ALL THAT GLITTERS; `MIDSUMMER NIGHT'S DREAM' BRINGS OUT ETHEREAL BEAUTY.

Byline: Barbara De Witt Daily News Fashion Editor

It wasn't just a pinch of fairy dust.

The fairies in ``William Shakespeare's A Midsummer Night's Dream,'' which opened in theaters Friday, are rolling in the glittery stuff.

It's everywhere, from the strands of their hair to their makeup and clothing, creating a fantasy world for mere mortals, and also providing a blueprint for modern day makeup mavens.

The idea of natural, dewy makeup with a golden glow and pink lipstick was introduced earlier in the year by trend-setting manufacturers such as Chanel and Yves St. Laurent, but cosmetic experts like Bobbi Brown think the new film gave it fashion credibility for the masses.

The makeup artist-to-the-stars and author of ``Bobbi Brown Beauty'' (HarperCollins; $30), Brown says, ``Sheer clothes are bringing the angelic look back into focus and the mood is ethereal, romantic and innocent. It's already been seen in Europe and we can expect it to stay in the U.S. past summer and into fall.''

So, get out the glitter.

According to ``Midsummer'' producer Leslie Urdang, ``We all got into the glitter, flowers and jewels worn by the actors and woke up with it in our beds.''

And she's still having trouble getting the glitter out of her hair.

``We felt like we were in a dream making the movie, as it has so much to do with beauty as an element. I think magic is always important to believe in and look for, and yes, I definitely believe in fairies after this film,'' she said.

On the subject of makeup magic, artist Ronnie Specter designed the look for Shakespeare's fairy queen Titania, played by Michelle Pfeiffer, and then created an entire ``Midsummer Night's'' collection for Max Factor, based on the products she used in the film.

Although she has done Pfeiffer's makeup in numerous movies, she thinks fantasy makeup is the most fun because it often inspires trends and creates icons.

``Remember Elizabeth Taylor's eyeliner in `Cleopatra'? She must have liked it because she kept it for years,'' noted Specter.

For ``Midsummer Night's Dream'' it was an entirely different mood and era.

Said Specter, ``I envisioned Queen Titania with skin looking like moonlight, cheeks the color of a rosy camellia and a shimmer of silver, white and gold on her eyes.''

To inspire Specter and the film's overall makeup director, Paul Engelen (who also did the makeup on ``Star Wars: Episode I - The Phantom Menace''), director/screenwriter/producer Michael Hoffman turned to the magic, sensuality and love of nature that the Etruscans were known for in 800 B.C. Italy.

According to Urdang, ``The idea of vanity was apparent in the Etruscan world, and women and men used reflective glass in their hair and clothes, constantly looking at themselves. We expanded on this and stretched it, having the fairies steal the reflective items from the real world, using it for themselves as ornaments.''

Other inspirations for the film came from the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood of artists (founded in 1848), who admired the simple style of Italian artists, as well as the exotic eroticism of painter Gustave Moreau, who often painted mythological subjects onto his jewel-toned canvas.

While looking at the art, Specter said she focused on the figures' alabaster skin, lips like ripe fruit, and pink-stained cheeks. However, she also received fabric swatches of the clothing, which she called very diaphanous and sheer, to get her in the mood.

``Then I worked to find a blend of fantasy and nature. And Michelle loved it, saying it was great fun for her and that she got lots of compliments,'' she said.

To get those fairy effects, Specter spent a lot of time mixing and layering shimmery powders and colors with various products to create what she calls a shimmer stick that can be rubbed over the body to make the skin glisten without looking opaque and overdone. It worked so well that Specter included it in her Max Factor line that's available in drug stores.

The Valley-based makeup artist said she also applied a lot of individual eyelashes to Pfeiffer's eyes, but added that women can get a similar effect with numerous coats of mascara on curled lashes. ``Just don't use thick eyeliner, as it's too heavy and too dramatic-looking,'' she cautioned.

Next, she put gold gloss over Pfeiffer's pink-rose lip color for extra shimmer because gold is the color of the sun, which fit in with the nature theme of that era. And for a hint of fairy dust on her nails, she added Max Factor's Leading Lady sheer nail polish that has opalescent pink shot through it. ``It's really pretty - but subtle. Even my mom wears it,'' said Specter.

But overall, she thinks the makeup is appealing because it's so neutral.

``Unlike the matte makeup and dark lips we've seen so much of in the '90s, this makeup is golden and yet translucent ... almost dewy ... so women of all ages and skin types can wear it for a healthy glow. Besides, it's fun,'' says Specter, who credits its ethereal appeal to modern technology.

When frosted makeup first appeared on the scene in the early '60s, it was made with fish scales instead of the current formula that includes mica, and the whole effect was so heavy and opaque that it had a garish glow. Plus, the frosted stuff usually settled in all the fine lines around the face, which made many women look older, she added.

Women who are worried that crows' feet will keep them out of the beauty loop should apply glitter sparingly, perhaps over the cheekbone and under the brow bone, said Specter. She also suggested using eye shadow before adding the glitter to create depth. And instead of brushing on the glitter, use your finger, she advised, pressing the powder into your lid.

Ditto with the lips. Use lipstick, then a dab of glitter in the center of your lips for a fairylike pout.

A final word of caution: ``Just because we've talked about moonlight and alabaster skin, don't choose a foundation that's more than one shade lighter than your natural complexion, even if it's olive or darker, because you'll end up with a gray cast. Besides, darker skins are great with sheer gold tones and purple liner instead of black.''

TITANIA TIP SHEET

To look like the queen of the fairies, or just one of the golden girls in Shakespeare's woods, you'll need to get in costume. Here's a checklist to get you started:

Apply translucent makeup with a golden glow, adding sheer glittery pink to eyes, cheeks and nails.

Flowing hair (consider hair extensions) accented with glitter, jewels and flowers.

Diaphanous clothing that's as light and reflective as the wings of a butterfly or dragonfly (which are really fairies in disguise).

Sheer, shimmery metallic fabrics in blues, pale greens, golds and white.

Goddess styles with empire waists, low necklines and loosely capped sleeves.

Dainty or dramatic (but always feminine) sandals in neutral metallic shades.

Minimal traditional jewelry. Consider long shoulder-grazing earrings with golden leaves, a nature-themed tiara or headdress.

- Barbara De Witt

CAPTION(S):

4 Photos, Box

Photo: (1--2--Cover--Color) A pinch of fairy dust

`Midsummer` makeup for mere mortals

(3--Color) Makeup inspired by the Etruscans' love of magic and nature adds to the erotic beauty of Fox Searchlight's new film, ``William Shakespeare's A Midsummer Night's Dream,'' which opened citywide Friday.

(4--Color) The newest production of ``A Midsummer Night's Dream'' has given wings to sparkly fairy makeup that's now available in stores. Max Factor's ``Midsummer Night's Dream'' collection, designed by Valley makeup artist Ronnie Specter, is based on the makeup she created for Michelle Pfeiffer's fairy queen Titania.

Michael Owen Baker/Daily News

Box: TITANIA TIP SHEET (See text)