A WALK IN THE CLOUDS; YOSEMITE OFFERS HIKERS MORE THAN JUST A VIEW.

Byline: Terry Wood Special to the Daily News

Visitors familiar with Yosemite National Park know that one of the best views of its namesake valley can be found atop 7,214-foot Glacier Point.

The broad granite pedestal allows brave sightseers to curl their toes over the lip of a sheer rock wall that rises more than 3,000 feet from the famous Yosemite Valley floor.

Park guests will also acknowledge that the most sensible way to approach this high-elevation, visually opulent viewpoint is to drive.

For your next trip, here's a more challenging option to consider: Walk to it along the splendid Four-Mile Trail.

Set your mind and body for an elevation gain of more than 3,200 feet and some highly rewarding huffing and puffing during a 9.2-mile round-trip that can be covered in half a day.

Rerouted slightly and extended in 1929, the Four-Mile Trail is actually 4.6 miles in length, but the name remains unchanged.

From its trailhead along Yosemite Valley's Southside Drive, the track is replete with tight switchbacks and long pulls up lengthy inclines. All, however, are well-graded and not overly daunting to reasonably fit hikers. Some trickles of water are passed along the route, but it is wise to carry at least two quarts.

Views are swell at the onset and only get better. Yosemite Falls can be seen across the valley and becomes more and more impressive as one climbs. Ahead, El Capitan and Three Brothers begin framing superb views to the west. All will become friendly companions as you pause for breathers.

A major bonus is that only occasionally are other hikers encountered, giving you a rarely experienced sense of solitude and quiet when observing Yosemite's most famous landmarks. Gradually, most of the sounds of traffic below and the occasional ``wahoo'' of inner tubers floating down the Merced River become muffled and then inaudible.

About three-fifths of the way to the crest, trekkers arrive at an area identified on maps as Union Point, although it is not officially designated by a trailside sign or marker.

Perhaps it refers to a glorious bend in the trail that affords one of the most beautiful sight lines of Half Dome, fully exposing its sheer western face (most lovely in afternoon light) while highlighting its massive, rounded shoulders and distinguished summit.

Union Point alone is worth the walk. The northeasterly view into richly forested Tenaya Canyon compel one to sit and contemplate the scene's endless beauty. The chasm stretches below the expansive granite walls of Half Dome and Clouds Rest; North Dome and Basket Dome adorn the canyon's northwestern flank. The stillness is quite a contrast to the busy destination above.

Glacier Point, where new visitor and concession facilities are under construction, often is swarming with bus groups and noisy crowds, but the vistas are superlative nonetheless. You might wish to spend only a brief time here before deciding how to spend the rest of your day.

If the summit is conquered early, hikers can opt to follow the Pohono Trail from the east end of the Glacier Point parking lot and hoof another 3 miles to Taft Point, then retrace their steps. Taft is, essentially, a hikers-only Glacier Point, but the offshoot to it makes the day's round-trip from the valley about 10.6 miles.

The truly ambitious can descend back to the valley along the 9.1-mile Panorama Trail, a grand pathway that leads past superb vantages of Illilouette, Nevada and Vernal falls before arriving at Happy Isles. Following the 13.7-mile adventure, hikers can catch a shuttle bus back to Four-Mile Trail.

Most walkers, however, will simply return from Glacier Point the way they came.

It is also feasible to buy a ticket for a one-way bus ride from Yosemite Valley to Glacier Point and just hike down the Four-Mile Trail.

Photographers probably will choose to make the journey in the afternoon light, when views into Tenaya Canyon are most dramatic. El Capitan, however, shows off its best features in the morning.

Regardless of the time of day, for those weary of congested drive-up viewpoints, the Four-Mile Trail is a fine way to discover a little touch of solitude in a remarkably beautiful place.

IF YOU'RE GOING...

Entering Yosemite National Park by vehicle costs $20, which is good for a week's stay.

The Four-Mile Trail begins adjacent to Yosemite Valley's Southside Drive (the eastbound, one-way route), midway between Sentinel Beach and the Swinging Bridge picnic area. It is possible to parallel park along the road near the trailhead.

Hikers can also take the shuttle bus and depart at stop 11, near the Chapel. Walk to the Chapel parking lot. At the rear you will find a footpath leading to the south-side Valley Trail. Turn right and follow this sandy path a half-mile to its junction with the Four-Mile Trail.

One can cover this easy-to-follow route simply using hand-out maps available at park facilities. For details, select the Yosemite 15-minute series topo or one of numerous other maps that contour Yosemite National Park and its high country.

Note to the parched: The water fountains at Glacier Point sometimes barely exceed a trickle; ask snack bar employees to use a spigot to refill water bottles.

For Yosemite National Park information, call [phone]. Internet access is available via www.nps.gov/yose/.

CAPTION(S):

Photo, Box, Map

Photo: (color) Hikers who take a breather at Union Point along Yosemite National Park's Four-Mile Trail will spy Half Dome towering above plush Tenaya Canyon.

Terry Wood / Special to the Daily News

Box: IF YOU'RE GOING... (see text)

Map: FOUR-MILE TRAIL IN YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK