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Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

The single-outlet, independent fast-food operator in the suburbs has to contend with heavy-duty competition from well-financed chains.

Consequently, it behooves a new rotisserie chicken eatery such as Bomba Cafe in West Hills to be that much better than its chain counterparts in as many ways as possible.

Bomba, a clean, spacious facility (with an almost hangarlike interior) in a main intersection shopping center shopping center, a concentration of retail, service, and entertainment enterprises designed to serve the surrounding region. The modern shopping center differs from its antecedents—bazaars and marketplaces—in that the shops are usually amalgamated into  at Platt Avenue and Victory Boulevard Victory Boulevard is a major thoroughfare on Staten Island, measuring approximately 8.0 miles (12.87 km) and stretching from the west shore community of Travis to the upper east shore communities of St. George and Tompkinsville. , tries to achieve its one-upmanship by promoting freshness, quality and a healthier product.

But, in fact, its real allure is that everything it makes tastes good.

It also sets itself apart by bringing food to each table on real china, not the usual cardboard or plastic.

And though customers order (and pay in advance) at the counter like most of these quasi [Latin, Almost as it were; as if; analogous to.] In the legal sense, the term denotes that one subject has certain characteristics in common with another subject but that intrinsic and material differences exist between them.  self-service places, you don't have to worry about carrying (and perhaps dropping) your food on the way back to your table.

Call it cash and serve instead of cash and carry.

As for Bomba's gratifying grat·i·fy  
tr.v. grat·i·fied, grat·i·fy·ing, grat·i·fies
1. To please or satisfy: His achievement gratified his father. See Synonyms at please.

 flavors, that can be attributed, in part, to from-scratch food preparation - and that includes producing its very own salad dressings and premises-baked cookies.

And it utilizes hormone-free chickens that come off the rotisserie at exactly the right time, with a touch of crispness on each herbed herbed  
Flavored with herbs: herbed vinaigrette. 
 exterior and plenty of moisture in the flesh.

Yes, rotisserie cooking can be tricky. There's always the tendency to leave the chicken on longer during slacker times or pull it off too soon when busy. When the timing isn't right, that's when the customer ends up with either blood-red meat near the bones of undercooked chickens, or dry, tasteless taste·less  
1. Lacking flavor; insipid.

2. Not having or showing good taste.

tasteless·ly adv.
, overcooked stuff.

Thankfully, none of that happened at Bomba.

The only problem that arose was during an initial visit when the entree dishes came up too soon. Of course, most patrons at Bomba don't order soups, salads, main courses and several side dishes side dish
A dish served as an accompaniment to the main course.

Noun 1. side dish - a dish that is served with, but is subordinate to, a main course
entremets, side order
 at one sitting like a restaurant reviewer.

Incidentally, if you don't like chicken, better stay away from this place.

It comes many ways here.

In addition to being served as a whole, half- or quarter-chicken off the rotisserie, it's available in salads - the best being the house barbecued chicken salad (half $5.95, whole $7.95); in wraps (not my preference); in soups - with spinach and mushrooms (bowl $1.95, pint $2.85, quart $5.95) my favorite My Favorite is an independent synthpop band from Long Island, New York. They released two CDs: Love at Absolute Zero and Happiest Days of Our Lives. My Favorite broke up on September 14, 2005, when singer Andrea Vaughn left the band. ; and in a chicken salad sandwich on a sourdough roll ($6.95) that's messy but good.

Bomba rounds out its chicken offerings with more than a dozen side accompaniments (half-pint $1.95, pint $3.95, quart $6.95).

Potatoes (mashed or roasted) are nicely executed. And there are expertly cooked, light-on-the-palate offerings of acorn squash and sweet corn.

Cucumber with fresh dill dill, Old World annual or biennial plant (Anethum graveolens) of the family Umbelliferae (parsley family), cultivated since at least since 400 B.C. The pungent, aromatic leaves and seeds are used for pickling and for flavoring sauces, salads, and soups.  and a cold bow-tie pesto pasta salad have been other well-received side dishes.

As for endings, they're minimal here, just house-baked cookies ($1 each). Thumbs up for the peanut butter and chocolate chip Chocolate chips are small chunks of chocolate. They are often sold in a round, flat-bottomed teardrop shape (similar to a Hershey's Kiss). They are available in numerous sizes, from large to miniature, but are usually around 1 cm in diameter.  ones.

In fact, thumbs up for Bomba as a whole - a brave, independent chicken fast-food cafe that knows how to exceed its competition.


The restaurant: Bomba Cafe.

Where: 6440 Platt Ave., West Hills.

Phone: (818) 615-0333.

When: Open for lunch, dinner and snacks from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

Recommended items: Rotisserie chicken, soups, chicken salad sandwich on sourdough roll, Caesar salad caesar salad
A tossed salad of greens, anchovies, croutons, and grated cheese with a dressing of olive oil, lemon juice, and a raw or coddled egg.
, barbecued chicken salad, potatoes (roasted or mashed), cold pesto pasta salad, cucumber salad, corn relish Corn Relish is a traditional Southern family recipe for cooked canned whole corn kernels, spiced with red and green bell peppers, peppercorns, and equal parts sugar and cider vinegar.

The mixture was placed in glass canning jars and steamed for about 45 minutes in a pressure cooker.
, acorn squash, peanut butter and chocolate chip cookies.

Children's menu: Chicken leg with small side dish and pita bread ($2.45) or optional small side dish with pita bread ($1).

How much: Everything under $8 except family special meals (feed two to five persons, $14 to $36). No alcohol. AE, MC, V.

Our rating: Three stars for food; Three stars for value.



Photo: Bomba Cafe co-owner Nelda Farrington, left, chef Francisco Alvarez and co-owner Rick Brainin offer some of the restaurant's specialties.

Gus Ruelas/Daily News
COPYRIGHT 1999 Daily News
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1999, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Title Annotation:L.A. LIFE
Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Article Type:Restaurant Review
Date:Apr 2, 1999

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