Ago doesn't break new ground, but pleases the crowd.

LIKE its famous investor, Robert De Niro, Ago has a reputation that precedes itself. Known as much for its happening scene as for Chef Agostino Sciandri's fare, this industry favorite has passed the test of time by combining simple Italian cuisine with a slick Hollywood sensibility.

Perched on an impossibly narrow lot on Melrose Avenue, Ago, like many L.A. spots, is nearly anonymous to passers-by. The valet lot is tiny but efficient--much like in the restaurant, workers have acclimated themselves to the small space and pack it full. Visiting at lunch is a respite from the more harried weekend nights, when volume levels in the dining room reach a roar. (When I called to ask a few questions during Sunday dinner, the hostess asked if I would call back during the day because she could barely hear over the din.)

Perhaps this is due as much to the decor as its slight space. The corrugated metal roof sloping over the dining room does this acoustic nightmare no favors, nor does the ceramic tile that covers the walls and partitions. Though it is by no means fancy, the bilevel dining room is light and airy during the day with its ample windows--and large patio to accommodate cigar smokers.

Though lauded by West Coast Italians, Ago has been slammed for being less than authentic. I wanted to see how it holds up to the standards of an East Coaster born to native Italian parents, so I invited a colleague who fits that description.

After we hear the specials, we are awash with options and spend a good amount of time strategizing over a basket of very good bread.

The salads are nice starters. We choose the beet salad and the house salad, and aren't disappointed, nor are we necessarily blown away. Though fresh and tasty, the presentations are simple and straight forward, which at these prices seems a little inappropriate. At $10 for a house salad, can't they jazz up the plate a bit?

After lingering over our salads--and more bread--we finally relinquish our first courses. We have selected pasta and fish specials, due in part to a little fast-talking by our smooth waiter who rattles off today's dishes so quickly we are left to reconstruct the offerings before sheepishly asking for clarification.

When our entrees arrive, expectations are high, and I can't say my friend is impressed. At first taste, I am wowed by the tortellini with shaved black truffles. The earthy mushroom taste is so decadent that it takes me a moment to realize that the sauce is perhaps a little gluey and that there isn't much else going on. And wasn't there supposed to be asparagus? My companion takes one bite and deters--if I like it, good, but this is certainly not the way her mother would make it. Halfway through her sea bass she looks down and wonders aloud if this is technically what she'd call sea bass. Though it is good, lightly seasoned fish accompanied by the requisite sauteed spinach, it is by her account, a little small and "kind of boring."

For dessert, we get the chocolate souffle and this time I am the one who is nonplussed--the chocolate souffle at La Cachette has possibly mined me for good. No one does a souffle like the French; it is foolish to even try.

Better selections

On my second visit, I bring a co-worker with a less critical eye. The same server recognizes us and cracks a joke. The staff here is attuned to the regulars, especially the big spenders. This should not, however, be con fused with pandering. When asked the name of the executive chef, the hostess puts down the phone, clearly disinterested, and has to extract an answer from a manager. It is a fair assumption that Sciandri is spending less time at the restaurant as of late.

Our selections seem to be better the second time around. We start with the burrata. The oozing cheese is a bit mild for his taste, but it is creamy and wonderful with the green beans. The warm seafood salad is adventurous but enjoyable. The shrimps, clams and calamari are set atop a bed of greens with a lemon vinaigrette. I usually avoid calamari, but am won over.

For our entrees, the mushroom risotto is good but not outstanding. The grilled swordfish, however, is the best of the entrees we have sampled. The plate is much like the sea bass--lightly seasoned, garnished with lemon and served with spinach, but the fish is so moist and sweet I am heartbroken when I can't finish it. The best part is the checca that accompanies it--the tomatoes are so ripe and flavorful, you would swear they just came from Nonna's garden.

Dessert is a strawberry tart, but what arrives looks more like a slice of pie, and worse for the wear. Despite the total lack of presentation, it gets a thumbs up with its creamy filling enveloping the berries. Though my family couldn't possibly be any less Italian, this, I am proud to confirm, is exactly the way my mother makes it.

Though Ago isn't breaking any culinary ground, it is a crowd pleaser. Avoid that crowd by visiting at lunch, when the service is quick and efficient, and the noise levels are bearable.

AGO

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Food: *****

Service: *****

Atmosphere: *****

Where: 8478 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 90069. Cross Street: La Cienega Boulevard

When: Monday through Friday, noon to 2 p.m.; Monday through Saturday, 6 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 6 to 10:30 p.m. What to Try: Beet salad, warm seafood salad, burrata with green beans, sea bass special, grilled swordfish, mushroom risotto, strawberry tart

Parking: Valet, $5.50 Price Range: Lunch appetizers, $15-$20; entrees, $18-$45

Reservations: [phone]

Reviewer Lindsey Styrwoll can be reached at [e-mail].