Abalone, The Millionairess of the Mollusks, Is Served Fresh Daily from A. Sabella's 175-gallon Tank.

SAN FRANCISCO -- A rare jewel of the sea, abalone is available for customers year round at A. Sabella's Restaurant on Fisherman's Wharf. The restaurant's 175-gallon fresh tank holds approximately 100 of these mollusks, which have been cultured for five years by the Monterey Abalone Company, noted for its high-quality and high-technology breeding techniques. The abalone is carefully sealed with kelp and oxygen in a Styrofoam container and set on a Greyhound bus for delivery within seven hours of harvesting.

Despite its high price of $60 per pound, this ear-shaped creature (sometimes called "sea ear") is worth each delectable bite. Visitors can indulge in this rarity either Dore style (sauteed in egg batter) or off the mesquite grill -- straight from tank to table. Half orders are also available.

The restaurant takes great care in the preparation. According to Co-Owner and General Manager, Antone Sabella, "My grandfather and father used to say that if you see a customer using a knife on his or her abalone, replace it immediately without even questioning. Abalone is far too costly for someone to get less than a perfect piece."

Many people think wild abalone is more flavorful than farmed. According to Chef Todd Hansen, "The only real difference between the two is that farmed abalone lives in cleaner water and are more tender than wild."

He also emphasizes the abalone's rarity and survival based upon nature's whim. "A single abalone pair breeds one million offspring each time they mate. Approximately 700,000 are lost the first few days by such predators as otters, crabs, and poachers. Only about a dozen will become large enough to be legally caught, which leaves just a few to remain to mate again." He adds, "Our mortality rate at A. Sabella's has been zero."

Abalone grows at a snails pace. It takes several years to develop. A seven year-old abalone is only 2 1/2 inches long, a length when divers can attempt to search for these stubborn creatures. Prying them free is no easy task. There have been stories of divers losing their fingers by being trapped between the suction of the abalone and the surface of the rock. Antone Sabella says, "The best part of having an in-house tank is that we are not required to dive nor wait years to eat and serve these mollusks."

To whet your palate with a taste of fresh red abalone, you can make a reservation at 415-771-6775, at 2677 Taylor Street, San Francisco. Ask about the restaurant's free validated parking available to customers.