ARGENTINA.

BIG AND BEAUTIFUL ARGENTINA IS a land of striking contrasts, with far-flung borders stretching 2,360 miles from the sleepy northernmost province of Jujuy to stormy Tierra del Fuego at the southern tip of the continent. Its immense size, varied geography and cosmopolitan spirit permit Argentina to offer visitors an alluring array of sights, experiences and business opportunities.

The towering Andes mountains that divide Argentina from Chile provide some of the best skiing in the world. Mount Aconcagua, the tallest peak in the Western Hemisphere, towers 6,959 meters, a draw for adventurous travelers to the province of Mendoza. Other sights worth seeing are the glacial landscape of Patagonia and the Falls of Iguazu. La Pampa, stomping ground of the gauchos, sprawls across the center of Argentina, producing world-famous beef and all manner of agricultural products.

No matter what your destination, you'll probably fly into Buenos Aires' Ezeiza International Airport, about a 40-minute drive to the city center. Be sure to set aside US$23.50 for the airport tax required when you leave the country You'll also pay $4 to $12 for domestic flights departing from Jorge Newberry Airport.

Buenos Aires, the capital, overlooks the broad Rio de la Plata, or silver river. The story goes that the survivors of a shipwrecked expedition of conquistadores were greeted by Indians bearing gifts of silver. In fact, Argentina's name is derived from the Latin word for silver, argentum.

Buenos Aires prides itself on its European ambience -- as its wide tree-lined avenues, Victorian-style marble monuments, elegant residential districts and sophisticated restaurant fare of Buenos Aires will attest. Portenos (as residents of this bustling city of 12 million are called) even dress with a decided European flair. It's not surprising that Buenos Aires is often called the "Paris of South America."

Part of the explanation lies in demographics. Most Argentineans are descended from Italian and Spanish immigrants who tightly held on to their traditions and culture as the decades passed.

The Argentine peso is tied to the U.S. dollar, and in many places, U.S. currency is accepted. Make sure your bills are clean and new; some vendors won't accept wrinkled or tattered money. Others will claim they don't have change for a $20 bill, so hang on to your smaller-denominated greenbacks.

From tango to tourist attractions, Buenos Aires offers a glittering selection of leisure activities. Don't miss seeing a tango show during your stay; your hotel concierge can recommend the current favorite.

After sampling the national dance (tango), try another national pastime: the opera. Take a backstage tour of the Teatro Colon, the historic opera house where Caruso and Maria Callas have sung, as well as the ubiquitous Pavarotti. Getting tickets for performances is a challenge because the season sells out quickly.

The Catedral Metropolitana enshrines the tomb of Jose de San Martin, who led Argentina's independence movement. It borders the Plaza de Mayo, which is overlooked by the presidential residence, the Casa Rosada (pink house). During the "dirty war" of military rule, mothers of Argentines who had been "disappeared" held protest demonstrations almost daily in the plaza.

Also worthy of view is the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, Museo del Cine and Museo Historico Nacional.

A fascinating, if somewhat morbid, attraction is the Recoleta Cemetery, a crowded mini-city of elaborate marble mausoleums and the burial place of Evita Peron. It's just a block away from the main shopping/dining district of the fashionable Recoleta neighborhood, which some liken to Beverly Hills.

During the hot Southern Cone summer (December, January and February), many denizens of the city head for the beach, usually Mar del Plata on the Atlantic coast 200 miles south. You'll see sea lions at play and marvel at the fantastic beach homes built by the wealthy. Sophisticated Portenos choose Punta del Este in Uruguay for their opulent summer abodes.

Business in Buenos Aires is done in a cosmopolitan style. Most private sector offices open punctually at 9 a.m., closing at 7:30 p.m., with a mid-day break Lunch usually starts around 1 p.m.

Note that many businesses close or cut back on their hours in December and January. Banks are open weekdays 10a.m. to 3p.m. ,but you probably will be able to make appointments with bank executives outside those hours. Government offices follow the Southern Cone practice of staying open from noon to 7p.m. during the winter and 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. during the summer.

Argentine executives prize good manners, formality and professionalism. As in most Latin American countries, abruptness is frowned upon, and personal contacts count. Professional and courtesy titles are important.

Computers, fax machines, courier services and e-mail are widespread, and nearly everyone has a cell phone. You'll find public telephones everywhere many use cards or tokens that can be purchased at nearby street booths. Simply dial the local number.

Note that the telephone numbering system in Argentina was changed in early 1999. All Buenos Aires numbers added a 4 to the beginning of the old seven digits. In addition, the city code was changed from 1 to 11, so from outside the country, you'll dial 54-11-4-xxx-xxxx. Add 2 for the city code in cities in the south and 3 for the northern reaches of Argentina. Inside Argentina, dial a 0 before the city code and number and 00 for outbound international calls. If you have questions about dialing, call 110 for help.

Buenos Aires is generally safer than most U.S. cities, though pickpocketing and purse snatchings are on the increase. Criminals often travel in pairs and use distraction ruses, such as the mustard trick. Authorities are concerned about robberies in restaurants and shops in the nicer parts of the city. Visitors have also been targeted in La Boca, a neighborhood of brightly painted iron corrugated homes that is listed as an attraction by some travel promoters.

Traffic is a nightmare; in fact, the U.S. State Department's travel advisory service characterizes Porteno drivers as "aggressive." But taxi service is excellent and inexpensive. If you can't flag a cab streetside, walk to the nearest hotel and ask the doorman to hail one. (You can also get a radio-dispatched taxi by telephone.)

Tap water is safe to drink. Electrical service is 220/240 volts at 50 cycles AC (wall plugs are European-type). Many hotel concierges will loan you a transformer if you need it.

You won't have any problem finding excellent dining. Dinner starts late by U.S. standards, often after 9 p.m., but it's worth the wait. Argentine beef and wine are stellar, and though the emphasis is on meat, vegetarians shouldn't have a problem in most restaurants.

Buenos Aires boasts a lively nightlife that goes on until the wee hours. Even at midnight, throngs of people crowd the pedestrian shopping area known as Calle La Florida, where you'll find everything from leather goods to shoes and chic boutiques. Best buys are leather and suede apparel and accessories and silver.

Other notable shopping areas in Buenos Aires are Galerias Pacifico, a mall and entertainment center in a lovely neoclassic building that was once a train station; Paseo Aicorta, Patio Bullrich, Alto Palermo and El Solar de la Abadia.

CORDOBA 

In the interior of Argentina, two other cities draw business travelers.

Cordoba, the second-largest city in Argentina, is known as "la docta" because it is home to five universities and draws thousands of college students every year. In fact, the oldest institution, the National University, founded in 1614 by the Jesuits, was the second university in Latin America. Located northwest of Buenos Aires, it is also a colonial city, with many good examples of architecture dating back hundreds of years to the days of Spanish rule.

But in the world of global commerce, the bustling city is becoming famous as a well-developed manufacturing center for autos, machinery and equipment, textiles and chemical products. During the 1990s, automakers expanded factories for exporting vehicles throughout the Southern Cone. Cordoba is also one of Argentina's bread baskets, producing agricultural and food products.

The first wines in Cordoba were produced in 1618 by the Jesuits, whose Museo Jesuitico Nacional de Jesus Maria is well worth seeing. The Museo Rural Posta de Sisacate integrates the chains of postas that linked the ancient royal road to Peru. Other sights worth visiting in Cordoba are Cerro Colorado, Santa Catalina, and several hot springs.

MENDOZA

Mendoza, located in central western Argentina 1,100 km from Buenos Aires on the border with Chile, is probably best known internationally as the home of Argentine wine country. More than 70% of Argentina's grapes are grown here. Mendoza also is growing in importance as a business city, particularly with the growth of Mercosur. Long-favored as a gateway to Andean ski resorts, it is also a center for oil production, mining and agriculture.