ARABIAN DELIGHTS OF BRAZIL.

In the world of culinary art, Brazil is to Portugal as Mexico is to Spain. These two colonies in the New World were the crown jewels of their respective motherlands. However, in their cuisines, both carrying deep Arab influences, there is a difference.

Even though many of the original colonists in both countries were Moors newly converted to Christianity, in Brazil, a huge number of African slaves were imported to work on the plantations. A good number of the latter were Muslims, and their food was saturated with North African influences. In addition, the twentieth-century Arab immigrants to the country added another dimension to Brazilian food. Hence, the Moorish heritage of the Portuguese kitchen was further reenforced by the dishes of West Africa and the Middle East.

This ethnic mixture and the diversified climate of Brazil have been responsible for the creation of one of the most varied kitchens in South America. Peppering this cuisine were many other influences. Aboriginal Indians, German, Italian, and Japanese, among others, have also contributed to the Brazilian menu. For centuries Brazilian cooks have been borrowing from the foods of other people, then combining them with their own to produce a fascinating and wide-ranging culinary world.

Above all, it was the Portuguese influence, itself greatly influenced by the Arabs, which had the main hand in the creation of Brazilian cooking. When the Arabs conquered Portugal, they brought along with them numerous new dishes. For the needed ingredients to create these foods, they introduced a considerable number of vegetables and fruits, unheard of in the Iberian Peninsula at that time--many today still carrying in Portuguese their Arabic names. From among these: apricot, in Portuguese abrico, comes from the Arabic al-barq_q; carob (alfarroba; al-khar_bah); orange (laranja; n_ranj); pomegranate (roma; rumm_n); rice (arroz; alruzz); and sugar (acucar; sukkar).

The Arab-introduced plants made possible a series of new culinary delights, expanding greatly the kitchen of the Iberian Peninsula. In Portuguese, Arabic-derived names for foods are an undeniable testimony to the influence the Moors had on the cuisine in this part of Europe. Acepipe (hors d'oeuvre, from the Arabic al-zabib); aletria (vermicelli; ir_yah); almondega (meatball; al-bunduqah); escabeche (pickles; al-skab_j); azeite (olive oil; al-zayt); sorvete (sherbet; sharbat); and xarope (syrup; shar_b) are a number of these foods.

All these culinary contributions the Arabs gave Portugal were later to be brought by the Portuguese to Brazil. This historical base of the Brazilian cuisine with its Arab connection was further buttressed in the last hundred years by the large immigration from the area of Greater Syria to all parts of the land of the Amazon. Today, in every large Brazilian town the eastern Arab delights of hummus (chick-pea appetizer), esfiha (open meat pies), tabouli (parsley salad) and, above all, kubbah (bulgar and meat patties, known in Brazil as kibbe), are offered in many homes and public eating places.

The first time I entered a restaurant in Recife, Brazil's major northeastern resort, I was astonished to see kibbe featured on the menu. In the ensuing days I not only discovered that this Middle Eastern staple had become a Brazilian food, but that, served in a great number of eating places throughout the country, it also was prepared in a much tastier fashion than in its land of origin.

It matters not if these foods are Moorish/Portuguese, twentieth-century Arab contributions, or dishes brought by the slaves to Brazil, they are much spicier than in their Arab homelands. However, they are still undeniably recognizable as Arab-influenced or almost pure Arab foods.

In the Arab lands along the eastern Mediterranean, one usually starts the day by breakfasting on hummus bi-tahini. This delightful dish, fast-spreading in Brazil, can also be served as an appetizer or a tasty snack.

HUMMUS BI-TAHINI CHICK-PEA PUREE 

Serves about 8

2 cups cooked chick-peas
1/4 cup water
4 tablespoons tahini (sesame
 seed paste, found in Middle
 Eastern and health-food stores)
4 tablespoons lemon juice
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cumin
Pinch of cayenne
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1/2 small tomato, chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil

Place chick-peas, water, tahini, lemon juice, garlic, salt, cumin, and cayenne in a blender, then blend into a thick paste. (If a thinner consistency is desired, add more water.) Place in a shallow platter and refrigerate for at least one hour. Just before serving, decorate with parsley and tomato, then sprinkle with oil and serve.

In the Middle East, tabouli is the king of salads, and the taste for this dish has reached both North and South America. In Brazil, among those who are familiar with its taste, it is a salad much relished.

TABOULI BULGAR AND PARSLEY SALAD

Serves about 8

1 cup medium bulgar
2 medium bunches parsley,
 finely chopped
1 cup finely chopped green onions
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh mint
2 medium tomatoes, diced into
 1/4 inch cubes
1 large clove garlic, crushed
 (optional)
4 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
Lettuce leaves

Soak bulgar in cold water for fifteen minutes, then squeeze water out through a strainer and set aside.

Place bulgar and all vegetable ingredients, except lettuce leaves, in a bowl, then thoroughly mix and set aside. Combine remaining ingredients, then pour over bulgar and vegetables. Toss and serve on a bed of lettuce leaves.

Kubbah is the most important dish in the lives of the people in the Greater Syria area. It can be made in numerous ways with various types of ingredients. However, bulgar is always included as a main ingredient. Of these various types of kubbahs, meat-kubbah is the most common. It can be eaten raw, made into patties and fried or grilled, or baked in an oven. An appetizing and satisfying dish, it has stood the test of centuries in Middle Eastern countries.

In Brazil, the same dish, called kibbe, has been prepared in the last few decades. However, many more spices have been added. The result is a tastier kubbah.

KIBBE MEAT AND COOKED-WHEAT PIE

Serves 8 to 10

1 1/2 cups medium bulgar
2 pounds lean lamb or round beef
 steak, cut into pieces
3 cups chopped onions
4 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon allspice
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon dried mint leaves
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons pine nuts
1 pound ground beef or lamb
1/2 cup olive oil

Soak bulgar in cold water for fifteen minutes, then squeeze water out through a strainer and set aside.

Process meat in a food processor until it is finely ground, then transfer to a mixing bowl. Thoroughly combine with bulgar, one and one-half cups of the onion, three teaspoons of the salt, one-half teaspoon of the pepper, one-half teaspoon of the allspice, and all the cinnamon, cumin, mint, and cayenne.

Process a portion at a time in the processor until the mixture is well ground, then remove from the processor and set aside.

Melt butter in a frying pan, then stir-fry the pine nuts, ground beef or lamb, remaining onions, salt, pepper, and allspice over medium heat for fifteen minutes to make a stuffing.

Divide the meat and bulgar mixture into two portions, then flatten evenly one portion in a well-greased nine-by-thirteen-inch baking pan.

Spread stuffing evenly over the top, then top evenly with the second portion of meat and bulgar mixture. With a sharp-pointed knife cut into two-inch squares, then pour oil evenly over top.

Bake in a 350 [degrees] F preheated oven for fifty minutes, then place under the broiler for five minutes, turning the pan evenly to brown.

Note: Kibbe is delicious hot or cold. For anyone interested in the exotic, this recipe, without the stuffing, can be served raw, patted down on a flat serving platter, and sprinkled with olive oil.

A Syrian/Lebanese-type pizza, esfiha is one of the countless tasty meat, vegetable, or sweet, open or filled pies made in the eastern Arab world. Great as appetizers, for the main course or as picnic fare, they are the epitome in taste of all baked products.

In Brazil, all types of meat dishes, spicier than their Middle Eastern counterparts, are offered by a good number of restaurants in the larger cities.

ESFIHA OPEN MEAT PIE

Makes 20 pies

2 pounds frozen dough, thawed,
 or an equivalent amount of
 handmade dough
2 pounds lean lamb or beef, cut
 into small pieces or coarsely
 ground
4 tablespoons butter
1 small bunch green onions,
 finely chopped
4 tablespoons finely chopped
 fresh cilantro
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 hot pepper, very finely chopped
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon oregano
3/4 teaspoon pepper
4 medium tomatoes, chopped

Form dough into twenty balls, then cover with a damp cloth and allow to rest for one-and-a-half hours. In the meantime, thoroughly mix the remaining ingredients, except half of the chopped tomatoes, then divide into twenty equal portions and set aside.

Roll dough balls into circles about five inches in diameter, then fold and pinch edges to form a raised rim. Spread a portion of the mixture inside the rim.

Continue until all circles are finished.

Place on well-greased cookie sheets and bake in a 350 [degrees] F preheated over for twenty minutes, then remove and decorate with the remaining tomato pieces. Return to the oven and bake for an additional fifteen minutes; serve piping hot.

Note: In Brazil, as in the Middle East, the pies are often closed by stretching the dough over the filling, then pinching the dough together.

Cuscuz is a version of the famous North African dish called couscous. It was introduced into South America by West African slaves who adapted it to Brazilian taste. Today, the basic difference between the two is that, in the Brazilian dish, cornmeal instead of wheat semolina is used, and it is mixed into the stew. To prepare this dish, a well-made couscousiere with a tight seal is needed. However, if one is not available, a double boiler with a perforated top may be substituted.

CUZCUZ DE GALINHA CHICKEN COUSCOUS

Serves 8 to 10

4 tablespoons cooking oil
1 pound boneless chicken,
 cut into small pieces
1/2 pound spiced sausage,
 chopped into small pieces
1 cup chopped green onions
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 medium hot pepper,
 finely chopped
4 tablespoons fresh cilantro,
 finely chopped
2 cups stewed tomatoes
1 teaspoon dried mint
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
2 cups water
2 1/2 cups cornmeal
1/2 cup butter, melted
3 medium-sized tomatoes,
 thinly sliced
1 can hearts of palm, drained
 and sliced (about 2 cups)
1/2 cup sliced green olives
4 hard-boiled eggs, shelled and
 sliced
1 cup frozen peas, thawed
2 oranges, peeled and sliced

Heat oil in a saucepan, then saute chicken and sausage over medium heat for ten minutes. Stir in the onions, garlic, hot pepper, cilantro, stewed tomatoes, mint, salt, pepper, and one cup of water, then cover and bring to a boil. Cook over medium heat for one hour or until the chicken and sausage are well cooked, adding more water if necessary. Set aside.

In the meantime, in a heavy frying pan, toast the cornmeal over medium heat for fifteen minutes, stirring constantly, then slowly stir in a cup of water and stir-cook for another three minutes, making sure no lumps form. Stir the cornmeal and the butter into the chicken and sausage mixture, then set aside.

Grease the top part of the couscousiere, then decorate the bottom and sides with some of the tomatoes, palm hearts, olives, and eggs. Divide remaining tomatoes, palm hearts, olives, eggs, and peas into two parts and set aside.

Place one-third of the cornmeal mixture on the bottom of the couscousiere, then spread one part of the tomatoes, palm hearts, olives, eggs, and peas over top. Cover with another third of the cornmeal mixture and top with the remaining tomatoes, palm hearts, olives, eggs, and peas. Evenly cover with the remaining cornmeal, then tightly cover.

Fill the bottom of the couscousiere to within one inch of the top with water, then bring to a boil. Fit in the top part of the couscousiere and steam over medium heat for one-and-a-half hours.

Remove cover and invert a serving dish over top, then turn the top part of the couscousiere onto the serving dish. Gently tap the outside of the couscousiere to release the cuscuz, then decorate with the orange slices and serve.

Note: If the couscousiere's seal is not tight, take a cloth two to three inches wide and long enough to reach around the couscousiere, fold it lengthwise to about one inch wide, soak it in one cup of water into which a tablespoon of flour has been dissolved. Place the cloth along the gap; in a few minutes the escaping steam will dry the cloth and create a seal.

Habeeb Salloum is a Canadian author and freelance writer specializing, in Arab and Latin American history, travel, and the culinary arts. He is the author of From the Lands of Figs and Olives: Over 300 Delicious and Unusual Recipes from the Middle East and North Africa and the newly published Classic Vegetarian Cooking from the Middle East and North Africa.