ART OF THE GRILLED CHEESE MANY VARIATIONS - FROM CLASSIC TO CONTEMPORARY.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

There's something warm, cozy, irresistible and enticing about biting into a crispy, homey sandwich oozing with stretchy strands of soft, melted cheese.

``Grilled cheese is the food of childhood memories. It's simple food. It's diner food. It's kid food. And it's adult fare, too,'' says Laura Werlin, author of the just-released, ``Great Grilled Cheese: 50 Innovative Recipes for Stovetop, Grill, and Sandwich Maker (Stewart, Tabori & Chang; $16.95).

``It is the ultimate comfort food - and people love it,'' says Nancy Silverton, co-owner of Los Angeles' Campanile restaurant, founder of La Brea Bakery and author of `` Nancy Silverton's Sandwich Book: The Best Sandwiches Ever - From Thursdays Nights at Campanile'' (Knopf; $24.95).

Silverton should know, because she's been cooking an assortment of tempting grilled cheese selections on Thursday nights behind the restaurant's bar for the last eight years. (It started as a way to increase business on a slow night, and it's been super successful.) Even today, diners line up early to indulge in her gourmet creations. Campanile's grilled cheese night offers casual diners affordable, familiar, satisfying food that's fun to eat, she adds.

These days you'll also find Silverton turning out mozzarella cheese sandwiches for the new Monday night mozzarella bar at Jar restaurant in Los Angeles.

``The whole world - at least wherever they have both bread and cheese - loves a grilled cheese sandwich,'' writes London-based author Marlena Spieler in her new book, ``Grilled Cheese: 50 Recipes to Make You Melt'' (Chronicle Books; $16.95). ``Grilled cheese sandwiches are the culinary equivalent of a comfort blanket.''

They are one of the simplest things to make and can be whipped up any time in a few minutes with the ingredients more than likely already in your kitchen.

But these days the sandwiches are fashioned with a dose of modern flavors, contemporary cheese varieties and an array of breads (in addition to rolls, pita, tortillas and croissants).

``Versatility is perhaps the grilled cheese sandwich's greatest feature,'' says Werlin, adding that the sandwich can be embellished or adorned as desired and paired with numerous other components.

``You can use almost anything in addition to cheese and bread - and customize it to your own taste (fresh figs with blue cheese; broccoli, Cheddar and cayenne) and still cook seasonally,'' she adds during a phone conversation from her home in San Francisco. ``It can go anywhere, be eaten anytime (breakfast, lunch, dinner, snack, dessert) and never disappoints.''

A Classic Reuben; Swiss Melt With Bacon and Artichoke Hearts; Smoky Southwestern Grill; Grilled Cheddar, Chutney, Sausage and Cilantro; Grilled Goat Cheese With Tapenade; Fresh Mozzarella, Prosciutto and Fig Jam; Grilled Jack on Rye With Green Olive Mustard - are just a few of the newfangled, mouth-watering combos in the books designed to spark your imagination and creativity.

``Grilled cheese sandwiches don't have to be savory, they can be sweet, too!'' says Spieler, adding that you can offer them for dessert, a snack, tea or on a sweet tray. You can stuff them with Brie, cream cheese, ricotta, goat cheese, chocolate hazelnut spread, apricot or strawberry jam, fresh raspberries or blueberries, pineapple, coconut, pears, marmalade and more. For breads, try Hawaiian sweet bread, brioche or egg bread, cinnamon raisin and such.

Everybody has their own interpretation of the best or ultimate grilled cheese. Although Werlin and Silverton, like many of us, grew up on white bread and American cheese slices, that's not what they choose to eat now.

Werlin's three top favorites include Monterey Jack with any kind of bread (olive, sourdough, etc.), mozzarella or a full-flavored Cheddar.

Today, Silverton opts for La Brea Bakery sourdough country white bread with cave-aged Gruyere from Switzerland, which has a strong depth of flavor and bite, along with a certain stretchability.

``Think of your grilled cheese sandwich as a little black dress. Or for guys, a pair of jeans,'' notes Spieler. Dress it up or dress it down and accessorize as desired.

``What people put into a grilled cheese sandwich is only limited by their imagination,'' adds Werlin.

But whatever you do, keep in mind, ``A real grilled cheese has bread on both sides of the cheese,'' says Silverton. ``Otherwise it is a toasted or broiled sandwich, and that is a different animal.''

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

DUTCH GRILLED CHEESE

3 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

1 medium red onion (about 1/2 pound), thinly sliced

3/4 teaspoon cumin seeds

6 ounces best-quality medium-aged Gouda cheese, coarsely grated

8 slices rye bread with caraway seeds (1/4-inch thick)

In a large nonstick skillet, melt 1 tablespoon butter over low heat. Add onions and cook very slowly, stirring occasionally, until they turn a dark golden color, 30 to 40 minutes. If onions begin to scorch, add about 1 tablespoon water. Remove onions from pan and set aside. Wipe skillet with a paper towel, but do not wash it. (Onions can be prepared up to 6 hours in advance and kept covered at room temperature.)

Heat same skillet over medium-high heat. Add cumin seeds and toast just until they become fragrant, about 3 minutes (watch carefully, they burn easily). Remove seeds and let cool briefly. Do not wash skillet. When seeds are cool, crush using a mortar and pestle. Or place them in a resealable plastic bag and lightly pound with a mallet or bottom of a heavy skillet. In a medium bowl, toss crushed seeds with cheese.

To assemble, butter one side of each slice of bread with remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Place 4 slices on work surface, buttered side down. Distribute cheese evenly over the 4 slices, followed by onions. Place remaining 4 bread slices on top, buttered side up.

Heat same skillet over medium-high heat 2 minutes. Put sandwiches in skillet (in batches if necessary), cover, and cook 2 minutes, or until undersides are golden brown and cheese has begun to melt. Uncover, and turn sandwiches with a spatula, pressing firmly to flatten slightly. Cook 1 minute, or until undersides are golden brown. Turn sandwiches again, press with spatula, and cook 30 seconds, or until cheese has melted completely. Serve immediately. Makes 4 sandwiches.

From ``Great Grilled Cheese: 50 Innovative Recipes for Stovetop, Grill, and Sandwich Maker,'' by Laura Werlin.

THE BEST GRILLED CHEESE

2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

8 slices sourdough bread (1/4-inch thick)

6 ounces best-quality Cheddar cheese (orange OR white), coarsely grated

To assemble, butter one side of each slice of bread. Place 4 slices on your work surface, buttered side down. Distribute cheese evenly over 4 slices. Place remaining 4 bread slices on top, buttered side up.

STOVETOP METHOD: Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat 2 minutes. Put sandwiches in skillet (in batches if necessary), cover and cook 2 minutes or until the undersides are golden brown and cheese has begun to melt. Uncover, and turn sandwiches with a spatula, pressing firmly to flatten slightly. Cook 1 minute, or until undersides are golden brown. Turn sandwiches again, press with spatula, and cook 30 seconds, or until cheese has melted completely. Serve immediately. Makes 4 sandwiches.

SANDWICH MAKER METHOD: Preheat sandwich maker. Cook sandwiches according to manufacturer's instructions.

GAS GRILL METHOD: Brush grill rack with oil and preheat grill to medium-high. Put sandwiches on grill and follow directions for stovetop method.

From ``Great Grilled Cheese: 50 Innovative Recipes for Stovetop, Grill, and Sandwich Maker,'' by Laura Werlin.

A HOT MUFFALETTA (On the cover)

4 soft French rolls

Extra-virgin olive oil

A few shakes red wine vinegar

4 to 6 cloves garlic, chopped

3 to 4 teaspoons drained capers 

2 to 3 large pinches dried oregano, crumbled

1/2 cup chopped or diced roasted red pepper

4 mild pickled peppers, such as Greek or Italian, sliced

1/2 red OR other mild onion, very thinly sliced

1/2 cup sliced pimiento-stuffed green olives

1 large tomato, thinly sliced

4 ounces dried salami, thinly sliced

4 ounces Westphalian ham, smoked turkey OR mortadella 

8 ounces thinly sliced provolone cheese

Open rolls and pull out a bit of their fluffy insides. Sprinkle each cut side with olive oil and vinegar, then with garlic, capers and oregano. On 1 side of each roll, layer red pepper, pickled peppers, onion, olives, tomato, salami, ham and finally cheese. Close up tightly and press together well to help seal.

Heat a heavy nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and lightly brush outside of each roll with olive oil. Place sandwiches in pan and weight down or place in a panini press. Cook until golden brown on one side, then turn and brown second side. Sandwiches are ready when they are crisply golden and cheese has oozed a bit and crisped in places. Cut into halves and eat immediately. Makes 4 sandwiches.

From ``Grilled Cheese: 50 Recipes to Make You Melt,'' by Marlena Spieler.

RICH RASPBERRY BRIOCHE

8 ounces fresh goat cheese

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

8 slices brioche OR egg bread (1/4-inch-thick)

1/2 pint fresh raspberries (about 6 ounces), rinsed and dried well

In a small bowl, mix cheese with 2 tablespoons sugar and lemon juice. Set aside.

To assemble, butter one side of each slice of bread with butter and sprinkle remaining 2 teaspoons sugar over buttered bread. Place 4 slices on work surface, buttered side down. Spread cheese mixture evenly over the 4 slices. Carefully position raspberries in neat rows over cheese. Place remaining 4 bread slices on top, buttered side up. Cut off crusts (this helps pinch the bread together to create a tight seal).

Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat 2 minutes. Put sandwiches in skillet (in batches if necessary), cover, and cook 2 minutes or until undersides are golden brown and cheese has begun to soften. Watch carefully, because sugar burns fairly easily. Uncover, and turn sandwiches, pressing each one lightly with a spatula to flatten slightly. Cook 1 minute or until undersides are golden brown. Turn sandwiches again, press lightly with spatula and cook 30 seconds or until cheese is soft and creamy. Serve immediately. Makes 4 sandwiches.

From ``Great Grilled Cheese: 50 Innovative Recipes for Stovetop, Grill, and Sandwich Maker,'' by Laura Werlin.

BOCADILLO FROM THE ISLAND OF IBIZA

4 large soft flattish French OR Italian-style rolls, preferably sourdough

6 to 8 cloves garlic, halved

4 to 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon tomato paste (optional)

2 to 3 large ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced

Generous sprinkling dried oregano (preferably Greek, Sicilian OR Spanish)

8 thin slices Spanish jamon OR similar ham such as prosciutto

About 10 ounces mild and melting, yet flavorful cheese, such as manchego OR Jack

Mixed Mediterranean olives

Preheat the broiler. Cut open rolls and lightly toast on each side under broiler. Rub garlic on cut side of each piece of bread. (I chop any leftover garlic to sprinkle onto cheese).

Drizzle garlic-rubbed bread with olive oil and brush outsides with a bit more oil. Spread lightly with tomato paste, then layer sliced tomatoes and their juices onto rolls, pressing in tomato paste and tomatoes so that juices are absorbed into bread. Sprinkle with crumbled oregano, then layer with ham and cheese. Close up and press together well, then brush lightly with olive oil.

Heat heavy nonstick skillet pan or panini press over medium-high heat, then add sandwiches. If using a pan, weight sandwiches down. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until lightly crisped on outside and cheese begins to melt. Turn over and brown on second side.

Cut in halves, and serve immediately, with a handful of mixed olives alongside. Makes 4 sandwiches.

From ``Grilled Cheese: 50 Recipes to Make You Melt,'' by Marlena Spieler.

SANDWICH SECRETS

``There is an art to making really great grilled cheese sandwiches,'' says cookbook author and cheese expert Laura Werlin.

--Coarsely grate - don't slice - firm, cold cheeses (always remove rinds) to help them melt more quickly, before the bread burns. If using fresh cheeses, crumble or cut into small pieces.

--Pile the cheese (most sandwiches will take about 2 ounces) between bread slices (about 1/4-inch thick), then press with your palm. If using a roll, pull out some of the inside to make a small well or trough for the filling.

Flatten the sandwich with a spatula or heavy pan for even cooking.

Spread outsides of bread with softened butter (or brush with olive oil).

--For best results, use a nonstick skillet for cooking and medium to medium-high heat (adjust according to how fast the sandwich is browning and melting), but watch carefully. Cover the sandwich while cooking the first side to melt the cheese sufficiently. A griddle can also be used, but you'll need a makeshift cover. (A grill pan, sandwich press or panini pan are other equipment options).

--After flipping the sandwich when golden (peek underneath), do not cover. Press sandwich firmly with a spatula to help crisp the bread.

--Grilled cheese sandwiches can be assembled in advance and kept refrigerated up to a day, but they're best cooked just before serving.

--If you end up with extra grilled cheese sandwiches, reheat them, covered, in a dry pan, not in a microwave oven, which makes them soggy.

- N.H.

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, box

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) THE BIG CHEESE

Dress up an all-time favorite

A Hot Muffaletta

(2 -- color) Bocadillo from the Island of Ibiza

Photo by Sheri Giblin from ``Grilled Cheese,'' Chronicle Books

(3 -- color) Dutch Grilled Cheese

(4 -- color) Rich Raspberry Brioch

Photo by Maren Caruso from ``Great Grilled Cheese,'' Stewart, Tabori & Chang

Box:

SANDWICH SECRETS (see text)