ASIAN NOODLES: LATEST PASTA CRAZE.

Byline: Jennifer Lowe Orange County Register

In their raw state, they are little works of art, bold and dramatic with strong, sharp lines.

But cooked and seasoned, they are silky soft and supple, tantalizing ribbons and strings to be dangled, chewed and slurped.

Already head over heels for European pasta, Americans are falling hard for Asian noodles.

``It's really an extension of our love for pasta. And Americans are finding new ways of using noodles and new types of noodles,'' says Nina Simonds, author of ``Asian Noodles'' (Hearst Books; $21).

Asian supermarkets are a terrific source of noodles, but today most grocery stores stock at least a few types of noodles in their Asian aisle.

From soba to somen to rice stick vermicelli, Asian noodles are also showing up on menus of many top restaurants. And boutique noodle shops are springing up from Irvine to New York.

For many, noodles are a comfort food. In Asia, where it's believed noodles may have originated as early as 1500 B.C., noodle shops and stalls are packed all times of day.

Asian noodle dishes bring a complexity of flavors for those used to heavy tomato-garlic sauces. Fresh herbs, crunchy vegetables and fragrant oils infuse noodles with new and different tastes.

The noodles vary in texture, from the chewy nuttiness of soba, a Japanese buckwheat noodle, to the jellylike consistency of transparent cellophane noodles.

``They can be sumptuous and robust ... or very refined,'' Simonds says. ``They're the original `mommy food,' with very appealing qualities.''

One of the best ways to build your noodle knowledge is by jumping in and cooking. If you're adventurous, head to the noodle aisle of an Asian market, as well as the refrigerated aisle where fresh noodles are sold.

Noodles typically are grouped by type. Some bags are labeled in English, some are not. Eyeballing a noodle often is the best way to figure out what you have.

Here is a list of the most common noodles.

Cellophane noodles:

Packages of the tightly bundled noodles may also be labeled ``vermicelli,'' ``bean threads,'' ``slippery noodles'' or ``glass noodles.'' They're made from the starch of mung beans, so if you're not certain of the noodle, check the list of ingredients. When dried, cellophane noodles are translucent. When softened in hot water, they become transparent and jellylike. They have little or no taste and absorb most of the flavors of whatever they're cooked with. They're popular in vegetarian dishes.

Chinese egg noodles:

Sold fresh or dried and in various thicknesses, the cooked noodles are commonly served in soups and stir-fried dishes. They're usually made with eggs, though sometimes you'll find dried varieties made without and labeled ``imitation noodles.'' The fatter noodles require a slightly longer cooking time. Taste also can vary among the noodles.

Rice noodles:

The variety of rice noodles can be overwhelming, Simonds says, and manufacturers do not have a standardized nomenclature. You'll see bags labeled ``vermicelli'' and ``sticks,'' and some simply with ``rice noodles.'' There are two kinds, extra-thin rice vermicelli and rice sticks.

Extra-thin rice vermicelli are delicate, cream-colored strands packaged in flat bundles. The thickness can vary depending on the manufacturer, with some quite thin and fragile. Asian cooks use them in soups, salads and stir-fries. They expand greatly when soaked in water and turn white when deep-fried, and often are used as nests for stir-fried foods. They're usually softened in hot water before cooking. They're known as mi fen in China, bun in Vietnam and sen mee in Thailand.

Rice sticks are flat, dried noodles of rice flour and water and are available in three main sizes. Thin noodles are used in soups and sometimes stir-fry dishes. Medium rice sticks are all-purpose noodles for soups, salads and stir-fries; in Vietnam, they are called pho. And the wider noodles are best stir-fried with meat, seafood or vegetables; the Thai version is jantaboon, the Chinese version, sha he fan.

Soba noodles:

Nutty in flavor, soba noodles are rapidly catching on because their taste is unexpected. Brown, buff or gray in color, they're made from buckwheat flour. They're very popular in Japan, served cold with a dipping sauce or hot in soups. They also work in salads and stir-fries. Some soba, called cha soba, may be flavored with green tea, lemon zest or black sesame seeds. A number of Western manufacturers have begun to make soba noodles, which are popular in health food stores, but Japanese brands are best, Simonds says.

Somen noodles:

Delicate and classy, somen noodles often can be identified by their elegant packaging. Thin white sticks, they're usually tied around the middle and sold in colorful bundles. They're made from wheat flour dough, water and usually a little oil. Typically they're served cold with dipping sauces, but can be stir-fried or served as a soup garnish.

Udon noodles:

Plump and often sold bound about the middle, Japanese udon noodles are best for robust soups, hot pots and casseroles. They're made from a wheat flour and water dough and can be round, square or flat.

Noodle know-how

Don't overcook noodles. Follow any cooking instructions, but also taste-test.

``You want to cook a noodle so it's just barely cooked - so it has a bite to it,'' says Susanna Foo, a Philadelphia restaurant owner-chef and author of ``Chinese Cuisine'' (Chapters; $35). ``I like to stay there and watch it (while cooking). I don't even walk around.''

Be sure to use a large pot of water; add noodles when the water boils furiously. Stir noodles immediately so they don't stick to the pot's bottom. Fresh noodles cook more quickly than dried.

Asian cooks typically rinse their noodles after draining them since the noodles have a lot of starch, and they like noodles to separate.

For room-temperature noodle dishes, rinse in warm water; for salads, rinse cooked noodles in cold water. Some recipes may give directions.

Cellophane or bean-thread noodles and rice vermicelli usually need not be boiled; they are soaked in hot or boiling water to soften.

Noodle noshing

Noodles symbolize longevity. Asians like their noodles long, since cutting them short could symbolize cutting life short. Long noodles are fun to slurp - and slurp loudly. But if you're serving children or find yourself a bit chopstick-challenged, Simonds suggests clipping cooked, rinsed noodles into 3-inch lengths with kitchen shears before serving.

Here are some recipes you can try using Asian noodles.

STIR-FRIED THIN RICE NOODLES WITH SHRIMP AND GREEN ONIONS

1/2 pound thin rice stick noodles (rice vermicelli)

Water

1/2 pound medium shrimp, peeled, deveined and cleaned with salt (see Note)

1 tablespoon vodka

3 tablespoons olive oil 

4 shallots, chopped

1 teaspoon peeled, finely chopped OR grated ginger

4 fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps thinly sliced

1/2 pound shredded napa OR green cabbage OR chopped broccoli rabe 

2 green onions, finely chopped

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 cup chicken broth 

1 teaspoon coarse OR kosher salt 

Freshly ground black pepper 

1/4 cup chopped fresh basil OR cilantro leaves OR any other fresh herb, such as tarragon OR chives 

Cover rice stick noodles with cold water and soak 15 to 20 minutes, until softened. Do not soak any longer, as they will become too soft and texture of dish will be ruined. Drain well. Cut noodles in half; set aside.

Dry shrimp with paper towels and cut into small pieces. Marinate in vodka while preparing rest of ingredients.

Heat oil over high heat in a heavy skillet. Add shallots and ginger and cook 2 minutes, or until shallots are lightly browned. Add shrimp and mushrooms and cook, stirring, until shrimp turn pink and mushrooms are soft.

Add cabbage, green onions, rice noodles, soy sauce, broth and salt. Cook until liquid is completely absorbed, about 5 minutes. Season with pepper to taste. Mix in fresh herbs and serve. Makes 2 servings.

NOTE: After peeling and deveining raw shrimp, place in a bowl and sprinkle generously with salt. Toss well and rub salt in with your fingertips so it coats shrimp. Place bowl under a faucet and immediately rinse shrimp well, running cold water over shrimp until water becomes clear and all salt has been rinsed away. Cookbook author Susanna Foo says this improves flavor of frozen shrimp (most shrimp sold has been previously frozen).

From ``Chinese Cuisine'' by Susanna Foo (Chapters).

RAINBOW PEANUT NOODLES

3/4 pound thin noodles, such as linguine, cooked until just tender, rinsed under cold water, drained and tossed with 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 

5 carrots, peeled and grated

2 hothouse (seedless) cucumbers, peeled, halved, shredded and squeezed dry

2 cups bean sprouts, rinsed and drained

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and cut into thin strings (about 1 cup)

2 cups sliced cooked chicken (cut into thin strips)

1 1/2 tablespoons green onion tops, minced

Chinese Peanut Dressing (recipe follows)

Arrange noodles in a large serving bowl.

Arrange vegetables in concentric circles over noodles, then pile chicken in center. Sprinkle green onion tops on top.

Serve at room temperature or chilled with Chinese Peanut Dressing. Makes 6 servings.

CHINESE PEANUT DRESSING

1 1/2-inch-thick slice fresh ginger, peeled and sliced in half

8 cloves garlic

1 teaspoon hot chili paste OR more to taste

1/2 cup smooth peanut butter OR more if necessary

1/4 cup soy sauce

3 1/2 tablespoons sugar

3 1/2 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar OR Worcestershire sauce

3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

5 tablespoons chicken broth OR water OR more if necessary

In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, or in a blender, finely chop ginger and garlic. Add all remaining ingredients and process until smooth.

Dressing should be consistency of heavy cream. If too thick, add more broth or water; if too thin, add more peanut butter. Refrigerated, in a covered container, dressing will keep 2 to 3 weeks.

From ``Asian Noodles'' by Nina Simonds (Hearst Books).

SOBA NOODLES TOSSED WITH ROASTED EGGPLANT

1 eggplant (1 pound)

2 tablespoons sesame seeds

Water

1/2 pound soba (Japanese buckwheat) noodles

1 teaspoon plus 1 tablespoon peanut oil 

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 1/2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons Chinese chili paste

3 cups grated carrots (about 5 carrots)

1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 cup diced cucumber

Cut eggplant in half lengthwise. Place halves cut-side down on a baking sheet. In preheated broiler, broil about 4 inches from heat until skin is blackened and flesh is very soft, 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, in a small skillet, stir sesame seeds over medium-low heat until toasted and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a small dish to cool.

In a large saucepan of boiling salted water, cook noodles until al dente, about 3 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water until cool. Press to remove excess water, transfer to a large bowl and toss with 1 teaspoon oil to keep noodles from sticking.

With a chef's knife, mash garlic and salt into a paste. Transfer to a small bowl and add vinegar, soy sauce, ginger, brown sugar, chili paste and remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Whisk until blended and set aside.

Peel skin from cooled eggplant and discard. Chop eggplant flesh to a coarse puree. Add to noodles, along with carrots, cilantro and reserved sesame seeds. Add reserved dressing and toss until well-combined.

Salad can be made ahead and stored, covered, in refrigerator up to 1 day. Bring to room temperature before serving. Garnish with diced cucumber and serve. Makes 8 cups, about 4 servings.

From ``Secrets of Low-Fat Cooking'' (Eating Well Books).

TOMATO NOODLE SOUP

1 teaspoon safflower OR corn oil

2 large ripe but firm tomatoes, cored, seeded and diced small

2 green onions, trimmed and thinly sliced

3 tablespoons Chinese rice wine OR sake

2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

5 cups chicken broth

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 pound frozen peas, thawed

1/2 pound somen OR other very fine noodles, such as angel hair, cooked until just tender, rinsed under warm water and drained

Heat a large heavy pot or a casserole over medium-high heat. Add oil and heat until oil is hot, about 30 seconds. Add tomatoes and green onions and stir-fry 10 to 15 seconds or until fragrant. Add rice wine and soy sauce and cook, stirring, 1 minute.

Add broth, salt and pepper, bring to a simmer and cook 5 minutes. Add peas and cook 30 seconds. Add noodles and stir 30 seconds, just until noodles are hot, then serve. Makes 6 servings.

From ``Asian Noodles'' by Nina Simonds (Hearst Books).

PAD THAI

NOODLE MIXTURE:

1/3 cup fish sauce (see Note)

1/4 cup ketchup

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons water

1/4 cup safflower OR corn oil

1 pound medium shrimp, peeled, scored down back, deveined and rinsed

3 large eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons minced garlic

6 ounces flat rice stick noodles (pho), softened in hot water and drained

2 cups bean sprouts, rinsed and drained

GARNISHES:

3 tablespoons thinly sliced tops of green onions

1/4 cup finely chopped dry roasted peanuts

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper

2 1/2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

2 limes, cut into 6 wedges EACH

For Noodle Mixture, mix together fish sauce, ketchup, sugar and water and set aside.

Heat a wok or heavy skillet over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon oil and heat until very hot, about 30 seconds. Add shrimp and stir-fry until they turn pink, about 1 1/2 minutes. Remove with a handled strainer or slotted spoon and drain in a colander. Wipe out wok.

Reheat wok over medium-high heat. Add remaining 3 tablespoons oil and heat until hot, about 30 seconds. Add eggs and cook, stirring to scramble, until just set. Add garlic and stir-fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add fish sauce mixture and rice noodles and toss 3 to 4 minutes, until noodles have absorbed sauce and are tender. Add shrimp and bean sprouts and toss to mix.

Transfer onto a serving platter. Garnish with green onion tops, peanuts, red pepper and cilantro. Arrange lime wedges around noodles and serve. Makes 6 servings.

NOTE: Bottled fish sauce can be found in Asian product aisle of most supermarkets.

From ``Asian Noodles'' by Nina Simonds (Hearst Books).

WILTED SPINACH AND CRAB SALAD

Oil for deep-frying

1 ounce cellophane noodles

1 tablespoon corn OR safflower oil 

3 tablespoons minced green onion greens

1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

1 1/2 tablespoons minced garlic

2 red bell peppers, cut in 1/4-inch dice

2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine OR saki

6 tablespoons soy sauce

1/2 tablespoons sugar

3 1/2 tablespoons Japanese rice vinegar

20 ounces spinach, trimmed, rinsed and drained

1 pound fresh crab meat

Heat about 1 inch of oil in a wok or heavy, deep skillet. Gently pull apart noodles to slightly separate strands. Drop 1 bundle of noodles into hot oil. When noodles puff, turn with a spatula and puff on other side, about 5 seconds per side. Drain on paper towels.

Heat wok or heavy skillet over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon corn oil and heat until hot, about 30 seconds. Add green onion greens, ginger and garlic. Toss 15 seconds, until fragrant. Add bell peppers and rice wine and toss until tender-crisp, about 1 minute.

Combine soy sauce, sugar and rice vinegar. Add to wok with spinach and crab meat and toss until spinach is lightly wilted, about 30 seconds.

Arrange a bed of fried noodles on a serving platter. Mound warm salad over noodles. Break remaining noodles and scatter over top. Makes 6 servings.

From ``Asian Noodles'' by Nina Simonds (Hearst Books).

SPICY KOREAN BEEF NOODLES

2 heads Boston lettuce, separated into leaves

2 ounces thin rice stick noodles, deep-fried briefly until golden

3 1/2 tablespoons minced green onions, white part only

1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 1/2 teaspoons plus 2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil

1/2 pound lean ground beef

1 1/2 tablespoons safflower OR corn oil

5 tablespoons Chinese sweet bean paste 

1/4 cup sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons hot chili paste

1 pound firm tofu, wrapped in paper towels and weighted 30 minutes, then cut into 1/4-inch cubes (see Note)

Trim any tough center ribs from lettuce leaves and press gently to flatten. Arrange in a basket or serving bowl. Arrange fried noodles on a serving platter, crumbling gently to break them up.

In a medium bowl, combine green onions, ginger, garlic, 1 1/2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil and ground beef. Mix well.

Heat a wok or heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add safflower oil and heat until hot, about 30 seconds. Add meat mixture and stir-fry, breaking up any lumps, until it loses its pink color. Drain in a colander and wipe out wok.

Stir together bean paste, sugar, remaining 2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil and chili paste. Reheat wok, add sauce mixture and cook and stir until it reduces and thickens, 3 to 4 minutes. Add tofu and beef and toss to coat. Spoon over fried noodles.

To eat, spoon about 1 1/2 tablespoons noodle mixture onto a lettuce leaf and roll up, tucking in sides. Makes 6 servings.

NOTE: To weight tofu, place in a pan, put a plate on top and put canned goods on top of plate. This removes moisture from tofu.

From ``Asian Noodles'' by Nina Simonds (Hearst Books).

CHILE NOODLES

1 pound soba (buckwheat) noodles

Water

1 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper

2 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1 large red onion, halved vertically and thinly sliced

3 medium zucchini, cut into thin, 1 1/2-inch-long strips

3 medium yellow squash, cut into 1 1/2-inch-long strips

1/2 cup soy sauce

3 1/2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine OR sake

2 1/2 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons Chinese black vinegar OR Worcestershire sauce

1 1/2 tablespoons safflower OR corn oil

2 1/2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil

1/4 cup minced fresh parsley

Cook noodles in boiling water until just tender; rinse under warm water and drain.

In a small bowl, combine red pepper, ginger and garlic.

In another bowl, place onion, and in a third bowl, zucchini and squash.

In another bowl, stir together soy sauce, rice wine, sugar and black vinegar.

Heat a wok or heavy skillet over high heat. Add safflower and sesame oils and heat about 30 seconds. Add red pepper-ginger-garlic mixture and stir-fry until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Add onion and stir-fry until slightly limp, about 1 minute. Add zucchini and squash and stir-fry until barely tender, about 1 1/2 minutes.

Add soy dressing and noodles and toss lightly to coat. Add parsley and toss lightly. Transfer to a serving platter. Makes 6 side dish servings.

From ``Asian Noodles'' by Nina Simonds (Hearst Books).

WILD MUSHROOM NOODLES

3/4 pound soba noodles OR spaghettini 

Water

12 cloves garlic

8 dried Chinese black mushrooms

1 1/2 pounds shiitake mushrooms

1/2 pound cremini (brown) mushrooms

1 tablespoon safflower OR corn oil

3 1/2 tablespoons Chinese rice wine OR sake

1 1/2 cups minced green onion greens

3 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

Cook noodles in boiling water until just tender; rinse under warm water and drain.

Mash garlic cloves with flat side of a knife; peel and cut into thin slices.

Soften Chinese mushrooms in hot water; drain, remove stems and slice caps thin. Rinse, drain and thinly slice shiitake and cremini mushrooms.

Heat a wok or heavy skillet over high heat. Add oil and heat 30 seconds. Add garlic and black mushrooms and stir-fry until fragrant, about 15 seconds.

Add fresh mushrooms and stir-fry 1 to 2 minutes, until slightly softened. Lower heat to medium-high and add rice wine. Partially cover and cook about 3 1/2 minutes, until mushrooms are tender. Uncover, add green onion greens and cook until liquid is reduced by half.

Add noodles and soy sauce and stir-fry briefly to mix. Add cilantro and toss to mix. Transfer to a platter. Makes 6 side dish servings.

From ``Asian Noodles'' by Nina Simonds (Hearst Books).

CAPTION(S):

2 Photos

Photo: (1--2--Color) Shredded cooked chicken and a peanut dressing top Rainbow Peanut Noodles, which can be made with thin Asian noodles or linguine.

Cindy Yamanaka/Orange County Register