ALL FIRED UP GET PASSIONATE ABOUT LEARNING BARBECUING BASICS.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Shine up that grill.

It's time to get ready for some sizzle, smoke and spice with juicy, flavorful steaks, ribs and burgers, awesome vegetables and delicious desserts.

With Memorial Day festivities just around the corner, more than 70 percent of Americans are expected to fire up their grills. And although grilling is a favorite pastime, Americans could use a little help. According to a finding in this year's just-released annual Weber GrillWatch survey, ``The majority of Americans (66 percent) still rate their skills as average,'' notes Sherry Bale, public relations director at Weber Stephen Products Co. in Illinois.

With conflicting information from various sources, grilling can be confusing because there is no one right way to do it. ``Grilling is such a personal experience. I think people should learn the basics,'' Bale says.

The survey also revealed a third of grillers admitted undercooking or overcooking grilled foods -- and nearly half decide when to remove the food from the grill by cutting into it, a major no-no, as juices and flavor escape.

``What separates the master grillers from the masses is knowing how the fire can flavor the food and knowing the kind of heat that is right for fish, vegetables and meat,'' says Jamie Purviance, chef and author of the ``Weber's Real Grilling'' cookbook.

``Grilling is cooking something with very intense, high heat with the purpose of making it brown and imparting a good deal of flavor,'' says David Kamen, associate professor of culinary arts at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y.

It's all about the smokiness and caramelization of foods, adds Bale.

Speaking about the new ``The Culinary Institute of America: Grilling'' cookbook (Lebhar-Friedman Books; $35), Kamen notes that the 175 recipes (and 100 color photos) go beyond the basics -- and include ideas for grilling quail, game hens, baby octopus, rabbit, swordfish, pineapple, pound cake, a banana split and much more.

``The biggest faux pas about barbecuing is pressing something with a spatula while cooking. Don't press a hamburger, etc. because it squeezes out all the juices. And the biggest myth is that when you sear something on the grill, you're locking in the juices. You're not -- you're actually contributing to more juice loss,'' he points out. ``(But) searing is good because you get a lot of flavor and texture from it.''

Beyond a grill, you need very little to grill properly, notes Santa Fe resident Cheryl Jamison, co-author with husband Bill Jamison of ``The Big Book of Outdoor Cooking & Entertaining'' (William Morrow; $24.95), their sixth outdoor cookbook among the dozen they've written.

Their volume is packed with 850 recipes, along with good tips and advice for casual entertaining.

Also necessary, says Cheryl, are a pair of strong spring-loaded tongs or kitchen tongs (barbecue tongs are too clumsy and large) along with a sturdy spatula. ``Don't use a fork, as you'll puncture the food and some of the juices will run.''

When grilling, pay attention while having fun. ``A lot of people go outside and forget they're cooking,'' she says. ``You can't decide the food is done when you're finished drinking your beer.''

If you're fond of Asian cuisine and want to explore and impart some of those flavors to your grilling repertoire, turn to ``The Asian Grill'' by Corinne Trang (Chronicle Books; $22.95), a French native who's been exposed to Chinese, Cambodian, French and Vietnamese food. In this, her third cookbook, filled with 100 recipes and some color photos, Trang hopes to demystify Asian ingredients, most of which are readily available in supermarkets. ``I've borrowed from a lot of different Asian food cultures and created something authentic but more approachable and doable.'' Anyone for an Asian clam bake or spicy Thai basil and lime marinated jumbo shrimp?

Karen Adler and Judith Fertig advise making the most of your time at the grill by cooking more food -- chicken breasts, steaks, vegetables, shellfish -- than you need for a single meal. Wrap up and refrigerate the leftovers to use in a second meal -- in a salad, soup or sandwich -- to save time. You'll find more than 100 recipes in their latest cookbook (they've written 20 between them), ``Weeknight Grilling With the BBQ Queens'' (Harvard Common Press; $14.95).

So light the fire -- and get grillin'.

Natalie Haughton, [phone]

natalie.haughton(at)dailynews.com

Here are some grill tips from the experts:

Lid up or down? While some outdoor cooking experts grill with the lid up, others (including the Weber grill folks) keep the lid down, unless a recipe instructs otherwise. This allows heat to circulate, traps the smoke, cooks food evenly and avoids flare-ups. Experiment and suit yourself.

To salt or not? The experts we interviewed all salt before grilling, using kosher or sea salt (not regular table salt, as it contains anti-caking agents). That's because the salt tends to penetrate the food while cooking and brings out the flavor. While some say salt draws off moisture, which it does in very small part, it's worth the sacrifice for the better flavor result, notes one expert.

Gas or charcoal? Both have their fans. Some contend you get more flavor from burning charcoal. While gas grills continue to be the most popular type of outdoor grill in the U.S. (66 percent), charcoal ownership increased to 49 percent in 2005 up from 42 percent in 2003. Consumers who own both gas and charcoal grills tend to use gas more often.

While different kinds of wood chips are touted as giving off different flavors, smoky is smoky -- and once the food is cooked, it's hard to tell what kind of wood chips have been used, point out experts.

To minimize flare-ups, trim excess fat from steaks and chops and avoid using oily marinades.

When cooking, be sure your grill is at least 10 feet from any building.

To take the guesswork out of grilling, use a thermometer and timer. Remember that cooking times in recipes and charts are approximate and should serve as as guidelines. So, check food often to avoid overcooking and disappointment. If grilling food directly from the refrigerator, you may need to increase the cooking time a little.

Don't leave the grill unattended.

If using barbecue sauces during grilling, brush on during the last five minutes of cooking time to avoid burning.

Clean the grill rack after each grilling session and again before grilling the next time.

If your grill doesn't have a built-in thermometer, use the hand test to check how hot it is. Hold your hand, palm down, over the heat source just above the grill rack and count how many seconds it takes before you have to pull you hand away. If it takes 2 seconds, the fire is high; 3 to 4 seconds, the fire is medium; 5 to 6 seconds, the heat is in the low range.

If something necessitates grilling on foil, consider using Reynolds Grill Foil, which has a nonstick coating on one side and holes in the foil.

Use tongs and off-set spatulas to turn foods, not forks (which pierce the food), to avoid losing juices.

Dry rubs give the boldest amount of flavor in the shortest time.

Oil the cooking grate quickly (no dripping oil) using paper towels or a brush just before adding the food. Or use Pam for Grilling (spray it on the cold cooking grate), which is specially formulated for superhigh heat, recommends Cheryl Jamison.

When marinating, use glass or ceramic containers or heavy-duty zip-top plastic bags. Avoid cast-iron or aluminum containers, which will react with acidic ingredients. Discard any leftover marinades that have come in contact with raw foods -- meats, poultry, etc. -- to destroy any bacteria that forms.

-- N.H.

How to buy a better barbecue

If you're in the market for a gas grill, no matter what size, pick up the June issue of Consumer Reports and turn to ``Gas Grills: Spend Less, Get More.'' It covers how to choose a grill, along with features that count.

``While you could easily pay more than $1,000 (for a grill), our tests show that spending more than $500 rarely buys better grilling,'' reports the magazine. A Vermont Castings grill (VM400XBP) with a score of 84 and priced at $400 (available at Home Depot) was the magazine's top pick and best buy for a midsize gas grill. The best small, portable grill was the Weber Q with a score of 82 and a retail price of $180.

When it comes to stainless-steel grills, be aware that not all stainless is created equal, notes Sherry Bale, a spokeswoman for Weber Stephen Products Co., adding that the grade can greatly affect a grill's life. Lower-grade stainless steel is susceptible to corrosion and rust, while higher-grade stainless steel, like that used in all Weber grills, is adverse to these maladies. ``A whopping 69 percent of Americans say they are not aware of the different grades of stainless steel,'' she notes. If you're shopping for a stainless-steel grill, take a magnet (from the fridge). If it sticks to the grill, don't buy it, advises Bale. ``The magnet will not stick to the higher-grade stainless steel.''

Also look for grills with inverted V bars (Weber introduced these Flavorizer Bars in the '80s, but the patent expired a few years ago) because you get more flavor with them, and they cook more evenly, she points out.

-- Natalie Haughton

BLEU CHEESE AND BACON-STUFFED BURGERS

BLEU CHEESE BUTTER:

4 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons bleu cheese crumbles

BACON-STUFFED BURGERS:

1 1/2 pounds lean ground beef

1/2 cup bleu cheese crumbles

1/4 cup real cooked bacon pieces

1 tablespoon Montreal Steak Seasoning

Salt and ground black pepper

Onion rolls, toasted

Lettuce, tomato slices and onion slices

Avocado slices

For Bleu Cheese Butter, in a small bowl, mash together butter and 2 tablespoons bleu cheese crumbles with a fork; set aside.

Set up grill for direct cooking over high heat. Oil grate when ready to start cooking.

For Bacon-Stuffed Burgers, in a large bowl, combine ground beef, 1/2 cup bleu cheese crumbles, bacon pieces and steak seasoning. Form into 4 patties slightly larger than the rolls. (Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate if not cooking immediately.)

Season burgers with salt and pepper. Place on hot, oiled grill. Cook 4 to 5 minutes per side for medium (160 degrees F).

Spread toasted onion rolls with Bleu Cheese Butter. Serve hot burgers on rolls with lettuce, tomato and onion. Top with avocado slices.

Makes 4 servings

From ``Sandra Lee Semi-Homemade Grilling,'' by Sandra Lee.

GRILLED SHRIMP ROMESCO

ROMESCO SAUCE:

1 (4-ounce) jar piquillo peppers, with their juice, or pimientos, preferably fire-roasted, with their juice, plus 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

1 red-ripe plum tomato

1 slice chewy country bread, toasted OR grilled and torn into several pieces

1/4 cup slivered salted almonds, Marcona if available

1 tablespoon hot paprika, preferably Spanish

2 plump garlic cloves

2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

3/4 teaspoon coarse salt, either kosher OR sea salt, OR more to taste

6 to 8 tablespoons flavorful olive oil

2 pounds medium to large shrimp (about 30 per pound), peeled and deveined

Prepare Romesco Sauce. Place piquillos and juice, tomato, bread, almonds, paprika, garlic, vinegars and salt in a food processor. Add 1 tablespoon warm water and process until a thick puree forms. With motor running, pour in enough oil to make a smooth and easily spoonable sauce. Let sauce stand at room temperature at least 1 hour or cover and refrigerate up to several weeks.

Toss shrimp with 1/2 of Romesco Sauce and let stand at room temperature. Spoon rest of sauce into a small bowl and reserve it. (Chill if not using within an hour.)

Fire up grill, bringing temperature to high (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test). Arrange a small-mesh grill rack over the grate and oil it well.

Grill shrimp uncovered on rack for about 2 minutes per side, turning once. The shrimp are done when opaque, pink/white, and just firm with a few lightly browned edges. Serve hot or chilled with the bowl of sauce.

Makes 6 servings

From ``The Big Book of Outdoor Cooking & Entertaining,'' by Cheryl and Bill Jamison.

CHICKEN SATAY 

1 cup unsweetened coconut milk

1 tablespoon palm sugar OR granulated sugar

1 teaspoon ground coriander 

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric 

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 

2 to 3 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts, cut against the grain into 1/8-inch-thick slices OR 24 jumbo tiger shrimp

12 long bamboo skewers

Spicy Peanut Sauce for dipping

In a small bowl, whisk together coconut milk, sugar, coriander, turmeric and cumin until well incorporated and sugar is completely dissolved.

Put chicken and marinade in a resealable gallon plastic bag. Squeezing out air, seal bag. Holding on to ends, shake bag to coat pieces evenly with marinade. Refrigerate 2 hours, turning occasionally to redistribute marinade.

Soak bamboo skewers in water 30 minutes. Meanwhile prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill to 500 degrees F (high). Thread 4 to 6 pieces of chicken on each skewer. Grill chicken skewers, turning pieces frequently to prevent burning, until crisp, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Serve with Spicy Peanut Sauce for dipping.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

SPICY PEANUT SAUCE: In a saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil over medium heat. Add 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons red curry paste and stir-fry until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon shrimp paste and continue to stir-fry until shrimp paste is broken up and one shade darker, about 1 minute. Add 1 1/2 cups unsalted roasted peanuts, finely ground, and stir, roasting until two shades darker but not burnt, 8 to 10 minutes. Add 1/4 cup palm sugar or granulated sugar and continue to stir-fry until sugar is dissolved and starts to caramelize, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 2 cups unsweetened coconut milk, 2 cups chicken broth, 1/2 cup tamarind concentrate (available in Asian markets) and 3 tablespoons hoisin sauce. Reduce heat to low and simmer sauce until slightly thickened (look for a creme anglaise consistency), about 30 minutes. By that time, the natural oils from the peanuts should have surfaced. Turn off the heat and add 1/2 cup minced, packed fresh Thai basil leaves and 1/2 cup minced, packed fresh cilantro leaves. Cover and let cool. Store in refrigerator up to 3 days. Makes about 5 cups.

From ``The Asian Grill,'' by Corinne Trang.

M1A1 MAIN BATTLE STEAKS

MARINADE:

1/3 cup steak seasoning

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons steak sauce

1 1/2 tablespoons bourbon

STEAK:

4 flatiron steaks, about 8 ounces EACH and 1/2 inch thick

2 tablespoons spicy brown mustard 

2 cups hickory chips, soaked in water at least 30 minutes

BUTTER:

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, softened

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning

1/4 teaspoon granulated onion

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

RUB:

2 teaspoons seasoned salt

1 teaspoon granulated onion

1 teaspoon granulated garlic

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

In a medium bowl, combine all Marinade ingredients. Put steaks in a large, resealable plastic bag and pour in marinade. Marinate at room temperature 20 to 30 minutes.

In a medium bowl, combine Butter ingredients and mash with back of a fork to distribute seasoning evenly. Set aside at room temperature.

In a small bowl mix Rub ingredients. Remove steaks from bag and discard marinade. Spread mustard over both sides of steaks. Season evenly with rub.

Drain hickory chips and scatter on coals (or, if using a gas grill, place them in a smoker box).

With lid closed, sear the steaks over direct medium heat (400 degrees to 450 degrees F) 1 minute on each side. Then grill steaks over indirect medium heat until cooked to desired doneness, 4 to 5 minutes for medium-rare, turning once. Remove from grill and let rest 2 to 3 minutes before cutting into 1/4-inch slices. Smear topside with butter mixture. Serve warm.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

From ``Weber Presents: Command of the Grill, A Salute to Steak.''

GRILLED POUND CAKE

1 (8-inch long) baked pound cake loaf (homemade OR store-bought), cut into 1-inch-thick slices

1 cup Coffee Ganache 

1 cup whipped cream OR vanilla ice cream

1 cup coarse-chopped toasted hazelnuts

Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until coals are glowing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread coals in an even bed. Clean cooking grate.

Grill pound cake slices until well marked on both sides of each slice and cake is warmed throughout, about 3 to 4 minutes on each side.

Serve grilled cake topped with Coffee Ganache, whipped cream or ice cream, and toasted hazelnuts.

Makes 8 servings

COFFEE GANACHE: Stir together 2 tablespoons powdered instant espresso and 1/4 cup boiling water until smooth. Set aside. Combine 1 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream and 2 tablespoons light corn syrup in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Remove pan from heat and stir in espresso. Pour mixture over 2 2/3 cups finely chopped dark chocolate and let stand, covered, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir until chocolate has completely melted and sauce is very smooth. Keep warm until ready to use, or let cool to room temperature and store in a container with a tight-fitting lid in refrigerator up to 2 weeks. Reheat chilled sauce over very low heat on the stovetop or in microwave until warm enough to pour easily. Makes 3 cups.

From ``The Culinary Institute of America: Grilling.''

CAPTION(S):

10 photos, 2 boxes

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) HOT STUFF!

Juicy tips for Memorial Day barbecuing

Photo by Food Image Source from ``The Big Book of Outdoor Cooking & Entertaining,'' William Morrow

(2 -- color) GRILLED POUND CAKE

Photo by Ben Fink from ``The Culinary Institute of America: Grilling'' (Lebhar-Friedman Books)

(3 -- color) BLEU CHEESE AND BACON-STUFFED BURGERS, ABOVE.

From ``Sandra Lee Semi-Homemade Grilling,'' Meredith Books

(4 -- color) CHICKEN/SHRIMP SATAY, LEFT

From ``The Asian Grill,'' Chronicle Books

(5 -- color) M1A1 MAIN BATTLE STEAKS

(6 -- 9 -- color) no caption (grilling items)

(10 -- color) no caption (barbecue)

Box:

(1) GRILLING TIPS FROM THE EXPERTS (see text)

(2) How to buy a better barbecue (see text)