A well-kept secret: quaint Tlaxcala offers enchanting escape.

I have heard both Morelos and Tlaxcala lay claim to being Mexico's smallest state. It seems Tlaxcala wins the title, and shares with its diminutive size a tiny reputation in comparison to that of its much-publicized sister state to the south.

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Cuernavaca--the capital of Morelos--has been a favorite getaway from Mexico City since before the Conquest. Tlaxcala--just two hours to the northeast of the D.F.--is quite another matter.

A minority who patronize the fiesta brava might know the state has a grand old tradition of breeding fighting bulls, known here as toros de lidia.

A small cluster of archaeology buffs may have heard of the outstanding murals at Cacaxtla, which happens to be within the Tlaxcala state border.

Those with a passion for regional fiestas, like myself, might link Tlaxcala to strange mustachioed masks, crazy plumed hats and colorful costumes--characteristic of the state's splendid Carnival (late February) in which over 4,000 folk dancers join together from different villages.

But many people are still not really sure where Tlaxcala is, whether it is a state or town or both (it's both), let alone what they might find should they go there.

HISTORICAL SECRETS

From the point of view of tourism promotion, it is a secret too well kept. But at the same time, one soon senses those in the know rather like Tlaxcala just as it is--unspoiled landscape criss-crossed with dirt roads the rich red color of tezontle.

"We have more than 1,000 archeological sites, with seven excavated and four open to the public," says Domingo Galaviz, the state's director of tourism promotion. "And we have 140 haciendas, some in ruins, some halfway restored, and some perfect for visitors."

But of the tourists who visit the state's colonial gems, such as the ornate boudoir of Our Lady of Ocotlan or the glistening altarpiece in the shrine of Santa Cruz, 95 percent are national, many from neighboring Puebla state.

"The foreigners who come are mostly German, French and Swiss," Galaviz says, "and history is what brings them."

Fortunately, Tlaxcala's history is as visible as it is rich and intriguing.

A PLEASANT WALKING TOUR

The colonial city has more than enough attractions for an overnight stay at any time of the year (see www.tlaxcala.gob.mx/turismo). The first history lesson, bright and intriguing, starts with 450 square meters of vibrant murals in the 16th and 19th century Palacio Municipal (government building) located on the Zocalo, also called the Plaza de la Constitucion.

Tlaxcala's greatest claim to fame outside its borders lies in its role in the Spanish Conquest of Mexico: Historians teach that without the support of the Tlaxcalans, Cortes and his conquistadors would not have defeated the Aztecs in the 1521 battle of Tenochtitlan.

The murals, painted by local artist Desiderio Hernandez Xochitiotzin, help illustrate how the Aztecs were already great enemies of Tlaxcala, holding the city under siege for 60 years and staging wars merely to capture victims for human sacrifices.

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A tour (contact the tourist office at: 01-246 465 0960) is well worth it to complete the information.

Next, walk through Xicotencatl Square up a pretty cobbled incline called Avenida San Francisco to the Franciscan convent-turned-cathedral, passing Tlaxcala's small bullring, which seats only 2,500 people. Some of the cathedral's paintings are being restored in a side room to the right and, if you are lucky, you may find someone who can give you an explanation of the treasures inside--from the 17th century altarpiece in Solomonic baroque style, and the carved cedarwood ceiling.

On the way back to the Zocalo, shady with ash trees, you will pass a good quality gift shop to your left, which is well worth a browse. Tlaxcala is known for its handicrafts fashioned out of barro rojo (red clay), as well as painted, wooden walking sticks.

At the portales (the archways lining the square), the well-kept Hidalgo Arcade dates to the 16th century and houses the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall, open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.). Here you can glance at photographs of old Tlaxcala, and wander around the gardens at the back that were once connected with the outer world by tram.

Next to the Ayuntamiento, the Libros y Arte bookshop has a small English-language section and children's books as well as tomes of local interest and history.

A TREAT FOR THE PALATE

Regional fare can be tasted at Restaurant Los Portales without making much of a dent in your wallet. Go through to the back of the restaurant called El Traspatio for more typical decor (bull heads, of course) and a warm welcome.

Recommended dishes are sopa de habas con nopal (broad bean soup flavored with prickly pear slivers), Pollo Tocotlan and the classic Mixiote de Carnero (steamed lamb in a rich red tomato and chili sauce--tasty, but not spicy).

For romantics, or those shy of unfamiliar dishes, there is an upscale restaurant nearby called "La Casa de Los Naranjos," tastefully decorated with straw on its outer patio and adorned with still life works (a genre called "pinturas de bodegon") by well-known Tlaxcalan painter, Armando Arhuatzin.

Those sensitive to language will have noticed that both painters mentioned have pre-Hispanic surnames, quite common in Tlaxcala where people were allowed to retain their original names after the Conquest as part of a short-lived reward by the Spanish for their help in battle. Those who want to know more might like to look up the book "El Lexema y Morfema Nahuatl en Apellidos de Tlaxcala" in the bookshop Huytlale (Av. Juarez #7, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.).

A little further on, visitors will find the delightful Teatro Xicotencatl (Av. Juarez 21, tel: [phone]), which boasts a beautiful ceiling painted with muses. The 250-seat theater has been used for circuses, cockfights and, more recently, filming part of "El Pecado Original" (as it was known here), with Antonio Banderas and Angelina Jolie. It still has shows, for grown-ups and kids, on weekend afternoons.

Just over a mile outside the historic center, the Basilica of Our Lady of Ocotlan is one of the city's greatest treasures--on the site of the former pyramid to Xochiquetzalli, goddess of fertility. Keep an eye out for the choir window, religious sculptures, twin towers decorated with vine motifs, and an opulent altarpiece lush with lilies, pomegranates and shells.

RELATED ARTICLE: Other Adventure Options

* A day's horseriding to "Punta Grande" (6-8 hours, up to 10 people) features breathtaking vistas and includes a cook-up picnic.

* Visits to haciendas, large estates with mansions, chapels, lakes, fields of bulls, stables, collections of antique furniture and horseback tours of the lands.

* The archaeological site of Cacaxtla boasts splendid polychromatic ruins thought to be the work of the Olmec-Xicalanca people. And at adjacent Xochitecatl, which is older, an unusual spiral structure, two lava stone tubs, and a pyramid aligned with the La Malintzi volcano and originally adorned with clay female figures (now in the site museum) are the top attractions.

For horseriding and tours of the Haciendas Tenexac, Soltepec, Santa Maria Xolostoc, Atlangatepec, and Santa Barbara, contact Javier Zamora at: [e-mail], or Tel. [phone] or 472 3110.

To reach Cacaxtla and Xochitecatl, take the autopista to Puebla, and turn off to your left when you reach the factory of Santa Juliana. Signs first point to Xalmimilulco, then you take a right in San Rafael, after which there are clear signposts. Entrance to the two sites costs 37 pesos (open from 10 a.m.).

RELATED ARTICLE: Special Events

* For a week during Carnival every year (February/March) hundreds of people from remote villages slip on strange masks and colorful costumes for a festival of pre-Hispanic dance.

* In early August (dates vary slightly) Huamantla holds a weeklong international puppet festival with puppeteers from all over Mexico and the world.

* On the night of August 14, streets are closed to traffic and decorated with colored "carpets" of flowers and dyed sawdust in honor of the Virgin of the Assumption. One week later, dozens of bulls are let loose on Huamantla's streets for the "Huamantlada" and young people test their courage by joining them.

RELATED ARTICLE: How To Get There

Head east from Mexico City on Highway 150D, and 33 km before Puebla, head north on Highway 119D, following signs to Tlaxcala city.

Buses leave every 20 minutes from Mexico City's TAPO bus terminal.

RELATED ARTICLE: Where to Stay

In Tlaxcala: The best hotel in town is the Posada San Francisco

Tel: [phone]

In Huamantla: Hacienda Soltepec, km.3 Carretera Huamantla--Puebla

Tels: [phone], or 472 3110, or 472 3109 or www.haciendasoltepec.com

Luxury hotel with restaurant, swimming pools, sauna, tennis and squash courts, billiard and banquet rooms, from US$70 a night for a suite and US$60 for a double.

By Dr. Barbara Kastelein

Dr. Barbara Kastelein is a freelance journalist based in Mexico City.