A baker's holiday in Germany.

The strong and pleasing aroma of fresh brewed coffee lingers in the air as I lay in bed wondering if I am dreaming or am I really here in Germany? The gentle clatter of china and silverware downstairs and the softly spoken "Deutsche" assures me that I am really here in the land of hearty, dark bread! I can hardly get downstairs fast enough to savor the intense robust flavor of the coffee that the Germans brew so strong.

"Guten morgen" from my husband and I and " Good morning" from my friend Anke and her husband Michel. The coffee is as rich and satisfying as I remember it being 12 years ago and the traditional German breakfast of fresh bread little hard rolls), assorted cheeses, mustard, thinly sliced meats, jams and pickles is no less satisfying.

I was very intrigued by the assortment and texture of the colorful breads. Some were very dark, pumpernickel perhaps. Some were very seedy and rough, including several with toasted pumpkin seeds on top -- these were my favorite.

Anke explained to me that most Germans go down to the corner bakery (backerei) for fresh bread every day. When Jim and I walked to the backerei one morning, it was clearly the busiest place in town at 6:30 a.m. This very small and simple bakery had such an impressive assortment of loaves of bread, rolls, pastries, cakes and fancy desserts that it would make some large scale American bakeries ashamed of their lack of colors and textures of their breads and rolls.

One of my goals while visiting Germany was to explore as many bakeries as I could and to try, with what little German I know, to discover some of the tricks of their trade.

I soon discovered that some of the darker breads were baked very slow for long periods of time using a sourdough starter -- perhaps even a rye starter. This produces a thick and chewy loaf of bread that stays fresher longer.

Some of the shapes and types of bread are indigenous to certain locales. For instance, while visiting the beautiful city of Munster, we noticed very large circular mounds of dark bread in almost every bakery. I was also able to find this same bread in Frankfurt at a beautiful bakery in old Sachsenhausen. Also in this bakery were baguettes which I thought to be unusual for a German bakery to have.

My excitement with exploring these wonderful bakeries came to a peak when we entered the Black Forest and I found some Schwarzwalder Bauerbrot or dark farm bread which is also indigenous to the Black Forest region. This same backerei had some kamut bread which was satisfying as well.

Of course the pastries and cakes were to die for and being that we were in the middle of the strawberry season there were strawberry cakes and pastries in every bakery! It was hard to decide what to eat whenever we were in a cafe but whatever we chose was always satisfying and never too sweet. Black Forest cherry torte tempted our taste buds through the scrupulously cleaned glass display cases of every backerei we entered. (I found no dust in Germany, and believe me, I looked in every restaurant and store that I could!) Of course we gave in and were not disappointed!

Early one morning, Jim and I enjoyed (well, at least I did, I'm sure he would have rather been golfing) observing a German baker and his staff busily preparing the day's breads and pastries in the charming village of Drensteinfurt. The bakers pulled crusty-brown, oval loaves out of the ovens by means of a long wooden paddle and then sprayed the loaves with water to produce a shiny crust. There were little cut out bears made of bread dough with raisin eyes that were prepared special for some children! Machines mixed and rolled the dough into various lengths and then some were cut into stars and filled with ruby colored jam or vanilla pudding. Customers were coming and going. Some had hurried looks on their faces, but most were taking their time, catching up on the local news or weather. It really amazed us that such a small town had so much activity bustling around a bakery, of all things!

This probably comes as no surprise to any German readers, as I came to realize that most villages and towns have bakeries. In our fast-paced world of strip malls and convenience food marts, the baker has been replaced by commercially prepared quick frozen, chemical laden donuts, pies, cookies and breads. The county I live in has a population of over 60,000 and we have no bakeries that bake healthy and hearty whole grain breads.

One of my favorite brotchens was the roggenbrot or rye brotchen. These were made into little squares and looked very dense and tan colored. The taste was slightly sweeter than most of the breads I had tasted and biscuit like in texture. It was wunderbar (wonderful)! Most of the rye bread that we get here in the U. S. is white bread with caramel coloring added and if you are lucky a little rye flour!

In only a few bakeries did I notice sandwich type breads that were baked in loaf pans. Most of the breads of Europe are baked free form, thus allowing the bread to stay fresher longer while promoting a thick and chewy crust.

Our friends wanted to know what baked goods were popular in America. We told them that cookies, lots of cookies in all shapes, colors, sizes and flavors -- especially chocolate chip, peanut butter and oatmeal raisin -- were available in almost any American bakery. We did not see any cookies in the bakeries except for fat, frosted bagel-without-the-hole type things that didn't even look like cookies. I was told that these were "American " cookies. I don't think so!

We also told them that muffins were very popular in all sorts of flavors -- blueberry, raspberry and banana being some of our favorites. Our friends were not familiar with muffins but we managed to find some in a quaint little bakery in Munster. These muffins had an American flag stuck in the top of the crust for the Fourth of july and were made with fresh red currants. I made these when I got back home to Indiana and they were a hit with my children and very pretty as well.

We also told them that bagels, (or, for lack of a better definition, chewy boiled and baked brotchens with a hole in the center) were quite popular in many bakeries here and although my German friends have never tasted a bagel before (and probably never care to after that definition) I told them that they were not alone as I also know an American that never has either!

The thick and hearty muesli that we were served at the Cafe journal in Heidelberg was very satisfying and fresh tasting; the combination of flaked rye, oats and chopped raisins and sunflower seeds and other grains kept us satisfied right up until lunchtime. The only drawback to me was having it served with warm milk!

Jim and I have come to learn a new appreciation for such a simple meal: cheese and bread. Of course, this isn't any cheese (like Velveeta) or any bread (like Wonder) but some very thinly sliced emmantaler, gouda, or the very popular and slightly woodsy smelling brie, along with some hearty whole grain breads. It makes for a very satisfying meal.

We have this quite often at home now and sometimes add fresh fruit and muffins. It's surprisingly quick if all of the cheese and meat are presliced the night before. You don't need much. just a slice of emmantaler, and a thin slice of salami or Black Forest ham or the meat of your choice and a little mustard and some strong black coffee and you are on your way to enjoying a deliciously simple European breakfast. Good quality soft brie cheese is wonderful alone on bread or spread with jam on top.

And of course I wouldn't do this article justice without mentioning the wonderful smooth and chocolatey nutella! Spread generously on bread or tucked inside a warm crepe, this hazelnut flavored chocolate spread is simply sublime. If only they would team it up with peanut butter... what a marriage that would be!

Here is a recipe I came up with that is reminiscent of the hearty farm breads and brotchen of Germany. This bread keeps very well, 4-5 days, without much crumbling.

Hearty farm bread with mixed grains and seeds (Bauerbrot)

5 pounds hard red wheat flour
5 cups rye flour
1 cup toasted sunflower seeds
1 cup toasted pumpkin seeds

In bowl of electric mixer with dough hook attachment, or large bowl if kneading by hand, place:

6 cups hot water  135 [degrees] F to 140 [degrees] F if
using SAF yeast or 115'F if using
regular yeast)
2/3 cup raw honey
1/4 cup lecithin granules or oil

In order given add:

3 cups red wheat flour
3 cups rye flour
1-1/2 cups flax meal (may grind this
in a coffee mill or blender)
1/3 cup whole flax seed
3 tablespoons SAF yeast or 5
packages of regular yeast(*)
3 tablespoons dough enhancer or 1
crushed vitamin C tablet (optional:
this helps to make a higher
rising and lighter dough)
2 tablespoons sea salt

Slightly mix the above and let it sit until double in size (approximately

20-30 minutes) then add enough of the remaining flour to make a smooth and elastic dough by kneading 15-20 minutes by hand or 8-10 minutes in the mixer. After the dough is properly kneaded, it should stretch easily and show little "windows " or thinner parts of the dough that you can see through. This is the gluten or " glue " that holds the bread together. If your bread just pulls apart then it is either under-kneaded or over-kneaded. However, it is very hard to over-knead bread dough by hand.

Let the dough rise until double (30-60 minutes) and then punch it down. This step is not necessary when using the electric kneader unless you like a real tender bread; however, I prefer to punch this particular recipe down.

Preheat your oven to 375 [degrees] F and place a baking stone inside. This produces a crispier crust. A greased or floured cookie sheet will do, but don't preheat it: just let your dough rise directly on it.

After the dough has doubled in size, punch it down and shape it into round mounds or individual little brotchen or rolls. Roll the tops in the remaining 2 cups of rye flour and slightly press down into the roasted sunflower and pumpkin seeds. Slash the tops with a sharp knife and place on a well floured wooden pizza paddle or kitchen counter and cover with a light tea towel. Let rise until double in size (1 5-45 minutes) and gently transfer to preheated baking stone that has been generously dusted with flour.

For rolls (brotchen), just shape dough into golf ball sized balls and place on greased cookie sheets or flour-dusted pizza paddle or counter.

For a crispier crust, throw a cup of cold water in the oven and quickly but gently close the oven door. Bake for 20-30 minutes. (Rolls take less time, approximately 18-20 minutes, depending on the size.) Be sure to throw a cup of cold water into the oven every 5-10 minutes or until bread is well browned and hollow sounding when tapped. Cool on wire rack and enjoy!

This bread freezes well. I use extra-heavy-duty freezer bags (or you may double bag). To reheat, just wrap frozen or thawed bread in foil or parchment paper and place in a preheated 350'F oven for 20-25 minutes for frozen or 10 minutes for thawed. You will have a surprisingly fresh and crispy loaf of bread to serve!

Pretzels (brezeln) abound everywhere in Germany and make a wonderful midmorning or afternoon snack. Although this next recipe is not exactly like the large and chewy pretzels found in many German bakeries, it can hold its own due to the wonderful flavor imparted from using whole wheat flour and by brushing melted butter on top. These are a favorite at our house and I don't know if they freeze well, as they have never been around long enough for us to find out!

Buttery soft pretzels (Brezeln)

6 cups fresh milled Prairie Gold hard
whole wheat flour'
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons dough enhancer (option)
2 tablespoons honey
1-1/2 tablespoons SAF yeast
2 tablespoons powdered milk
2 cups hot water 135'-140' F

In bowl place water, honey, a n d 3 cups of the flour. Add yeast, salt and dough enhancer on top and mix. Add enough remaining flour until dough starts to clean sides of the bowl. Knead for 8-10 minutes in the mixer or 15 -20 minutes by hand. Cover dough and let rest for 30 minutes.

Divide into 16 pieces, shape and dip into the pretzel wash and place on greased parchment lined cookie sheets. Sprinkle with coarse salt (lightly, a little bit goes a long way!).

Cover and let rise until double and bake at 500 [degrees] F for about 10 minutes. Do not overbake. This is the secret!

Place on wire racks to cool and brush with plenty of melted butter. These are good sprinkled with cinnamon sugar over the melted butter. Omit coarse salt if you plan to do cinnamon pretzels. These keep about two days. Serve with plenty of sweet mustard.

Pretzel wash

1 cup warm water
1/4 cup baking soda

Mix thoroughly in shallow bowl.

Notes:

* SAF yeast is a professional bakers' yeast and is now available to the general baking public in some specialty or grocery stores in 1 pound packages. It does not need to be proofed. It has more live cells than regular yeast, therefore you use about 1/3 less. I use 2-3 tablespoons for 10 pounds of bread dough. If you use 2 tablespoons it will take longer for the bread to rise but I feel what you lose in time you gain in flavor so if you are not in a hurry then opt for the longer rise: the flavor is worth it!

SAF yeast must not be added directly to the water or it will die. Be sure to place it on top of the flour when adding it.

If using regular yeast, be sure that your water is between 110 [degrees] F -- 115 [degrees] F. Add the yeast directly to the water and about 1 teaspoon of honey or sugar and let it sit or proof for about 15 minutes. The mixture should be bubbly. If it is not, throw it out and buy some new yeast.

** Dough enhancer is a natural dough conditioner consisting of whey powder, vitamin C and tofu powder. It helps to lighten up the loaf and ensures a higher rising. It also helps to extend the shelf life of the bread if it is around long enough to last! This is an optional ingredient. A crushed vitamin C tablet produces similar results although will not help to preserve the loaf.

*** Prairie Gold flour is a high gluten hard Spring wheat grown in the mountains and v alleys of Montana. It is ideal for baking bread.

If you don't have access to high gluten hard whole wheat flour, then mix your whole wheat with half white flour or add 1/4 - 1/3 cup vital gluten to lighten up the loaf. It is always better to use a high gluten flour for bread baking as the gluten acts as glue to hold the bread together. It stretches like bubble gum and forms little bubbles when carbon dioxide gas is released inside the bread from the yeast interacting with the proteins in the wheat.

If you use a nonglutenous flour such as barley, rye, corn, rice or millet, then no matter how much yeast you use, you will not get a bread that rises unless you add gluten or Gluten may be purchased at health food stores or food co-ops.

If you have trouble getting your bread to rise, it could be your flour or grain. There are over 30,000 different varieties of wheat but there are two categories that are worth knowing about: hard and soft. Hard is the high-gluten wheat used for baking with yeast. Soft pastry wheat is best suited for non-yeasted baked goods such as muffins, pancakes, cookies etc. If you are used to eating whole wheat baked goods then you may find that you prefer to use a hard wheat in all of your baked goods, as we do. But pastry wheat may not be used to bake bread, as it will turn out real heavy and crumbly due to the lack of gluten.

This bread is easy, fast, versatile and delicious

Teresa Turner RR 1 Box 292-S Hawkins TX 75765

I make this bread on a regular basis and not only is it good -- it is simple and very versatile. You can give bread a different taste for each meal just by adding a few additional ingredients.

I sometimes roll out the dough and sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar, then roll it up and proceed to make a very easy cinnamon bread. Or after I removing from the oven, I brush with melted butter (oil works) and sprinkle with various herbs (basil, sage, garlic, caraway or oregano are good ones to try.) I make an Italian seasoning blend with herbs from the herb garden and this mixture is sprinkled on top to make a mild flavored Italian bread to go with spaghetti, etc. My husband's favorite way is brushed with butter then lightly sprinkled with sugar.

Since it is a "three cup of flour" recipe, it is best to use a standard loaf pan (8-1/2 x 4-1/2 inches) to produce a high-domed loaf. I also have used my stainless steel mixing bowls (7 inches in diameter) to bake round loaves. I can start this two hours before meal time and serve it warm from the oven. Everyone loves it.

Quick rise gratification bread

1 cup whole wheat flour
2 cups white flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1- 1/4 cups water (warm -- 110 [degrees]-120 [degrees])
2-1/4 teaspoons yeast (calls for Rapid
Rise, but I've used all kinds)
1 tablespoon brown sugar (honey
works well also)

Mix the flours and salt together in a large bowl. In a separate bowl (I use a 2-cup measuring cup) put 1- 1/4 cups of warm water, sprinkle yeast over water and add brown sugar. Then stir until all is dissolved. Pour the liquid into the flour mixture and stir until dough starts pulling away from t sides of the bowl.

With floured hands knead doug (right in the bowl) for five minute Cover with a damp towel and let rise in warm spot for 45 minutes or until doubled in size.

Punch the dough down and turn onto a floured surface and knead 10-12 times. Then shape into loaf an place in a greased loaf pan and let rise again for 35-40 minutes.

Use a sharp knife to gently make three slits diagonally to allow steam to escape. Bake in a 400' oven for 3 minutes or until crust is golden. Remove onto wire rack, brush with oil or melted butter and let cool.

At my house it is usually half gone by the time it cools. My husband an son love it hot from the oven. Leftover slices make excellent toast.