Adventure thrills in beautiful lakeland; The Great Escape FIONA SCOTT enjoys the experience of rock climbing and the luxury of four-star Lake District hotel Armathwaite Hall.

HOW the spider did it, I wasn't brave enough to find out.

It appeared to have dropped straight from the sky on to the tip of a twig on a bush stretching out over a cliff on the side of a leafy Lake District valley.

To see where it came from, you'd have to have raised your eyes from the valley floor 40 or 50 feet below - and there was no way I was doing that.

I was on my first attempt at climbing, proper climbing, outside, with an instructor.

My two sons were going first and we were all perched on a two-and-a-half foot ledge, perfectly wide, securely harnessed to a safety rope, waiting to abseil down, and it was scary.

I could pretend it was the sheer beauty of Borrowdale's mixed green canopy of trees below that took my breath away, but really it was the irrational fear that if I looked at the spider's thread too long, I'd tumble off the ledge.

It didn't help that son number two (aged 11) took the instructor's breath away by trying to unhook himself from the safety system, nor that both disappeared from sight as the abseil began over a lump of rock.

All this unaccustomed activity took place on one of the most relaxing weekends we've ever had.

We were staying at the four-star Armathwaite Hall Hotel at the top end of Bassenthwaite Lake north of Kes-wick in the Lake District.

The hall has 400 acres of grounds stretching right down to the water's edge, with fabulous views. It was described by the novelist Sir Hugh Walpole as "a house of perfect and irresistible charm". We were certainly captivated.

The Friday night we arrived it was raining heavily and we didn't see the peaks until Sunday breakfast. But within hours a sense of peace stole over us all, such was the calm and luxury and comfort around us.

Was it the splendid six-course dinners? Or lounges so high-ceilinged and vast that whole combinations of sofas seemed tiny?

Doors so wide you could ride a horse through them? The marvellous view, when it emerged? The beautiful pool and spa? Beds piled high with quilts, pillows, cushions and spreads? Of that height of luxury......a flat-screen television in the bathroom.

Yes, you could lie back under the bubbles and channel surf to your heart's content. Die-hard footie fans need never miss a minute of any golden game.

It was certainly a huge attraction for my sons - they loved this up-to-the-minute technology.

One of the biggest relaxations was that there was plenty to do around the grounds.

The boys loved the pool; we spent a windy half hour playing tennis on the hotel's court then walked over a field to Trotters World of Animals Wildlife Park just in time to catch a demonstration of a barn owl flying. We were honoured with the turkey vulture - the laziest bird there - bucking itself up enough to swoop in low over the audience's heads, alarmingly preferring a route directly over a baby's pram.

The grounds were a joy, with both our rooms having French doors leading out to tables and chairs where in better weather you could just chill out and enjoy the lawns and trees sweeping down to the lake.

If you felt like doing a John Prescott, you could have a game of croquet on the lawn, and the hotel will also organise fishing trips, quad biking and clay pigeon shooting for over 16s.

Or you could spend all day in the sauna and swimming pool, or enjoy one of the beauty treatments at the salon by the spa.

Activities are also arranged for children - including treasure trails round the grounds, tastings in the kitchen and even table manners!

The surroundings may be gracious, but the atmosphere wasn't imposing. Jeans and trainers are banned at dinner, but that's as far as it goes.

And after tasting the food, my boys had no more objections about having to wear their school shoes in the dining-room. In fact, they were even bringing their shirts along for a refresher ironing beforehand.

All in all, it passed the good holiday test. On the second day, I was asked: "Mum, how much does it cost to stay here? Is it more than Spain? Can we come back?"

Getting there

If you're really loaded, you can land a helicopter in the hotel grounds

By car, take M6 to junction 40 at Penrith, A66 to Crossthwaite roundabout at Keswick, A591 towards Carlisle, go eight miles then turn left at Castle Inn junction. Armathwaite Hall is 300 yards ahead. It can take more than four hours on a busy Friday from Coventry.

By rail to Carlisle or Penrith. Both have onward taxi journeys of 20 minutes.

Rooms start at pounds 78 per person per night bed and breakfast for a twin room, rising to pounds 135 pppn for deluxe lake view rooms and pounds 150 pppn for studio suites.

Short breaks, minimum two nights, including six course table d'hote dinner, from pounds 100 to pounds 160pppn, with pounds 175 pppn for studio suites.

Special offer for families. Seven nights bed and breakfast, with children sharing room, and dinner on three nights for the adults. pounds 1,440.

Hotel website www.armathwaite-hall.com

Climbing guide, including all equipment, was pounds 30 per person for half a day, through MobileAdventure.co.uk. They also do canoeing, kayaking and ghyll scrambling. Enquiries on 07960 8 75563

CAPTION(S):

TEA FOR TWO...Guests can enjoy an afternoon snack in the restaurant or a six-course gourmet meal in the evening.; SPECTACULAR GROUNDS ...An aerial view of the sprawling grounds of Armathwaite Hall.; TRANQUILITY...The still unspoilt beauty of Bassenthwaite Lake near Keswick.