Address your appetites at 85 Main.

Byline: Christine E. Thompson

A quick turn took us right into downtown Putnam toward the restaurant 85 Main, where there were more far more cars and people than we expected. It was

8:30 on a Friday night and it seemed that everybody from Putnam and the surrounding area was there. The restaurant's parking lot was packed.

Walking into the restaurant, we were impressed by the warm ambience - friendly staff bustling from table to bar to kitchen and a spacious, high-ceilinged, brightly lit dining room. Our late arrival meant a wait of about 20 minutes. The bar was standing room only ... and with no place to sit we felt as if we were in the way as the waiters moved from room to room. Just after we found a seat at the bar and ordered drinks, our table was ready.

Billing itself as northeastern Connecticut's only raw bar, 85 Main regularly offers clams and several varieties of oysters. We ordered two kinds: Cape Bretons from Prince Edward Island and Oak Points from Maine. The oysters ($2.25 each) were absolutely divine with a fresh, right-out-of-the-sea taste.

Calling the restaurant to confirm details, I was connected to the chef and owner, James Martin. He says he prides himself on using high-quality, fresh ingredients and locally produced foods whenever possible. Over 19 years in the restaurant business, he has developed this philosophy: "Recognize and respect the classics; only then can you adapt and twist the flavors into something new." He says he is constantly inspired by different styles of food; right now he is interested in Asian and South American cuisine.

In keeping with that philosophy, the menu at 85 Main is remarkably eclectic, with clear influences from French, Italian, Asian and regional American cuisines. Among the starters you'll see Maryland crab cakes, Asian beef skewers, potato leek and asparagus soup (a takeoff on vichyssoise), roast corn and clam chowder and an assortment of olives and cheese with soppressata and asiago cheese bread. Entrees include shrimp pappardelle, maple-glazed sea scallops, North Carolina pulled pork, smoked salmon risotto and Tuscan chicken. Among the specials on the night we dined there were a Kansas (yes, really from Kansas) veal chop and wild striped sea bass with citrus fennel sauce. It was hard to choose.

In addition to oysters, we ordered the fried calamari ($11), a mix of rings and tentacles dusted with cornmeal, served with pickled cherry peppers and "angry" marinara. The red sauce should have had some heat, but was actually quite mild.

The entrees we sampled were all good. The $23 shrimp pappardelle with arugula had a buttery white wine broth with the bright flavor of red ripe tomatoes and fresh herbs. The veal chop ($29) was cooked medium rare as ordered, but was a bit tough. The BBQ pulled pork ($20) was extremely tender and very lightly coated with sauce; the coleslaw served with it was nondescript. Portions were quite large.

The side dishes were what we loved: garlic-seared Swiss chard and chipotle mashed sweet potatoes. The potatoes were not as spicy as I expected, but the chipotle peppers added depth and offset the sweetness. The Swiss chard was excellent, though just a touch oversalted. Around 10 o'clock when the kitchen slowed down, Chef Martin came out to the dining room to talk to patrons. Stopping at our table, he explained that his grandmother taught him how to prepare the chard in her farmhouse kitchen when he was a child.

The small dessert selection included creme brulee, mango and raspberry sorbet, ginger-green tea gelato, cheesecake and a chocolate molten lava cake. We voted for the cake for $8. The rich chocolate liquid oozed out of the cake to blend with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream (the real thing, not out of a can). And there's definitely enough for two or three to have a little something sweet to finish off a delicious meal.

The bill for three was $124.02 (including a beer and a couple of soft drinks).

85 Main in Putnam brings in many local residents but also attracts diners from Boston, Providence, Worcester and Hartford. This spot is definitely worth the drive.

Christine E. Thompson, a former chef and caterer, is the associate dean of the School of Arts & Sciences at Johnson & Wales University in Providence.

85 Main

85 Main St., Putnam

www.85main.com

* * *

Hours: Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. every day, dinner 5 to 9 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, 5 to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays

Phone: [phone]

Parking: Very large lot in center of town

Credit Cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express

Prices: Moderate to high; entrees $16 to $32

Pluses: Raw bar; eclectic menu

Minuses: A couple of so-so dishes

About the Stars

Perfection: * * * *

Very Good: * * *

Good: * *

Below Par: *

Serious Flaws: No stars

Etc. restaurant reviews are the opinions of reviewers based upon at least one visit to the restaurant. The reviewer is accompanied by at least one companion. Recommendations from readers about restaurants they would like to have reviewed are welcome.