A taste of Texas - or is it Italy?

Byline: By Nick Woods

Tucked away in Newcastle's St Mary's Place, in the city centre but a little away from the main drag of high street shops, you would be forgiven for overlooking Paris Texas, but it would be a shame.

I'm not sure where the name comes from as there is little of Paris in this restaurant as far as I could see, while the menu is full of Italian dishes.

But it's not a total misnomer given the list of tex-mex and southern US dishes available, and the orange sky ceiling with tropical fans, so maybe we're meant to be enjoying a flavour of Paris, Texas?

Whatever! It's a long-running eaterie which deserves its longevity, providing a worthwhile service, I would suggest, for the post-shopping or pre-party crowds, hard-up students or any young family looking for an easy Saturday night.

It is also a one-off and devoid of pretension or attitude which marks it out as a refreshing alternative to the chains or other Italian restaurants.

The venue is spacious with fairy lights on the windows for a cosy bistro feel. Service is friendly, the menu extensive and affordable, and the quality of food good, though not gourmet.

I was with a gang of four, looking for some decent fuel before a night on the town, and we weren't disappointed.

Starters were Vegetali Rosti Con Caprino (roasted vegetables smothered in goats cheese) at pounds 4.95, Deep Fried Mushrooms served with a garlic mayonnaise dip, pounds 4.25, Guacamole Dip with tortilla dips, pounds 4.25, and Mozzarella Tricolore (the classic salad of avocado, mozzarella and tomato), pounds 5.50.

The Vegetali emerged as favourite, good-size portion, lovely and rich and with the vegetables smothered in cheese. It was tasted by all and so popular that one of us chose it as a main course.

For the other three mains we chose Tortelloni Cristoforo, pasta parcels filled with spinach and ricotta cheese, pounds 6.25, Lasagne Al Forno, pounds 6.25, and a vegetarian pizza at pounds 5.95.

Again there were no complaints. It was all well presented, tasty and filling.

Desserts were two ice cream bombs at pounds 3.50 each, a little too much cocoa powder on top causing a couple of dry coughs, but otherwise a decadent enough finale.

Two bottles of wine were sunk - the first a French Sauvignon Blanc at pounds 11.95 which was dry with citrus flavours. It was OK. But the second, a Pinot Grigio at pounds 13.95, was a safer bet and more enjoyable.

The whole meal came to pounds 80, including a tip, and prepared us nicely for the rest of the night/early morning.

If the bill seems a little steep then look out for the happy hours and the student night every Monday offering cheap pizza or pasta.

* Paris Texas, 12 St Mary's Place, Newcastle. Tel: [phone].