AS AMERICAN AS POTATO SALAD VARIATIONS ABOUND WHEN IT COMES TO THIS SUMMER FAVORITE.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Potato salad, no matter how it is fashioned, is a summer holiday tradition for barbecues or picnics. It's a natural with grilled hot dogs, steaks, hamburgers, chicken and even fish.

Potato salads conjure up lots of different taste memories depending on what part of the country you hail from. There are probably as many variations and subtle nuances on the theme as there are cooks.

They may be dressed with plain mayo, Miracle Whip, sour cream, yogurt or even occasionally a hot bacon vinegar combination. Accents can range from prepared yellow mustard and dill pickles to sweet pickle relish, celery, green or white onions, chopped red pepper, cucumbers, olives, assorted seasonings and more. Many also include copious amounts of chopped hard-cooked eggs.

Today there are even numerous trendy, contemporary, new-fangled creations, running the gamut from oil and vinegar-based salads with lots of vegetables to curried salads with yogurt, mango chutney and dried fruits - and even Greek renditions with crumbled feta cheese, Kalmata olives, cucumbers, tomatoes and such. You can turn potato salads into main dishes in the blink of an eye with the addition of chopped up ham, chicken, salmon, shrimp and more.

So what kind of potatoes are best, what is the best way to cook the potatoes and when should you cut up the potatoes? It all depends on who's cooking and who you're talking to.

In a chapter on the Perfect Potato Salad in her cookbook, ``The Perfect Recipe,'' (Houghton Mifflin), author Pam Anderson includes the following recommendations.

``Use low-starch potatoes, boil them in their skins, don't salt the water (seasonings don't penetrate the potato skin), don't peel the potatoes unless you really want to and use a serrated knife to cut them. While the potatoes are still warm, drizzle them with a splash of vinegar. Then proceed with the recipe.''

But other cooks have different thoughts. Some prefer redskin or white new potatoes, while others use Yukon Gold, Idaho or russets.

``The type of potato to use in a potato salad has long been a point of contention with potato salad aficionados,'' writes Philip Stephen Schulz in his cookbook, ``As American as Apple Pie'' (Simon and Schuster). ``Mealy versus waxy. Mealy potatoes (such as Idaho or Maine), considered best for baking and mashing, are 'mealy' because their cells tend to separate when cooked. Waxy potatoes (like Early Rose and Green Mountain), on the other hand, are more cohesive and therefore do not absorb as much. I often use the mealy type for vinaigrette-based dressings because they do absorb, and waxy for mayonnaise concoctions because they do not. But as far as I'm concerned, it's entirely up to the cook.''

Tristan Millar, director of marketing for Friedas, Inc., a Los Alamitos-based distributor and marketer of specialty produce, prefers any kind of red or white baby potatoes for potato salads because you don't have to peel them and they have a firm, not crumbly texture. Yukon Golds, with their waxy texture and buttery flavor - are also good for potato salad as are fingerlings with their thin skin and nutty flavor. Idaho and purple potatoes are soft and crumbly and are better for mashed potatoes, she says.

After testing several varieties, Anderson preferred low-starch boiling potatoes such as Red Bliss and new potatoes.

``Higher-starch potatoes - russets, all-purpose and Yukon Golds - are not sturdy enough for salad making. They fell apart when cut and looked sloppy in salad form,'' she notes.

Boiling was Anderson's method of choice for cooking potatoes. She also noted that warm potatoes are just as absorbent as hot ones and hold together much better, so she advises cooling them a bit before cutting.

Shulz writes that potatoes, no matter which type you use, should be cooked unpeeled in boiling water just until tender.

``Avoid overcooking as the potatoes will disintegrate into pieces when tossed with a dressing.'' He tests the potatoes by inserting a sharp knife into the center.

So much for all the advice. I prefer to do things a tad differently.

When growing up, the potato salad in our household always had a sour cream base as my father disliked mayonnaise and thus, it was never a refrigerator staple. To this day, I don't keep mayo handy. Instead I dress potato or tuna salads with plain nonfat yogurt or sour cream (light or regular) doctored up with prepared mustard, seasonings (sometimes dry ranch dressing mix), red wine vinegar, chopped dill pickles, dill weed (fresh if I have it, otherwise lots of dried) and such.

Over the last few years, several of my potato salads have taken a fresher twist with an olive oil and vinegar-style dressing and lots of chopped fresh vegetables like tomatoes, cucumbers, sometimes haricots verts or red or green bell pepper chunks, ripe olives, plenty of chopped fresh basil and more. Lots of times I stir in crumbled feta cheese and serve atop mixed baby greens for a meatless entree when the weather is warm. It's a winner.

For numerous years, I steered clear of making potato salad entirely - and whenever friends asked me to bring it to a potluck summer party, I always begged them to let me bring something else. I hated the mess (and cleanup) that resulted when I cooked the potatoes on top of the stove. Even when I tried to monitor the cooking closely, starchy water seemed to spray everywhere.

But one day years ago, it dawned on me that microwaving the potatoes could save a lot of time, effort and cleanup. My shortcut experimentation paid off - and ever since making potato salad has been a breeze.

Simply rinse the whole unpeeled, potatoes well with cold water (scrub with a vegetable brush to remove excess dirt), pierce them in a few places with a sharp knife and arrange in a circle on a microwave-proof dinner-size plate, stacking with a second layer if necessary. Zap on high power, uncovered, without any water added for 15 to 20 minutes (my microwave has a turntable), depending on the number of potatoes, the density, etc. Check the potatoes after the first 10 to 12 minutes and then again after 15 minutes or so, piercing with a knife or fork. Remove any that are tender and done. There always seem to be a few stragglers that need a few more minutes of cooking time, probably because of the uneven cooking of microwave ovens.

Remove the plate to a sink and run cold water over the potatoes a minute or two. Drain and leave at room temperature until cool. Then stash, whole, in a plastic bag and chill until cold prior to cutting up for a salad. If you use thin-skinned red or white potatoes or Yukon Golds (all of which I prefer), there's no need to peel them.

I recently experimented with chilling the potatoes versus cutting them into cubes while warm. I had much better success cutting up the potatoes when cold - they don't get mushy and fall apart as was always my experience when the potatoes were warm.

So now I cook the potatoes (in the microwave) in advance and refrigerate overnight before making the salad. If you're in a bind, you can also chill the potatoes quickly in a large bowl of ice water, but be sure to dry them off before proceeding.

Cooking potatoes is one of the best things the microwave oven does, says former Encino resident Thelma Pressman, microwave cookbook author and microwave cooking consultant for Bon Appetit magazine who has been microwaving potatoes for almost 40 years since she got her first microwave oven.

But she prefers to microwave a few potatoes after wrapping each one individually in a white paper towel which absorbs moisture and allows for more even cooking (she does not cook the potatoes on a plate). If you have several potatoes, she recommends using a paper (not Styrofoam) plate and covering them (rinsed, but not dried) with dry white paper towels.

If you want to jazz up potato salad offerings on the 4th and beyond, consider some of the following takes on the theme, geared to a variety of tastes.

NATALIE'S FRESH VEGETABLE POTATO SALAD VINAIGRETTE

2 pounds red OR white potatoes, cooked until tender, chilled and cut into 1-inch pieces (leave skins on)

1 1/2 cups chopped hot house cucumbers

2 cups diced tomatoes (squeeze out as much juice as possible before cutting up)

3 tablespoons drained capers 

2/3 cup diced pitted ripe olive OR kalamata olives

1/3 cup chopped fresh basil

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 to 1/3 cup red wine vinegar

3/4 teaspoon garlic pepper

1/4 teaspoon seasoned salt 

In a medium bowl, mix together potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, capers and olives. Add remaining ingredients and mix gently until well mixed. Serve immediately or chill until serving time. Makes 6 or more servings.

CURRIED POTATO SALAD

2 pounds red OR white potatoes, cooked until tender, chilled and cut into 1-inch pieces

1/2 cup chopped green onions

1/4 cup golden raisins OR diced dried apricots

1/2 cup chopped red bell pepper

1 1/2 cup plain nonfat yogurt

1 tablespoon curry powder 

2 to 3 tablespoons mango chutney

2 tablespoons white OR red wine vinegar

1/4 teaspoon seasoned salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 cups diced cooked chicken (optional)

1/4 cup chopped OR sliced almonds (optional)

In a large bowl, combine potatoes, green onions, raisins and red pepper.

In a small bowl, mix together yogurt, curry powder, chutney, vinegar, salt and pepper until well blended. Add to potato mixture, tossing gently until evenly mixed. Stir in chicken, if desired. Serve immediately or refrigerate until serving time. Sprinkle with almonds just before serving. Makes 6 or more servings.

HERBED POTATO SALAD WITH LEMON-OLIVE OIL DRESSING

2 pounds red-skinned potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup finely chopped red onion

1/2 cup finely chopped red bell pepper

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano 

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

2 teaspoons salt

3/4 teaspoon ground black pepper 

Steam potatoes just until tender, about 10 minutes. Transfer potatoes to a large bowl.

Add oil to potatoes, toss to coat. Mix in red onion, bell pepper, lemon juice, oregano, mint, salt and pepper. (Can be made 4 hours ahead. Cover; chill. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour before serving). Makes 6 servings.

From Bon Appetit June 2000 issue

ALL-AMERICAN POTATO SALAD

4 pounds large red potatoes

Water

1/2 cup cider vinegar 

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

3/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1 1/2 cups mayonnaise

1/2 cup milk

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

3 large celery ribs, chopped

1/2 cup finely chopped red onion

8 slices bacon, cooked until crisp and crumbled (optional)

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

4 hard-cooked eggs, quartered (optional)

Parsley sprigs for garnish

In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, cover potatoes with water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium, and cook until potatoes are tender when pierced with a sharp knife, 25 to 30 minutes. Drain into a colander.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk vinegar, oil, salt and pepper until blended. Peel potatoes when cool enough to handle but still warm, and cut into 3/4-inch cubes. Add warm potatoes to dressing and stir gently to coat. Let cool to room temperature.

In a small bowl, whisk mayonnaise, milk and mustard until blended. Pour over potatoes. Add celery, red onion, bacon and chopped parsley. Stir gently to mix. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours or overnight.

Before serving, garnish with egg quarters and parsley sprigs. Makes 12 to 16 servings.

From ``365 All-American Favorites,'' by Sarah Reynolds, Harper Collins

FAVORITE SOUR CREAM POTATO SALAD

This is my rendition of the potato salad I grew up with, made with sour cream.

1 1/2 cups dairy sour cream

3 to 4 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon dill pickle juice

1 tablespoon prepared mustard

1/2 teaspoon seasoned salt

1/2 teaspoon garlic pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons dried dill weed OR 3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

4 medium dill pickles chopped

2 pounds medium red potatoes, cooked until tender, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes

Mix together sour cream, red wine vinegar, pickle juice, mustard, salt, garlic pepper and dill weed. Combine in a large bowl with pickles and cold potatoes, tossing gently until well mixed. Chill several hours or overnight. Makes 6 or more servings.

GARDEN YOGURT POTATO SALAD

Often I like to make potato salad this way, dressed with yogurt.

1 carton (8 ounces) plain nonfat yogurt

2 tablespoons EACH prepared mustard and red wine vinegar

1/4 cup sweet pickle relish OR dill pickle relish

1/2 teaspoon (OR more to taste) seasoned salt

Garlic pepper to taste

1 green bell pepper, chopped

2 stalks celery, chopped

1/3 to 1/2 cup chopped green onions

1 large OR 2 medium tomatoes, chopped

6 medium potatoes, cooked until tender, peeled and diced

In a large bowl mix together all ingredients except potatoes. Add potatoes and toss to blend well.

Cover and chill several hours. Garnish with hard-cooked egg slices and paprika if desired. Makes 6 servings.

AMERICAN-STYLE POTATO SALAD WITH EGGS AND SWEET PICKLES

2 pounds red OR new potatoes, boiled, peeled, if desired and cut into 3/4-inch cubes

2 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon kosher salt OR 1/2 teaspoon table salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

3 hard-cooked eggs, cut into small dice

2 to 3 green onions, sliced thin (about 1/2 cup)

1 small celery stalk, cut into small dice (about 1/2 cup)

1/4 cup small diced sweet pickle (not relish)

1/2 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard

1/4 cup minced fresh parsley

Layer warm potato cubes in a medium bowl. Sprinkle with vinegar, seasoning with salt and pepper as you go.

Mix in remaining ingredients. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Adjust seasonings and serve chilled. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

From, `` The Perfect Recipe,'' by Pam Anderson, Houghton Mifflin.

GERMAN-STYLE POTATO SALAD WITH BACON AND BALSAMIC VINEGAR 

For German-style salads, the smaller new potatoes are more attractive because the slices tend not to break up as they do with bigger potatoes. Balsamic vinegar gives this salad an appealing sweet/sour flavor.

2 pounds red OR new potatoes, boiled, peeled, if desired and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices

1/4 cup balsamic OR cider vinegar

1 teaspoon kosher salt OR 1/2 teaspoon table salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

4 to 5 thick slices (about 4 ounces) slab bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4- inch strips

1 medium onion, cut into medium dice

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/2 cup beef broth 

1/4 cup minced fresh parsley

Layer warm potato slices in a medium bowl. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons vinegar, seasoning with salt and pepper as you go.

Fry bacon in a medium skillet over medium heat until bacon is brown and crisp and fat is rendered, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to potatoes. Add onion to bacon drippings. Saute until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add up to 2 tablespoons vegetable oil to yield 2 tablespoons unabsorbed fat. (If bacon is fairly lean, onion will absorb most of drippings.)

Add beef broth and bring to a boil; add remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar. Pour broth-onion mixture over potatoes. Add parsley; toss gently to coat. Adjust seasonings; serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 6 servings.

From, ``The Perfect Recipe,'' by Pam Anderson, Houghton Mifflin.

LONE STAR CREAMY POTATO SALAD

3 russet potatoes (1 1/2 pounds total), peeled

Water

3 hard-cooked eggs, coarsely chopped

1/3 cup diced (1/4-inch) red bell pepper

3/4 cup dairy sour cream

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup sweet pickle relish

Coarse salt and coarsely ground black pepper to taste

Cut potatoes into large chunks. Place in a pot of salted water to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain.

When potatoes are cool enough to handle, cut into small pieces, about 1x1 1/2-inches and place in a bowl. Add eggs and bell pepper and toss together together gently with a rubber spatula.

In a separate bowl, combine sour cream, mayonnaise and pickle relish. Toss dressing gently with potatoes; season generously with coarse salt and pepper and serve. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

From, ``Sheila Lukins USA Cook Book,'' Workman.

FRESH SALMON POTATO SALAD

Water

1 cup dry white wine

3 sprigs fresh flat -leaf parsley

1 bay leaf

4 black peppercorns

1/2 pound salmon fillet 

2 russet potatoes (about 1 pound total), peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice

Salt

1/2 cup diced (1/4-inch) celery

3 hard-cooked eggs, coarsely chopped

2 to 3 green onions (3 inches green left on), thinly sliced on diagonal

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill OR more to taste

Coarsely ground black pepper to taste

3/4 cup Lemon Dill Yogurt Dressing (recipe follows)

1/2 pound mesclun (mixed baby salad greens), rinsed and dried

Fresh dill sprigs for garnish

Combine 3 cups water, wine, parsley, bay leaf and peppercorns in a large wide pot and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer 10 minutes. Add salmon and cook, partially covered, until flesh flakes easily when tested with a fork, about 5 minutes. Carefully remove salmon from cooking liquid and set aside; discard cooking liquid.

Place potatoes in a saucepan, cover with water and add 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil. Then reduce heat to medium and cook until just tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Drain, transfer to a large bowl and cool to room temperature.

When potatoes have cooled, add celery, eggs, green onions and dill.

Pat salmon dry with paper towels, carefully break along grain into large flakes, discarding any skin and bones. Add to potatoes. Season with salt and pepper.

Add 1/2 cup Lemon Dill Yogurt Dressing and gently fold all ingredients together with a rubber spatula.

To serve, toss mesclun with remaining 1/4 cup dressing, then divide among 4 dinner plates. Arrange salad in the center, garnish with fresh dill sprigs. Makes 4 servings.

From, ``Sheila Lukins USA Cook Book,'' Workman.

LEMON DILL YOGURT DRESSING

1 cup plain non-fat yogurt, drained 1 hour

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon peel

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill

Mix yogurt, lemon juice and peel together in a small bowl. Slowly drizzle in olive oil, whisking constantly until smooth and slightly thick.

Fold in pepper and dill. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to use, up to 8 hours. Makes 1 1/3 cups.

From, ``Sheila Lukins USA Cook Book,'' Workman.

COTTAGE CHEESE AND POTATO SALAD

Trim calories per serving by using low-fat cottage cheese and reduced- calorie mayonnaise or salad dressing.

6 medium potatoes (about 2 pounds) OR 2 pounds whole tiny new potatoes

Water

1 cup sliced celery

1/4 cup chopped green OR red bell pepper

1 cup cream-style cottage cheese

1/2 cup reduced-calorie mayonnaise OR salad dressing

Milk

1 tablespoon coarse-grain brown mustard OR prepared yellow mustard

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon dried dill weed OR basil, crushed, OR celery seeds

In a large saucepan, cook potatoes, covered, in a small amount of lightly salted boiling water until just tender. (Allow 20 to 25 minutes for medium potatoes or 15 to 20 minutes for new potatoes.) Drain potatoes well. Peel and cube potatoes or quarter new potatoes.

In a mixing bowl, combine celery, green pepper and onion. Add cooked potatoes. Toss to mix.

For dressing, in a blender container or food processor bowl, combine cottage cheese, mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons milk, mustard and salt. Cover and blend or process until mixture is smooth. Add to potato mixture. Add dill. Toss to combine all ingredients. Cover and chill at least 5 hours. If salad seems dry after chilling, stir in 1 to 2 tablespoons milk to moisten. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

From ``Better Homes and Gardens Comfort Food,'' Meredith Corp.

TRUE BLUE IOWA POTATO SALAD

Some of the finest blue cheese in the world is made in Iowa at Maytag Dairy Farms in Newton. No one will argue once they taste the creamy blue cheese dressing that coats the following potato and cucumber salad.

4 medium baking potatoes (about 2 pounds)

Water

6 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons finely chopped green onions

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil OR 1 teaspoon dried

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1 large clove garlic, crushed

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

6 ounces creamy blue cheese (such as Maytag OR Blue Castello), at room temperature

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2/3 cup heavy whipping cream 

2 small cucumbers (about 4 ounces EACH), peeled, seeded and minced

Cook potatoes, unpeeled, in boiling water until just barely tender, about 20 minutes. Rinse under cold running water and drain.

Peel potatoes while warm. Cut in half lengthwise. Cut each half into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Combine with oil, green onions, basil and parsley in a large bowl. Let stand, covered, 1 hour.

Mash garlic with salt in a small bowl until a paste is formed. Whisk in mustard. Remove any rind from cheese and add to garlic mixture in small pieces. Beat until smooth. Whisk in vinegar and cream.

Sprinkle minced cucumbers over potato mixture. Pour dressing over top of cucumbers. Gently toss to mix. Serve at room temperature. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

From ``As American As Apple Pie,'' by Phillip Stephen Schulz; Simon and Schuster.

ARTICHOKE-DILL POTATO SALAD WITH CHICKEN

3 pounds whole tiny new potatoes

Water

1 cup light mayonnaises OR salad dressing

1/2 cup chopped onion

2 tablespoons chopped dill pickle

2 tablespoons wine vinegar

2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard

1 tablespoon snipped fresh dill OR 1 1/2 teaspoons dried dill weed

1 1/2 teaspoons lemon-pepper seasoning

2 cups chopped, cooked chicken (10 ounces)

2 (6-ounce) jars marinated artichoke hearts, drained and cut up

2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and chopped

Cook potatoes, covered, in boiling, lightly salted water 20 minutes, just until tender. Drain. Cool potatoes; cut into bite-size pieces.

Meanwhile, in a very large bowl, stir together mayonnaise, onion, dill pickle, vinegar, mustard, dill and lemon-pepper seasoning. Gently fold in potatoes, chicken, artichoke hearts and eggs. Cover and chill 4 to 24 hours. Stir gently before serving. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

From ``Better Homes and Gardens Fresh and Simple Quick-Toss Salad Meals.''

COUNTRY HAM POTATO SALAD

DRESSING:

3/4 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoon minced fresh chile pepper

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

1 teaspoon ground cumin 

1/2 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

SALAD:

2 pounds boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes

Water

6 ounces baked ham, cut into 1/2-inch chunks

1 cup diced red onion

1 cup cubed (1/2-inch) peeled jicama 

Snipped fresh chives for garnish

Make Dressing by combining all dressing ingredients in a small bowl; stir until smooth.

For Salad, place potatoes in a medium-size saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain, rinse under cold water and drain again.

In a large bowl, toss potatoes, ham, red onion and jicama with dressing. Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle on chives. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

From, ``The New Basics Cookbook,'' by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins, Workman Publishing.

CAPTION(S):

6 photos

Photo:

(1 -- color) Potato salads, dressed however you like them, are a must at July 4 festivities.

John McCoy/Staff Photographer

(2 -- 6) no captions (potatoes)