A taste of Haven; Emily Shelley finds a dream destination for children on the East Anglia/Suffolk border.

AS we arrived at our holiday park on the Suffolk-Norfolk border, pulling in beside a glaring amusement arcade flanked by burger vans, we were determined to keep an open mind.

The Suffolk coast probably hasn't been an obvious first choice for holidays since the 1970s, and eastcoast breezes can be testing. Aldeburgh and Southwold have remained fashionable, the two towns becoming more attractive by refusing to change at all.

But on the evidence of the brochure from camping operator Haven Holidays, the rest of this stretch of the coastline seems to be undergoing a renaissance.

In a summer when many families are trading down from the usual expensive foreign package, seaside cottage, woodland cabin or all-in hotel, the prices are tempting, with swimming pools, sports, kids' activities and entertainment all thrown in.

When we got to Hopton Park - an award-winning four-star operation between Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft - we were prepared to look past our less-than-welcoming initial impression.

Hopton has direct beach access and the full range of Haven facilities and activities on-site. Caravans range from Exclusive to Standard - ours was a mid-range Prestige, third in the pecking order of seven classifications.

With a large living area and modern decor, it was a spacious holiday home with everything you might possibly need. Bedrooms were small but with enough wardrobe and cupboard space to suffice, and the relatively roomy bathroom and walk-in shower a surprise.

Our plot was set quite far back from the sea, but was close to the on-site nine-hole golf course. Caravans are quite close together, so you hear the neighbours from time to time, but the park is prettily landscaped with safe green areas for children to play.

All was quiet and secluded here, and we felt sufficiently buoyed up to make first use of our week-long passes to the entertainment zone complex at the heart of the park - at the mercy of the weather, we needed inside facilities to compensate.

At first sight, the facilities were not as bright and modern as the marketing material suggested. The main bar/restaurant area was more motorway service station than gastro pub, with arcade machines, huge TVs blaring from the walls and the menu running to little more than "something with chips".

But beyond that dated diner we discovered the large indoor pool, with slides and jumping fountains all under a large glass roof - our daughter squealed with delight. She was equally thrilled at the prospect of chips for tea.

TRAVEL INFORMATION When the rain cleared, we ventured outside. A large cafe decking area led to a playground with climbing fort, bouncy castle, trampolines, tennis courts and outdoor pool - and yet more squealing.

. Emily Shelley Haven Holidays haven.com) at Hopton Three nights' self-catering for family up to from pounds 649.

While parents hanker for a boutique hotel Four September. Haven homes havenholidayhomes.are for sale pounds 15,995 overlooking a quaint harbour, this is the kind of holiday your kids will love. You'll need to turn a deaf ear to the disco music, enthusiastic children's entertainers and constant whirring amusements.

a guest of 230 1936, Holiday Park. from pounds 279 We were irked by "owners only" swimming sessions which stopped us splashing until seven nights in late at pounds 149 230 1299, co.uk)from 10am, but perhaps this boosts cheerful attempts by park staff to sell you a caravan.

While your children enjoy tennis lessons, archery and football coaching (and a healthy packed lunch), you can always escape to the beach - there's a direct path down to a long stretch of golden sand.

Ten minutes away by car is the pretty village of Somerleyton, with its palatial Jacobean Hall and gardens and a smart pub/restaurant run by the estate.

The Hall grounds join on to Fritton Lake Country Park, a fantastic place for families and a bargain at pounds 6 (pounds 4 for child) a day for access to the boating and swimming lake, Viking Fort adventure playground, children's farm, pony rides and cycle and walking trails.

Within a half-hour's drive are the Africa Alive wildlife park and the Pleasurewood Hills theme park.

Meanwhile, Great Yarmouth has a sealife centre and all the amusements of the pier, and if you head south into Suffolk you have a choice of beaches.

Hopton is within 10 minutes of at least three major supermarkets, so you can stock up and eat in very easily, with basic supplies available at the on-site shop.

Plenty of takeaways are on tap, but tracking down a decent meal out in the evening proved quite a challenge. Your best bet is to head inland - just five minutes beyond the A12, all the fun of the seaside makes way for pretty farmland, unspoilt hamlets, cricket greens and quiet country pubs.

That may be more your idea of a haven, but your kids might disagree.

constant TRAVEL INFORMATION . Emily Shelley was a guest of Haven Holidays (0871 230 1936, haven.com) at Hopton Holiday Park.

Three nights' self-catering from pounds 279 for family up to six, seven nights from pounds 649.

Four nights in late September from at pounds 149. Haven homes (0871 230 1299, havenholidayhomes.co.uk) are for sale from pounds 15,995 enjoy

CAPTION(S):

Pirate ride at Pleasurewood Hills and (inset) Punch and Judy at Great Yarmouth