ANY WAY YOU COOK 'EM, ARTICHOKES TEMPT THE PALATE.

Byline: Cathy Thomas Orange County Register

It's a sure sign of spring. Softball-size artichokes, firm and bright green, are piled high in markets.

These beautiful thistlelike buds, picked at their springtime best, most often are free of browning or blistering on the leaf tips - discoloration caused by frost. That's a condition more common in fall and winter artichoke crops.

Cooked until tender and cut in half lengthwise, the choke can easily be hollowed out with a spoon and filled with a variety of mixtures, from luscious seafood salads to tasty cold rice concoctions to warm artichoke dips.

These tidy artichoke-half containers are a treat for the eye as well as the palate. The flowerlike shape of the bisected artichoke looks magnificent on the plate. Plus, artichokes take time to eat; they simply can't be consumed quickly, a bonus for diners seeking extended mealtime conversation.

When filled with salads, they make perfect luncheon entrees or can be served as a first course at dinner. The artichokes can be cooked three days before serving and stored airtight in the refrigerator.

Before cooking the artichoke, pull off the small ragtag lower leaves and cut the stem to 1 inch. Using a sharp knife, cut off the top 1 inch of the artichoke. Using kitchen scissors, snip off points of remaining leaf tips. In a small bowl, combine 1 cup water and 2 tablespoons lemon juice; dip all cut edges in lemon-water mixture. The artichokes now are ready for cooking.

Cooks have different opinions about the best way to cook artichokes: Boiling, steaming and microwaving are all successful methods, but I've always preferred them boiled, simply because I think they taste better that way. I place slivers of garlic between a few of the leaves (about five per artichoke) and throw a sprig or two of fresh herbs, such as rosemary or thyme, into the water. Of course, these ingredients can be added using all three techniques, but they add more flavor when the vegetable is boiled.

Because my use of the "boiled" method has caused some culinary arguments over the years, here's a rundown on each method:

Boiled artichokes: Stand prepared artichokes in a deep saucepan or Dutch oven with 3 inches of water. Oil, lemon juice and seasoning may be added to the cooking water if desired. Cover and boil gently 30 to 40 minutes (depending on size) or until a petal near the center pulls out easily. Remove from pan and turn upside down to drain.

Steamed artichokes: Place prepared artichokes on rack above boiling water. Cover and steam 25 to 45 minutes (depending on size) or until a petal near the center pulls out easily.

Microwaved artichokes: Place prepared artichokes in deep microwave-safe cup or bowl. Add water (1/2 cup for 1 artichoke, 1 cup for 2 artichokes and 1 cup for 4 artichokes. Using a 600- to 700-watt microwave oven, microwave 1 artichoke 5 to 7 minutes, 2 artichokes 7 to 10 minutes and 4 artichokes 12 to 15 minutes.

To store raw artichokes, sprinkle with a few drops of fresh water, place in an airtight plastic bag and refrigerate. They should store successfully up to 10 days.

Once they have cooled, cooked and drained, artichokes can be cut in half lengthwise. Scoop out the chokes (fuzzy centers) and the small inedible leaves using the bowl of a small spoon. Store airtight in plastic bags in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

ARTICHOKE HALVES WITH SCALLOPS PROVENCAL

3/4 pound peeled, deveined raw shrimp OR bay scallops

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil 

2 large shallots, and minced

1/4 cup cider vinegar 

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 bunch fresh tarragon OR basil, minced

2 large tomatoes, cored and diced

Mixed baby lettuce for garnish

8 artichoke halves, cooked and hollowed out

Belgian endive and 1/2 cup chopped tomatoes for garnish (optional)

Pat shrimp dry with paper towels. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet or wok. Saute shrimp until they are just barely cooked. Remove from skillet.

Prepare vinaigrette. In a small bowl combine shallots, vinegar, salt, pepper and mustard; stir to dissolve salt and blend ingredients. Stir in 1/2 cup olive oil in a thin stream. Pour mixture over shrimp, reserving about 1/4 cup for later use. Allow mixture to cool 15 minutes. Add tarragon and tomatoes; gently toss. Taste and add more salt and pepper, if necessary.

Arrange a small nest of mixed lettuce in center of each of 8 serving plates. Place an artichoke half on top of each nest. Fill cavity of artichoke with shrimp mixture. If desired, place several leaves of Belgian endive at the base of each artichoke and garnish with chopped tomatoes. Drizzle reserved vinaigrette over lettuce and garnish. Makes 8 servings.

ARTICHOKE HALVES WITH CURRIED RICE SALAD

1 package (6.9 ounces) chicken-flavored rice mix

2 green onions, trimmed and sliced

1/2 green bell pepper, finely chopped

8 stuffed green olives, sliced

2 jars (6 ounces EACH) marinated artichokes

1/2 teaspoon curry powder 

1/3 cup mayonnaise

Mixed baby lettuce for garnish

8 artichoke halves, cooked and hollowed out

Belgian endive and 1/2 cup chopped tomatoes for garnish (optional)

Prepare rice mix according to package directions. Cool.

Stir green onion, bell pepper and olives into rice mixture. Drain marinated artichokes, reserving marinade. Chop drained, marinated artichokes and add to rice mixture.

Combine half artichoke marinade with curry powder and mayonnaise; stir to blend. Stir mayonnaise mixture into rice mixture.

Arrange a small nest of mixed lettuce in center of each of 8 serving plates. Place an artichoke half on top. Fill cavity of artichoke with rice salad mixture. If desired, place several leaves of Belgian endive at the base of each artichoke and garnish with chopped tomatoes. Drizzle reserved marinated artichoke liquid over the lettuce and garnish. Makes 8 servings.

ARTICHOKE HALVES WITH FRESH MUSHROOMS IN BLUE CHEESE VINAIGRETTE

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese

1/2 cup red wine vinegar 

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon EACH salt and pepper

4 cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons minced fresh basil OR tarragon

1 pound fresh mushrooms, cut in half (if small) OR in quarters (if large)

Mixed baby lettuce for garnish

8 artichoke halves, cooked and hollowed out

Belgian endive and 1/2 cup chopped tomatoes for garnish (optional)

Place olive oil in a small bowl or glass measuring cup. Add blue cheese and use a dinner fork to press some of crumbled cheese against side of container - it will dissolve a little and make mixture cloudy white.

Add red wine vinegar, lemon juice, salt, pepper, garlic and basil; stir to combine. Place mushrooms in a medium, nonreactive bowl. Add vinaigrette dressing and toss. Cover and refrigerate 24 hours.

Arrange a small nest of mixed lettuce in center of each of 8 serving plates. Place artichoke half on top. Fill cavity of artichoke with mushroom salad mixture, drizzling some dressing over leaves. If desired, place several leaves of Belgian endive at base of each artichoke and garnish with chopped tomatoes. Drizzle a little dressing over lettuce and garnish. Makes 8 servings.

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Photo (color) Spring provides a bounty of fresh artichokes, which make a delicious meal, stuffed or eaten as is. Nick Koon/Orange County Register