Aging and brown spots.SKIN WHITENERS are among the most popular cosmetic products across Asia, Africa and the Middle East. In 2007, sales of whitening whit·en·ing n. 1. An agent used to make something white or whiter. 2. The act or process of making white or whiter. Noun 1. products accounted for approximately 30% of skin care sales in Japan and 20% in Korea. The reason for high market shares in Asia is because in Southeast Asia Southeast Asia, region of Asia (1990 est. pop. 442,500,000), c.1,740,000 sq mi (4,506,600 sq km), bounded roughly by the Indian subcontinent on the west, China on the north, and the Pacific Ocean on the east. fair skin is associated with beauty, in the same way white teeth and slender figure are in the UK. (1) It's no surprise then, that the leading global brands of skin whiteners globally in 2007 were brands from key Japanese manufacturers such as Shiseido's Elixir elixir /elix·ir/ (e-lik´ser) a clear, sweetened, alcohol-containing, usually hydroalcoholic liquid containing flavoring substances and sometimes active medicinal ingredients. e·lix·ir n. Superior whitening, Kanebo's Blanchir and Kose's Whitest. Uneven skin tones and skin discoloration dis·col·or·a·tion n. 1. a. The act of discoloring. b. The condition of being discolored. 2. A discolored spot, smudge, or area; a stain. Noun 1. can age the look of facial skin just as dramatically as fine lines and wrinkles wrinkles See bells and whistles. . Brown spots are caused by years of cumulative exposure to the sun without protection. They are also called "liver spots liver spots Age spots, lentigos, senile lentigines, sun-induced skin changes Dermatology A nonspecific lay term for red-brown skin lesions associated with aging–eg, pigmented seborrheic keratosis and lentigo senilis. See Lentigines. " even though they have nothing to do with the liver. They are also known as "age spots," because they become visible as one ages. The medical term is solar lentigenes. Solutions for Brown Spots? Brown spots appear gradually, usually changing from light to dark brown. They are randomly distributed over the face, arms, hands, chest and back--all parts of the body that are usually exposed to sun. Although not threat to one's health, they are associated with aging and looking older. Most pigmentation pigmentation, name for the coloring matter found in certain plant and animal cells and for the color produced thereby. Pigmentation occurs in nearly all living organisms. conditions can affect any skin type and are primarily caused by abnormalities in pigment production in the melanocyte melanocyte /mel·a·no·cyte/ (mel´ah-no-sit) (me-lan´o-sit) any of the dendritic clear cells of the epidermis that synthesize tyrosinase and, within their melanosomes, the pigment melanin; the melanosomes are . This column will briefly discuss key actives, products and procedures used for treating brown spots. The actives listed in Table I have been shown to inhibit melanin melanin (mĕl`ənĭn), water-insoluble polymer of various compounds derived from the amino acid tyrosine. It is one of two pigments found in human skin and hair and adds brown to skin color; the other pigment is carotene, which contributes production to one degree or another by varying mechanisms. It is suggested that daily sunscreen sunscreen /sun·screen/ (-skren) a substance applied to the skin to protect it from the effects of the sun's rays. sun·screen n. be used to derive maximum skin lightning benefits from the actives. Table H on p. 52 lists commercial fade products, their active ingredients and approximate cost. Some of the top skin lighteners found in drugstores are Skin Effects Advanced Brightening Complex, Aveeno Active Naturals Positively Radiant Eye Brightening Cream, La Roche-Posay Mela-D Skin lightening lightening /light·en·ing/ (lit´en-ing) the sensation of decreased abdominal distention produced by the descent of the uterus into the pelvic cavity, two to three weeks before labor begins. Lotion. Among the leading department store brands are Dr. Brandt Laser Lightening Day Lotion, DDF DDF Distributed Data Facility DDF Digital Distribution Frame DDF Director's Discretionary Fund DDF Danske Dagblades Forening DDF District Development Fund (UN) DDF Data Decryption Field DDF Drug and Disease Free Intensive Holistic Lightener, Kinerase Brightening Anti-Aging System, Murad Lighten and Brighten bright·en tr. & intr.v. bright·ened, bright·en·ing, bright·ens To make or become bright or brighter. bright Eye Treatment, Patricia Wexler M. D. Dermatology dermatology (dûrmətŏl`əjē), branch of medicine concerned with diagnosis and treatment of diseases and disorders of the skin. Under-Eye Brightening Cream, La Praire The Radiance Collection, La Mer The Radiant Facial, ReVive Blanche Whiten, Lighten and Brighten. (3) Procedures Some dark spots could be covered up by mineral makeup, which also provides sun protection, anti-inflammatory benefits and aesthetic coverage without irritation. For those dark spots that can't be covered by foundation, microdermabrasions or chemical peels chemical peel Chemexfoliation Dermatology A technique in which phenol or trichloroacetic acid–TCA is 'painted' on elderly sun-exposed skin covered by extensive premalignant actinic keratosis. See Actinic keratosis. Cf Laser resurfacing, Mohs' surgery. can help. Microdermabrasion Microdermabrasion (often referred to as Microderm) is a cosmetic procedure popular in day spas, doctors' practices, and medical spas, in which the stratum corneum (dead outermost surface of the skin) is partially or completely removed by light abrasion. is essentially mechanical exfoliation exfoliation /ex·fo·li·a·tion/ (eks-fo?le-a´shun) 1. a falling off in scales or layers. 2. the removal of scales or flakes from the surface of the skin. 3. utilizing an abrading brush to remove superficial to deep layers of the skin with the help of fine motion of crystals. This procedure should be done under a dermatologist's supervision. Several treatments are usually necessary to improve skin tone, texture, dark spots, fine lines and scarring. Generally speaking, a glycolic acid glycolic acid /gly·col·ic acid/ (gli-kol´ik) an intermediate in the conversion of serine to glycine; it is accumulated and excreted in primary hyperoxaluria (type I). gly·col·ic acid n. peel is used to induce skin to shed its dead cells. Superficial peels give best results when repeated every few weeks, where as deep peels are typically done once, but may be repeated years later. It is very easy to see improvement because it removes few layers of skin. However, more serious spots would require a laser resurfacing laser resurfacing Cosmetic dermatology The use of CO2 lasers and, more recently, lower temperature erbium lasers, to bloodlessly eliminate wrinkles and sun damage by vaporizing the epidermis, stimulating the dermis to produce collagen and rejuvenate the procedure. The newer, non-ablative versions such as Fraxel is used to eliminate age spots and scars with a few days of recovery. Lasers, however do not perform as well on melasma discolorations. Why All Those Spots? Anything from sun to aging in general will often bring on dark spots, fine lines, wrinkles, warts and skin cancer. Skin discoloration or pigmentation problems, which are becoming more common, are usually a temporary condition, if treated right. Virtually all skin hyper-pigmentation can be corrected. It is however important to point out that under-eye dark circles are not considered a pigment problem. They essentially are caused by lack of sleep, fluid buildup build·up also build-up n. 1. The act or process of amassing or increasing: a military buildup; a buildup of tension during the strike. 2. , genetics and lifestyle among many other reasons. Even toned, radiant skin is achievable, when it has been well nourished nour·ish tr.v. nour·ished, nour·ish·ing, nour·ish·es 1. To provide with food or other substances necessary for life and growth; feed. 2. and protected. References: (1.) Euromonitor International. (1/2/09) (2.) Tables 1, 2. Insight into Skin Lightening Cosmeceuticals for Women of Color not of the white race; - commonly meaning, esp. in the United States, of negro blood, pure or mixed. See also: Color , S. Bansal MD, Zoe Diana Draelos MD, Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, Jan. 2007, Vol. 6. Issue1. (3.) Youth Equation, J. Dover, M.D. and Cara Birnbaum, Page 91. NAVIN M. GERIA VP-R&D SPADERMACEUTICALS NAVIN GERIA is vice president of research and development for SpaDermaceuticals, Martinsville, NJ. He has more than 30 years of experience in the personal care industry and was previously with Pfizer, Warner-Lambert, Schick, Bristol-Myers and, most recently, LeDerma Consumer Products Laboratories. He Has earned over 15 U.S. patients, has been published in cosmetic trade magazines and has been both a speaker and moderator at cosmetic industry events, E-MAIL e-mail: see electronic mail. in full electronic mail Messages and other data exchanged between individuals using computers in a network. : Tokuho02@optonlline.net
Table 1: Skin Lightening Actives (2)
Agent Mechanism of Action Advantages
Hydroquinone Inhibits tyrosinase Gold standard stable
cytotoxic in combination
coloration;
Arbutin Inhibits tyrosinose Little cytotoxicity
and melanosome
maturation
Kojic Acid Inhibits tyrosinase Stable with dipalmitate
antioxidant
Mulberry Inhibits tyrosinase Antioxidant
Licorice Inhibits tyrosinase; No cytotoxicity
melanin dispersion;
melanine degradation
Niacinamide Inhibits melanosome Very stable
transfer
Soybean Trypsin Inhibits melanosome Antioxidant; Good
Inhibitor transfer; (inhibits penetration
PAR-2); (inhibits
trypsin)
Ascorbic Acid Inhibits tyrosinase Antioxidant
Magnesium-L Inhibits tyrosinase Stable
Ascorbyl-2- antioxidant
Phosphate
Alpha Tocopherol Inhibits tyrosinase Antioxidant
AHA Increase turnover; GA: penetration enhancer
Inhibits tyrosinase LA: less irritation
Linoleic Acid Increase turnover New liposomal delivery
Retinoids Inhibits tyrosinase Retinyl palmitate:
Melanin dispersion less irritating; stable
Increase turnover
N-acetyl Inhibits tyrosinase Stable
Glucosamine
Agent Disadvantages
Hydroquinone Unstable; contact dermatitis
hyperpigmentation; nail
dispermanent leukoderma;
cytotoxic
Arbutin Mild irritant, hyperpigmentation;
weak activity; no controlled trials
Kojic Acid Mild irritant; unstable; no controlled
trials; allergen
Mulberry Mild irritant; no controlled trials
Licorice Mild irritant; no controlled trials
Niacinamide Mild irritant; weak activity
Soybean Trypsin Mild irritant; heat inactivated
Inhibitor
Ascorbic Acid Irritant; highly unstable; low
penetration; weak activity
Magnesium-L Mild irritant; low concentrations
Ascorbyl-2-
Phosphate
Alpha Tocopherol Mild irritant
AHA GA: irritant; PIH;
LA: less absorption; pH dependent
Linoleic Acid Mild irritant
Retinoids Irritant; hyperpigmentation;
weak activity
N-acetyl Mild irritant
Glucosamine
Table 2: Major Brands (2)
Store Brand Active Ingredient Cost
Ambi Skin Discoloration Hydroquinone; Alpha $5 (2oz)
Fade Cream Hydroxy Acid; Vitamin E
Even and Clear Soybean; Sodium Ascorbyl $12 (3oz)
Moisturizer with SPF 30 Phosphate; Tocopheryl
Acetate
Aveeno Skin Brightening Soybean; Retinol; $15 (1 oz)
Daily Moisturizer Vitamin C; Vitamin E
w/SPF 15
Chanel Precision Licorice Extract; $75 (1 oz)
Performance Vitamin C; Retinol;
Soybean Oil
Anti-Taches (Dark Spot Vitamin C; Hydroxy Acid $60 (1 oz)
Corrector Roll-On)
Precision Estompe Taches
Anti-Dark Spot Serum
Clarins Repairing Vitamin C derivative; $62 (1.7oz)
Whitening Night Cream Raspberry Extract
Dermablend Chromatone Hydroquinone 2% $18 (3.7oz)
Fade Creme
Elizabeth Arden Sheer Vitamin C, Soy $62 (1 oz)
White Restoring
Night Cream Millenium $60 (1.7oz)
Energist Revitalizing
Emulsion
Estee Lauder Re-Nutriv Mulberry Extract $175 (1oz)
Intensive Lifting Serum
Fashion Fair Vantex Skin Niacinamide $20 (2oz)
Bleaching Creme
LancomeBlanc Expert Extra Licorice $72 (1 oz)
Whitening Spot
Corrector Absolute Soy $98 (1.3oz)
Radiance Anti-Dark Spot
Concentrate
Clay Definity Acetyl Glucosamine; $30 (1oz)
Niacinamide
Shiseido Whitess Arbutin 5% $120 (1.4oz)
Intensive Skin Brightener
White Lucent Brightening Vitamin C $54 (1.3oz)
Moisturizing Gel
White Lucent Protective Vitamin C $51 (2.5oz)
Moisturizer (SPF 16)
The Body Shop Moisture Magnesium Ascorbyl $36 (1.5oz)
White Brightening Serum Phosphate; Licorice
Extract
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