A magical land full of surprises; AlanWeston discovers that Estonia is a bridge between East and West.

Byline: AlanWeston

AMUDDY field in the middle of nowhere is not where you would expect to find a record breaking attempt at the world's longest line dance.

However, the Baltic state of Estonia has a habit of springing often surreal surprises on the visitor.

Estonia has paid a high price over the years for its geographical position as a crossroads between Western and Eastern Europe. For this reason, the history of the state, until recently, has been that of wave upon wave of occupations by neighbouring, stronger states. Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Poland, Russia - they have all at some time claimed the territory as their own, and each have contributed to Estonia's culture.

Now, after decades spent under the yoke of Soviet rule, Estonia is starting to emerge strongly in its own right as a full member of the European Union.

The obvious starting-off point for any visit to the country is the capital city Tallinn, and specifically the Old Town, the historical importance of which was recognised in 1997 when UNESCO added it to its World Heritage List.

Increasing air links and the relatively short travel time means Tallinn is growing in status as an attractive alternative for those wanting to avoid the droves now heading towards other former Soviet bloc cities such as Prague.

The number of visitors is bound to increase still further when Tallinn becomes European Capital of Culture in 2011.

Despite devastating wars throughout its history, the Old Town is one of the few places in Northern Europe where the fairy tale of medieval walls, turrets, spires and winding narrow streets has remained mostly intact. In fact, walking around is a bit like entering a Harry Potter film set and its faux-gothic style.

Here you can find historic buildings galore, including a castle, an authentically Gothic town hall, a thriving market place, churches and cathedrals, such as the Alexander Nevsky cathedral with its onion-shaped cupolas.

Restaurants, such as the Old Hansa, maintain the medieval theme to an almost pedantic degree. Staff dress in period costume, the menu is deliberately designed to evoke the Middle Ages, and the whole place is in semi-darkness with torches the main source of light.

Even though a third of Estonia's 1.3m population lives in the capital, it does not feel crowded - except for tourists - and the roads are mostly free of congestion.

This is even truer out in the unspoilt and often heavily forested countryside.

It was here, close to the country's summer capital of Parnu - around 80 miles from Tallinn - that we encountered the bizarre spectacle of a line dancing festival in a field of mud. This was organised by none other than the English professional dancer and instructor Maggie Gallagher, who travels the world hosting dance workshops and true to form was in the thick of the action at the Estonia event.

TRAVEL FACTS Estonian Air (OV) currently has two services per week (Thurs / Sun) departing from London Gatwick at 6pm and arriving in Tallinn (+2hrs) at 10.55pm. Return flights depart from Tallinn on Thurs / Sun at 4.15pm, arriving Gatwick 5.15pm.

From mid-October OV increases frequency to four times weekly.

Promotional fares start from pounds 66 one way, or pounds 119 return inclusive of all taxes and charges.

For booking details and reservations: Tel [phone].

During his visit, Alan Weston stayed at the following hotels: Meriton Conference & Spa Hotel in Tallinn.

For more information or to book, please contact the hotel at: ([phone] (Telephone) / [e-mail] (email).

Hotel Vila Wesset in Parnu: To book: ([phone] (Telephone) / [e-mail] (email).

Estonia still uses its own currency (the kroon), although Euros are generally accepted at the main hotels in the capital.

For more information on Estonia and its regions, visit the Tourist Board website at www.visitestonia.com

CAPTION(S):

BEAUTIFUL: Tallinn is a city of narrow medieval streets