AN EASY ENTRY INTO 2004 SIMPLE, QUICK OFFERINGS MAKE CASUAL NEW YEAR'S ENTERTAINING A BREEZE.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

With the New Year just hours away, it's still possible to whip up a few good appetizers and drinks, invite a few friends over and have an impromptu last-minute party. Or maybe you already have one planned.

Easy eating options include a Mascarpone and Goat Cheese Torta With Smoked Salmon that goes together in a jiffy with store-bought smoked salmon, pistachio nuts, and mascarpone and goat cheeses. It needs a couple of hours in the fridge, so you can even make it after work if the party is starting late in the evening.

Another winner is a Hot Crab Dip with cream cheese, Parmesan cheese, mustard, green onions and canned crab. You can substitute reduced-fat items (like Neufchatel cheese and reduced-fat mayonnaise) in the mixture, if desired, with good results.

For something more substantial, you might even set out a baked, sliced ham with mini rolls or assorted breads along with an assortment of mustards. For a showy, no-work offering, accompany with an antipasto platter with purchased items such as roasted red peppers, assorted olives, sliced tomatoes, mini fresh mozzarella balls, salami and marinated artichoke hearts. Or just pick up an array of three or four cheeses, crackers and a few pates.

In the spirit of the season, offer a festive eggnog, wassail, hot spiced cider or mulled wine. Keep in mind that punches are a terrific way to serve large or small crowds as they streamline the bartender's chores.

Make eggnog from scratch with the cooked version here - or just add a few spices, a little rum or brandy and lots of whipped cream to the prepared variety. You can spike the cider or not, as desired. Or offer two versions to accommodate guests.

More dazzling drink ideas - something for every taste for New Year's bashes - can be found in the new ``Holiday Cocktails,'' by Los Angeles resident Jessica Strand (Chronicle Books; $15.95). It's filled with 50 recipes for holiday cheer - many of them classics with a twist.

If you're really pressed for time, ask guests to each bring a bottle of wine or champagne - or simply stop by Trader Joe's or a liquor store and get an assortment to try - like a mini wine tasting.

Any or all of these ideas would serve you well at football-watching festivities or open houses on New Year's Day, too.

Keep it casual, simple and easy - and have fun. It's almost time to sit around the fire, enjoy friends and family, and celebrate the New Year.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

MASCARPONE AND GOAT CHEESE TORTA WITH SMOKED SALMON

1/4 cup shelled salted pistachios

6 ounces mascarpone OR natural cream cheese, at room temperature

6 ounces fresh plain goat cheese, at room temperature

Freshly ground white pepper

Olive oil, as needed 

1/2 cup finely chopped smoked salmon, packed

1/2 baguette, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices

In a small dry skillet, stir pistachios over medium-low heat until lightly toasted and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Turn onto a kitchen towel and fold towel over them. Let nuts cool 2 to 3 minutes, then rub together vigorously inside towel to loosen skins. Pour into a colander and shake over sink, letting skins fall through. Chop nuts into pieces no larger than 1/4-inch. Set aside.

In a small bowl, combine mascarpone and goat cheeses. Season with white pepper to taste and stir until blended and smooth. Line a deep 3- or 4-cup rounded bowl or mold with plastic wrap, letting edges hang over sides. Lightly oil plastic wrap. Spoon 1/3 of cheese mixture into bowl. Using an oiled tablespoon, pack it down firmly. Spread smoked salmon evenly over cheese, packing it down and leveling top. Spoon in another 1/3 of cheese, packing it down firmly. Sprinkle most of pistachios evenly over cheese, reserving some for sprinkling on top. Spoon in remaining cheese, packing it down firmly and leveling top. Cover with overlapping plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours.

Place baguette slices in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Toast in a preheated 350-degree oven about 5 minutes or until dry on top. Turn slices over and toast on other side until crisp on edges but still soft in center, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer to wire racks and cool.

To serve, uncover top of torta and unmold it onto a large serving plate. Remove plastic and sprinkle reserved pistachios on top. Let torta stand at room temperature 1 hour. Arrange baguette slices around torta and serve. Makes 12 servings.

NOTE: Recipe can be doubled, if desired. Mold in a larger bowl.

From ``Williams-Sonoma Christmas,'' by Carolyn Miller.

WASSAIL

Cinnamon stick

6 cloves

6 whole allspice berries

2 cups cranberry juice

6 cups apple cider

3 tablespoons sugar syrup OR granulated sugar

1/2 cup calvados 

1/2 cup brandy

1 pippin OR Granny Smith apple, quartered, cored and thinly sliced for garnish

Wrap spices in cheesecloth and tie with string. Place cranberry juice, apple cider, sugar syrup and spices in a stockpot; bring to a simmer and cook 8 to 10 minutes. Add calvados and brandy and cook 1 to 2 minutes longer. Remove cheesecloth. Serve from heat-proof bowl into heat-proof cups - top each with a thin slice of apple. Makes 8 servings.

From ``Holiday Cocktails,'' by Jessica Strand.

CLASSIC COOKED EGGNOG

6 eggs

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt (optional)

1 quart milk (see Note)

1 teaspoon vanilla

Garnishes OR Stir-Ins, optional

In a large saucepan, beat together eggs, sugar and salt. Stir in 2 cups milk. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture is thick enough to coat a metal spoon with a thin film and reaches at least 160 degrees F. Remove from heat. Stir in remaining 2 cups milk and vanilla. Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, several hours or overnight.

Just before serving, pour into a bowl or pitcher. Garnish or add Stir-Ins, as desired. Serve immediately. Makes about 1 1/2 quarts or 12 (1/2-cup) servings.

NOTE: For faster preparation, heat milk until very warm before stirring it into eggs and sugar.

GARNISHES OR STIR INS: Choose one or several of the following: chocolate curls, maraschino cherries, cinnamon sticks, orange slices, extracts or flavorings, peppermint sticks or candy canes, flavored brandy OR liqueur, plain brandy, rum OR whiskey, fruit juice or nectar, sherbet or ice cream, ground nutmeg and whipped cream.

HOT CRAB DIP

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1/4 cup mayonnaise OR salad dressing

1/4 cup dry white wine OR apple juice

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon ground mustard (dry)

4 medium green onions, thinly sliced (1/4 cup)

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 (6-ounce) can crabmeat, drained, cartilage removed and flaked

Assorted crackers OR sliced raw vegetables for dipping, if desired

1/3 cup sliced almonds, toasted, if desired

Mix all ingredients except crabmeat, crackers and almonds in a medium bowl until well blended. Stir in crabmeat. Spread crabmeat mixture in an ungreased 9x1 1/4-inch pie plate or shallow 1-quart casserole. Bake uncovered in preheated 375-degree oven 15 to 20 minutes or until hot and bubbly. Serve on crackers. Sprinkle with almonds. Makes 2 1/2 cups dip.

From ``Betty Crocker's Best Christmas Cookbook.''

HOT SPICED CIDER

1 orange

8 whole cloves

8 cups (64 ounces) unfiltered apple juice

Stripped zest of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 cinnamon stick, plus extra cinnamon sticks for garnish

Using a vegetable peeler, cut zest from 3/4 of orange and set aside. Cut orange into quarters so that one quarter contains all intact zest. Insert cloves into skin of quarter that still has its zest and put it in a large non-aluminum saucepan. Squeeze juice from remaining orange quarters into pan. Add apple juice, reserved orange zest, lemon zest and juice and cinnamon stick and bring to a gentle simmer over low heat. Simmer about 20 minutes.

Strain hot cider and ladle into cups or heatproof glasses. Garnish with cinnamon sticks, if desired, and serve warm. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

From ``Williams-Sonoma Christmas,'' by Carolyn Miller.

MULLED WINE

12 whole cloves

2 nutmegs, cracked into pieces with a hammer

2 (750 milliliter) bottles dry red wine

1/2 cup sugar

Stripped zest from 2 oranges and 2 lemons, plus extra zest for garnish

3/4 cup fresh orange juice

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

2 cinnamon sticks

Tie cloves and nutmeg pieces in a small square of cheesecloth (muslin) or put in a large metal tea ball. In a large non-aluminum pot, combine wine, sugar, orange and lemon zests, orange and lemon juices and cinnamon sticks. Add clove-and-nutmeg bundle. Heat over medium-low heat until steam begins to rise from pot and mixture is hot, about 10 minutes; do not let boil. Remove and discard bundle. Keep wine warm over very low heat until ready to serve. Ladle into cups or heatproof glasses, garnish with citrus zest (if using), and serve warm. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

From ``Williams-Sonoma Christmas,'' by Carolyn Miller.

THE GRINCH

This drink gets its name from its bright green color. Its subtle melon flavor makes it a wonderful aperitif or a nice light drink to sip by the fire.

1/2 ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon sugar syrup

2 ounces (1/4 cup) Midori (melon liqueur)

Frozen melon ball OR maraschino cherry for garnish

Pour lemon juice, sugar syrup and Midori over a handful of ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake until cold, then strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a frozen melon ball or maraschino cherry. Makes 1 drink.

From ``Holiday Cocktails,'' by Jessica Strand.

CAPTION(S):

5 photos

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) Welcome 2004

Keep New Year's festivities easy and enjoyable

From ``Williams-Sonoma Christmas,'' Simon & Schuster.

(2 -- color) Wassail

From ``Holiday Cocktails,'' Chronicle Books.

(3 -- color) Hot Crab Dip, from ``Betty Crocker's Best Christmas Cookbook,'' Wiley Publishing, Inc.

(4 -- color) Classic Cooked Eggnog

(5 -- color) The Grinch

From ``Holiday Cocktails,'' by Jessica Strand