AN AFFAIR TO REMEMBER\Create a award-winning evening with our Oscar-night menu.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Daily News Food Editor

If movie directors have the slogan "lights, camera, action" to get their work in motion, then chefs have their own battle cry - "preparation, preparation, preparation" - to get ready for the Academy Awards. Come Monday morning, chefs and cooks throughout Los Angeles will be in a frenzy of activity as they prepare for dinners, buffets and parties galas marking the 68th annual Academy Awards ceremony.

"I don't think anything is easy if you want to make it perfect," said Wolfgang Puck, the celebrity chef who is overseeing the Governors Ball, the post-Oscar gala at the Los Angeles Music Center Plaza. "In a movie, if it's not good, you can reshoot it, but I cannot cook and serve the Acadmey Awards dinner again. It has to be perfect the first time."

Puck will be relying on 60 chefs and cooks - including several from his Spago restaurant in Las Vegas and Postrio in San Francisco - to help prepare the menu for the 1,650 guests at the Governors Ball.

The staff from Puck's Spago restaurant in West Hollywood will be busy preparing the same menu for the invitation-only party being hosted by Miramax Films.

"We'll have 200 for dinner at Spago (where the Academy Awards will be televised during the meal) and 500 people later in the evening," Puck said.

Food and wine for the Governors Ball will begin arriving Friday, and cooking preparations will start early Monday, Puck said. The salmon and veal entrees and vegetables will be cooked in huge tented kitchens just before serving.

To juggle his commitments and cook at both parties, Puck will travel by helicopter between Spago and the Music Center.

"I'll get ready downtown, return to Spago by 5 p.m. and go back downtown at 7 p.m., after everyone has been seated at Spago," Puck said.

He ferried by helicopter between Oscar parties last year - a plan that went awry when he learned at the last minute that the aircraft couldn't land near the Shrine Auditorium because the USC football team was practicing. The crisis was averted when a friend of Puck's secured a special permit for the helicopter to land atop the nearby Transamerica building.

Timing is everything for Leonard Schwartz, executive chef and managing partner at Maple Drive, the Beverly Hills restaurant where Cartier is sponsoring its $1,000-a-plate Oscar dinner and cocktail party to benefit the Elton John AIDS Foundation.

"Cooking for 260 dinner guests is probably a lot easier than making a movie," he said. "The difficult and most nerve-racking thing is to serve 260 people all at the same time."

Schwartz is trying to make serving easier by streamlining the menu and serving only a single entree - Mushroom Risotto with Grilled Portobello Mushrooms With or Without a Grilled Chicken Breast.

"We do not plate the food ahead of serving and cover it as some of the large hotels do," he said. "We dish up the plates as they are going out of the kitchen which requires the right, simple menu and lots of organization."

Claude Segal, executive chef and partner at Drai's restaurant in West Hollywood, has overseen two previous Oscar galas, and said that preparation is the key to the success of any party.

"It's a matter of how well organized you are. We've been planning and working on the details for the last month," said Segal, who is cooking for the Columbia Pictures party, which will include 200 guests at a sit-down dinner and 300 to 400 more at a post-awards buffet.

Segal and two dozen cooks - some of them chef friends - will start preparations at 6 a.m. Monday.

"The worst part is the timing - and the last hour before the party starts when you have 60 minutes left to make sure everything is done on time," Segal said.

"The best part is when the party is starting and the buffet is served," Segal said, although he admitted feeling "very relieved and very happy when the party is over."

Meanwhile, at the Century Club and Gardens, the staff will be getting ready for the seventh annual Film League viewing party, a 350-guest dinner underwritten by Raymond Weil Geneve and Los Angeles magazine. Proceeds will be used to provide housing for indigent actors.

If you're having an at-home Academy Awards gathering and want to dine in style, pick from our special menu designed to simulate some of the creations the chefs will be serving Monday night. Puck recommends serving buffet style so guests can eat at their leisure and help themselves to wine, champagne and liqueur as desired. He also advises making as much in advance as possible and reheating if necessary.

ROASTED POTATOES WITH SOUR CREAM AND CAVIAR 

Serve these potatoes with a glass of fine champagne.

1 pound small (about 8) red OR white rose potatoes, scrubbed well

2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

1/2 cup (about) sour cream OR creme fraiche

1/2 cup (about) whitefish OR sevruga caviar

Cut away ends of potatoes and use for another meal. Cut each potato into 1/2-inch rounds.

Brush a baking tray with a little melted butter and arrange potato slices on tray. Brush tops with melted butter and season lightly with salt and pepper.

Roast in preheated 400-degree oven 15 to 20 minutes, turn, brush with melted butter and season lightly with salt and pepper. Roast 15 minutes longer or until the potatoes are very tender and golden brown. Drain on paper towels and adjust seasonings to taste. Keep warm in a low oven.

PRESENTATION: Arrange potatoes slices on a serving tray. Spread a little sour cream on each slice and spoon 1/4 teaspoon caviar in center. Serve immediately. Makes 32 slices.

NOTE: Cut potato ends are delicious sauteed in a little olive oil with garlic.

From "Wolfgang Puck Adventures In the Kitchen," Random House.

VEGETABLE SPRING ROLLS

2 tablespoons sesame oil

1/2 cup EACH thinly slivered red and yellow bell peppers

1 1/2 cups shredded carrots

2 cups finely sliced napa cabbage

1/2 cup chopped celery

8 large green onions, thinly sliced diagonally

2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

1 1/2 cups bean sprouts, chopped

3/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon seasoned salt

3/4 teaspoon garlic pepper

1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger plus 1 small piece fresh ginger, peeled

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

2 tablespoons soy sauce

6 (7-inch square) refrigerated egg roll skins OR wrappers

1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water

1/2 cup peanut OR vegetable oil

Spicy OR Honey Mustard Sauce

In a large wok or 12-inch skillet, heat 2 tablespoons sesame oil until hot. Add red and yellow peppers, carrots, cabbage, celery, green onions and cilantro. Stir fry over high heat, 3 to 4 minutes; drain off all excess liquid (turn into a colander, if desired, and press with back of a spoon) and discard.

Stir in bean sprouts, garlic powder, seasoned salt, garlic pepper, grated ginger, oyster sauce and soy sauce. Set aside to cool.

If vegetable mixture exudes more liquid, drain off excess again.

Arrange 6 egg roll skins (cornstarch side in) on diagonal with points at top and bottom on dry, flat surface.

Divide vegetable mixture equally among the 6 skins, forming a sausage-like strip across skin with vegetables, about 2 inches from bottom point.

Bring bottom point of egg roll skin up over filling. Using fingertip and some of cornstarch mixture, moisten all edges of egg roll skin. Turn right and left sides in to form an envelope and then roll up to top point, forming a 4- to 5-inch long and 1 1/2- to 2-inch wide roll. Seal with cornstarch mixture.

In an 8-inch skillet, heat 1/2 cup peanut oil and remaining piece of ginger over high heat; when ginger starts to turn brown, remove ginger with a slotted spoon.

Add 2 egg rolls at a 2time to hot oil and fry, turning to brown on all sides. Remove to a paper-towel lined plate to drain.

Fry remaining rolls.

To serve, cut each roll diagonally (lengthwise) in half. Place 4 halves with vegetables showing on each serving plate. Drizzle lightly with Spicy Mustard Sauce. Serve with remaining mustard sauce for dipping. Makes 3 to 6 servings.

SPICY OR HONEY MUSTARD SAUCE: In a small bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons Dijon OR Honey mustard, 1 teaspoon dry mustard, 1/2 teaspoon grated OR powdered ginger, 1 tablespoon sesame oil, 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and 2 tablespoons water until blended and smooth.

SHRIMP WITH TOMATO-BASIL VINAIGRETTE

Santa Barbara shrimp, found in the Pacific Ocean, are most prized for their taste and their size. They are usually sold with head and tail intact. However, Gulf shrimp make a good substitute.

SHRIMP:

16 large shrimp, such as Santa Barbara shrimp

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

TOMATO-BASIL VINAIGRETTE:

6 ripe plum tomatoes (about 1 pound), peeled, seeded and diced

2 medium shallots, minced

2 garlic cloves, blanched and julienne cut

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil plus 4 whole sprigs for garnish

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 tablespoon wine vinegar

1 tablespoon lime juice

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Remove heads of shrimp and peel shell, leaving tail intact. Season lightly with salt and pepper and set aside.

To prepare vinaigrette, in a small bowl, combine tomatoes, shallots, garlic, basil and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in vinegar, lime juice and 1/2 cup olive oil and mix well.

Heat a 10-inch skillet and pour in remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Over medium-high heat, cook shrimp, in batches, if necessary, about 1 1/2 minutes per side. Do not crowd pan. Do not overcook; well-done shrimp will become dry.

Spoon some vinaigrette into center of each of 4 plates. A2rrange 4 shrimp on vinaigrette and garnish with basil sprigs. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

From "Wolfgang Puck Adventures In the Kitchen," Random House.

PIZZA WITH SMOKED SALMON AND CAVIAR

1 ball (about 1 pound) prepared pizza dough (purchase at an Italian deli OR market OR homemade)

Extra-virgin olive oil

2 to 3 tablespoons minced fresh dill

1 cup dairy sour cream

Freshly ground pepper

3 to 4 ounces smoked salmon

2 heaping tablespoons domestic golden caviar

1/2 heaping teaspoon black caviar

Roll or stretch dough into 2 (8-inch) circles. Place dough rounds on a lightly floured jellyroll pan. Brush each dough round to within 1-inch of edge with olive oil.

Bake in preheated 475-degree oven 8 to 12 minutes or until crust is golden brown.

Mix dill with sour cream and freshly ground pepper to taste. Transfer baked dough rounds to heated dinner plates and spread each with 1/2 of sour cream mixture.

Divide salmon, arranging decoratively, on top.

Place 1 tablespoon golden caviar in center of each pizza, then spoon a little of black caviar in center of golden caviar. Garnish each pizza with 1 small dill sprig. Makes 2 pizzas, 6 to 12 servings.

ROASTED SALMON WITH HORSERADISH POTATO PUREE AND RED PEPPER SAUCE

Salmon, prepared this way, is an excellent dish for a large group, since the salmon can be readied earlier in the day, the slices arranged on large baking trays, and roasted as needed.

SALMON:

4 salmon fillets, about 3/4-inch thick, 6 to 7 ounces EACH

Salt

2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted butter, melted

1 1/2 tablespoons crushed black peppercorns

POTATOE PUREE:

1 1/2 pounds (about 2 large) baking potatoes, peeled and quartered

Lightly salted water

2/3 cup whipping cream

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Salt, freshly ground white pepper and freshly grated nutmeg to taste

RED BELL PEPPER SAUCE:

5 tablespoons unsalted2 butter

1/2 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced

1/2 medium red onion, diced

2 garlic cloves, mashed

Leaves from 2 sprigs thyme

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 cup whipping cream

Juice 1/2 medium lemon

Salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

1 to 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish to taste

Season salmon lightly with salt, brush top with a little melted butter and immediately sprinkle evenly with crushed pepper. Drizzle remaining butter over. If you wait too long, butter will harden and mixture won't stick. Refrigerate, covered, until needed.

To prepare potato puree, in a medium saucepan, place potatoes with lightly salted water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook until tender, about 25 minutes. Puree in a food mill, return to a clean pan and keep warm.

Heat cream and stir into potatoes. In a small skillet, over moderate heat, melt butter and cook until butter is brown and has a nutty aroma. Pour into potatoes, add parsley and mix well. Season with salt, pepper and horseradish to taste and keep warm over simmering water.

To prepare red pepper sauce, in a 10-inch skillet, melt 3 tablespoons butter. Saute pepper, onion, garlic and thyme until onion is translucent, about 10 minutes. Deglaze with wine and cook until 3 tablespoons liquid remain. Pour in cream and bring to a boil.

Scrape contents of skillet into a blender and puree until smooth. Strain, return to a clean pan and reheat. Whisk in remaining 2 tablespoons butter and lemon juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm.

To cook salmon, brush some olive oil over a baking tray large enough to hold salmon slices in one layer and arrange salmon on tray.

Roast in preheated 500-degree oven until medium, about 10 minutes. Salmon should be cooked on outside, but still moist and slightly underdone on inside.

PRESENTATION: Divide Red Pepper Sauce among 4 warm dinner plates saving some for top of salmon, if desired. Spoon equal amounts of Potat2o Puree in center of each plate and place 1 piece of salmon on top. Drizzle with remaining sauce. Makes 4 servings.

From "Wolfgang Puck Adventures In the Kitchen," Random House.

CHOPPED VEGETABLE SALAD

1 cup peeled and minced carrots

1 cup crisp-tender cooked tiny peas

1 cup finely chopped, peeled and seeded tomatoes

1 cup fresh white OR yellow corn kernels, steamed 2 minutes in microwave oven

1 cup finely chopped fresh green beans OR zucchini, steamed 2 minutes in microwave oven

1 cup finely chopped radicchio

1 cup finely chopped mesclun salad mix

1/2 cup finely chopped celery

3 to 4 tablespoons finely minced red onion

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar OR red wine vinegar

2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil

1 to 1 1/2 cups finely grated Parmesan cheese

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large mixing bowl, combine all ingredients. Mix thoroughly. Refrigerate. Serve in mound on bed of mixed greens. Makes 4 to 5 first-course servings.

NOTE: If you plan to prepare salad more than 1 hour ahead of serving time, stir in chopped radicchio, mesclun greens and Parmesan cheese just before serving.

From a Daily News Retaurant Replica column.

STIR-FRIED VEGETABLES

The combination of the oil, stock and soy sauce produces a glaze for the vegetables. When cooked, the vegetables should be shiny and crispy with no stock remaining in the pan.

1 tablespoon peanut oil

1/4 pound Chinese snow peas, cut into 1-inch chunks

1/8 pound (2 ounces) oyster mushrooms, whole OR cut in half, depending upon size

1/8 pound (2 ounces) shiitake mushrooms, whole OR cut in half, stems removed (stems can be added to stocks for flavor)

1/4 EACH red and yellow bell peppers, cut into strips and then 1-inch chunks

1/2 large Japanese eggplant, cut into 6 or 7 slices

1/4 medium bok choy, cut into 1-inch chunks

5 to 6 broccoli florets

5 young asparagus, cut into 1 1/2- to 2-inch lengths

1/3 cup chicken stock, heated

1 tablespoon soy sauce

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

In a wok or large skillet, heat oil over high heat until hot. Add all vegetables and stir-fry, until crisp-tender. Pour in stock and soy sauce and stir until still crisp about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately. Makes 2 to 4 servings.

TO PREPARE AHEAD: Have all ingredients cleaned and cut and cook when ready to serve.

From "Wolfgang Puck Adventures In the Kitchen," Random House.

CHOCOLATE BOURBON CAKE

This cake recipe was shared by Melinda Bugarin, pastry chef at Eureka, Wolfgang Puck's defunct restaurant and brewery in Los Angeles. The dense cake is served with espresso ice cream alongside and sometimes in a pool of bittersweet chocolate sauce. Alone or with ice cream, it's yummy and moist

6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, cut up, OR 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips

5 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate, cut up

2 1/2 sticks (10 ounces) butter, softened

1 3/4 cups sugar

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup bourbon

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 1/2 cups brewed espresso OR strong coffee

1 tablespoon light corn syrup

Grease a 9-inch springform pan (it must be at least 2 1/2 inches high). Line with a round of wax paper cut to fit bottom. Grease wax paper, dust with cocoa and tap out any excess. Wrap foil around outside of pan to avoid any leakage of cake into oven during baking.

In a 2-quart glass bowl, combine 3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, unsweetened chocolate and 2 sticks butter. Heat in microwave oven on high (100 percent) power 2 minutes, stirring once, until melted and smooth when stirred. Whisk in sugar, eggs, vanilla and bourbon until well mixed.

Combine flour and baking soda. Add to chocolate mixture in 2 batches alternately with coffee, whisking well after each addition. Batter will be thin.

Pour cake batter evenly into prepared pan.

Bake in preheated 325-degree oven 65 to 70 minutes, or u1ntil a cake tester inserted in center comes out clean. Cool cake in pan 1 to 2 hours.

Meanwhile, in a 2-cup glass measure, combine remaining 3 ounces bittersweet chocolate and 1/2 stick butter with corn syrup. Heat in microwave oven on high power 1 to 1 1/2 minutes, until melted and smooth when stirred. Let glaze stand until cool but not thickened, about 30 minutes.

Unmold and invert cake onto a serving plate. Peel off wax paper and turn cake right side up. Using a spatula or flat knife, spread glaze over top and sides of cake. Refrigerate cake until is chilled and glaze is set, 3 to 4 hours or longer. Serve with ice cream or whipped cream and fudge sauce. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

From "365 Great Chocolate Desserts," by Natalie Haughton, HarperCollins.

68TH ACADEMY AWARDS GOVERNORS BALL MENU X (Los Angeles Music Center Plaza)

PASSED HORS D'OEUVRES

Smoked Salmon Pizza With Dill Cream and Caviar

Pizza With Grilled Vegetables

Pizza With Duck Sausage

Roasted Potatoes and Caviar

Vegetable Spring Rolls With Honey Mustard Glaze

Tempura Shrimp With Wasabi Cream

APPETIZER PLATE

Marinated Artichokes With White Truffle Vinaigrette

Spago Chopped Chino Vegetable Salad

Marinated Shrimp With Basil

Tuna Tataki With Wasabi Cream

Asparagus With Orange Mustard

Smoked Salmon on Grilled Bread

Parmesan Bread Sticks With Prosciutto

MAIN COURSE

Roasted Alaskan Salmon With Horseradish Potato Puree

and Sweet Pepper Fondue

and

Grilled Free Range Veal Medallion With Ginger and Orange

Glaze and Stir-Fried Spring Vegetables

DESSERT

Oscar's Delight

Oscar's Favorite Chocolate Cake With Wild Berries

X The same menu will be served at the Miramax Films party at Spago

ELTON JOHN AIDS FOUNDATION DINNER PARTY MENU Maple Drive

PASSED HORS D'OEUVRES

Mini Crab Cakes With Sevruga Caviar

Fried Calamari With Cocktail Sauce

Grilled Gulf Shrimp With Japanese Vinaigrette

S1cottish Salmon With Potato Pancakes and Gold Caviar

Baby Artichokes With Spinach and Parmesan

Tuna Tartare With Daikon and Cucumber

Duck Pate With Cornichons

Buffalo Mozzarella Crostini With Grilled Eggplant and Tomato

Beef Carpaccio With Capers

FIRST COURSE

Mixed Field Greens With Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Toasted Pine Nuts,

Roast Peppers and Goat Cheese

MAIN COURSE

Wild Mushroom Risotto With Grilled Portobello Mushrooms

With or Without a Grilled Chicken Breast

DESSERT

To be furnished by The Foundation

Coffee, Tea, Cappuccino, Espresso

COLUMBIA PICTURES DINNER PARTY MENU DRAI'S

FIRST COURSE

Malibu Field Mixed

Baby Lettuce With Truffle Dressing

SECOND COURSE

Maine Lobster Ravioli

MAIN COURSE

Baked Loup De Mer With Pouilly-Fuisse Sauce

OR

Beef Tenderloin Pepper Steak

DESSERT

Fresh Raspberry Sorbet

Homemade Cookies

THE FILM LEAGUE NIGHT OF 100 STARS DINNER PARTY MENU THE CENTURY CLUB AND GARDENS

FIRST COURSE

Asparagus and Mushroom Napolean

MAIN COURSE

Broiled Salmon

OR

Sliced Breast of Chicken Dijonnaise

Fresh Baked Breads

DESSERT

Creme Fraiche Cheesecake With Strawberry Sauce

Coffee, Tea

Wine, Liquor, Champagne

OSCAR-NITE AT HOME MENU

ROASTED POTATOES WITH SOUR CREAM AND CAVIAR

VEGETABLE SPRING ROLLS

SHRIMP WITH TOMATO-BASIL VINAIGRETTE

PIZZA WITH SMOKED SALMON AND CAVIAR

ROASTED SALMON WITH HORSERADISH PUREE AND RED PEPPER SAUCE

CHOPPED VEGETABLE SALAD

STIR-FRIED VEGETABLES

CHOCOLATE BOURBON CAKE

CAPTION(S):

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Drawing (1-3) No caption (Color--Oscar statuette) Box (1) 68th ACADEMY AWARDS Governors Ball Menu (See text) (2) COLUMBIA TRISTAR PICTURES DINNER PARTY MENU (See text) (3) ELTON JOHN AIDS FOUNDATION Dinner Party Menu (See text) (4) THE FILM LEAGUE NIGHT OF 100 STARS DINNER PARTY MENU (See text) (5) OSCAR NITE AT HOME MENU (See text)