pints raspberries
3 tablespoons superfine sugar
1 teaspoon lemon juice

For the tamarind Popsicles:
1 1/2 cups tamarind puree *
4 tablespoons superfine sugar
2 teaspoons lemon juice

For the coconut Popsicles:
1 cup coconut milk
3 tablespoons superfine sitar
1 tablespoon lemon juice

* Available in Asian markets.

Note: Chef Lo's Popsicles molds
were custom-made few this dish.

directions

For the passion fruit Popsicles: In a bowl, add the passion fruit juice, sugar, and lemon juice and mix to combine. Pour the mixture into six 1 1/2-ounce cylindrical molds. Cover with plastic wrap and insert a toothpick into the center. Place in the freezer overnight.

For the raspberry Popsicles: In a blender, add the raspberries and puree until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl. Add the sugar and lemon juice and mix to combine. Pour the mixture into six 1 1/2-ounce cylindrical molds. Cover with plastic wrap and insert a toothpick into the center. Place in the freezer overnight.

For the tamarind Popsicles: Strain the tamarind puree through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl. Add the sugar and lemon juice and mix to combine. Pour the mixture into six 1 1/2-ounce cylindrical molds. Cover with plastic wrap and insert a toothpick into the center. Place in the freezer overnight.

For the coconut Popsicles: In a bowl, add the coconut milk, sugar and lemon juice and mix to combine. Pour the mixture into six 1 1/2 ounce cylindrical molds. Cover with plastic wrap and insert a toothpick into the center. Place in the freezer overnight.

To serve: Unmold one of each flavor Popsicle.

Muscat de Rivesaltes

Chateau dev Jau

Languetoc, France 2001

LO anita

Fried Oyster with Sweet and Sour Cucumber

(Makes 4)

ingredients

For the remoulade:
1 egg yolk
1/2 teaspoon cornichon juice
1/2 teaspoon caper juice
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 cup olive oil
1 small shallot, peeled and finely chopped
1 cornichon, chopped
1/2 teaspoon chopped capers
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped assorted herbs
1/2 tablespoon American black caviar
Salt and pepper to taste

For the cucumber salad:
1/2 small cucumber, seeded and chopped
1/2 tablespoon rice vinegar
1/2 tablespoon granulated sugar
Sail to taste

For the oysters:
4 oysters shucked and drained
All-purpose flour as needed
Salt and pepper to taste

For the remoulade: In a bowl, combine the egg yolk cornichon juice, caper juice, and mustard. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil and whisk constantly until emulsified. Mix in the shallot, cornichon, capers, and herbs. Season with salt and pepper. Add the caviar to the remoulade and mix to combine.

For the cucumber salad: In a bowl, add the cucumber, vinegar, and sugar and mix to combine. Season with salt and set aside.

For the oysters: Preheat the deep fryer to 375 degrees. In a bowl, combine the flour and season with salt and pepper. Dredge the oysters in the flour and deep-fry until golden brown.

To serve: Distribute the cucumber salad evenly between four miso spoons. Lay an oyster on top of the cucumber salad and garnish with the remoulade.

Oloroso

Alvear 'Asuncion'

Montillia-Moriles, Spain

Waltuck david

Prosciutto Roulade with Foei Gras Moesse and Fig Chutney

(Makes 24 roulade slices)

ingredients

For the foie gras mousse:
2 ounces foie gras terrine
1 tablespoon butter, softened
1 tablespoon duck fat, softened
1 teaspoon port wine
Salt and pepper to taste

For the fig chutney:
1/4 pound dry, figs, stemmed
1/3 cup red wine
1/2 tablespoon port wine
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon honey

For the roulade:
2 ounces prosciutto, sliced thin
Reserved foie gras mousse
Reserved fig chutney

For the garnish:
24 brioche rounds toasted
Italian parsley sprigs

directions

For the foie gras mousse: In a food processor fitted with the metal blade attachment, add the foie gras, butter, and duck fat and puree until well combined. Add the port and season with salt and pepper.

For the fig chutney: In a saucepan, combine the figs, red wine, port, balsamic vinegar, and honey. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by three-quarters. Set aside to cool. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, add the fig mixture and chop coarsely. Transfer the mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a round tip.

For the roulade: On a half sheet pan covered with plastic wrap, lay out the prosciutto slices, slightly overlapping. Spread a thin layer of the foie gras mousse on the prosciutto slices. Pipe a row of fig chutney along one edge of the prosciutto slices. Along the same edge, use the plastic wrap and roll to enclose to form a cylinder. Twist the ends of the plastic wrap to tighten and set aside in the refrigerator for two hours. Cut into 1/4-inch thick slices.

To serve: Place a slice of roulade on top of each of the brioche rounds. Garnish with parsley sprigs.

Ambre Roussillon

Domaine Cazes Rivesaltes

Rivesaltes, France 1991

Waltuck david

Curried Onion Rings with Tamarind Dipping Sauce

(Makes 4)

ingredients

For the onion rings:
1 3/4 cups all purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
3 tablespoons curry powder
Pinch of salt
2 eggs
1 1/2 cups milk
1/2 teaspoon white wine vinegar
2 large Vidalia onions, peeled and
  sliced 1/4-inch thick

For the tamarind dipping sauce:
1 tablespoon oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and chopped
1/2-inch piece gingerroot, peeled
  and finely chopped
1 cup chicken stock
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 tablespoon ketchup
2 teaspoons sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon Asian fish sauce
1/2 teaspoon chili paste
1 tablespoon tamarind puree *
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon cold water

For the garnish:
Cilantro, chopped

* Available in Asian markets.

directions

For the onion rings: Preheat the deep fryer to 375 degrees. In a bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, curry powder, and salt. In a separate howl, mix the eggs, milk, vinegar, and whisk until combined. Whisk the egg mixture into the flour mixture until thoroughly blended. Add the onions to the mixture and marinate for 30 minutes. Deep-fry the rings until golden brown.

For the tamarind dipping sauce: Place a medium saucepan over medium heat and add the oil. Add the garlic and gingerroot and cook until translucent. Add the chicken stock, vinegar, ketchup, sugar, soy sauce, fish sauce, chili paste, and tamarind puree. Bring to a boil; reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. In a bowl, combine the cornstarch and water to form a slurry. Whisk the slurry into the sauce and simmer until thickened. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and set aside, keeping warm.

To serve: Place the onion rings on a plate and serve the tamarind dipping sauce on the side. Garnish with the cilantro.

Yves Cuilleron Condrieu 'Les Chaillets'

Vieilles Vignes, France 2000

WALTUCK david

Crispy Curried-Crab Cannoli

(Makes 8)

ingredients

For the crab salad:
1/2 seeded and diced cucumber
8 ounces lump crabmeat
1 tablespoon stemmed and chopped cilantro
1 1/2 teaspoons mayonnaise
1 1/2 teaspoons curry powder
Lime juice to taste
Asian fish sauce to taste

For the cannoli:
4 round wonton wrappers, halved
Egg wash as needed

For the garnish:
Cilantro sprigs
Decorative flowers

directions

For the crab salad: In a bowl, combine all of the ingredients and mix thoroughly.

For the cannoli: Preheat the deep fryer to 350 degrees. Spray a metal rod about 1-inch in diameter with non-stick spray. Form the wrapper around the rod; egg wash the corner edges and press to seal. Deep-fry until golden brown. Allow the cannoli to cool before carefully removing it from the rod. Repeat process to form seven additional cannolis.

To serve: Fill the cannoli with the crab salad and stand on end on a plate. Garnish with cilantro sprigs and decorative flowers.

Gewurztraminer

Albert Boxler 'Brand'

Alsace, France 1999

WALTUCK david

Potato Rolls with Chive Creme Fraiche

(Makes 8)

ingredients

For the potato filling:
2 tablespoons duck fat
1 small Spanish onion, peeled and chopped
2 Idaho potatoes, peeled, quartered, and boiled
Salt and pepper to taste

For the chive creme fraiche:
1/4 bunch chives
1 tablespoon water
1/2 cup creme fraiche
Salt and white pepper to taste

For the rolls:
2 sheets feuille de brik *
Egg wash as needed

* Available through Paris Gourmet at (800) PASTRY-1.

directions

For potato filling: Place a small saute pan over medium heat and add the duck fat. Add the onion and saute until translucent. Pass the potatoes through a food mill into a mixing howl. Add the onions and fat to the potatoes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside to cool.

For the chive creme fraiche: In a blender, combine the chives and water and puree until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and mix in the creme fraiche. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

For the rolls: Preheat the deep fryer to 375 degrees. Cut each feuille de brik into quarters to make eight pieces. Place a spoonful of potato filling closest to the uncut end of each piece. Brush the feuille de brik with egg wash; roll into cylinders and fold the edges to enclose the potato filling. Deep-fry the rolls until golden brown.

To serve: Place the potato rolls on a plate with the chive creme fraiche on the side.

Sauvignon Blanc

Thabani

South Africa 2002

WALTUCK david