Allora in Marlboro acquits itself splendidly.Byline: Bill Cory Many will remember the Oxford House on Marlboro's Route 20, opposite Lake William and near I-495. That restaurant came and went twice, followed by 109 Lakeside. The building was closed for a year or so; then came Allora Ristorante. The property has never looked so mellow and welcoming, both inside and out. The interior is now easier on the eyes, with the striped hardwood floor carpeted over and a restrained touch with the wall decorations. A favorable exception is three large, matched, heavily framed beveled glass mirrors on one wall. But the biggest changes have happened in the kitchen. They say that everything is made in-house and, having dined, we don't doubt it. Water with a welcome lemon slice was quickly followed by garlic foccacia. This bread is outstanding, fresh and warm, with terrific flavors and a salty top. Seasoned olive oil was only one of a trio, with roasted garlic cloves and a crushed white bean dip. We most enjoyed the bean dip and the roasted garlic, but the bread would have been a delight on its own. The Soup Goddess enjoyed her $7 glass of the house pinot grigio; when I got to try a taste, I'd indulged in too much of the roasted garlic to render a fair judgment. A cup of the day's Tuscan soup for The Goddess was a peppery pep·per·y adj. 1. Of, containing, or resembling pepper; sharp or pungent in flavor. 2. Vigorously sharp-tempered: a peppery sales clerk. 3. , delicious blend of sausage, potato and escarole escarole (ĕs'kərōl`): see chicory. for $5. There were six salad choices, from $3 to $9, as well as wedding soup, always on the menu at $8. A baker's dozen thirteen. thirteen; - called also a long dozen ltname>. See also: Baker Dozen appetizers, from garlic bread to antipasto, cost $6 to $17, with most under $10. I think I could have been happy with any one of the offerings: calamari, shrimp cocktail, bruschetta bruschetta Noun an Italian open sandwich of toasted bread topped with olive oil and tomatoes, olives, etc [Italian] , mussels, cross-cut fries with gorgonzola cream sauce or toasted ravioli, to name a few. I was most tempted by ricotta ri·cot·ta n. 1. A soft Italian cheese that resembles cottage cheese. 2. A similar soft cheese made in the United States. stuffed eggplant with a superb marinara ma·ri·na·ra adj. Being or served with a sauce of tomatoes, onions, garlic, and spices: spaghetti marinara. n. Marinara sauce. and mozzarella moz·za·rel·la n. A mild white Italian cheese that has a rubbery texture and is often eaten melted, as on pizza. [Italian, diminutive of mozza, a cut, mozzarella, from mozzare, for $8. The three rolls were perfection ... thinly cut eggplant with fine cheeses inside and melted on top. More than 20 entrees, plus five pasta dishes, took us awhile to consider. Seafood, in addition to two lobster dishes, included grilled tuna, salmon, scallops, swordfish and linguini with clam sauce. Beef, lamb, pork, veal and chicken added up to a very generous selection. It was the $19 grilled lamb and sausage for The Soup Goddess. The impressive platter was arrayed with garlic toast, sausage, grilled lamb chunks, cherry peppers and hummus hum·mus also hum·us or hom·mos n. A smooth thick mixture of mashed chickpeas, tahini, oil, lemon juice, and garlic, used especially as a dip for pita. . The lamb was excellent and grilled as ordered; the mild sausage seemed devoid of any fat, reminding us of sausages we enjoyed in Belgium. All of the rest of the entree was extraordinary as well, including pasta with sauce on the side. We could hardly start, let alone finish, that accompaniment. Usually I order veal dishes made with chicken instead. But, about once a year, when I think it may be special, I choose veal. In this case, veal Marsala with sliced mushrooms over linguini for $20. This is an easy entree to wreck (there's often too much wine, or it isn't fully cooked off). The perfection of this dish at Allora was balance. Three large, tender flattened veal cutlets, plenty of fresh mushrooms and a flawless sauce over linguini. Beautifully done. Allora offers an amazing list of after-dinner drinks, including coffees, as well as wines, cognacs, rare bourbons and single malt Scotch Single Malt Scotch is a type of single malt whisky, distilled by a single distillery in a pot still, using malted barley as the only grain ingredient in Scotland. As with any Scotch whisky, a Single Malt Scotch must be distilled in Scotland and matured in oak casks in Scotland for whisky. For $30 a pour, there's even Johnny Walker Blue, a whisky I can't recall ever seeing on a menu outside Boston or New York New York, state, United States New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of . And then there are the desserts, a half dozen or so at about $8 each. The Soup Goddess chose lemon chardonnay cake, a rich wedge with the grapes inside. An almond semi-fredo is the house specialty, a slightly softened gelato ge·la·to n. pl. ge·la·ti An Italian ice cream or ice. [Italian, from past participle of gelare, to freeze; see gelatin.] with bits of almond biscotti Biscotti (plural of Italian biscotto, roughly meaning "twice baked") are crisp Italian cookies often containing nuts or flavored with anise. Traditionally, biscotti are made by baking cookie dough in two long slabs, cutting these into slices, and reheating them to dry mixed in. Both were delightful, the perfect finish to a remarkable dinner. Well, almost the finish. I also enjoyed a cappuccino cap·puc·ci·no n. pl. cap·puc·ci·nos Espresso coffee mixed or topped with steamed milk or cream. [Italian, , which came with a biscotti. Service by Michael Henderson was attentive, friendly and well-paced. We never felt hurried and we never waited long for any course. Everything we ordered tasted fresh and freshly prepared. Our splendid dinner for two cost $68 plus beverages, tax and gratuity Money, also known as a tip, given to one who provides services and added to the cost of the service provided, generally as a reward for the service provided and as a supplement to the service provider's income. . This was far and away the best dinner we've ever had in this building, or this city. If we could find such a meal in Boston, it would likely cost more than $100. We recommend Allora without hesitation. Allora Ristorante 139 Lakeside Ave., Marlboro www.Allorar.com * * * * Hours: 4 to 9 p.m. Sundays, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, 4 to10 p.m. Saturdays Phone: (508) 485-4300 Parking: Private lot Handicapped access: Good Credit Cards: All major cards accepted Prices: Moderate to expensive; entrees $15 to $34; lobster dishes priced to market Pluses: A pleasant restaurant offering a broad selection of superbly prepared Italian and American foods, all prepared in-house from the freshest ingredients Minuses: None About the Stars Perfection: * * * * Very Good: * * * Good: * * Below Par: * Serious Flaws: No stars Etc. restaurant reviews are the opinions of reviewers based upon at least one visit to the restaurant. The reviewer is accompanied by at least one companion. Recommendations from readers about restaurants they would like to have reviewed are welcome. |
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