A very frequent flier: all the thrills and thuds of flying business in Latin America.

"Champagne?" I never thought I would be offered (and accept) champagne so many times as I embarked on a series of international flights for this story. The point was to see what it was like to fly business class on 10 airlines serving Latin America.

At first glance, business class can seem the same on every carrier: No lines at check-in, one boards before everyone else, sipping bubbly before take-off. All of them offer extra legroom and hot towels and all seem to love showing passengers Will Ferrell comedies. But there is a difference: It's in the details, and that's where my air marathon begins.

Starting in Miami, the total journey took me 148 hours. That's more than six days on an airplane, longer than the Apollo 11 trip to the moon, with the obvious difference that the astronauts didn't face the difficult choice between cabernet sauvignon and merlot. For seven weeks, I lived in a sort of bubble world, sleeping on airplanes night after night, showering in VIP lounges at airports, dining on one airline and having breakfast on another. I spent 75 hours just in airports, waiting in Bogota, Panama City, San Salvador, Santiago, Sao Paulo, Atlanta, Chicago, Houston, Miami and Washington. I lost count of the number of times I took off my shoes to pass through security. I don't cite all these numbers to illustrate my heroism or martyrdom. Quite the contrary, it was the very best way to show the difference flying business can make during a flight and upon arriving at a final destination. The critique that follows isn't meant as a complaint but to suggest areas where there is room for improvement and without affecting the general experience.

The seat itself is important. I carried out one unplanned test during one flight (although this is true of all carriers) when bad weather prevented our arrival in Sao Paulo. Instead, we flew to Rio de Janeiro and spent nearly two hours on the runway, then tried again for Sao Paulo, finally landing in the middle of the night at the Viracopos airport in Campinas, more than 100 kilometers from our destination, where we were taken by bus. That's how an eight-hour journey took 15 hours, but I arrived less tired than expected. The secret? In the airborne, ping-pong match between airports I remained in my quite comfortable business-class seat.

Short hops. Clearly, different flight times must be factored into any comparison of airlines. There's just no comparing a two-hour flight from Miami to San Salvador with a nine-hour flight from Atlanta to Santiago. On flights of less than four hours, for example, the seats don't recline far enough to become beds. Copa and Taca offer very basic business-class service, but both are reasonably good for short flights. The most outstanding service, however, was on Avianca, a truly Colombian company in its colorful character. The difference in terms of service was literally from day to night on that flight.

The daytime journey was simple and no-frills, aside from the graciousness of the flight attendants. A spartan breakfast consisted of an omelet with fruit, bread and jam. But on overnight flights the company really shined. Though short (just a little over three hours from Bogota to Miami), the flight was excellent. The seat was wide, reclined well for a short flight and gave ample legroom. Dinner was a high point, starting with a salmon appetizer, then an unforgettable turkey breast with passion fruit sauce and then, for dessert, doce de uchuva, a Colombian fruit. In fact, I noted the clear difference between daytime and overnight flights among several airlines. Those wishing to fully enjoy the business-class experience should, if possible, fly overnight.

On Copa, I took a short flight to Panama City, used by the airline as a regional hub. Boarding was quick and easy, and the check-in personnel even boarded the plane to greet each business-class passenger. The seat was wide but offered legroom and angle of repose only slightly more spacious than economy-class seats. The journey was just two-and-a-half hours, but the seat could have been a bit more comfortable. In any case, the service was good for what is practically a domestic route. On the overnight flight, service began with drinks and warm chestnuts. Dinner was a choice between two hot dishes. And with nine channels, the music selection was appealing, ranging from country to jazz.

On another short flight, I traveled to El Salvador with Taca, an alliance of Central American airlines. The seat was wide, but as with Copa, it reclined only a little and reminded me of economy class. The crew was always smiling but the flight was frugal and discreet. The lunch options were the same as in economy class. The only difference was that business passengers didn't pay $5 for the meal. Silverware and plastic cups were typical of this no-frills experience. Obviously business class is always more comfortable than economy class, but for a quick flight--despite the lack of service--Taca business is fine for executives coming from Miami who want to arrive relaxed for a day of work in Central America.

Challenges. On several flights, as the plane sat on the runway, I began to pick up on "aisle envy," a mixture of desire, jealousy and resignation. Economy-class passengers on the way to their seats in the back of the plane slowed their gait and turned their heads ever so slightly to try to take in the business-class experience in a few seconds as they passed.

I flew on three airlines enduring financial problems. Each was a different experience that revealed the different ways of confronting the crisis. Varig still has traces of its past charm and tries to show that it can shine despite a few minor difficulties on board. United, more down-to-earth, simply decided to offer efficient but more basic service. Then there was Delta, which has embraced the idea that it must grow to overcome its crisis. Flying Delta was a pleasant surprise and one of the most gratifying experiences of all. The seat didn't become a bed but it did recline generously. Best of all, a control allows the passenger to minutely adjust the position of both legs and back to guarantee the most comfortable position.

Delta's menu is creative and comes with a sort of entertainment guide offering information on restaurants in cities like Paris and Rome. It was interesting that the plates bore either of two symbols: the sun or the moon. The first indicates the kind of food that energizes the passenger on board and the second marks the kind of lighter meal that rocks the passenger to sleep after dinner. The menu offered two appetizers and four main dishes. A dinner offish with mango sauce was followed by a plate of cheese and grapes and a glass of port. The personal movie screen offered games and eight channels of films. Eight more audio channels piped in music for every taste. The crew was very professional.

United opted for pragmatism. Everything was efficient and professional, but it lacked that extra shine. The dinner was adequate but nothing special, featuring an appetizer and just two choices for a main dish. More interesting was the Express Dine service, which offered a simple appetizer, salad and dessert for those wishing to drift off to sleep early. Breakfast differed from economy class only in that the plates and coffee cups were made of china. As for entertainment, there was a private movie screen offering current films and eight music channels. The best part of the experience (and it almost made the flight worthwhile) was the seat: It reclined generously, had ample legroom and included something called a backcycler motion system, which gives you a gentle back massage during the flight. If you want to sleep on a flight, United is an excellent option. There were no problems. The only thing missing was that little "extra something" for fliers seeking a total business-class experience.

Unlike United, Varig's financial problems show in business class, although the company does try to make the journey as agreeable as possible. The flight is sober and without frills. There are no private movie screens or dinner menus, though vestigial signs of a flagship service remain. The musical selection was excellent, there were top-quality television programs, the drink cart was well stocked and the meal service included four choices of main dishes and delicious desserts. The seat didn't become a bed but it did recline well and offered ample legroom. And there were little touches of charm: The flight attendants changed aprons between services and offered an extra chocolate candy. The atmosphere wasn't nouveau riche; just the opposite, it was sober and elegant like visiting the home of someone who had a lot of money in the past.

Details. In the midst of the marathon, news of my business-class travels spread to family, friends and colleagues at work. Even off the plane, I felt the envy of the people I know. But it's important to remember that--despite the natural fascination of those who have never traveled in the front of a plane--business class, although great and more relaxing, doesn't do miracles. To sleep stretched out on an airplane seat is a good thing, but it's nothing compared to sleeping in a bed. Neither does business class protect you from crying babies or sneezing neighbors or snoring businessmen in nearby seats. I was the victim of all three on different occasions. The snoring businessman is the most exacting toll of flying business class. More comfortable seats mean deeper sleep, and so passengers tend to snore more. The only escape is to turn up the music or buy one of those special earphones that completely block external noise. I saw many passengers using them.

Four more airlines stood out for their service: American, Continental, LAN and TAM. American's service is impeccable. The flight attendants are gracious and attentive. During a daytime flight, while traveling the short distance from seat to restroom, I twice thanked flight attendants for offering me an extra drink. The meals included excellent appetizers and four choices of entrees. The wine list was limited but high-quality. And dessert--a sundae with chocolate sauce and other toppings prepared in front of the passenger--was charming. The pace of service is gentle and unhurried. The seat is comfortable, although it is far from being American's strong point. It doesn't recline very far and it's narrower than most despite ample legroom. As for entertainment, beyond the private screen showing new attractions, American offers "In flight Theater," a personal DVD player with special earphones and a lineup of 24 movies or specials. The journey is pleasant and relaxed indeed.

Continental is another company offering flawless service. The seat was ample, with various positions for relaxing your legs but, despite being comfortable, it didn't recline far enough to allow the passenger to stretch out fully. At dinner time, there are four choices. Among other mealtime charms, the salad is prepared in front of the passenger and there is a cart offering cheeses, fruits and port. An ice-cream sundae is prepared according to the client's demands, with flavors and toppings of his choosing. What could be better than just pointing to the cherries and asking for another helping? Breakfast is a basic affair that doesn't measure up to dinner, and the large number of seats in business class, 35 of them, sometimes slows service yet doesn't ruin the overall experience of the flight. The variety of films and games is appealing and the music selection has everything, including a channel with pop music from Hong Kong.

For wine enthusiasts, though, nothing compares to flying business class on LAN. The menu offers an excellent selection of Chilean wines with pictures and a description of the origins and type of each in Spanish and English. The crew is knowledgeable and serves the wines with great care, offering suggestions and details about offerings on the list. The seat is another strong point: It reclines generously, has ample legroom and adjusts to suit the passenger's back. LAN's shortcomings are in the details: The bread arrived late and cold, the flight attendants are pleasant but a bit distracted and the musical selection lacked imagination. Neither do the meals measure up to the wine menu. In general, the service is good, but details matter.

It was precisely in the details that TAM stood out. Right from the start, the customary glass of champagne is served to the passenger, accompanied by slivers of parmesan cheese instead of chestnuts. The personal movie screen is large and the passenger can pause or skip over parts of the film as desired. There are four choices for dinner, each served on attractive plates with quality silverware, an appetizing presentation. The wine list was weak. It offers a good selection, but a company whose slogan is "proud to be Brazilian" ought to offer some Brazilian wines at a time when the country is starting to export higher quality vintages.

The music selection is good but a bit limited. Many channels play only one artist and that can be repetitive during long flights. Early in the morning, each passenger is awakened by flight attendants according to a personal request made after dinner, with low lights and a breakfast tray. The journey is very pleasant, with more pros than cons. What really set TAM apart, however, was the seats. Of all the flights I flew for this story, it was TAM's seat that reclined the best. You end up nearly horizontal and it has an enormous amount of space between seats forward and back: It truly is a flying bed.

Smooth landing. After 52 separate departures and arrivals on 10 airlines, it was quite clear that traveling business class is always a pleasant and relaxing way to fly and arrive well rested. During one stretch, after returning to Miami from Colombia and getting ready to depart for Panama, I found time to bathe at home, take a two-hour nap and get back in time to find my parking space at the airport still empty. Even with all that running around, at all times it was clear that I was better rested than after economy-class flights. Sure, the champagne helped, but it wasn't the only reason.

JEWELS BY THE SEA

Sprawling across the Bahia coastline, the Marriott Resort & Spa Bahia welcomes tourists from around the world to the famous Costa do Sauipe, about 80 kilometers from the state capital Bahia. Built to be both cozy for the vacationer and spacious for business meetings, the resort provides 256 rooms, 17 of which are spacious suites. Anything and everything needed for a large event is available. The main ballroom holds 1,000 people and comes complete with audiovisual equipment to attend to them all.

Once the meeting wraps up, guests can unwind on horseback, on a bicycle or at sea. Swimming pools and tennis courts with bleachers are available for the more athletic. Golf lovers won't be at a loss here. There's an 18-hole course right in the back yard. The spa overlooks the ocean and offers massages and a variety of treatments, including aromatherapy, hydrating and exfoliating facial treatments as well as wet and dry saunas. Classes include step aerobics and yoga with trained instructors. Got the kids? There are a slew of activities to keep them busy from breakfast to dinner.

The hotel's Spices restaurant on the oceanfront specializes in Asian cuisine. Open only for dinner, the restaurant is popular for its sushi and Korean dishes. For a Brazilian affair, Orixas offers Bahian recipes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. For the sun-worshipping lounge lizard, the poolside Manga Rosa offers drinks and snacks.

Looking further south, our readers also recommended the JW Marriott Hotel Rio de Janeiro, located on the famous Copacabana Beach. With 245 rooms including 15 junior and presidential suites, the hotel is a favorite among the many tourists visiting the city. Business travelers like it too, as there are 600 square meters of meeting space for conventions of all sorts. Don't forget to check out the Business Center for computing and printing needs.

Once work is over, get in shape up on the roof. On the penthouse floor you'll find the Fitness Center complete with exercise classes, massages, a sauna and a swimming pool. Glass walls give way to spectacular views of the ocean and the famous Pao de Acucar hills. For the low key, grab a quick drink at the Card da Praia or order some Japanese at Taiyo Sushi & Sald bar. Guests residing in the presidential suites can enjoy happy hour at the exclusive Executive Lounge.--Carlos Adese</p> <pre> BEST HOTELS BRAZIL Costa do Sauipe Marriott Resort & Spa

9.71 JW Marriott Hotel Rio de Janeiro 9.70 Hilton Sao Paulo Morumbi 9.65 Maksoud Plaza 9.63

Sheraton Rio Hotel & Towers 9.56 Renaissance Sao Paulo Hotel

9.28 Copacabana Palace 8.70 Gran Melia WTC Sao Paulo 8.58 InterContinental Sao Paulo 8.56 Le Meridien Copacabana 8.47 </pre> <p>NO STARVING ARTISTS

A blank canvas is nothing, but on it a masterpiece can appear. For LATIN TRADE'S readers, Canvas at the Hilton Sao Paulo Morumbi is a culinary masterpiece. A blend of fine food and art, Canvas is one for all the senses: Colorful paintings by Brazilian artists cover the walls, so many that the restaurant could be mistaken for an art gallery with tables. Each menu, too, is made of canvas, each with its own original painting.

The food is art on a plate. Purple risotto with shrimp is made with beets, a delight to the palate as art is to the eyes. For those with more creative tastes, the sole with strawberry risotto is a good bet. Despite the arts), feel of the place, tables can be arranged for the perfect business setting. The wine selection is good too. The cellar holds 600 bottles. End your meal with a frozen pina colada souffle. Tip the waiter well because the service is excellent.

Also dear to the stomachs of our readers was Fasano. While only open for dinner, the restaurant is ideal for business. An expensive restaurant, it's in the boutique hotel of the same name. Tables are snapped up quickly, so make reservations well in advance. It's probably the only Italian restaurant where you can order ravioli filled with duck and smothered with orange sauce. Also try the pasta with pheasant blanketed in a red wine sauce. It carries sophisticated dining to new heights of culinary simplicity.

For the less daring, Fasano also has a sampler plate of northern Italian cuisine, with five choices. Don't expect fancy cheeses with your bread; you'll get basic bread and butter when you sit down, pretty much on par with any middle-fare restaurant. On the flip side, the wines are world class whether you order by the bottle or the glass. Save room for the hazelnut pie with orange and lemon sauces.--Carlos Adese</p>

<pre> BEST RESTAURANTS BRAZIL Canvas Bar & Grill (Sao Paulo)

9.84 Fasano (Sao Paulo) 9.62 Terraco Jardins (Sao Paulo) 9.56 Barra Grill (Rio de Janeiro) 9.34 Spices (Costa do Sauipe) 9.34 Figueira (Sao Paulo)

9.25 Rubaiyat (Sao Paulo) 9.14 Bar des Arts (Sao Paulo) 8.92 Marius (Rio de Janeiro) 8.86 Bargago (Sao Paulo) 8.84 </pre> <p>CARIBBEAN COCKTAIL

Seafood fans will feel they've died and gone to heaven at Sully Restaurant, on Avenida Winston Churchill in Santo Domingo. A touch of upscale decor joins a laid-back attitude as home-style ambience takes the fine-dining experience to the comfort of your own living room. On the menu, you'll find traditional seafood cazuela, a type of stew brimming with lobster. You can also take a bite of fresh crab, octopus, nibble from a shrimp cocktail or tuck into a seafood parrilla, a rice dish filled with everything good from the sea. Locals deem it a true delicacy. Chef Antonio Cardenas brings his vast experience preparing Santo Domingo's finest meals to the delight of patrons night after night. Everything is caught daily and served fresh.

For a good appetizer, try the fish soup or a shrimp cocktail. For the main course, fried shrimp or fresh red snapper are a must. Can't decide? Order a combo plate of fish and shellfish. Wines from around the world are available, as are some of the Caribbean's finest liquors. If you're driving, ask for fresh fruit juice. Just before coffee, have a slice of coconut flan or cheesecake, if you have room left over. In the upscale Los Prados section of Santo Domingo, Sully is open every day except Monday.

Located in the historic Casco Antiguo section of Panama City, Las Bovedas is the place to be for 19th-century French cuisine. French food is not uncommon in Panama, having been introduced by foreign workers on the Panama Canal, and if recipes get better with time, the Las Bovedas is keeping the tradition alive. Once a dungeon used for torture during colonial times, the restaurant housed prisoners who were bitten by sea creatures as the tide rose to their necks. Today, Las Bovedas is a work of art, literally. It houses the National Culture Insitute's art gallery.

The service is excellent and anything on the menu is pretty much a winner. But, if you have to choose, start off with the Las Bovedas salad, a mix of lobster, salmon, conch and other marine delights prepared in an orange sauce. For the main course, order the magret de pato, wonderful medallions of duck breast served in a grape sauce. For the meat lover, the Ricardo Corazon de Leon cut is a juicy and wonderful portion of pork served in an apple sauce. For the traditionalist, the classic surf and turf--lobster and beef--is available. Liquors and wines from around Panama and the world abound here, but be sure to try the house special: the laguna azul a mix of rum, vodka, triple sec, pineapple juice and other, secret ingredients. For the sweet tooth, the creme brulee is excellent, as are fresh strawberries. Open every day except Sunday for dinner. Las Bovedas also offers jazz on Fridays.

--Yaniris Felipe, David Salayandia</p> <pre> BEST RESTAURANTS CENTRAL AMERICA & CARIBBEAN Miramar (Palm Beach, Aruba) 9.20 Sully (Santo Domingo) 9.11 Las Bovedas (Panama City) 8.98 Paradise Lobster & Steak House (San Salvador) 8.67 Tamarindos (Guatemala City) 8.66 City Club Panama (Panama City)

8.65 El Churrasco (Managua) 8.48 Grano de Oro (San Jose) 8.45 La Piazzetta (San Jose)

8.24 Monasterio (San Jose) 8.23 </pre> <p>BUSINESS AND PLEASURE

In the center of the Dominican capital, the Hotel Melia Santo Domingo caters to those traveling on business, pleasure or both. The view of the Caribbean is spectacular, so dive right in or take a dip in the large swimming pool. The restaurants are top-notch and afterwards, check out the casino. If you're not there just for fun, the business center has all you need to make your trip worthwhile. All 245 rooms come with access to broadband Internet. When the day is over, turn off the laptop and head for the nearby downtown historic district. The airport is 35 minutes away.

The Bristol Panama has won rave reviews from business travelers. Right in the middle of Panama City's financial district, the 56-room property offers amenities of all types. Everyone will enjoy the hotel's privacy and blend of luxury with security. In each room hang paintings by Panamanian artists. There are also fax machines, CD burners and high-speed Internet. The business center is open 24 hours a day. If the business center is too busy, the hotel often lends some of its guests notebook computers to take with them. Other perks include fresh fruit baskets laid out daily and daytime and evening shoe-shining services.

--Andres F. Velazquez

BEST HOTELS CENTRAL AMERICA & CARIBBEAN

Melia Santo Domingo
(Dominican Republic)                   9.60
The Bristol Hotel (Panama)             9.40
Real InterContinental San Salvador
(El Salvador)                          9.40
Guatemala City Marriott Hotel
(Guatemala)                            9.40
The Westin Camino Real Guatemala
(Guatemala)                            9.30
Miramar InterContinental Panama
(Panama)                               8.90
Hilton Princess San Salvador
(El Salvador)                          8.89
Panama Marriott Hotel (Panama)         8.72
Real InterContinental Guatemala
(Guatemala)                            8.71
Costa Rica Marriott Hotel San Jose
(Costa Rica)                           8.65