AT PTK, TLC COULD GO A LONG WAY.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

Up the street from the CPK is the PTK.

The new Punjab Tandoori Kitchen in Tarzana must have been inspired by the nearby California Pizza Kitchen, part of a successful national chain.

It uses the initials above its name on a paper menu and has a signature dish of tandoori chicken breast with potatoes, eggplant, sweet peppers, mushrooms, onions and a tomato sauce ($11.99) called the ``PTK special.''

In the former mini-mall space of Label's Table, a deli, PTK doesn't look like it's ready to clone itself around the country.

Indeed, it needs to get its service approach in order before even thinking of a second location.

And its very plain, no-frills decor and furnishings surely deserve a touch of creative interior design well before any serious expansion thoughts are entertained.

As for the food, it generally matches its Indian restaurant competition, but rarely exceeds it.

And there seems to be little attempt to be really serious in serving patrons, in keeping them happy.

One time, the waiter-host actually came over to our table holding a cell phone to his ear, evidently enjoying a conversation with a friend.

Of course, we felt like we were interrupting his phone involvement, obviously more important to him than his customers.

And he spent most of his time at a table where some of his acquaintances were sitting, while leaving tables of diners relatively unattended.

A welcome gesture, though, is the immediate serving of complimentary pappadums (lentil flour crisps) and a spicy chopped onion dipping mixture to all incoming diners.

Of the three available soups one evening, the du jour offering of mulligatawny was the least desirable, being a thin, watery liquid of indeterminate flavor. Yet, both a vegetable and chicken soup called yakhni and a chicken and corn soup lacking an Indian name ($3.50 each) impressed with good flavors and texture.

One of the specialized Punjabi offerings, nihari ($8.99), should be described as a soup. A few chunks of beef shank float in a peppery beef broth in this dish, probably a welcome winter sustenance in Northern India. Here, however, it is served as an entree item.

Maghz ($8.99), is another Punjabi creation, this a tasty brains curry for adventurous diners.

More familiar are the numerous chicken and lamb recipes such as chicken krahi ($8.99), cooked and served in a skillet with a deliciously spiced mixture of garlic, ginger, tomatoes and herbs, and lamb vindaloo ($9.99), the hot and spicy lamb and potato curry spiked with lemon juice.

Incidentally, raita, the soothing yogurt and cucumber mixture, and an equally refreshing mint chutney are served with most main-course orders.

However, mango chutney, mentioned in the menu as a complimentary condiment, didn't show up during any of the review visits.

Hot naan bread, nicely handled, fresh out of the tandoor oven, and rice also are delivered with main dishes.

Pakoras, samosas and a saag (spinach) dish were rated below par here during one meal, these from a kitchen that seems somewhat inconsistent.

When PTK begins using some TLC it could end up being A-OK.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: Punjab Tandoori Kitchen.

Where: 18743 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana.

When: Open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily except Sunday, for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. nightly, to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Sunday champagne brunch from noon to 3 p.m.

Recommended items: PTK special sizzler, lamb vindaloo, chicken krahi, Punjabi maghz (curried brains).

How much: Starters from $2 to $6, main courses from $8 to $15, desserts $3 and $4. Beer and wine. All major credit cards plus ATM.

Reservations: Helpful. Call [phone].

Our rating: Two and One Half Stars for food; One and One Half Stars for service.