ASK MARTHA : ASPARAGUS USHERS IN SPRINGTIME.

Byline: Martha Stewart 

When asparagus season finally arrives after the long winter, I know it's truly spring. Now is the time to take advantage of this delicious vegetable; it is at its freshest and most plentiful.

Some people say the slenderest stalks are the most tender, but I love the fat, fresh stalks.

Either way, always look for the greenest stalks - unless, of course, you're buying white or purple asparagus. The stalks should be crisp, with tight, unopened tips. If they are brown, dried out or slimy, don't buy them.

If you're not going to use the asparagus right away, wrap the ends in damp paper towels and refrigerate in a resealable plastic bag. Cook within two days.

Before cooking, snap off the end of each stalk. It will break naturally just where it should. Trim all stalks to the same length so they cook evenly.

If the stalks are thick, you can use a vegetable peeler to remove the skin from the lower half, but with good fresh asparagus this isn't always necessary.

Asparagus has a reputation for being difficult to cook, and the classic preparation - asparagus with hollandaise sauce - can be a little intimidating. But there are many other simple ways to fix asparagus. In fact, once you know the basics, it's hard to go wrong.

Nothing could be easier than roasting asparagus. It really brings out the vegetable's wonderful nutty flavor. Steaming and boiling are just as good, and every bit as easy. Instructions for all three techniques are given below.

Cooked asparagus can be coated with a vinaigrette, tossed with pasta or served with a dipping sauce and eaten with your fingers. Just a bit of pepper, a squeeze of lemon juice or a splash of balsamic vinegar is enough to wake up the flavor of asparagus - without any fat.

Always dress the asparagus just before serving to avoid the discoloration that lemon juice or vinaigrette can cause.

Roasting 1. Heat oven to 500 degrees.

2. Rinse asparagus and trim as described above. Place in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

3. Roast for about 10 to 12 minutes, until tender and slightly brown at the tips.

(Prep time: 10-15 minutes. Cooking time: 10-15 minutes)

Boiling 1. Fill a large frying pan or skillet with water and bring to a boil over high heat.

2. Rinse and trim asparagus. Lay the asparagus in the boiling water, reduce heat and simmer until bright green and tender, about 4 to 7 minutes.

(Prep time: 10-15 minutes. Cooking time: 5-10 minutes.)

Steaming 1. Rinse and trim asparagus.

2. Place stalks upright in an asparagus steamer or in the bottom half of a double boiler. Add about 2 inches of water to the pan, so ends of stalks are submerged. Bring to a boil.

3. Cover with steamer's lid or top half of double boiler and steam for 5 to 7 minutes, or until tender.

(Prep time: 10-15 minutes. Cooking time 5-10 minutes.)

True asparagus enthusiasts should consider growing their own. It's not hard to do, but you must be patient: Asparagus needs two full years in the ground before it can be harvested.

In climates with cold winters, asparagus can be planted in early spring. In climates with mild winters, it can be planted in fall or winter.

Asparagus is planted as crowns - tangles of wild-looking roots. Healthy roots are firm and not dried out or brittle.

The crowns are available at garden centers and by mail order. (Two good sources: Jersey Asparagus Farms, 105 Porchtown Road, Pittsgrove, N.J. 08318, [phone]; Daisy Farms, 91098 60th St., Decatur, Mich. 49045, [phone].)

Before planting the crowns, do a soil test to check the pH level. You want it to be as close to neutral 7 as possible but not over. Follow test instructions to acidify/neutralize soil to the correct value.

When ready to plant, dig trenches 1 foot deep and 18 inches wide in a sunny spot. In the bottom of the trenches, sprinkle rock phosphate and balanced fertilizer (according to package instructions), then add 4 inches of good, well-aged compost or composted manure.

Place the crowns into the trenches about 18 inches apart, spreading their roots, then add 2 inches of soil mixed with compost. Water well.

When green sprouts appear, add more soil to cover. Continue this as the plants grow until the trenches are completely filled in. Weed and water the beds regularly and fertilize annually.

Two seasons later, the asparagus will finally be ready for harvest. When they are about 8 inches tall, snap them off flush with the ground.

As soon as you cook your first few spears, you'll know it was worth the wait.

MEMO: Martha Stewart's column appears on Saturdays.

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Photo: Spring brings an abundance of fresh asparagus, which can be served roasted, steamed or boiled. The stalks are also great for dipping.