A shaded place in the tropics.

The history of spices reads like a well scripted children's fable; sea voyages to unknown places, invading kingdoms, and foretold riches. The moral of the story: to rule the spice trade is to rule the world, or so it was centuries ago, before the world was believed to be round, before competing countries could cultivate the spices for themselves. In addition to the dramatic effect the spice trade had on history and cuisine; style and wealth were directly associated with anything foreign. So precious and rare in ancient times, a handful of cinnamon and a tin of nutmeg were more wealth than most could imagine, costing more than their weight in gold. Later, during the Middle Ages, the Crusaders returned with gifts of exotic aromatics for Europe's royalty, but even still, cinnamon and nutmeg were primarily used for incense, perfume, and herbal remedies. The age of Magellan and sea exploration in the 1500s opened the floodgates to the Far East, whetting the appetite of Kings. The Portuguese, Dutch, and British ha ve all taken their turn at the helm of Sri Lanka, a small island off the coast of India and Moluccas, a cluster of tiny islands in Southeast Asia where cinnamon and nutmeg trees blossom. Though much of the cinnamon in circulation today comes from China, the mystique of these spices is rooted not in their availability but in the quality of the spice itself.

Though the ruling powers of the island have changed hands for hundreds and hundreds of years, its people and vegetation have not. It is here, under lush palms and the warm breeze of the Indian Ocean that tea, rubber coconut, and true cinnamon plantations thrive. A tropical paradise just southeast of India, Ceylon's formal constitution ordained the island "Sri Lanka" in the mid 1900s. Here cinnamon is an inherited way of life for those who share its maritime climate, low altitude, and sandy coastline. Cinnamon grows on a white flowering evergreen which can reach heights of thirty-three feet. Harvesting takes place during the rainy season from May-June and October-November, when the sap is rich. Though the rain facilitates peeling, the process is considered a learned skill passed down through generations of the Sri Lankan salagma caste; a group, which strictly follows the traditions of their trade, traditions not dictated by growers. The process begins by cutting down the tender shoots, setting them in a shed, and covering them with jute sacks to ferment overnight. The next day, sitting cross-legged on the floor, the peelers trim the shoots of any leaves and the rough outer bark. A smooth brass block is used to beat and rub the inner bark loose. A sharp sickle-like blade called a kikaththa, is used to gently slice each side of the twig, freeing the aromatic cinnamon bark in one piece. The paler the cinnamon the better; this is a sign that the bark has been peeled from young shoots. As the layers are removed, they are dried in the shade to prevent warping in the intense sunlight. As the bark dries it curls unto itself creating frayed and papery cinnamon quills, a distinguishing quality in true cinnamon. The long cinnamon strands are trimmed to 42-inch long canes, a measurement required by the world cinnamon market. The cinnamon quills are covered with sacks once again and set aside to "cure" for one day. The quills are then transferred to indoor hammocks where they are left to dry for two days or until they turn go lden brown. The first harvest yields a thick bark and the quality improves with subsequent layers. The quills are then inspected for "foxing," a reddish brown stain which occurs due to damp conditions. Once inspected, the quills are packed into neat, 100-pound bundles before being graded and sold. Ten different grades are used to rate the diameter and number of quills per pound. Loose chips are sold for use in blended or ground products and for cinnamon oil production. Peelers, growers, and buyers all attend the seasonal market as price affects everyone involved.

Today, however, true cinnamon seldom reaches our kitchen, especially when purchased ground. Though not necessarily inferior, cassia and canella are more economical alternatives to Sri Lankan cinnamon. True cinnamon is more brittle, softer and less tightly coiled. Anthony Porvetto of Spicehouse concludes that the most important distinguishing factor between canella, cassia, and true cinnamon is their oil content. The higher the oil content, the more intense the flavor and aroma, though he maintains that few people can tell the difference. Canella or white cinnamon, is a different botanical species though it is often marketed as Mexican cinnamon. Canella is cultivated in Mexico, the West Indies, and Florida. Its perfume and flavor are reminiscent of fireball jawbreakers, the kind kids love to suck on. Though similar to true cinnamon, it is lighter in color, more clove-like in aroma, and more bitter in flavor. Visually, canella quills are very tightly coiled and coarse. Cassia on the other hand is a relative of cinnamon but is native to China and cultivated throughout Southeast Asia. Cassia quills are tightly coiled and has a lighter, orange-yellow hue. "Vietnamese cinnamon," a variety of cassia, have an oil content of 4% and has a certain amount of heat, making it suitable to spicy dishes. Cassia from China, or "Chinese cinnamon" has an oil content of 3% and is closest in sweetness to true cinnamon. Because cassia and canella are very coarse and difficult to grind without commercial equipment, they are most often sold in powdered form.

Fragrant, whole nutmeg, freshly grated is also a rarity. Nutmeg and mace also thrive in the tropics in Moluccas, a cluster of volcanic islands in Southeast Asia--aptly known as the "Spice Islands." The nutmeg tree is also a spreading evergreen with dark green leaves and pale yellow flowers. The trees, which can reach over forty feet in height, thrive in rich volcanic soil, preferring low elevations where they are sheltered from strong tropical winds. Referred to, by botanists, as a "harem tree," one male tree can fertilize ten to twenty female trees, resulting in 1500-2000 nuts per tree. The fruit ripens six months after flowering. The fruit itself resembles a pale green apricot. Once fully mature, the fruit cracks and the seed within drops to the ground. In Indonesia, the fleshy interior, which lines the nutmeg fruit, is scraped from the shell, dried, and sugared. This sweetmeat known as pala manis tastes of pear and ginger. The nutmeg pod, which has dropped to the ground, is cloaked in a red net or aril. O nce removed, the aril is dried and separated into "blades" at which point it is known by its commercial name: mace. The blades of mace, though difficult to find outside of Europe, have a much more pronounced flavor when whole. The scent and taste of mace is often described as peppery or musty with an almost mentholated note. Its coppery orange color a reminder of pumpkin pie. Indonesian mace is deep orange-red, while mace from Grenada is true orange in color. Whole nutmeg is set aside to dry for up to six weeks at which time the outer shell is cracked and the nutmeg pod is revealed. For retail purposes nutmeg is graded as 80s, or 100s, depending on the number of nutmeg pods in a pound, the heavier the nut, the more oil and therefore perfume and flavor. These grades are then distributed accordingly. Both the farmer and the distributor benefit from the sale of higher grades; this ensures quality control. In the East Indies, nutmeg pods are crushed and steamed to make nutmeg butter. The viscous orange cakes are sold in stone jars or wrapped in leaves (Grieve 592).

In India, spices are regarded as warm or "cool." A spice that increases the body's temperature, like cinnamon, nutmeg, and mace, is a warm spice. While spices like bay leaf, fennel and clove, which lower the body's temperature, are considered cool.

When purchasing cinnamon and nutmeg, oil content will have a marked effect on the taste of dish.

It is important to remember that few sweet cinnamon dishes exist in the Far East, but rather, they rely on their warm perfume and pepper quality in the preparation of such ingredients as Chinese five spice, curry blends, and garam masala. Cinnamon and nutmeg are more than a visual accessory to dress up a cappuccino they are rather a small component of an intricate collage that balances history, comfort, and culture.

RELATED ARTICLE: Pierre Schultz

Vong - NY, New York 

He has helped open Jean-Georges Vongerichten's properties in London, Hong Kong, Chicago, St. Barts, and Paradise Island, but Chef de Cuisine Pierre Schutz remains in Manhattan to oversee the Pan Asian specialties of Vong. And, though he has considered opening his own restaurant, Schutz remains with his mentor where they share many of the same ideas about food. "We've been cooking together for so many years that our palates are in total sync," Schutz quips. "We don't even need to speak." The two chefs have worked side by side since 1985, when a young Schutz moved to the United States to work at Le Marquis de Lafayette.

A graduate of Vevey Cooking School in his native Switzerland, Schutz trained at the Hotel Beau-Rivage for two years and the Hotel des Bergues for two years. "At the time, everything I learned was about classical cuisine--very traditional," Schutz recalls. "Then I took a job with the Presidente Swissotel in Geneva, and this led to an opportunity to go to the States at Le Marquis de Lafayette in the Lafayette Swissotel in Boston." While working in Boston, Schutz met Jean-Georges who was working for Louis Outhier at the Lafayette, New York restaurant in the Drake Hotel. A year later, Schutz was hired by the two as a sous chef. He stayed in New York for three years, until the Lafayette, Boston needed him to return as Chef de Cuisine. While heading up the kitchen, his nouvelle French style received rave reviews from Mobile and was deemed 'the best restaurant in Boston' by the Zagat Survey. However, his stay was brief, "I knew Jean-Georges was in the process of opening JoJo," Schutz recalls. "I couldn't resist the opportunity to explore new avenues, especially ones that allowed me to travel to Southeast Asia." Schutz left his post in Boston to move to Seoul, Korea where he worked at The Westin Hotel. Schutz explains that in 1991, having recently hosted the Olympics, Korea was much more liberal and open to an array of international cuisines other than its own. Though he cooked French cuisine at the Westin Hotel, he was steeped with the spices, cooking techniques, and flavors of Asia, ingredients, which have directed his cooking style. One year later, Jean-Georges asked Schutz to return to New York to help open Vong. Once the restaurant's Thai-French cuisine was established as a success, Schutz took advantage of an offer to become the Chef de Cuisine of Lutece. Though the title may have had some rewards, Schutz would soon returned to the Jean-Georges's empire, where he is in his element, working along side his mentor.

Foie Gras with Cinnamon Poached Butternut Squash

(Serves 6)

ingredients

For the spice bread:

Softened butter as needed 

3 ounces unsalted butter, softened

4 ounces granulated sugar 

1 egg

9 ounces honey

1 tablespoon water

16 ounces all-purpose flour

3 ounces almond flour

1/4 ounce baking powder

1 teaspoon ground star anise 

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground cloves

Pinch of salt

Zest of 1 small lemon, grated

For the butter nut squash:

3 cups water

1 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cinnamon stick

1 butternut squash, peeled and sliced into 6 1 1/2-inch rings

2 teaspoons salted butter, melted

For the foie gras:

6 2 1/2-ounce slices foie gras, trimmed into 2 1/2-inch rounds

Coarse salt and cracked black pepper to taste

For the sauce:

2 cups Banyuls, reduced to a syrup

Reserved poaching liquid, strained

Reserved foie gras fat

Salt and pepper to taste

For the croutons:

Reserved spice bread, diced

For the salad:

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 cup baby beet greens

Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Coarse salt

Cracked black pepper

Whole nutmeg, grated

Chive blossoms

Chef Schutz uses 18-inch cinnamon sticks from China. Available through Spicehouse International Special at [phone].

Banyuls is a sweet red wine from Southern France often referred to as a vin doux natural.

Note: Aria metallic charger by Fortessa, available through Friend & Co. at [phone].

directions

For the spice bread, preheat the oven to 375 degrees and liberally coat the inside of a 9x5x3-inch loaf pan with 1/4 cup softened butter. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the remaining butter and sugar until smooth, about three minute. Add the egg and mix until combined, about two minutes. Add the honey and water and mix until combined about two minutes. Add the all-purpose flour, almond flour, baking powder star anise, cinnamon, cloves, salt, and lemon zest in several stages, scraping down the sides of the bowl between each addition. Mix until well combined, about two minutes. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl and set aside to rest for three hours. Transfer the dough to the prepared pan and spread evenly. Place in the oven to bake until done, about one hour. Remove from the heat, set aside to cool, and maintain a hot oven. Transfer the spice bread to a cutting board and remove the mold. Cut the bread into 12 thin slices and cut each half to form 24 triangles. Cut the remaining bread into small cubes. Transfer the spice bread triangles and cubes to a parchment lined sheet pan. Place in the oven and bake until dry, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

For the butternut squash, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the butternut squash slices on a cutting board and, using a 2 1/4-inch cookie cutter, cut out the center of each slice and set aside. In a medium sauce pan over medium heat, combine the water, sugar, and cinnamon stick. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and add the squash. Simmer until tender, about five minutes. Remove from the heat and, using a slotted spoon, transfer the squash to a parchment-lined sheet pan. Strain the poaching liquid and reserve. Brush the squash with the butter and place in the oven to roast until gold brown, about 10 minutes. Remove heat and set aside keeping warm.

Dom Perignon Rose

Moet & Chandon Champagne France 1982

For the foie gras, heat a medium saute pan over medium heat. Season and sear the foie gras on both sides until desired doneness. Remove from the heat, Using a slotted spatula, transfer the foie gras to a sheet pan and reserve the foie gras and fat separately keeping warm.

For the sauce, in a medium bowl, combine the Banyuls, reserved syrup, and the foie gras fat. Gently whisk to combine, season, and set aside.

For the croutons, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the bread on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Place in the oven to bake until golden brown, about five minutes, Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

For the salad, in a medium bowl, combine the olive oil and lemon juice. Whisk to combine, add the beet greens, and toss to combine. Season and set aside.

To assemble, place a foie gras slice in the center of each butternut squash ring. Grate some nutmeg on top and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, arrange some salad and a butternut squash round to one side of a plate and top with two spiced bread chips. Sprinkle some toasted bread, salt, pepper, and nutmeg around the dish.

Sea Scallops with a Nutmeg, Caper, and Raisin Emulsion (Serves 6)

For the nutmeg, caper, and raisin emulsion:

8 ounces capers, drained

1 tablespoon caper juice

8 ounces golden raisins

2 cups water

5 ounces unsalted butter

1 1/2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1/2 nutmeg, chopped

Salt and pepper to taste

For the cauliflower:

1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil

1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 cauliflower florets, thinly sliced

Salt and pepper to taste

For the scallops:

3 tablespoons clarified butter

6 large sea scallops, roe sac and shells reserved separately.

Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Coarse salt

Ground black pepper

Whole nutmeg, grated

Cilantro sprigs

Note: Bumpy Lumpy metallic tray by Lawrence Essentials, available through Friend & Co. at [phone].

directions

{Pierre Schutz}

For the nutmeg, caper, and raisin emulsion, in a medium saucepan, bring the capers, caper juice, raisins, water, and butter to a boil, reduce, the heat, and maintain a simmer until the raisins are tender, about five minutes. Remove from the heat, transfer to a commercial blender, add the vinegar and nutmeg and puree until smooth, about tow minutes. Season and set aside keeping warm.

For the cauliflower, in a medium saute pan, heat the oil and butter over medium heat. Add the cauliflower and saute until browned and crisp, about five minutes. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the scallops, in a medium saute pan, heat the clarified butter over medium heat. Season and sear the scallops on both sides until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, place a scallop shell in the center of a plate and a scallop, roe sac, and cauliflower in the center. Drizzle some nutmeg, caper, and raisin emulsion around the dish, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and garnish with cilantro sprigs.

Blanc

Chateau Pape-Clement

Bordeaux, France 1994

Cinnamon Spiced Cod with Tamarind (Serves 6) Ketchup

Ingredients

For the spice mix:

1 tablespoon coriander seeds

1/2 tablespoon cumin seeds

1/2 cinnamon stick(*)

1 tablespoon ground nutmeg

1 tablespoon red pepper flakes

4 cloves

For the tamarind ketchup:

4 Thai chilies, stemmed, seeded, and chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

2 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

3/4 cup tamarind paste(**)

1/4 cup white vinegar

For the artichokes:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

6 artichoke hearts, sliced

2 teaspoons medium carry powder

1/4 cup water

Salt and pepper to taste

For the cod:

2 tablespoons peanut oil

6 6-ounce cod fillets

Reserved spice mix

Salt and cayenne to taste

For the dish:

Snap peas, blanched 

Reserved spice mix

For the garnish:

Fennel frounds

* Chef Schutz uses 18-inch cinnamon sticks from China. Available through Spicehouse International Specialties at [phone].

Available in Asian markets:

Note: Kyoto square frosted charger by Fortessa available through Friend & Co at [phone].

directions

For the spice mix, in a spice grinder, combine all of the ingredients and puree to a fine powder. Transfer to a small bowl, set aside and reserve one tablespoon separately.

For the tamarind ketchup, in a commercial blender, combine all of the ingredients and pulse to combine. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

For the artichokes, in a medium saute pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the artichokes and saute for two minutes. Add the curry powder and water and simmer until tender, about five minutes. Remove from the heat, season and set aside keeping warm.

For the cod, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a medium saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Season the cod, liberally coat with the spice mixture, and sear, spice-side-down, for two minutes. Remove from the heat and place in the over until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, arrange a cod fillet, some artichokes, and snow peas in the center of a plate. Spoon some tamarind ketchup around the dish, sprinkle with reserved spice mix, and garnish with fennel fronds.

Clos Ste. Hune

F. E. Trimbach

Alsace, France 1988

{Pierre Schutz}

Lobster in Tamarind Broth with a Date Compote (Serves 6)

Corton-Charlemagne

J-F Coche-Dury

Burgundy, France 1989

ingredients

For the annatto oil:

1/2 cup grapeseed oil

1/2 tablespoon annatto seeds (*)

For the spice mix:

2 whole nutmeg

8 whole allspice (*)

1 vanilla bean, scraped and dried

For the tamarind broth:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 ounce piece galangal, peeled and chopped (**)

3 1/2 ounces ginger, peeled and chopped

Reserved spice mix

2 stalks lemongrass, chopped

1 1/4 cups chicken stock

1 1/2 cups lobster stock

2 tablespoons tamarind paste, dissolved in 2 tablespoons hot water and strained (**)

3 tablespoons reserved annatto oil

1/2 bunch Thai basil stems

Salt and pepper to taste

For the date compote:

6 dates, chopped

5 dried figs, chopped

1/4 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder

Segments of 1 lime

1 tablespoon lime juice

Salt and sugar to taste

For the lobster:

6 1 1/2-pound lobsters

1/2 pound rockweed

For the dish:

Broccolini, blanched (****)

Reserved annatto oil

Lobster roe

For the garnish:

Lime segments

(*.) Available through Spicehouse International Specialties at [phone]

(**.) Available Asian markets.

(***.) Rockweed is commonly shipped with lobsters. Available through Browne Trading at [phone].

(****.) Broccolini is a cross between broccoli and asparagus and is also known as aspiration.

Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone]

Note: Frosted glass sushi plate by Fortessa available through Friend & Co., at [phone].

directions

For the annatto oil, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the oil and annatto seeds to a simmer and maintain the beat for two hours. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and set aside the oil to cool.

For the spice mix, in a spice grinder, combine all of the ingredients and puree to a fine powder. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.

For the tamarind broth, in a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the galangal and ginger and saute for two minutes. Add the reserved spice mix and lemongrass and saute for one minute. Add the chicken stock, lobster stock, tamarind paste, annatto oil and basil stems and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, and simmer until reduced by one third, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, strain though a fine mesh sieve, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the date compote, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the dates, figs, five spice powder, and lime segments to a simmer. Maintain the heat until warmed through, about five minutes. Remove from the heat, add the lime juice, and mix to combine. Season and set aside at room temperature.

For the lobster, bring a large saucepan of water and rockweed to a boil. Add the lobsters and simmer for two minutes. Using metal tongs, transfer the lobsters to an ice bath and maintain the hot water. Remove the tails and claws and discard the bodies. Return the tails and claws to the saucepan and simmer for five minutes. Remove from the beat, strain and shock in an ice bath. Remove the claw meat from the shell and set aside keeping warm. Place the tails on a cutting board and, using a sharp knife, cut the tail in half lengthwise, keeping attached at the shell.

To serve, arrange a lobster tail, some claw meat, and broccolini in the center of a plate. Spoon some tamarind broth over the dish, sprinkle with annatto oil and lobster roe, and garnish with limes. Accompany with date compote.

Cinnamon and Nutmeg Spiced Venison with Kumquat Chutney (serves 6)

Ingredients

For the cabbage:

Leaves of 1 small green cabbage

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

For the kumquats:

1 1/4 cups water

3 ounces granulated sugar

12 kumquats

For the spice mix:

1/2 cinnamon stick, toasted (*)

2 whole nutmeg, toasted

1 tablespoon coriander seeds, toasted

1/2 tablespoon nigella, toasted (**)

1/2 tablespoon black pepper, toasted

For the venison sauce:

2 tablespoons peanut oil

1 pound venison bones

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 shallot, peeled and chopped

1 carrot, peeled and chopped

1 tablespoon reserved spice mix

Salt and pepper to taste

For the kumquat chutney:

6 ounces kumquats, blanched 4 times and cut into thin, 1-inch strips

6 ounces sliced pineapple, cut into thin, 1-inch strips

Juice of 2 oranges

1 tablespoon reserved spice mix

2 tablespoon light brown sugar

1/2 cup Madeua

For the venison:

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 1/2 pounds venison loin 

1 tablespoon reserved spice mix

6 kaffir lime leaves

1 tablespoon Madeira

Reserved jus

Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Cumin leaves (***)

Sage flowers (***)

Spice mix

(*) Chef Schutz uses 18-inch cinnamon sticks from China. Available through Spicehouse International Specialties at [phone].

(**) Nigella are tiny black seeds with a slightly tannic flavor Available through Vans Spices LTD at [phone].

(***) Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].

Note: Kerala square, glass by Fortessa, available through Friend & Co. at [phone].

{Pierre Schutz}

Unico

Vega Sicilia

Ribera del Duero, Spain 1970

directions

For the cabbage, preheat the oven to 225 degrees. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the cabbage leaves and simmer for five minutes. Strain, shock in an ice bath, and pat dry with a paper towel. Place the leaves on a cutting board, remove and discard the center stem, and slice in half. Brush with butter and arrange on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Place in the oven to dry about two hours. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the kumquats, in a medium saucepan, bring all of the ingredients to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until tender about one hour. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and discard the liquid. Transfer half the kumquats to a cutting board, slice thin, and reserve with the remaining kumquats.

For the spice mix, in a spice grinder, combine all of the ingredients and puree to form a fine powder. Transfer to a small bowl and set aside.

For the venison sauce preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a medium roasting pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the venison bones and sear on all sides. Place in the oven to roast until golden brown about 10 minutes. Add the onion, shallot and carrot and toss to coat with oil. Return to the oven and roast until caramelized, about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and place over medium heat. Add the spice mix and cover with water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until reduced by half, about one hour. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and discard the solids. Transfer to a medium saucepan, season, and reserve keeping warm.

For the kumquat chutney, in a medium saucepan, bring all of the ingredients to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by three-fourths, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

For the venison, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a large saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Season and coat the venison with the spice mix. Stud the loin with lime leaves. Sear on all sides, remove from the heat, and place in a roasting pan. Roast until tender, about 10 minutes. De-glaze with the Madeira and some venison sauce. Roast for another five minutes or until desired doneness. Remove from the heat and set aside to rest for five minutes. Place on a cutting board, remove and discard the lime leaves. Cut into thin slices and reserve keeping warm.

To serve, place some venison in the center of a plate and arrange some cabbage leaves, sliced kumquats, kumquat chutney, and a whole kumquat around the dish. Drizzle with venison sauce and garnish with cumin leaves, sage flowers, and spice mix.

Suckling Pig Ribs with Cinnamon Rosemary Jus

(Serves 6)

{Pierre Schutz}

For the stuffed cabbage:

3 quarts water

1 clove

1 sprig rosemary

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

3 Thai chilies, stemmed, seeded, and split (*)

2 kaffir lime leaves

9 sprigs cilantro

1 leek, chopped

1 carrot, peeled and chopped

1 onion, peeled and chopped

1 suckling pig head

2 suckling pig ears

4 suckling pig feet

1 rack suckling pig ribs

2 sprigs Thai basil, chopped

5 sprigs cilantro, stemmed and chopped

1 sprig tarragon, stemmed and chopped

1 garlic chive, stemmed and chopped

5 sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped

6 green cabbage leaves, blanched

6 black truffles

Salt and pepper to taste

For the cinnamon rosemary jus:

1 pound suckling pig bones

2 tablespoons grapeseed oil

3 cloves garlic, peeled

2 tablespoons maple syrup

1 cinnamon stick, broken into small pieces (**)

1 sprig rosemary

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

Salt and pepper to taste

For the salsify:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

6 salsify, peeled

2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced

Salt and pepper to taste

For the ribs:

Reserved rack of ribs

1 1/4 pounds lotus root, peeled and sliced

1 cup reserved jus

For the dish:

Fried lotus root chips

Scallions, sauteed

Baby beets, sauteed

For the garnish:

Garlic roots (***)

Chive blossoms

Sea salt

Rosemary sprigs

(*.) Available in Asian markets.

(**.) Chef Schutz uses 18-inch cinnamon sticks from China. Available through Spice House at [phone].

(***.) Available through The Chef's Garden at [phone].

Note: Glass plates available through Korin Japanese. Trading Corp. at (212) 587-702l.

Clos St. Denis 

Domain Dujar

Burgundy, France 1989

directions

For the stuffed cabbage, in a large saucepan over medium heat, bring the water, clove, rosemary, peppercorns, chilies, lime leaves, four sprigs of the cilantro carrot, onion, leek, head, ears and feet to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the ribs and simmer until tender, about one hour. Remove from the heat and, using metal tongs, transfer the pork head and feet to a cutting board. Transfer the rib to a large sheet pan and reserve. Remove and discard the head and feet bones. Dice the head and foot meat and place in a medium bowl. Add the Thai basil the remaining cilantro, tarragon, chive, and parsley, season, and mix to combine, Place the cabbage leaves on a parchment-lined sheet pan and place a mound of filing in the center of each. Set a truffle in the center and mold the filling to enclose the truffle. Wrap the leaf around the truffle and fold to enclose. Place the stuffed cabbage, seam side down, on the sheet pan and set aside.

For the cinnamon rosemary jus, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a medium roasting pan, liberally coat the bones with grapeseed oil. Place in the oven until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and place over medium heat. Add the garlic, maple syrup, cinnamon, rosemary, and sherry vinegar and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and summer until almost dry, about three minutes. Cover with water, bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until reduced by half, about one hour. Remove from the heat strain through a fine mesh sieve, season, and set aside keeping warm.

For the salsify, in a medium saute pan, heat the butter and oil over medium heat. Add the salsify and garlic and saute until tender, about five minutes. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping warm.

To finish the ribs, preheat the oven to 350 degrees and preheat the broiler to 500 degrees. Season and place the ribs in a medium roasting pan with the lotus root. Place in the oven and roast for 20 minutes, basting occasionally with the jus. Remove from the heat and place the ribs on a sheet pan. Strain the jus through a fine mesh sieve and set aside keeping warm. Place the ribs under the broiler until the skin is crisp, about two minutes. Remove from the heat and place on a cutting board. Slice the rack to separate the ribs and set aside keeping warm.

To finish the stuffed cabbage, prepare a hot steamer. Place the cabbages in the steamer until warmed through, about four minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To serve, arrange some ribs, stuffed cabbage, and some beets in the center of a plate. Arrange some fried lotus root chips and salsify to one side of the plate, spoon some sauce around the dish, and garnish with garlic roots, chive blossoms, sea salt, and rosemary.

Cinnamon Spiked Pear with Honeycomb Sugar (Serves 6)

{Pierre Schutz}

ingredients

For the vanilla ice cream:

1 cup heavy cream

1 1/4 cups whole milk

1 vanilla bean, split

2 ounces granulated sugar

6 egg yolks

For the sugar honeycomb:

Softened butter as needed

12 ounces granulated sugar

1 ounce honey

2 1/4 ounces corn syrup

2 1/2 ounces water

1 tablespoon baking soda 

For the pears:

1 cinnamon stick, cut into slivers (*)

6 Bartlett pears, peeled

5 cups water

1 cup granulated sugar

For the caramel:

4 star anise

4 cloves

2 tablespoons white peppercorns

4 ounces honey

4 ounces unsalted butter

10 ounces creme fraiche

Juice of 1/2 lemon

For the dish:

Pear chips

For the garnish:

Chocolate mint sprigs

(*.) Chef Schutz uses 18-inch cinnamon sticks from China. Available through Spicehouse International Specialties at [phone].

Note: Arla red glass charger available through Friend & Co. at [phone].

directions

For the vanilla ice cream, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the cream, milk, and vanilla bean to a boil. Reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar and egg yolks and whisky until smooth. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered yolks into the hot cream and place over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. When the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon, remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice bath until chilled and freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions.

For the sugar honeycomb, coat a sheet pan with softened butter and set aside. In a medium, covered saucepan bring the sugar, honey, corn syrup, and water to a boil. Maintain the heat until the liquid reaches 300 degrees. Whisk in the baking soda, remove from the heat, pour onto the prepared sheet pan, and, using an offset spatula, spread evenly. Set aside until fully cooled. Break into large pieces and set aside.

For the pears, place two silvers of cinnamon into each pear and set aside. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the pears, water, sugar, and the remaining cinnamon pieces to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the pears are tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, discard the liquid, and, using a slotted spoon, transfer the pears to a parchment-lined sheet pan to cool.

For the caramel, in a spice grinder, combine the star anise, cloves, and white peppercorns and puree to a coarse powder. Place in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the honey and butter and bring to boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for two minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To finish the pears, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Pour 1/2 cup of the caramel over the pears and place in the oven to roast until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

To finish the caramel, in a medium bowl, combine the remaining caramel, creme fraiche and lemon juice and whisk to combine. Reserve keeping chilled.

To serve, place a piece of the honeycomb in the center of a plate, set a pear on top and place a quenelle of ice cream to one side. Spoon some caramel around the dish and garnish with a pear chip and mint.

Chocolate Cinnamon Sticks (Serves 6)

Rieslaner, Trockenbeerenauslese

Musbacher Eselhaut

Franken, Germany 1994

{Pierre Schutz}

ingredients

For the chocolate ice cream:

2 ounces heavy cream

2 cups whole milk

1 tablespoon corn syrup

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 ounces granulated sugar

2 egg yolks

9 ounces milk chocolate, chopped

For the cinnamon sticks:

7 1/4 ounces confectioners' sugar

6 1/4 ounces all-purpose flour

4 1/2 ounces egg whites

8 ounces unsalted butter, melted

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

For the chocolate filling:

6 ounces unsalted butter

6 ounces Valhrona[R] pure caraibes dark chocolate (*)

3 egg yolks

3 eggs

3 ounces granulated sugar

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

For the chocolate sauce:

1 tablespoon heavy cream

4 ounces dark chocolate, finely chopped

For the garnish:

Mint sprigs

(*.) Available though Gourmand at [phone].

Note: Boomerang square plate available through Friend & Co. at [phone].

directions

For the chocolate ice cream, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the cream, milk, corn syrup and butter to a boil Reduce the heat and maintain at a simmer. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar, egg yolks, and chocolate. Temper the egg yolks, adding one-third of the hot cream while whisking constantly. Whisk the tempered yolks into the hot cream and place over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. When the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of the spoon, remove from the heat and strain through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside in an ice bath until chilled and freeze in an ice-cream machine according to the manufacturer's instruction.

For the cinnamon sticks, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. In a medium bowl, combine the sugar, flour, and egg whites and whisk until smooth. Add the butter and cinnamon and whisk to combine. On a silpat-lined sheet pan, form 20 2 x 4 1/2-inch squares. Place in the oven to bake for eight minutes. Remove from the heat, roll each around a pencil to form cinnamon sticks. Arrange on a parchment-lined sheet pan and set aside. Repeat with the additional batter to form 28 additional sticks and set aside.

For the chocolate filling, place the butter and chocolate in a double boiler over medium heat and whisk until smooth. Remove from the heat and reserve keeping warm. In a bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine the egg yolks, eggs, and sugar. Whisk until light, about three minutes. Add the flour and mix until combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl. Add the chocolate mixing and whisk for one minute. Transfer the mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a small round tip and set aside.

For the chocolate sauce, place the heavy cream and chocolate in a double boiler over medium heat and whisk until smooth. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm.

To assemble, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Pipe some of the filling into each chocolate cinnamon stick. Tie seven cinnamon sticks together with butchers' twine and set aside. Repeat to form five more bundles and reserve.

To serve, arrange a bundle and some loose cinnamon sticks in the center of a plate. Set a scoop of ice cream to one side, drizzle some chocolate sauce around the dish, and garnish with mint.