AN AMERICAN IN ITALY : WILLINGER COOKS WITH `RED, WHITE & GREENS'.Byline: Natalie Haughton Daily News Food Editor Faith Willinger popped into the office one day last week laden with baskets of beautiful, fresh red, green and white vegetables picked up from growers at the Santa Monica Santa Monica (săn`tə mŏn`ĭkə), city (1990 pop. 86,905), Los Angeles co., S Calif., on Santa Monica Bay; inc. 1886. Tourism and retailing are important, and the city has motion-picture, biotechnology, and software industries. farmers market just hours before. The American food and travel writer, who has lived in Italy the last 23 years (the 17 most recent in Florence), was ecstatic about the terrific assortment she found, including some Tuscan kale kale, borecole (bôr`kōl), and collards, common names for nonheading, hardy types of cabbage (var. , which she'd never seen in markets here before. It seemed only natural that you'd find the enthusiastic Willinger with veggies Veggies of Nottingham, also known as Veggies Catering Campaign, is a campaigning group based in Nottingham, England, promoting ethicalbum alternatives to mainstream fast food. in hand, ready to tell how to prepare and serve them. She was in town to promote her first cookbook, ``Red, White & Greens: The Italian Way With Vegetables,'' a three-year project. ``The book, designed for anyone who loves vegetables and loves Italy, documents an Italian attitude toward vegetables: When you go to a farmers market, buy the best produce you can get your hands on and go home and figure out what you are going to do with it - usually as little as possible so you can taste each ingredient. But this attitude only works if you are cooking simple food,'' said Willinger, a joyous, down-to-earth epicure. The Italian way with vegetables is less fussy than the American way The American way of life is an expression that refers to the "life style" of people living in the United States of America. It is an example of a behavioral modality, developed from the 17th century until today. which, in Willinger's opinion, involves too many ingredients. Unlike Americans, who tend to set out with a recipe in hand when they market or plan a shopping list, Italians subscribe to Verb 1. subscribe to - receive or obtain regularly; "We take the Times every day" subscribe, take buy, purchase - obtain by purchase; acquire by means of a financial transaction; "The family purchased a new car"; "The conglomerate acquired a new company"; the make-it-as-you-go school of cooking. ``Italians buy the vegetable(s) and then decide what they are going to make.'' And they are casual about quantities. ``The Italians went crazy when they saw me measuring everything for recipes for the book,'' Willinger said. ``Follow my precise recipes once or twice, until you become comfortable with the recipe - then do it your way,'' Willinger advised. Willinger noted that the recipes in the book, which are organized alphabetically by vegetable, came mostly from home cooks, friends and restaurant chefs who have taken her into their kitchens over the last two decades in Italy. The dishes are simple foods that Italians eat every day at home. Italians are into quick cooking just as Americans are, she added. Willinger tested the recipes in Florence and then sent them to New York New York, state, United States New York, Middle Atlantic state of the United States. It is bordered by Vermont, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and the Atlantic Ocean (E), New Jersey and Pennsylvania (S), Lakes Erie and Ontario and the Canadian province of for another round using American ingredients and produce. Willinger is adamant about using the best olive oil olive oil, pale yellow to greenish oil obtained from the pulp of olives by separating the liquids from solids. Olive oil was used in the ancient world for lighting, in the preparation of food, and as an anointing oil for both ritual and cosmetic purposes. you can get your hands on and says ``finding a first-rate extra virgin olive oil, which is expensive ($30 to $35 a bottle) - and an extravagance - is essential for the success of these recipes.'' The rest of the ingredients in her recipes aren't expensive, she added - and a $30 bottle of extra virgin olive oil will last awhile. Mindful that people are concerned about fat and oil these days, she has reduced the amount of oil in her recipes to an acceptable minimum. Unlike some other food experts who recommend cooking with pure olive oil and and using extra virgin only for salads or uncooked dishes, Willinger uses extra virgin for everything. ``It's like cooking with margarine and putting butter on the table. There is simply no point in using inferior olive oil.'' Willinger's favorite extra virgin olive oils are Castello di Ama, from central Chianti Classico Chianti Classico is a wine produced in a Chianti's sub-area. There are actually 8 sub-areas in Chianti: Classico, Colli Aretini, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Senesi, Colline Pisane, Montalbano, Montespertoli and Rùfina. south of Florence and Tenuta di Capenzzana from the Carmignano area west of Florence. The oils are best used within a year of production, she said, but if they are stored in a cool, dark place away from heat (provided they are in a dark glass bottle), they will last two to three years, she said. ``Olive oils go rancid ran·cid adj. Having the disagreeable odor or taste of decomposing oils or fats. rancid having a musty, rank taste or smell; applied to fats that have undergone decomposition, with the liberation of fatty acids. only if they are exposed to heat and light.'' Willinger said she easily fell in love with Italian food. ``It's food that moves me and excites me. It comes from the heart,'' she said. When she first arrived in Italy as a divorced tourist with a 2-year-old son in 1973, Willinger said she was shocked to find out what the food was really like. ``There were no spaghetti and meatballs Noun 1. spaghetti and meatballs - spaghetti with meatballs in a tomato sauce dish - a particular item of prepared food; "she prepared a special dish for dinner" , no spumoni spu·mo·ni or spu·mo·ne n. An Italian ice cream having layers of different colors or flavors and often containing fruits and nuts. [Italian, augmentative of spuma, foam, from Latin ,'' she said. ``I discovered red and yellow peppers for the first time.'' Enthused about Italian food and desiring to learn all she could, she wrote to Julia Child Julia Child (August 15, 1912–August 13, 2004) was a famous American cook, author, and television personality who introduced French cuisine and cooking techniques to the American mainstream through her many cookbooks and television programs. inquiring how she could do for Italian food what Julia had done for French food. Julia told her to work in restaurant kitchens and study with professional chefs, which Willinger did for a year in Rome. Along the way, she met a Florentine, Massimo Tarli, an electrical engineer in the defense industry. They lived together for 17 years and married five years ago. ``He's a fabulous cook, and he taught me about olive oil,'' said Willinger, who entertains casually with her husband a couple of times a week. Willinger said she became passionate about Italian food by traveling throughout the 20 regions of Italy and by sampling when people said ``Taste this'' wherever she went. In 1989, she wrote ``Eating in Italy,'' a traveler's guide to 11 Italian regions. ``Italians everywhere want to tell you about their food,'' she said. ``In the last two decades, I've made a million friends, and they've taken me into their kitchens.'' Not bad for someone who grew up in White Plains, N.Y., eating plain food. The most exotic thing she ever ate at home was a boiled artichoke artichoke, name for two different plants of the family Asteraceae (aster family), both having edible parts. The French, or globe, artichoke (Cynara scolymus . Although she was interested in food and did a little baking as a child, Willinger doesn't bake at all anymore. ``I'm not a dessert person - I'm into entrees and pastas.'' In Italy, she said, ``ingredients taste different in different regions and towns, and they are used in different ways.'' Her favorite food regions include Tuscany and Venice. ``Venice has the best and the worst fish in the world,'' she said. She also likes Rome, Sicily and Puglia. You'll find her pantry in Florence stocked with Adj. 1. stocked with - furnished with more than enough; "rivers well stocked with fish"; "a well-stocked store" stocked furnished, equipped - provided with whatever is necessary for a purpose (as furniture or equipment or authority); "a furnished apartment"; great rice, great pasta, the best extra virgin olive oil, garlic and canned diced tomatoes In the simplest definition, diced tomatoes are just that, tomatoes that have been diced. In the United States retail environment, however, the term refers to a relatively recent arrival in the processed tomato market, generally consisting of canned chunks of plum tomatoes in tomato . She also uses fresh basil (available to her six months of the year) and fresh tomatoes (in season) with abandon. ``I can make tomato sauce in three minutes "Three Minutes" is the 46th episode of Lost. It is the twenty-second episode of the second season. The episode was directed by Stephen Williams, and written by Edward Kitsis and Adam Horowitz. It first aired on May 17, 2006 on ABC. with a can of tomatoes - by simply sauteing garlic, and adding tomatoes and fresh basil.'' When basil isn't available, she substitutes flat leaf parsley and chopped arugula arugula or rocket Yellowish-flowered European herbaceous plant (Eruca vesicaria sativa), of the mustard family, cultivated for its foliage, which is used especially in salads. . Willinger uses nothing frozen with the exception of fresh hot peppers that she freezes for use year-round; however she does rely on certain canned items. When it comes to presentation, Willinger opts for the simplest possible. ``I want food prepared, put on the plate and eaten immediately. I want to eat a tomato, not a tomato rose,'' she said. Although Willinger loves visiting the United States United States, officially United States of America, republic (2005 est. pop. 295,734,000), 3,539,227 sq mi (9,166,598 sq km), North America. The United States is the world's third largest country in population and the fourth largest country in area. , she said she plans to stay in Italy. ``I love it, and I love the Italian attitude. There's no one way of doing things. Each Italian feels he or she is the exception to the rule.'' If there's a no-parking or no-littering sign, someone will park there for just a second or litter just a little, Willinger noted. ``It's a riot - and sometimes infuriating. It's a country of individualists.'' As for her wisdom for home cooks, Willinger suggested using fresh and seasonal and local ingredients. If there's one thing Willinger would like to be remembered for, it's her Fettunta (garlic bread). ``It's my signature dish A signature dish is a recipe that identifies an individual chef. Ideally it should be unique and allow an informed gastronome to name the chef in a blind tasting. It can be thought of as the culinary equivalent of an artist finding their own style, or an author finding their own .'' To get a taste of what ``Red, White & Greens: The Italian Way With Vegetables'' has to offer, give the following recipes a try. TOMATO AND MOZZARELLA moz·za·rel·la n. A mild white Italian cheese that has a rubbery texture and is often eaten melted, as on pizza. [Italian, diminutive of mozza, a cut, mozzarella, from mozzare, SALAD FROM CAPRI Insalata caprese Insalata Caprese (Salad in the style of Capri) is a simple salad from the Italian region of Campania, made of sliced fresh mozzarella, plum tomatoes and basil. It is seasoned with salt, black pepper, and olive oil. , the salad from Capri, is the perfect dish for cooks in a hurry. Slicing is the hardest part. Bright red tomato slices are interspersed with juicy white mozzarella and whole green basil leaves, drizzled with a little extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and a twist of pepper. The salad was created in the 1950s, a substitute for the sumptuous cooking at the Trattoria trat·to·ri·a n. pl. trat·to·ri·as or trat·to·ri·e An informal restaurant or tavern serving simple Italian dishes. [Italian, from trattore, host, from trattare da Vincenzo for summertime regulars out for a light lunch. They'd order a ripe, just-picked tomato and a fresh, locally made fior di latte, cow's milk mozzarella - no buffalo on the island of Capri. The salad has evolved on Capri to include a few leaves of rughetta, wild arugula and a pinch of dried wild oregano oregano (ərĕg`ənō), name for several herbs used for flavoring food. A plant of the family Labiatae (mint family), Origanum vulgare, , both island products; everywhere else in Italy the salad is limited to tomato, mozzarella and basil. The dressing is always a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Vinegar would destroy the delicate flavor of fresh mozzarella and is never used. Because the Capri salad is so simple, first-rate ingredients are imperative. Mozzarella should be fresh, white, locally made or imported. Both yellow, rubbery, processed mozzarella wrapped in plastic and hothouse hothouse: see greenhouse. tomatoes are unacceptable. 1/4 cup loosely packed fresh basil leaves 1/4 cup loosely packed arugula (optional) 2 pounds ripe tomatoes, sliced 1/2-inch thick 1 pound fresh mozzarella, sliced 1/4-inch thick 1 pinch dried oregano (optional) 3 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Fine sea salt Freshly ground black pepper black pepper or pepper Perennial, woody climbing vine (Piper nigrum) of the family Piperaceae, native to India; also, the hotly pungent spice made from its berries. Tear basil and arugula into bite-size pieces. Alternate slices of tomato, mozzarella and basil leaves on a serving platter. Scatter arugula and oregano on top. Drizzle salad with extra virgin oil, season with sea salt and pepper
FRANCESCA'S ZUCCHINI CARPACCIO car·pac·cio n. Very thinly sliced raw meat or fish, especially beef or tuna, garnished with a sauce. [Italian, after Vittore Carpaccio, who favored red pigments. How did new wave raw zucchini carpaccio, vegetarian variation of a Venetian raw meat appetizer, wind up on the menu of Borgo Antico, a popular neighborhood pizzeria around the corner from my apartment? Florentine Francesca Cianci moved to New York and cooked at the restaurant Mezzaluna for five years, came home in 1990 and got a job managing Borgo Antico. She added stylish but simple dishes to the menu, using the produce form the farmers at the Santo Spirito market in front of the restaurant. Francesca now cooks at Il Borghetto, an elegant country inn in Montefiridolfi, outside Florence and Borgo Antico no longer serves her zucchini carpaccio. But I make it all the time when the farmers at the market sell fresh, just-picked zucchini, since it's one of the fastest recipes I know, an almost effortless appetizer with no cooking and only five ingredients, plus salt and pepper. Each one should be of the highest quality. Fresh, seasonal zucchini are imperative; supermarket zucchini should be avoided. Use a potato peeler potato peeler n → pelapatatas m inv potato peeler potato n → épluche-légumes m potato peeler potato n to produce curls of Parmigiano cheese. Two medium-size zucchini, sliced paper thin, can cover an entire platter. 2 small fresh zucchini 1/3 cup tightly packed arugula, roughly chopped 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar balsamic vinegar n. 1. An aromatic vinegar of Modena, Italy, made from white Trebbiano grape juice that is heated and aged in wooden barrels for several years. 2. Any of various similar vinegars. (optional) Fine sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 piece Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, about 4 to 6 ounces Trim ends from zucchini and carefully slice into Verb 1. slice into - move through a body or an object with a slicing motion; "His hand sliced through the air" slice through go, locomote, move, travel - change location; move, travel, or proceed, also metaphorically; "How fast does your new car go?"; "We paper-thin rounds on a mandoline man·do·line n. 1. A utensil consisting of a base into which adjustable blades are set, used to slice or cut fruits and vegetables. 2. A mandolin. [Variant of mandolin.] , meat slicer or with a 1-mm food processor blade. Put zucchini on a large serving platter. Chop arugula and sprinkle over zucchini. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar and season with sea salt and pepper. Shave curls of Parmigiano-Reggiano directly over zucchini and arugula to cover. Serve immediately. Makes 4 to 6 servings. TUSCAN TUNA AND BEANS WHITE OR GREEN Preserved tuna, packed in extra virgin olive oil, is paired with white beans in Tuscany, a speedy dish to assemble, if you've got beans on hand. Canned beans work well and simplify this preparation - open a few cans and chop an onion. Quality tuna makes a big difference in the success of this dish. Leftover grilled or poached poach 1 tr.v. poached, poach·ing, poach·es To cook in a boiling or simmering liquid: Poach the fish in wine. tuna can be used instead of canned, but it should be marinated in extra virgin olive oil. All choices will work better than insipid tuna packed in water. 1/2 medium red onion, chopped OR 2 green onions, chopped 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar Noun 1. wine vinegar - vinegar made from wine vinegar, acetum - sour-tasting liquid produced usually by oxidation of the alcohol in wine or cider and used as a condiment or food preservative 3 cups cooked beans OR 1 pound steamed OR boiled green beans green beans Noun, pl long narrow green beans that are cooked and eaten as a vegetable 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil Fine sea salt Freshly ground pepper 8 to 10 ounces canned tuna, packed in olive oil OR fresh tuna, grilled OR poached, marinated in extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon chopped parsley Marinate mar·i·nate v. mar·i·nat·ed, mar·i·nat·ing, mar·i·nates v.tr. To soak (meat, for example) in a marinade. v.intr. To become marinated. onion with vinegar 15 minutes. Drain onion. Put beans in a serving bowl. Mix with onion, extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and pepper. Drain tuna, break into flakes or chunks with a fork and scatter on top of beans. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 4 to 6 servings. GARLIC BREAD FETTUNTA This is, without a doubt, my favorite My Favorite is an independent synthpop band from Long Island, New York. They released two CDs: Love at Absolute Zero and Happiest Days of Our Lives. My Favorite broke up on September 14, 2005, when singer Andrea Vaughn left the band. recipe in the world. It's fast, simple, calls for no special equipment or skills and is open to seasonal adaptation with the addition of numerous toppings. Diners always seem to be impressed. Fettunta, a contraction of the words fetta, ``slice,'' and unta, ``oily,'' is prepared by olive oil millers on a heater/stove while working at the cold, damp, oily-aired mill. Bread is lightly toasted, rubbed with garlic, dipped in newly pressed, bright green, peppery-flavored olive oil, sprinkled with salt and pepper. It's meatless, milkless, effortless, pleasing to even the most jaded palates and involves none of the fuss usually associated with garlic bread - peeling and chopping garlic, brushing oil on the bread. Traditionalists will need a wood fire, although a charcoal or gas grill or a toaster See intranet toaster and Video Toaster. (jargon) toaster - 1. The archetypal really stupid application for an embedded microprocessor controller; often used in comments that imply that a scheme is inappropriate technology (but see elevator controller). will do. And scouts can skewer their bread on a stick. Unsalted rustic Tuscan bread, white or whole wheat, sliced about 3/4-inch thick, is the bread of choice for olive oil millers. First rate extra virgin olive oil is a must, otherwise you'll wind up with greasy bread instead of fettunta. Newly pressed oil, called olio o·li·o n. pl. o·li·os 1. A heavily spiced stew of meat, vegetables, and chickpeas. 2. a. A mixture or medley; a hodgepodge. b. nuovo, easily recognizable by its bright color, cloudy with chlorophyll, found from late November through January in Italy, yields spectacular results. 4 slices country-style bread, sliced 3/4-inch thick 1 garlic clove, unpeeled Un`peeled a. 1. Thoroughly stripped; pillaged. 2. Not peeled. 1/2 cup OR more extra virgin olive oil Fine sea salt Freshly ground black pepper Toast, grill or broil bread slices until lightly colored on both sides. Rub garlic clove over bread's surface. The garlic will grate itself on the hardened toast and peel will disentegrate. Garlic lovers should press hard. Drizzle at least 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, barely enough for any self-respecting Tuscan, over each slice of toasted bread, sprinkle with sea salt and pepper and serve immediately. Makes 4 servings. CAPER PASTE WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES I found this caper paste on a foraging trip on Pantelleria with Anna Tasca Lanza, Sicilian marchesa mar·che·sa n. pl. mar·che·se 1. The wife or widow of a marchese. 2. An Italian noblewoman ranking above a countess and below a princess. 3. Used as the title for such a noblewoman. and gastronome, author of ``The Heart of Sicily'' (Clarkson Potter). 1/2 cup capers CAPERS. Vessels of war owned by private persons, and different from ordinary privateers (q.v.) only in size, being smaller. Bea. Lex. Mer. 230. , preferably packed in salt 3 cups water (optional, for salt-packed capers) 1/4 cup sun-dried tomatoes Extra virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons dried Sicilian oregano Soak salt-packed capers 30 minutes in 3 cups water, drain and pat dry with paper towels. Or rinse brine-packed capers and pat dry with paper towels. Process capers with sun-dried tomatoes, 1/4 cup olive oil and oregano to make a fine textured paste. Pack into a jar and cover caper paste with a thin layer of olive oil. Store in refrigerator. Makes about 1 cup. PANTELLERIA POTATO SALAD Prepare this salad at least 30 minutes before serving so that the vegetables marinate in the extra virgin olive oil, wine vinegar and oregano dressing. 1 pound potatoes Water Sea salt 1 pound tomatoes 1 large red onion 2 to 3 tablespoons capers 1/4 cup black OR green olives (optional) 1 tablespoon wine vinegar 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon dried Sicilian oregano (OR fresh, if you can't find good quality dried oregano) Freshly ground pepper Place potatoes in a large pot and add water to completely cover. Add 1 tablespoon sea salt and boil potatoes 20 to 30 minutes or until tender when pierced with a toothpick toothpick, n a wood sliver used to cleanse the interdental space. toothpick, balsa wood, n a triangular wedge of balsa wood used to clean the teeth interproximally and stimulate the interdental gingival tissues. . Drain potatoes, peel while still warm and cool. Cut tomatoes in half and squeeze into a sieve over a small bowl, pressing contents to extract juice. Save juice for another use. Cut seeded, juiced See Joost. See also juice. tomatoes into chunks. Cut onion in half then in 1/4-inch thick slices. Slice potatoes 1/2-inch thick or into chunks. Rinse capers to eliminate excess salt. Toss potatoes, onions, tomatoes, capers, olives, vinegar, olive oil, oregano and sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste and serve. Makes 4 to 6 side dish side dish n. A dish served as an accompaniment to the main course. Noun 1. side dish - a dish that is served with, but is subordinate to, a main course entremets, side order servings. STAFF LUNCH LENTIL lentil, leguminous Old World annual plant (Lens culinaris) with whitish or pale blue flowers. Its pods contain two greenish-brown or dark-colored seeds, also called lentils, which when fully ripe are ground into meal or used in soups and stews. AND RICE SOUP I first encountered this soup in Rome over 20 years ago. I learned the basic techniques of Italian cooking at Ristorante Silvano Paris, where I apprenticed when I first came to Italy. Classic Italian and Roman cucina were beautifully prepared but my favorite recipes were always from the staff meals, food considered too humble to appear on the menu. Restaurant owner restaurant owner n → dueño/a or propietario/a de un restaurante , Silvano Paris had lunch daily in the dining room with a few regular clients, but I never failed to ask what the staff had eaten, often preferring the simple dishes to the classic fare offered on the daily menu. 1/2 cup chopped red onion 3/4 cup chopped celery 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 cup uncooked lentils, picked over and rinsed 1/4 cup canned tomato Canned tomatoes are tomatoes, usually peeled, that are sealed into a can, after having been processed by heat.[1] Variants Plum tomatoes such as Roma or San Marzano are the most common choice for canning, since they have a greater solid-to-liquid ratio sauce 8 cups hot water OR light broth Sea salt to taste 3/4 cup rice for risotto ri·sot·to n. pl. ri·sot·tos A dish of rice cooked in broth, usually with saffron, and served with grated cheese. [Italian, from riso, rice, from Old Italian; see rice. (Vialone Nano OR Carnaroli brands) Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped celery OR parsley leaves 1/2 to 3/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano OR Pecorino Romano Pecorino Romano is a hard, salty Italian cheese, suitable primarily for grating, made out of sheep's milk (the word pecora, from which the name derives, means in fact sheep). cheese (optional) Place chopped onion and celery in a 3-quart pot, add oil and stir to coat vegetables. Cook over medium heat until onion is soft. Add garlic and cook 1 to 2 minutes. Add lentils, tomato sauce, hot water and salt. Heat to boiling; reduce heat and simmer about 35 minutes or until lentils are almost cooked. (Dish can be prepared in advance up to this point.) Add rice to lentils, bring to a simmer and cook 20 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, especially during final minutes of cooking. Add more water, if soup seems too dry. Taste for salt and season with pepper. When rice is cooked but still firm and not mushy mush·y adj. mush·i·er, mush·i·est 1. Resembling mush in consistency; soft. 2. Informal a. Excessively sentimental. See Synonyms at sentimental. b. , remove pot from heat and let soup stand 5 minutes. Garnish with celery leaves. Serve plain or garnish with cheese. Makes 6 to 8 first-course servings. AUNT ENZA'S GREEN SAUCE My husband Massimo's Aunt Enza's cooking is Florentine with an occasional novelty picked up from the recipe section of a Franciscan calendar that hangs in her kitchen. We love her green sauce, salsa verde, which varies from the Italian classic of parsley, onion, anchovies anchovies a cause of diarrhea, vomiting, salivation, lacrimation, depression, miosis, polypnea, tachycardia, hypothermia in cats. , capers and plenty of extra virgin olive oil. Aunt Enza's salsa verde has a chopped hard-boiled egg to give it body and it's more like paste than sauce. She serves it as a condiment for boiled meats but I use it with grilled fish or spread on small pieces of toasted country bread. All ingredients are finely minced, which Aunt Enza does by hand, although a food processor does a great job. The sauce is glued together with first-rate extra virgin olive oil. 1/2 slice stale bread Water 2 tablespoons salted capers 3/4 cup Italian parsley OR 1/2 cup parsley and 1/4 cup arugula leaves, whole, packed in a measuring cup 1/2 medium red onion 2 to 3 anchovy anchovy: see herring. anchovy Any of more than 100 species of schooling saltwater fishes (family Engraulidae) related to the herring. Anchovies are distinguished by a large mouth, almost always extending behind the eye, and by a pointed snout. fillets 1/2 to 3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/2 teaspoon red wine vinegar 1 hard-cooked egg Fine sea salt (optional) Freshly ground black pepper Soak bread in water, squeeze out water and measure 2 tablespoons squeezed, soaked bread. Soak capers in 2 cups water at least 30 minutes to remove excess salt. Drain capers and pat dry. Process capers, parsley, onion, anchovy fillets and damp bread until finely minced. Add oil and wine vinegar and combine well. Add egg, quartered, and pulse to chop. Taste and season with sea salt and pepper. Sauce will keep few days in refrigerator. Makes about 1 1/2 cups sauce. FABIO'S LIVORNO-STYLE FISH Fabio Picchi, chef-owner of the restaurant Cibreo in Florence, makes fish Livorno-style, cooked in a thick tomato sauce. It's one of the few great fish recipes in Tuscany, named for the city on the coast known in English as Leghorn Leghorn: see Livorno, Italy. leghorn Breed of chicken that originated in Italy; the only Mediterranean breed of importance today. Of the 12 varieties, the single-comb white leghorn is more popular than all the other leghorns combined; the leading . Fabio usually uses a member of the shark family, smooth hound (palombo), but red mullet mullet: see silversides. mullet Any of fewer than 100 species (family Mugilidae) of abundant, commercially valuable schooling fishes found in brackish or fresh waters throughout tropical and temperate regions. and salt cod are also prepared Livorno-style. Red snapper, fresh tuna or any firm-fleshed white fish can be substituted with success. 1 1/2 pounds fish fillets Flour Fine sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley 1 fresh hot red pepper OR chile pepper flakes to taste 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 3 cups tomato pulp 1/2 cup fish stock OR clam juice Lightly coat fish fillets with flour and seson with sea salt and pepper. Put garlic, parsley and hot pepper in a large skillet, drizzle with oil and cook over medium heat until garlic barely begins to color. Add tomatoes and fish stock and bring to a simmer. Put fish fillets in skillet and immerse in simmering tomato sauce so fillets are covered. Cook over low heat, barely simmering 5 to 10 minutes or until fish is cooked. Makes 4 to 6 servings. FRESH TASTING TOMATO SAUCE AND SPAGHETTI Almost all tomato sauce recipes call for at least 30 minutes of cooking, but I make my tomato sauce in less than 10 minutes, by using a large skillet instead of the conventional saucepan. The tomatoes cook faster on the larger surface of the skillet and taste fresher than sauces subjected to 45 minutes of heat. Pasta is added to the sauce in the skillet to finish cooking both pasta and sauce together. This basic tomto sauce can easily be prepared while waiting for the pasta water to come to a boil. Ripe seasonal tomatoes, preferably plum or sauce tomatoes, which have a lower water content, should be used when available but first-rate canned tomato pulp is a good choice for the rest of the year. I rarely peel fresh tomatoes when I make sauce, but those who wish to peel should. 1 1/2 pounds tomatoes OR 2 cups tomato pulp 1 to 2 garlic cloves, minced 3 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Fine sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 5 to 6 quarts water 14 to 16 ounces spaghetti 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil OR any combintion of chopped fresh herbs 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggino cheese for topping pasta (optional) Peel tomatoes, if desired, with a vegetable peeler or by blanching
Put garlic in a large nonstick non·stick adj. Permitting easy removal of adherent food particles: a frying pan with a nonstick surface. nonstick Adjective skillet and drizzle with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Place over moderate heat and cook until garlic barley begins to color. Add tomatoes to skillet and cook over moderately high heat 5 minutes or until tomatoes look cooked and most but not all liquid has evaporated. Add sea salt and pepper to taste. For a smooth sauce, blend cooked tomatoes in a food processor with remaining 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil and return sauce to skillet. For a chunky sauce, add remaining oil before serving. Bring 5 to 6 quarts of water to a rolling boil. Add 1 tablespoon sea salt and spaghetti; cook until pasta still offers considerable resistance, about 3/4 of cooking time. Drain pasta, reserving 2 cups cooking water. Add drained al dente pasta, 1/2 cup pasta cooking water and basil to sauce in skillet. Cook over high heat, stirring to mix sauce and pasta, until pasta is cooked. Add more pasta water, if sauce becomes too dry. Serve immediately, topped with cheese. Makes 4 to 6 servings. TORQUATO'S DROWNED CAULIFLOWER cauliflower (kô`lĭflou'ər, käl`ĭ–), variety of cabbage, with an edible head of condensed flowers and flower stems. Broccoli is the horticultural variety (botrytis); both were cultivated in Roman times. Cauliflower is drowned in tomato sauce spiced with fennel fennel, common name for several perennial herbs, genus Foeniculum vulgare of the family Umbelliferae (parsley family), related to dill. The strawlike foliage and the seeds are licorice-scented and are used (especially in Italian cooking) for flavoring. and garlic, a wonderful recipe recounted by Torquato, my favorite farmer at the Santo Spirito market in Florence. Water 1 1/2 to 2 pounds cauliflower Coarse sea salt 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 garlic cloves, minced 1/2 cup tomato pulp, fresh OR canned 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds Freshly ground pepper In a large pot, bring at least 5 quarts water to a rolling boil. Detach florets from cauliflower at base of stems. Cook cauliflower in boiling water with 2 to 3 tablespoons sea salt 5 minutes or until al dente. Drain with a slotted spoon, refresh in cold water, drain and reserve. Save cauliflower cooking water. Heat olive oil and garlic in a large nonstick skillet. When garlic barely begins to color, add tomato pulp and fennel seeds and cook over moderate heat 2 to 3 minutes. Add cauliflower and 1 cup hot cauliflower cooking water. Simmer 10 to 15 minutes or until cauliflower is soft and liquid has evaporated. Add more cooking water, if sauce gets too dry. Season with sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Makes 4 to 6 side dish servings. SPOTLIGHT ON ... Faith Willinger Age: 50. Profession: Food and travel writer, cookbook author and owner of Cucina Tuscana (since 1985), a travel and tour planning consulting service for tourists and professionals. Hometown: Born in Port Chester, N.Y.; grew up in White Plains, N.Y. Food background: A year working in restaurants in Rome; took classes in Italian cooking in Northern Italy; 23 years on Italian soil scouting, tasting and learning about Italian food. Most popular dish she makes: Beans in any form. Pet peeve: Cheap olive oil. Favorite cookbook: ``China Moon Cafe,'' by Barbara Tropp. Ideal vacation: Sicily. Favorite foods: Garlic Bread Fettunta (her recipe is included today). Favorite junk food junk food n. Any of various prepackaged snack foods high in calories but low in nutritional value. junk food : Fast-food french fries. Secret food passion: Great extra virgin olive oil. Favorite restaurant: Cibreo in Florence, Italy. Favorite thing to cook and eat: Pasta with tomato sauce. Favorite kitchen gadget: Pasta pot with insert. ``I use it to cook vegetables and pasta,'' Willinger said. What does she do when not cooking?: She's in front of the computer writing, playing Tri Peaks or surfing the Net. If she couldn't be a food and travel writer, what would she be?: ``I can't imagine doing anything else,'' Willinger said. ``I love what I'm doing.'' Dream job: ``I have it.'' Worst kitchen disaster: ``I ran out of gas (I cooked off a gas tank when I lived in the Italian countryside) on a three-day weekend, which meant no cooking.'' If she could dine with anyone (current or in history) who would it be?: Aretha Franklin. ``She sings the way I think Italian food is,'' Willinger said. ``The soul quality of her singing is like the soul quality of Italian cooking.'' CAPTION(S): 3 Photos, Box Photo: (1--Color) Faith Willinger's Tomato and Mozz arella Salad From Capri: In this case, haste makes taste. First-rate ingredients - including mozzarella, extra virgin olive oil, juicy tomatoes and fresh basil - are a must. (2) Francesca's Zucchini Carpaccio is an almost effortless appetizer that involves no cooking and is assembled from just five ingredients, plus salt and pepper. (3) No caption (Faith Willinger) David Crane/Daily News Box: SPOTLIGHT ON ... Faith Willinger (See text) |
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