A closer look at closures: a cork by any name is not the same.

The only thing standing between dining patrons and a glass of wine is the bottle closure. Cork closures were the only game in town for many years, but today there are many different closures on the market, and it is important to know when cork is the better choice from an on-premise perspective and when a cork replacement will fit the bill.

The classic, natural cork enclosure accounts for roughly 70 percent of all wine production, according to APCOR, the Portuguese Cork Association. However, it is estimated that anywhere between two to five percent of all natural cork-finished wines are ruined by trichloroanisole, also known as cork taint, oxidation or TCA for short. Corked wines have been the bane of winemakers, and they are a big part of the impetus to use cork alternatives. Moreover, cork also can crumble or break, causing additional havoc for service staff.

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One of the main advantages of cork from an on-premise perspective, however, is its presentation. Over the years, a ceremony has evolved during the presentation of a bottle of wine. The removal of the cork has become a ritual that allows the guest to inspect it and verify that the wine is in good condition; it is part of the show, part of the wine experience, and cork is an expected actor in that process.

The main replacements for natural cork include synthetic closures and screw-caps. Wineries in Australia and New Zealand were among the first to mass-produce quality wines with screw-cap closures, and today many other regions have followed suit. However, the majority of consumers still prefer wines sealed with a natural cork, presumably both because of tradition and because there's still a concern that wines don't evolve that much in the bottle when sealed with a synthetic closure.

Light-bodied white wines such as pinot grigio and sauvignon blanc are well suited for screw-caps, as they normally are consumed close to bottling. Screw-caps also are a good fit for wines by the glass, as well as for venues where speed is critical, such as concessions, banquets and catering. Despite some remaining doubts that they may cause reductive flavors, screw-caps are often a good option when a ceremonial presentation is not involved.

That said, I believe patrons visit our venues for the total dining experience, and this includes ambience, service and food quality. Opening a cork-enclosed bottle is one of the longstanding ceremonial presentations that allows servers to demonstrate quality service. Where possible, I believe that wines by the bottle should have a natural or synthetic cork to help continue this cherished wine-opening ritual.

David Pennachetti is the founder and president of Wine Guru Services LLC in Dallas. The company provides beverage consulting and educational seminars for the hospitality industry. He can be reached at [e-mail].