AGOURA BISTRO: COMFORT FARE, WITH FLAIR.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

Moving away from Italian, but not completely, the former Milano II West in Agoura Hills continues as a comfortable, spacious restaurant and bar with a new name, Agoura Bistro, and a new compact menu of familiar comfort fare.

Easy to get to, near the Reyes Adobe off-ramp of the Ventura (101) Freeway, the Agoura Bistro's expansive dining room maintains its woody, brown-toned, clubby looks, complete with white linen, sparkling glassware and a number of deep, impressive-looking booths.

There's obviously a concerted effort in the kitchen to present every dish as handsomely as possible, helped no end by using large, modern, white ware on which food is arranged with artistry and care.

From 18 menu items tried during review visits, only two failed to impress -- a pretty good average.

Otherwise, in a couple of minor glitches, one steak, a 3/4-pound New York ($19), came up more medium than medium-rare one evening. And the pepper-crusted Atlantic salmon ($15) that was somewhat overcooked at the first attempt was redone without hesitation and proved to be absolutely perfect the second time around.

Take note that with two other steak-involved dishes, one featuring a center-cut Angus filet mignon ($20) and the other a mixed grill with a petite filet partnered with breast of chicken and shrimp ($18), both cuts arrived exactly as ordered, reddish-pink inside, respectably flavorful, juicy and tender.

Evidently, if a steak is preferred here, filet mignon seems to be the more reliable pick.

But to its credit, preparation, accompaniments and presentation seem to be more important in the Agoura Bistro kitchen than from many encountered of late, meaning there's more to life than everyday broccoli and mashed potatoes.

Notably, the salmon here comes with good sauteed spinach, pearl onions and a garlicky cream sauce.

And the New York is plated with grilled eggplant, fluffy tempura-battered onion rings and a tomato chutney enhanced with 25-year-old balsamic vinegar.

That preferred filet is delivered with carefully cross-stacked sticks of grilled polenta, a red pepper coulis and cilantro oil.

Neatly cut, thick round slices of free-range breast of chicken ($15) come forth stuffed with prosciutto, Gorgonzola cheese and basil, lined up neatly, perched in a Sterling merlot reduction and accompanied by distinctive sour-cream mashers.

An almost soupy offering of homey braised lamb shank ($17) with cannellini beans had an unusually spicy ``hearty Provencal'' sauce one night that I personally enjoyed, though some might call it too peppery and more ``hearty Southwest'' in flavor.

And one of two regular soups here, a tomato-basil bisque ($5) completely overshadowed the alternative clam chowder ($6) option that was oversalted.

Meanwhile, I'd pass on a gnocchi dish ($12) that arrived made up of hard, pasty little potato flour dumplings that lacked any puffiness even though they had a pretty decent savory sage and mushroom quality to them.

Starters include passable salads ($8 to $12), and the most agreeable Agoura Bistro dessert is its version of a chocolate voodoo cake ($6) with a swirl or two of strawberry sauce.

Evidently, it takes a little voodoo to get rid of the Milano ghosts.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

AGOURA BISTRO

Food: Three stars - Service: Three stars - Wine: Two and one half star

Where: 30315 Canwood St., Agoura Hills.

Phone: [phone].

Meals/hours: Open for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. nightly.

Food type: Modern continental.

Cost: Starters from $5 to $9, pastas and entrees from $12 to $20, desserts $6 each.

Credit cards: All major.

Patio dining: Yes.

Parking/valet: Free parking in lot. No valet.

Full bar: Yes.

Wine/corkage: Reasonably good wine selection. Wine options by the glass better than average. No big surprises. Corkage: $12.

Music/entertainment: Not at present, but planned for future.

Takeout/delivery: Yes on takeout. No on delivery.

Reservations: Helpful, especially on weekends.

CAPTION(S):

2 photos

Photo:

(1 -- 2) Agoura Bistro executive chief Domenick Medina presents some of his menu offerings, including a center cut filet mignon with polenta sticks, sweet red pepper coulis and cilantro, below.

Joel P. Lugavere/Special to the Daily News