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Adventures in taste: spectacular scenery comes as no surprise, but how about the wines made in Valais, Vaud and Geneva? Swiss News explores the wine scene in Suisse Romande.


Let's start with Switzerland's biggest wine producer, the canton of Valais, and its "vineyards that ascend to heaven" according to according to
prep.
1. As stated or indicated by; on the authority of: according to historians.

2. In keeping with: according to instructions.

3.
 promotional literature. Fair enough, the drama is definitely there, with terraces extending to 1,100 metres at Visperterminen, the highest vineyard vineyard, land on which cultivation of the grape—known as viticulture—takes place. As many as 40 varieties of grape, Vitis vinifera, are known.  in Europe.

A Valais wine tour starts just about where the Rhone spills into Lac Leman lem·an  
n. Archaic
1. A sweetheart; a lover.

2. A mistress.



[Middle English leofman, lemman : leof, dear (from Old English
 (Lake Geneva Geneva, canton and city, Switzerland
Geneva (jənē`və), Fr. Genève, canton (1990 pop. 373,019), 109 sq mi (282 sq km), SW Switzerland, surrounding the southwest tip of the Lake of Geneva.
) and follows the river some 100 km up through the valley. As one approaches the town of Sion, vineyards increasingly dominate the landscape. The canton now has 22,000 growers, although just 60 wineries produce the vast majority of its wines.

A lot to see

Wine tourists can rejoice in the new 'Wine Route' from Martigny to Loeche, which aside from a road for motorists, features sign-posted itineraries for walkers (66 km) and cyclists This is an incomplete list. Please add to this list if you are aware of an omission. This is a list of cyclists by decade. Cyclists by decade
Cyclists before the 1880s
  • James Moore
Cyclists of the 1880s
  • Frank Bowden
 (83 km).

Pierre Devanthery, director of the producers' association Interprofession de la Vigne et du Vin du Valais (IVV IVV Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho (Portugal)
IVV Independent Verification and Validation
IVV Internationale Vereinigung der Vermessungsingenieure
IVV Inertial Vertical Velocity
) calls the route, "a multi-sector project" not developed under the guise Guise (gēz, gwēz), influential ducal family of France. The First Duke of Guise


The family was founded as a cadet branch of the ruling house of Lorraine by Claude de Lorraine, 1st duc de Guise, 1496–1550, who received
 of wine tourism. And indeed it caters as much to lovers of picturesque villages, nature and exercise as oenophiles.

There are other, shorter trails as well. One of these, a signposted six kilometres (or 2.5 hours) on foot through magnificent wine country, leads off from the Musee de la Vigne et du Vin at Chateau de Villa in the town of Sierre and ends up at Zumofen House in Salquenen, a restored farmhouse that is a wing of the museum.

Wines not to miss

Also worth a visit is the Oenotheque in Sierre, a wine bar and shop selling over 500 wines at winery win·er·y  
n. pl. win·er·ies
An establishment at which wine is made.

Noun 1. winery - distillery where wine is made
wine maker
 prices. Verre a Pied in nearby Sion is organised along similar lines, featuring some 150 wines.

Focus on wines associated with the canton: Cornalln and Humagne Rouge (reds), and Petite Arvine, Amigne, Savagnin (also known as Heida or Paien) and Humagne Blanche (whites).

Then there is Dole, a red blend in Verb 1. blend in - blend or harmonize; "This flavor will blend with those in your dish"; "This sofa won't go with the chairs"
blend, go

fit, go - be the right size or shape; fit correctly or as desired; "This piece won't fit into the puzzle"
 which Pinot Noir noir  
adj.
1. Of or relating to the film noir genre.

2. Of or relating to a genre of crime literature featuring tough, cynical characters and bleak settings.

3. Suggestive of danger or violence.
 predominates, and also heady head·y  
adj. head·i·er, head·i·est
1.
a. Intoxicating or stupefying: heady liqueur.

b.
 Dole Blanche, actually a rose wine, both definitely worth a try.

White varieties also grown in Vaud and Geneva have different names in Valais--Pinot Gris is called Malvoisie mal·voi·sie  
n.
See malmsey.



[Middle English malvesie, from Old French, from Medieval Latin malvesia, malvasia; see malmsey.]
, and Chasselas is known as Fendant.

Other Valais specialties include sweet (dessert) whites, and spirits--potent brandies made from the fruit that grows in valley orchards.

A word to the wise, wineries keep very specific hours. You might call ahead and book an appointment if you are into some serious tasting and buying. Keep an eye out for the word caveau, a kind of local wine bar with a selection of area wines.

Trips can also be tailored to the canton's many wine events, like the annual Vinea fair, a showcase for Valaisan wines, which takes place this year on September 1-2 in Sierre.

Vaud

Think Vaud, and you think white wine--it comprises about 20 million litres of the 27-million litres of wine produced here.

The white grape Chasselas is still overwhelmingly associated with this canton, although more than 30 grape varieties This is a list of varieties of cultivated grapes, whether used for wine, or eating as a Table grape, fresh or dried (raisin, currant, sultana). Single species grapes
While some of the grapes in this section are hybrids, they are hybridized within a single species (for example,
 are grown here and, like the rest of Switzerland, wine production has seen a lot of diversification the past two decades.

Wine country in this canton, the second largest wine producer in Switzerland, is divided into four sections: Chablais, which ends where Valais wine country begins; Lavaux, stretching from Montreux to Lausanne; and--still along the lake--La Cote, which extends from Lausanne to Geneva.

The fourth area is in back country heading north towards Neuchatel, home to its own excellent wines but a much smaller producer than the top three.

Worth seeing

Don't miss the magnificently situated winemaking and wine label museums at Aigle. And, as in Valais, there are numerous different wine trails whether you're travelling by car, bicycle, or on foot.

By far the best-known trails are clustered in Lavaux, which also offers other means of touring: by 'vine train' and funicular.

For a walk as ambitious as it is spectacular, try La Grande Traversee--or 'Great Crossing'--that takes pedestrians from the Olympic Museum The Olympic Museum in Lausanne, Switzerland houses permanent and temporary exhibits relating to sport and the Olympic movement. It is surrounded by a park containing numerous works of art on a sporting theme.  in Ouchy (Lausanne) to the Chateau de Chillon near Montreux (32 km, or 8.5 hours walking time).

Overlooking Lake Geneva and the Alps, Lavaux scenery is so stunning that its postcard villages and terraced vineyards are currently under consideration for inclusion among UNESCO UNESCO: see United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization.
UNESCO
 in full United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization
 world heritage sites.

Vaud's Golden Coast

Unlike Valais and Geneva, Vaud is most prone to chateau-style--as opposed to farm-style--wine estates, and 32 of the canton's 42 chateaux are along La Cote, which has a very active association promoting its charms.

Created four years ago by Severine Beetschen, daughter of a local winemaker, the association has seen a surge of interest due to "increased requests from multinationals in the area, either for corporate entertaining or team-building >> and has developed a line of package deals for group tours and events.

Chateau Rochefort in Allaman (La Cote), a wine estate belonging to the City of Lausanne, also rents guest rooms.

Enologist Nicolas Rilliet, who is charge in charge of the City of Lausanne's vineyards, told Swiss News that another city holding, the Domaine du Burignon in St. Saphorin, in the heart of Lavaux wine country, recently started renting accommodation as well.

There are accommodations to suit a range of budgets throughout the area. Luxury options are very strong, ranging from spas to grand hotels, and nicely complemented by eateries. Some of the finest dining in Dining in is a formal military function for members of a company or other unit. The practice is thought to have begun in 16th Century England, in the monasteries and early universities.  the world is available in Vaud, which has a plethora plethora /pleth·o·ra/ (pleth´ah-rah)
1. an excess of blood.

2. by extension, a red florid complexion.pletho´ric


pleth·o·ra
n.
1.
 of Michelin-starred restaurants including Switzerland's only two in the 3-star (highest rating) category, Rochat in Crissier and Rabaey in Brent.

Geneva

Until about 20 years ago, Geneva was known for largely indifferent Chasselas whites and Gamay ga·may  
n.
Any of several related red grapes used for making red wines, especially Beaujolais.



[French, after Gamay, a village of east-central France.]
 reds. If wine production in the canton (Switzerland's third largest producer) was to survive, matters had to be taken in hand.

They were. In the 1980s, winegrowers and canton teamed up in a joint effort to diversify varieties (uprooting significant quantities of Chasselas and Gamay in the process) while upgrading technical expertise to produce quality wine. Among about 40 varieties, about half are red and half are white.

Wines include a cosmopolitan cos·mo·pol·i·tan
adj.
Growing or occurring in many parts of the world; widely distributed.

n.
A cosmopolitan organism.
 selection of concentrated reds, including oak-aged blends, from Swiss varieties Garanoir and Gamaret but also classics like Cabernet Sauvignon Cab·er·net Sauvignon  
n.
1. A variety of black grape used to make red wine, notably in Bordeaux and the Napa Valley.

2. A dry red wine made from this grape.



[French.
, Merlot and Pinot Noir, and a fine range of whites including Chardonnays.

Perhaps most surprising are the sparkling wines that have come in ahead of top French champagnes at expert blind tastings in international competition.

Geneva also boasts Switzerland's largest organic winery, Leyvraz & Stevens, in Peissy (Satigny).

Says Denis Denis, king of Portugal: see Diniz.  Beausoleil, director of the Geneva wine promotion office OPAGE: "When we started effecting changes, the independent wineries initiated an Open House Day called Caves ouvertes.

It took place on a Saturday in May, and was geared to Geneva City folk, to get them out to the countryside to see what was going on. This year, Caves ouvertes celebrated its 20th anniversary. Not only has the idea since been taken up by other cantons, but nearly all of Geneva's 100 wineries now participate--and thousands of people come every year, from all over Switzerland and neighbouring France. >>

All within 20 km

Geneva's wine country is divided into three regions: the Right Bank, the area between the Arve and Rhone rivers, and the Left Bank.

Each is distinctive, although the general feel of the landscape is of quite gentle slopes, some along the lake, and cradled by mountains with fine Mont Blanc Mont Blanc (môN bläN), Alpine massif, on the French-Italian border, SE of Geneva. One of its several peaks, also called Mont Blanc (15,771 ft/4,807 m), is the highest peak in France and the second highest in Europe.  views on a clear day.

Vineyards start at city boundaries, and although the perception in the wine villages is of being far removed from Geneva City, everything is within 20 km of the city centre.

There are a number of wine touring options in Geneva. The best known are a 9.0-km loop in the commune commune, in medieval history
commune (kôm`yn), in medieval history, collective institution that developed in continental Europe after the fall of the Roman Empire.
 of Satigny, from Bourdigny to Peissy, and walking trails through vineyards in the commune of Dardagny, where possibilities range from 2.5 to 7.2 km.

Unlike Valais and Vaud, caveaux are not a Geneva thing. Good bets for sampling wines here are the wineries or village cafes.

Tips

To help you get the most out of a wine, find out if it's recommended as an aperitif aperitif (·perˈ·  or a food wine--and what food, in the latter case. Also pay attention to recommended serving temperatures.

Average prices for a 75 cl bottle at a winery usually start around SFr 7.50, and run up to around 20 francs for rarer varietals and oak-aged wines, with some (including sparkling wines) over the 20 franc mark. Sweet dessert wines are also more expensive.

The best way to learn about Swiss wines The Swiss wine region has nearly 15 000 hectares of vineyards, and the wines are mainly produced in the west and in the south of Switzerland, in the cantons of Geneva, Neuchâtel, Ticino, Valais and Vaud.  is get out there, visit wineries, wine taste and talk to the winemakers. If you don't have the time or inclination for that expertise-building process, and want expert 'pre-filtering', here are good ways:

* Check out which wineries come in tops at Swiss national and European competitions (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Brussels, Paris, Verona) and visit those, www.swisswines.ch and www.guidedes-vins-suisses.ch.

* Ask a savvy wine merchant. Globus Delicatessa wine departments are well regarded.

In Suisse Romande, an all-round delightful--if expensive--way to learn is by dining at Michelin-starred restaurants. Their wine lists feature wonderful selections of top Swiss wines, and the sommeliers (often French) who select these wines will gladly tell you about them.

A word to the wise: run-of-the-mill eateries and bars often still serve equally run-of-the-mill Swiss wines, so make sure you go where the good stuff is. If you do--yes, the wine can be right up there with the scenery.

All you need for a wine tour

Valais: 50 million litres / yr on 5,200 hectares

Free booklet Wines of the Valais (IVV wine producers' association--www.vinsduvalais.ch. Check out wine villages by clicking on communes viticoles, riste des vi//ages)

* Wine road--Martigny to Loeche--www.cheminduvignoble.ch

* Musee de la Vigne et du Vin in Sierre--www.museevalaisanduvin.ch

* For campsites, mountain huts and bed & breakfasts--www.valaistourism.ch

* Vinea fair, September 1-2 in Sierre--www.vinea.ch

* Oenotheque in Sierre--027 456 24 29

* Verre a Pied in Sion--www.sionpassion.ch

Vaud: 27 million litres / yr on 3,851 hectares

Free guide Pleasures of Vaudois Wines (Vaud's wine promotion office--www. vins-vaudois, com)

* Winemaking and wine label museums at Aigle--www.chateauaigle.ch

* Wine trails in Vaud--www.avenches.ch and www.terroir-tourisme.ch

* Lavaux by 'vine train' and funicular, best trails--www.montreux-vevey.com and www.lavaux.ch

* The La Cote Wine Route Association, free credit-card-sized map lists all wineries, caveaux, and more--www.routeduvignoble.ch

* Chateau Rochefort and Domaine du Burignon rental accommodation--www.lausanne.ch, then click on Sustainable City A more sustainable city, Ecopolis (city) or Eco-city, has fewer inputs (of energy, water, food etc) and fewer waste products (heat, air pollution, water pollution etc) than a less sustainable city. In this context, sustainability is a relative concept. , Green Tourism

* For other accommodation--www.lake-geneva-region.ch

Geneva: 10 million litres / yr on 1,500 hectares

Free information about Geneva's wine scene and complete winery listings in the magazine Terrific Terroir Terroir (/tεʀwaʀ/ in French) was originally a French term in wine and coffee used to denote the special characteristics that geography bestowed upon them. , and also on the site of Geneva's wine promotion office--www.opage.ch

* Touring Geneva Wine Country: The Only Guide to the Geneva Countryside, by this author, can be purchased at local bookshops or from www.slatkine.com

* Wine routes and trails--www.terroir-tourisme.ch

* For camp sites, farm guest rooms, B & Bs, hotels and wine routes--www.geneve-tourisme.ch
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Title Annotation:TRAVEL
Author:Mangold-Vine, Gail
Publication:Swiss News
Geographic Code:4EXSI
Date:Jun 1, 2007
Words:1828
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