ASK MARTHA\Homegrown herbs spice up life.

Byline: Martha Stewart 

Q: I'm just getting into growing herbs. I've learned that basil from the garden gets harvested and dried at summer's end but that thyme and some other herbs can grow indoors all winter.

Can you broaden my knowledge? What are some of the more common varieties that can be grown in the garden? Which should I keep in the house?

Also, what's the best way to dry herbs? I had a disaster when I tried to microwave my basil.

- Judy Hicken, Quispamsis,

New Brunswick, Canada

A: I try to keep fresh herbs growing in my home all winter long. I get spoiled during the summer months when my garden is filled with every imaginable culinary and medicinal herb.

Potted windowsill gardens are a perfect way to keep your favorite herbs available for cooking year-round. Some perennials that grow well in pots (with at least six hours of direct sunlight and very little watering) are thyme, sage, rosemary, bay and mint. Be sure to give them some water-soluble plant food every two weeks.

Annual varieties of herbs such as chervil, coriander (cilantro), parsley (curly and flat-leafed types), dill and basil can also be grown in pots. They will thrive in full sun with weekly dosages of plant food and frequent snippings once the plants leaf out.

I always plant my indoor herbs in sterilized soil. I prefer plastic pots, which can be inserted into more decorative clay pots. (Use perlite and sand to lighten the soil.)

In the summer all herbs should be moved to the garden so they can benefit from full sun and fresh air.

There are hundreds of herb varieties available to the home gardener and most can be grown in the average back yard. It's important to know what each plant likes in the way of nutrients, water and soil conditions. Ask at your local nursery for recommendations for growing in your geographic locale.

I prefer to cook with fresh herbs. There are, however, several ways to preserve herbs for out-of-season use.

Basil is best preserved in the freezer as a puree combined with good olive oil. Freeze this puree in ice-cube trays and package the hardened cubes in sealed baggies.

To dry herbs such as chervil, dill, parsley, thyme and rosemary, try this method I learned from Faith Swanson, co-author of the book "Herb Garden Design" (University Press of New England, 1984).

Using a 20-inch strip of nylon net, lay the herbs in a single layer on the net. Next, loosely roll the herbs around a cylinder (such as an empty paper-towel holder) inside the net. Place this "roll" in the refrigerator for four to five days.

When you unroll the net, the moisture will be gone from the leaves. You'll be left with freshly dried herbs ready to be placed into tightly capped glass jars. Label and date these and keep them on a door shelf in the refrigerator.

One thing to remember: Dried herbs, like spices, can get stale. Discard old herbs once they begin to lose their flavor.

Q: A recent column included a recipe for Royal Icing (to be used with gingerbread cookies). It called for raw egg whites.

I was really surprised to see this, as I avoid all recipes using raw eggs due to the possibility of salmonella poisoning. I have stopped making several of my former favorites for this reason.

I realize the chances of contamination are slim, but do we want to take a chance?

- Maureen Fellows, Roswell, Ga.

Martha Stewart: Because I use very fresh eggs laid by my own hens, I do not worry about salmonella poisoning from raw egg whites.

Most people, however, buy eggs from grocery stores and do not want to risk illness. The solution is to use dried egg whites, which are available in baking-supply stores. Royal Icing made from this dehydrated product is perfectly OK. We have used it in our test kitchens at Martha Stewart Living magazine with great success.

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PHOTO

Photo An indoor garden can supply fresh herbs all year long.