A spot check for ageing skin; HEALTH NOTES.

Byline: SARAH STACEY

HEALTH NOTES HEALTH NOTES M any older people develop brown 'age' spots, invariably on areas that have been exposed to the sun such as the face and hands. Patches of more intense pigment are also common in pregnant women (called melasma or chloasma) and those with darker coloured skins. Now, however, hyperpigmentation is affecting increasing numbers of people, of all skin colours, at much younger ages. According to Dr Tom Mammone, executive director of research and development at skincare company Clinique, 'In the past ten years, the issue has become global, affecting most ethnic groups. As well as darker skin types, I see blue-eyed blondes with unevenly pigmented skin tone.' Melanin, the pigment responsible for skin colour, is produced by cells called melanocytes which are incorporated into skin cells (keratinocytes) of the epidermis, the top layer of skin. The hyperpigmentation process is essentially the same as tanning, but instead of going brown all over, it occurs more chaotically. There are many causes but Dr Mammone says that sun damage is the biggest culprit. 'If you sunbathe a lot, over time dark spots tend to occur on the skin.' (Freckles, however, are an inborn hereditary condition, and their relationship with UV rays is not fully understood.) Another cause is hormonal. Around 70 per cent of women of childbearing age experience melasma or chloasma, with light to dark brown blotches appearing, usually across the central part of the face. It's seen most in pregnant women (thus its nickname the 'mask of pregnancy'), or those on the contraceptive pill, and is thought to be triggered by increased oestrogen, and possibly progesterone, stimulating more melanin production. Sun exposure makes it worse, so it's vital to stay out of the sun or wear an SPF20 sun prep daily. The 'mask of pregnancy' invariably fades within three months of giving birth. The reproductive hormones aren't the only culprits, however: 'We're pretty sure that a spike in stress hormones can cause hyperpigmentation too, and we know they can impair the skin barrier,' says Dr Mammone.

Sometimes, hyperpigmentation can occur as a result of the skin suffering inflammation caused by acne, contact dermatitis (from an allergy to metal jewellery, for example) or even over-cleansing the skin. 'If you damage the skin and cause inflammation, you risk hyperpigmentation. My wife pricked her arm on a thorn when she was gardening, and was left with a dark mark that took years to fade.' So what can be done? In a nutshell, cherish your skin with meticulous daily sun protection, and nourish the skin barrier with omega-3 oils both inside and out (avoid low-fat diets at all costs) and eat plenty of antioxidant-rich vegetables and fruit. Hydrate your skin (and your whole body) by sipping at least eight large glasses of water daily; fascinatingly, a friend in her late 50s told me that when she started doing this she saw significant results in her skin within days. Manage stress and relax with calming regimes such as yoga and meditation. Also consider using one of the specific products on the market, such as Clinique's New Even Better Skin Tone Correcting Moisturizer, e52, which contains an SPF20 and some really interesting botanicals (Dr Mammone's team searches for active natural ingredients, often used in traditional Chinese medicine), plus a clever 'advanced yeast blend' which diffuses the dark spots into micro-particles so they're less visible on the skin.

Finally, keep your gut healthy. Our skin mirrors the health of our digestive system, according to Dr Georges Mouton, who specialises in nutrition-based medicine. Omega-3 oils can help, as can probiotic supplements. (Try Mega-Probiotic ND, e20.65 for 60 capsules from Victoria Health, tel: [phone], victoriahealth.com.) Don't miss Tuesday's Good Health - the Irish Daily Mail's look at the issues that affect your family E-mail [e-mail] Sarah reads all your e-mails but regrets that she cannot answer them all personally