AMERICA'S FAVORITE SEAFOOD.

Byline: Deborah S. Hartz Fort Lauderdale Sun-Sentinel

Sometimes, the little guys do win.

Lobsters may be loved, dolphin adored, tuna treasured - but they've got nothing on shrimp, the most popular item on the menus of seafood restaurants nationwide. Only salmon and swordfish come close. Shrimp consumption has risen more than 36 percent during the past decade.

Here's the whole shrimp tale.

That's a lot of shrimp: In 1994, we ate 673.92 million pounds of shrimp - that's 2.6 pounds per person. The United States imports about 80 percent of the shrimp we eat. World shrimp production is 5 billion pounds a year; the United States produces only about 300 to 400 million pounds a year.

Who are you calling shrimp? The word shrimp comes from the German schrumpfen, which translates ``to shrivel.'' That's what shrimp seem to do when cooked and the enemy is supposed to do when we call him or her a ``little shrimp.''

Size does matter: Shrimp is sold in numbered or sized counts per pound; ideally, all shrimp in a count are identical in size.

Colossal shrimp come 10 or fewer to the pound and are best used stuffed or for scampi.

Jumbo shrimp have 12 to 15 per pound and are good for broiling, stuffing or deep-frying.

Large shrimp are 16 to 35 per pound and are great on kebabs as well as impressive in appetizers and entrees.

Medium shrimp are 36 to 60 per pound and small are 61 to 100 per pound; both are good in casseroles, seafood cocktails and creamed dishes.

Small shrimp also are good in salads. Miniature or titi shrimp, 100 or more per pound, are used in open-faced sandwiches, canapes, soups and salads.

No shrimp on nutrition: Like most seafood, shrimp is about 78 percent water by weight. It contains about 18 percent protein and less than 1 percent fat. While shrimp is especially low in saturated fat, it is high in omega-3 fatty acids that are believed to lower blood cholesterol. But watch out for the cholesterol content.

Shrimp compared to other protein sources: Three ounces of shrimp have 166 milligrams cholesterol, .3 gram saturated fat; an egg yolk has 212 milligrams cholesterol, 1.6 grams saturated fat; and 3 ounces broiled chicken breast has 72 milligrams cholesterol and 1.1 grams saturated fat.

Shrimp also contain iron, B vitamins, potassium and other minerals.

Well-traveled shrimp: If you are sitting down to a plateful of shrimp, chances are it comes from one of the world's top 10 shrimp-producing countries: China, Indonesia, Thailand, Ecuador, India, the Philippines, Vietnam, Taiwan, Bangladesh or Colombia.

Turtle ties: Shrimp are caught in trawlnets often blamed for also catching sea turtles. But today, those nets are equipped with turtle excluder devices (TEDs) to keep turtles and fin fish from getting caught in them. These devices are 97 percent effective in releasing turtles from shrimp nets. The U.S. Coast Guard reports that most American shrimp boats are using the TEDs effectively. In addition, shrimp boats from Latin American countries in the Greater Caribbean also use the TEDs.

Farming shrimp: About a fifth of the world's shrimp supply comes from aquaculture. By the 21st century, it is predicted that more than a third of all shrimp eaten will be farm-raised.

Buy now/pay now: Shrimp is available year-round but is most expensive from January to May.

Shrimp tails: Usually only shrimp tails are sold; the heads are removed before they reach the market.

Shrimp types: There are cold-water and tropical shrimp. Tropical shrimp are further divided by shell color: white, brown, pink, red and striped (tiger).

Shrimp by any other name: The term ``prawn'' is often used to refer to large shrimp, but technically prawns are a bright pink European species. Prawns are what the French call langoustine and the Italians call scampi. But scampi also refers to a way of preparing shrimp that includes lots of butter and garlic.

Iodine isn't all bad: Large brown shrimp have an iodine flavor because of the plankton they feed upon. To rid shrimp of this natural flavor, soak the unshelled shrimp in a solution of 2 tablespoons baking soda dissolved in 1 quart cold water for 10 minutes. Drain and rinse thoroughly under cold running water before cooking. Little shrimp don't feed on the plankton so shouldn't smell of iodine. If they do, don't buy them.

To shell and devein shrimp: Starting at the large end of the shrimp, peel away the thin shell, unwinding it from around the tail. If the shrimp are to be deep-fried or if the recipe specifies, leave the tail fins on; otherwise, remove them.

To devein, make a shallow incision down the center back of the peeled shrimp with a small, sharp knife and pull out the dark vein running the length of the tail. Rinse away any broken bits of vein under cool running water. Not every shrimp will have a dark vein, but cut and rinse it anyway.

Butterflying: To butterfly shrimp, make an incision deeper than when deveining, cutting almost through to the underside of the shrimp. Spread the shrimp as flat as possible and pat dry. Shrimp are often butterflied before they are dipped in batter and deep-fried. This lessens the cooking time.

Start with shrimp, and you can end up with a dish of almost any international flavor - Italian, French, Mexican, Southwestern.

Offerings here include a pasta and shrimp dish with Southwestern accents, a simple shrimp kebab and a dish in which citrus juice ``cooks'' the shrimp - better known as ceviche. These are favorites of seafood cooking experts.

Giani Respinto, executive chef of the Grapevine Gourmet Shoppe in Plantation, Fla., offers his rich recipe for Linguine and Shrimp With Roasted Corn, Bacon and Black Bean Sauce. He says it's a popular item on the Grapevine's catering menu.

``People enjoy it because it's different - it's not just your basic scampi,'' he says. This is a ``fusion'' dish combining Italian, Southwestern, French and Mexican influences.

From Art Britto of the Fish Peddler East in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., we have Shrimp Kebabs. It's a recipe he's been able to rattle off the top of his head for the past 15 years. It came from his grandfather.

His family ran the Mansion Clam House in Westport, Conn., for more than 40 years, and the kebabs were a favorite entree there.

Bernd Asendorf of Studio One Cafe in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., offers his Ceviche-Style Spicy Shrimp. ``It's a little different from the usual shrimp cocktail or salad,'' he says. Serve it with some guacamole, flour tortillas and a margarita and you have a Southwestern meal. Add a loaf of crusty bread and a chilled Cotes du Rhone ``and there you are'' - it's a French meal, says Asendorf.

LINGUINE AND SHRIMP WITH ROASTED CORN,

BACON AND

BLACK BEAN SAUCE

This is an extremely rich - but tasty - dish. If you are watching your diet, you can use two or three diced tomatoes and omit the cream.

MARINATED SHRIMP:

1 (200 milliliter) bottle white tequila (about 3/4 cup)

1/4 cup fresh lime juice

1 jalapeno chile, seeded and minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon chopped cilantro

1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

LINGUINE WITH BEAN SAUCE:

2 ears fresh corn (see Note)

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon diced bacon

1 clove garlic, minced

1 can (15 ounces) black beans, drained and rinsed

1 ripe red Beefsteak tomato, diced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

1 pint whipping cream

Water

1 pound linguine

6 sprigs cilantro, for garnish

For marinated shrimp, combine all marinated shrimp ingredients except shrimp in a 1-gallon zip-seal plastic food bag or other nonreactive container. Remove 3 tablespoons of this marinade and set aside to use in sauce recipe.

Add shrimp to remaining marinade, seal bag and toss to coat, or toss shrimp in remaining marinade and cover container. Marinate shrimp at least 1 hour but no longer than 3 hours or acid in lime juice will begin to ``cook'' shrimp.

For linguine with bean sauce, roast corn with husks in preheated 400-degree oven 10 minutes. When cool enough to handle, husk corn and remove corn kernels from cobs with a sharp knife; set aside.

Remove shrimp from marinade. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add bacon and garlic. Saute until garlic is lightly browned. Add shrimp and cook 5 minutes or until opaque. Remove shrimp from skillet and set aside.

Add corn, beans, tomatoes, thyme, salt and pepper plus 3 tablespoons reserved marinade. Cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Then add cream and simmer about 30 minutes or until sauce is reduced by one-third. Return shrimp to skillet and cook until shrimp are heated through.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat, add linguine and cook 8 minutes or until al dente. Drain.

Toss shrimp mixture with pasta. Serve garnished with cilantro. Makes 6 to 8 servings

NOTE: If fresh corn is unavailable or to save time, use 1 1/2 cups drained canned corn or frozen corn. Do not roast.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 577 calories; 24 grams protein; 27 grams fat; 57 grams carbohydrate; 174 milligrams cholesterol; 166 milligrams sodium.

Recipe adapted from a dish by Giani Respinto dish, executive chef of the Grapevine Gourmet Shoppe, Plantation, Fla.

FISH PEDDLER SHRIMP KEBABS

To turn these appetizer kebabs into a complete meal, add vegetables to the skewers - white onions, bell peppers, celery, zucchini, mushrooms, carrots, cherry tomatoes. Marinate the vegetables along with the shrimp.

1/4 cup pure olive oil

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cloves garlic, minced

Pinch fresh ground black pepper

1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined with tails left intact

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro OR parsley

Combine all ingredients except shrimp and cilantro in a nonreactive container or 1-gallon zip-seal plastic food bag. Stir or seal bag and toss to combine ingredients into a marinade. Add shrimp and stir or toss to coat with marinade. Refrigerate 1 hour.

Meanwhile, soak 16 (6-inch) bamboo skewers in water 20 minutes.

Drain shrimp from marinade and thread 2 onto each skewer. Grill over hot coals about 5 minutes or until shrimp are opaque. Or place on a baking sheet and bake in preheated 350-degree oven 15 minutes or until shrimp are opaque.

Sprinkle with cilantro and serve. Makes 16 skewers.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 38 calories; 6 grams protein; 1 gram fat; .31 gram carbohydrate; 43 milligrams cholesterol; 76 milligrams sodium.

Recipe adapted from a dish by Art Britto at The Fish Peddler East, Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

STUDIO ONE CAFE'S CEVICHE-STYLE

SPICY SHRIMP

SHRIMP MARINADE:

2 limes 

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 garlic clove, finely minced

1/2 teaspoon dry English mustard

1/2 serrano chile, seeded and minced

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro

Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

Cayenne pepper to taste

SHRIMP COCKTAIL:

Water

1/2 pound colossal OR jumbo shrimp, shelled and deveined

1/2 pound medium OR small shrimp, shelled and deveined

1/4 red onion, thinly sliced

1 red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and diced (see Note)

Cilantro, for garnish

For shrimp marinade, slice 1 lime very thinly and squeeze juice from other. Combine lime slices, juice and remaining shrimp marinade ingredients in a large nonreactive container; stir to combine. Or place in a 1-gallon zip-seal plastic food bag. Seal and toss bag to combine ingredients.

For shrimp cocktail, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add shrimp and cook 2 minutes or until shrimp are opaque and pink. (If shrimp are of very different sizes, you may want to cook different sizes separately so they don't overcook or add smaller shrimp after larger ones have cooked for about 1 minute or so.)

Drain shrimp and plunge in ice water; drain again. Add to marinade along with red onions and bell peppers. Toss with marinade or add to plastic food bag, seal and toss to coat. Refrigerate at least 2 hours but no more than 3 hours.

Serve in a glass bowl garnished with cilantro. Makes 6 appetizer servings; 4 lunch entree servings.

NOTE: To roast and peel bell pepper, cut in half and remove stem and seeds. Place cut side down on a baking sheet. In preheated broiler, place pepper as close to heating element as possible. Broil about 10 minutes or until skin is blistered and charred. Place in a zipper plastic food bag or paper bag about 10 minutes. Then use a small knife to lift off skin.

NUTRITION INFORMATION PER SERVING: 206 calories; 24 grams protein; 9 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrate; 172 milligrams cholesterol; 170 milligrams sodium.

Recipe from Bernd Asendorf of Studio One Cafe, Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: (Color) In 1994, Americans ate 2.6 pounds of shrimpper person. Tantalize the taste buds with shrimp and linguine, flavored with roasted corn, bacon and black bean sauce.

Sean Dougherty/Fort Lauderdale Sun-Sentinel