Across the spirits spectrum.

Distillers today are embracing age-old recipes as well as new-age ingredients, and our tasting tag-team sampled spirits from both schools for this issue. From a vodka with functional attributes to ultra-premium tequilas and whiskeys demonstrating heritage and a full range of flavors, the selections showcase the vibrancy of distilled spirits offerings today. Our experts share their thoughts on bottlings on-premise operators should consider, along with some thoughts on how to utilize the spirits for best advantage.

PLOTKIN'S PICKS

At long last, here's a tricked-out vodka perfectly in sync with America and our nanosecond lifestyle. Dutch-born p.i.n.k. Vodka is a classy spirit with a satiny, medium-weight body, lightly spiced bouquet and enough character not to get lost in a cocktail. The refined palate is pleasantly dry, the finish as satisfying as cocoa. A noteworthy feature of p.i.n.k is its natural infusion of flavorless caffeine and guarana. (p.i.n.k. Spirits)

The first release from Philadelphia Distilling, Bluecoat American Dry Gin is a hand-made, delectably fresh spirit guaranteed to seduce every sense in your body. This small batch, 94-proof spirit features an array of alluring and exhilarating juniper, citrus and herbal aromas. The gin has a soft, lightweight body and brilliant, long lasting citrus and juniper-laced flavors. The combined effect is mesmerizing. Expect Bluecoat Gin to have an Elvis-like impact. (Philadelphia Distilling)

Ultra-premium Jose Cuervo Platino is the distillery's most artisan tequila release to date, a genuinely charming spirit with tremendous depth of character. Crystal clear, Platino grabs your attention at once with its delectable medley of citrus, fruity and lightly peppered aromas. The tequila has a dazzling, curvaceous body and a layered palate of ripe plums, figs, toasted oak, black pepper and spice. The warm, lingering finish seals the deal. (Diageo)

Gran Patron Burdeos is a luxurious slice of heaven. Debuting at around $500 retail, the limited production, extra anejo is finished for a year in used Bordeaux barrels. The result is an inspired achievement with a striking, dark honey/amber hue and a magnificent bouquet of lightly spiced, floral, fruity aromas. It has a silky, surprisingly light body and a warm, captivating palate of nutty, fruity, wine-induced flavors that persist long into the soft, spicy and thoroughly elegant finish. (Patron Spirits Company)

Sobieski Vodka is the bestselling premium vodka in Poland. It's quadruple-distilled entirely from Dankowski rye, a variety deserving of its reputation for producing robust, character-rich spirits. Alone in a glass, Sobieski has ideal clarity, a hesitant, yet delightful herbaceous nose and a rounded, lightweight body. The vodka's initial entry raises little heat while delivering a long-lasting payload of dry, spicy flavors. Sobieski is a superb spirit inexplicably priced under $10 per 750 ml. (Imperial Brands)

The first in a series of limited releases, Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve is an exquisite blend of many of the oldest and rarest whiskeys in their vaults. The 92 proof Reserve has a viscous, featherweight body, glistening, golden/amber hue and a nose brimming with vanilla, toffee, malt and honeyed aromas. The initial attack is lip-tingling and prickly hot, which quickly yields center stage to the warm waves of dry, nutty, mocha flavors with sherry-like notes. The whiskey finishes long and slightly spicy. Priced at $250, Jameson Rarest is a once in a lifetime event. (Pernod Ricard)

The Dominican Republic is among the finest places on the planet to cultivate sugar cane, which partially explains the vivaciousness of Brugal Anejo Rum. It's a top-shelf contender with a deep amber hue and a layered bouquet redolent of figs, cherries, milk chocolate and fresh sugar cane. The light-bodied anejo has a full, rich palate overloaded with fruity, piney and spicy flavors. The finish is dry and eminently satisfying. It ranks among the best values in the category. (Shaw-Ross)

Robert Plotkin is a judge at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and has recently authored his 16th book, Secrets Revealed of America's Greatest Cocktails--The Hottest Spirits, Freshest Places and Coolest Drinks. He is the recipient of the 2007 Cheers Raising the Bar Award, and can be reached at www.BarMedia.com or at [e-mail].

ROBERTIELLO RECOMMENDS

Aged for six years, Russell's Reserve Rye reveals some of that Wild Turkey house style--bold, spicy and complex, with a generous nose of liniment, leather, almond, oak and spices. It opens spicy and rich, with a peppery fire and lots of mouth-rippling acids that linger for a long time but don't punish the palate. It is a well-crafted rye whiskey, one that shows what master distiller Jimmy Russell and son Eddie can do. I can't wait for one with some serious age on it. (Pernod Ricard)

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Karlsson's GOLD, a super-premium vodka from Sweden, is touted as the first vodka expressing a terroir--albeit one based on potato varieties--and is the brainchild of master blender Borje Karlsson, one of the original developers of the Absolut recipe. Distilled from seven varieties of Swedish potatoes, Karlsson's has a telltale potato vodka aromatic sweetness on the nose with slightly herbal notes as well. It's clean and creamy on the palate, smooth and rich, with a slight fennel and ground black pepper tang. It is a good sipping vodka made well. (MHW Ltd.)

Some cachacas are aggressively sweet, others predominantly fiery. Sagatiba walks the line between the two styles. Made using what the producer terms a "multi-distillation" method, the sugar cane spirit is almost grappa-like on the nose--restrained, subtle and slightly pungent. It has a moderately sweet flavor, with some tannic backbone and plenty of mouthwatering acids. Sagatiba has a clean and cleansing finish, and is a cocktail winner. (Sagatiba USA)

Modern Spirits Celery Peppercorn Artisan Vodka works the best of the multi-flavored vodkas I've tasted from this California producer. Aromas of celery and seasoned, toasted bread make me think of turkey stuffing. In the mouth, the flavored vodka tastes of fresh celery leaf and some black pepper spiciness, with just a touch of sweetness. It is clean, bright, well made and worth considering for artisanal Bloody Mary variants. (Modern Spirits LLC)

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The 1998 Evan Williams Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, the latest issue from this series of annual releases, still is one of the best whiskey bargains around. Aromas of brown bananas, clove, vanilla and glove leather pour from the tasting glass. In the mouth it's smooth and mellow, well-balance and assertive, with a lingering, clean and slightly lemony finish. It's mouth-watering as a sipping whiskey, and it invites cocktail experimentation. This is a stylish and charming whiskey, another success from the father and son distilling team of Parker and Craig Beam. (Heaven Hill Distilleries)

From the same tequila house in Guanajuato that makes Corralejo Tequila comes Los Arango Tequila Reposado, a brand bearing Pancho Villa's real name. This very pale reposado bursts with a mix of desert fragrances--cedar, lime leaf, minerals, mesquite--and a touch of vanilla. Soft, grassy and sweetly creamy on the palate, it has a good, spicy backbone and dashes of white pepper and lime with some ashy pungency. The six months in 1000-liter barrels has served this spirit well. (Mystique Brands)

The label on Rittenhouse Very Rare Single Barrel Straight Rye Whiskey calls rye "the most flavorful of American whiskey styles." If this old Rittenhouse is the new measuring stick, the rest of the American whiskey business has a strong act to follow. B and spicy, with notes of lanolin, neatsfoot oil, dulce de leche, cloves and cinnamon, tt tastes surprisingly youthful at first. It blossoms on the tongue with cinnamon, caramelized sugar, grass and vanilla notes. The finish is penetrating and lean, but doesn't show its potency at all. This one's leather and lace overall, country elegant and ready for the dance. (Heaven Hill Distilleries)

Want to know why sloe gin ever existed in the first place? Get your hands on Plymouth Sloe Gin, made from a 125-year-old recipe, developed at a time when the sloe berries of the nearby moors of southwest England provided the local variety to the ingredient mix. It smells like blueberries stewed with nutmeg and mace and tastes like an adult confection made with brown sugar, fruits cake spices, lip-tingling lemons and lemon peel. Bartenders have been waiting for this kind of sloe gin, produced in a more sophisticated manner than most of those in the market; kudos to distiller Sean Harrison and the Plymouth team, and bravo to Future Brands for bringing it to the U.S. (Future Brands)

Jack Robertiello has worked with or written about spirits, wine and beer for most of his adult life. He judges several spirits competitions, and has earned a Certificate of Excellence from the Beverage Alcohol Resources training program, the spirits and mixology equivalent of a Master of Wine or Master Sommelier program. Robertiello was the editor of Cheers for eight years.