A pearl on the pacific: Mazatlan polishes its growing reputation.

Mazatlan is a laid-back beach resort, better known 50 years ago for its sports fishing than for sunning, surfing and water sports.

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It's here that epic catches of billfish are still the norm, but it is also a working port with a 500-year history and a population of over 600,000, steeped in tradition with a feel of the real Mexico.

Although undeniably popular as a tourist destination, it must be said that Mazatlan owes its existence to local industry. It actually lives independently of tourism; it is a leading manufacturer in the state of Sinaloa in addition to boasting a huge commercial and sportfishing fleet.

Mazatlan is the northernmost major beach area along mainland Mexico's west coast that is washed by the open Pacific Ocean. In addition to boasting the country's longest uninterrupted beach (16 miles), Mazatlan has a well-preserved cultural and historical heritage, making it a favorite destination for both Mexican and international vacationers.

One reason for this beach resort's popularity is Mazatlan's near-perfect climate. The city is located just south of the Tropic of Cancer and is suffused by warm temperatures throughout the year. The ocean breeze moistens the dry air that blows down from the Sonoran Desert to the north.

The coastline is dotted with alluring islands and miles of golden beaches and blue lagoons that carned Mazatlan the nickname "The Pearl of the Pacific."

A splendid variety of hotels, restaurants, shops, cultural activities and nightlife are laid out for the visitor to enjoy between sojourns at the beach. And although its name means "place of the deer," these creatures disappeared long ago.

From Outpost To City

Although it grew to be an important Spanish outpost for transporting gold and silver from nearby mines discovered in the late 18th century, initially there was no real effort to establish a settlement at Mazatlan. In the early 17th century, the settlement had been primarily a home port to support early Spanish exploration of the Baja Peninsula.

In 1585, conquistador Francisco Ibarra founded the mining town of Copala, a few hours east of Mazatlan. Several decades later, Mazatlan was settled as a small village 15 miles south of its present location. Today this site is known as Villa Union.

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Around this time, English and French pirates frequently hid in present-day Mazatlan's protected harbor waiting for Spanish galleons traveling the pearl route to and from La Paz in the Baja Peninsula. In response, the Spanish built a presidio and watchtowers on the surrounding hills, and this was the beginning of Mazatlan as a port. Even though the pirates were gone by 1800, rumors of buried treasures in the caves along the coast still survive.

Following the War of Independence (1811-1821), European businessmen arrived in Mazatlan and quickly set up import-export companies, transforming the city into an international port. It soon became the most important city in northwestern Mexico.

As the city's prominence grew--along with the recognition of the strategic location of the port--it also became a target of several foreign invasions, beginning with the United States in 1847. The U.S. Army stayed eight months, blockading the port during the Mexican-American War.

The French arrived in 1864 when France's Napoleon III sent troops against Mexico and President Benito Juarez. The French eventually installed Ferdinand Maximilian Joseph, Archduke of Austria, as emperor of Mexico and Maximilian's troops occupied Mazatlan until his army was defeated in 1867.

Another phenomenon during the mid-1800s was the arrival of the 49ers on their way to the gold fields of California. Rather than travel the dangerous waters around Cape Horn and the southern tip of Africa, the men found it more convenient and expedient to cut across Mexico on their way to the mines. They made their way to Mazatlan then boarded ships heading up the coast to California.

Many later returned disillusioned after not finding gold. Instead of traveling on to the United States, they settled in Mazatlan, adding to the foreign population already established here.

During the Mexican Revolution in the early 20th century, the port suffered the indignity of becoming the second city in the world to be bombed from an airplane (after Tripoli, Libya).

The Cerro de la Neveria--so named because its caves were used to store ice delivered from San Francisco--was the intended target of the bombing ordered by General Venustiano Carranza. When the Revolution started, the caves were used to store ammunition. A plane sent to bomb the caves missed and inadvertently unloaded its dynamite on a city street, killing several bystanders. Today, iron gates seal off the caves.

Renovation And Revival

When the 1980s arrived, the city fathers were thinking of restoring the downtown called Old Mazatlan, the city's first tourist area and now its cultural center.

It began with the renovation of the neoclassical opera house, the Angela Peralta Theater, named after the famous 19th century Mexican diva--dubbed the "Mexican Nightingale" by a Spanish journalist during one of her several resoundingly successful tours of Europe.

In 1883, Peralta was scheduled to perform in the theater--then known as the Teatro Rubio--having just arrived in town on a ship from Panama. Legend says workmen unhitched her horses from her carriage at the dock and pulled it themselves to her hotel. Touched by this welcome, she gave an impromptu rendition of "La Paloma" to the delight of the crowds below her balcony.

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Unfortunately, the diva also came ashore with yellow fever, which was raging in Panama. She died before her performance and the plague, which by this time had spread throughout the city, decimated the city's population.

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A new multi-million-dollar restoration program was initiated three years ago under the guidance of the Historical Center Project, giving the renovation of Old Mazatlan a shot in the arm. In addition, the local public and private sectors have pooled together a budget of 2 million dollars for tourism promotion.

One such feature of this new investment is the tourism megaproject Marina Mazatlan--comprised of 590 hectares of beach-front property, part of which already features an atracadero (pier) that will have the capacity to house 1,200 boats of up to 150 feet in length.

Many historic buildings are now being converted and restored in an attempt to return them to their former grandeur. In addition, many of the derelict structures around Plazuela Machado, in the heart of downtown, have been transformed into galleries, restaurants, bars and shops, vastly improving the economy of Old Mazatlan.

A new building code also requires all structures be painted in pastel colors for a uniform look. While you're visiting the plaza, don't miss the outstanding Archaeological Museum filled with pre-Hispanic artifacts from the region's Totorames culture and the Art Museum show-casing local and national painters. Both are a few blocks away.

Another must-see Old Mazatlan square is the Plaza de la Republica. This plaza features a turn-of-the-century kiosk in the center of the park and benches for people watching along its rim. The plaza is bordered on one side by the City Hall with its porticos, while the Federal Palace and the cathedral, known as the Basilica de la Inmaculada Concepcion, line two other sides of the square.

The white-towered church was built between 1855 and the mid-1890s, with each successive architect adding his own unique style so that the outcome is a mix of Moorish, neoclassical, baroque and gothic influences. The interior is filled with Italian marble, exquisite chandeliers, cedar and a priceless organ, now under restoration, from Paris.

Plenty Of Sand

Sixteen miles of sandy beaches run north and south along Mazatlan's shoreline with plenty of room for sunbathing, sailing, swimming and even horseback riding.

Playa Norte downtown at the southern end is where locals and small fishing boats gather, a perfect spot to avoid the hotel crowds.

Playa Los Sabalos and Playa Gaviotas in the Golden Zone tourist areas are the most popular, and are filled with beach bars and restaurants and lots of spring breakers when U.S. school vacations roll around.

Some of the last beaches are Playa Cerritos and Playa Delfin, north of the Golden Zone, where there's lots of unspoiled coast and privacy. Stone Island off the downtown coast, is another fine option for seeing a bit of rural life. Boats leave regularly from the ferry dock and tour companies offer day excursions.

Running tandem with Playa Norte is the port's famous malecon, or promenade--13 miles of walkway, which has been newly enlarged and set with attractive colored stones. Food carts and trinket vendors line the malecon, while seafood restaurants do business across the street. A popular time to stroll is around sunset when the sky is ablaze with pink and red.

It's here that you'll also see pulmonias or open-air golf carts with VW engines darting up and down the malecon. These taxis were first introduced in the 1960s and are unique to Mazatlan. They are so popular with tourists that a life-sized monument was dedicated to them in the city center a few years ago.

Views From Above

From the malecon, you can see three hills dotting the landscape. Cerro Vigia was once used by the military as a lookout in the 19th century and the top can be reached by road. From the snack shop on top you can look directly across the bay at Cerro del Creston, which the locals claim is the second-highest lighthouse in the world.

Cerro Vigia has a new statue of singer/actor Pedro Infante, a native son of Mazatlan, on a motorcycle at the entrance to the steep road that climbs to the top of the cerro. The Mexican icon became famous in films of the 1940s and 1950s. It's rumored that the former mayor who commissioned the work had his face sculpted on the statue instead of that of the late singer, which ruffled the feathers of many town folk.

The Cerro del Creston can be hiked along a dirt path to the top, but there's nothing more than the lighthouse at its peak. The third hill, Cerro de la Neveria, is closest to the malecon, and offers a panoramic view of the city. It also has a road winding around to the top.

Fun In The Sun

Unlike the rest of Mexico, baseball is bigger than soccer in Mazatlan. Genuine baseball fever is in the air during the October-February Mexican Pacific League winter season when the Venados de Mazatlan take the diamond.

This past February, the Venados proved their mettle by winning the league championship and then hoisting the Caribbean Baseball World Series trophy, after beating teams from Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic and Venezuela. Dating from 1949, the Serie Caribe showcases the best baseball talent of the Caribbean. Several Mazatlan-born players have made it to the Major Leagues, including Jorge Orta and Carlos Lopez.

Among Mazatlan's seasonal events is Carnival, a moveable feast that usually takes place in February. It's the third largest pre-Lenten festival in the Americas, trailing only the bacchanalian affairs in Rio de Janeiro and New Orleans.

A family-oriented festival with good old-fashioned fun, most events such as the parade of floats take place along the malecon. After dark, people gather in the Olas Altas section of Old Mazatlan for partying and dancing until the wee hours. A citywide fiesta, school children get days off school and banks are closed on the last day of the festival.

Sports fishing, however, is a year-round event. Often called the "Billfish Capital of Mexico," Mazatlan waters teem with striped, black and blue marlin, swordfish, sailfish, dorado, bonita and yellow fin tuna.

In fact, in the 1950s, the first tourists were anglers. The word soon reached Hollywood and celebrities like Lee Marvin, Rock Hudson and John Wayne traveled here on a regular basis to hook the big ones.

Boats with captain and crew can be chartered at either the downtown marina or the newer marinas north of the Golden Zone. In any case, Mazatlan has one of the largest sports fishing fleets in the country. Each year, the El Cid Mega Resort hotel sponsors international billfish tournaments in November or December.

Besides sports fishing, Mazatlan has the largest shrimp industry in Mexico, with hauls brought in each afternoon to be sold at the downtown shrimp market. From market to menu is an easy transition, so you can rest assured you are getting fresh seafood at any of the local restaurants.

Apart from the shrimp, you can dig into other specialties like garlic octopus, fish fillet, smoked marlin, clams and lobster. Of course, the shrimp comes prepared a dozen ways, including in beer batter. Speaking of beer, don't forget to wash down your meal with a Cerveza Pacifico from Mazatlan's own brewery, which also makes Corona beer.

Nearby Attractions

The most popular out-of-town excursions are to the colonial villages of Copala, Concordia and El Rosario, once bustling mining centers.

Filled with cobblestone streets and a church on a hilltop with a view of the valley below, Copala is small and quaint. Concordia has the distinction of having been occupied by the French in the 19th century and has the oldest baroque style church in the state. Nowadays, it's known for its hand-made furniture and pottery.

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El Rosario, south of Mazatlan, was founded later than the other two villages in the 17th century after gold and silver was discovered. It became a boomtown from the riches pouring out of the mines and the mining went on until 1945. Its former prosperity can be seen in the elaborate homes and a beautiful church, which has a floor-to-ceiling gold leaf altar.

Cruise ships from around the world also dock at Mazatlan, which is considered part of the Mexican Riviera. To date, nine different companies make scheduled stops. Besides this, Mazatlan is also a ferry terminal with trips to La Paz on the Baja California Peninsula. The voyage takes around 18 hours one way.

AeroCalifornia and Mexicana have flights from Mexico City to the port. And within two years, superhighways connecting Mazatlan with Guadalajara and Durango should be completed.

Patricia Alisau is a travel writer based in San Antonio, Texas. She lived in Mexico for more than 20 years and still travels extensively throughout the country.

Story and photos by Patricia Alisau