A TOUCH OF SIMI TRENDINESS.

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant Critic

SIMI VALLEY now has a restaurant with a bit of pizazz.

Though it's a shopping center storefront dinery, the new Bluefin Grill & Sushi gives the outer 'burbs a touch of trendiness.

Utilizing the broadest appeal possible, Bluefin combines the comforts of well-executed pastas, attractive salads and mainstream favorites like rack of lamb and chicken piccata with a strong Asian leaning in both appetizers and additional entrees along with a full-range sushi bar.

Big, deep, white bowls and oversize white plates hold the nicely arranged fare, whether it's a simple, generously cut wedge of iceberg dripping with a pleasingly tart, crumbled bleu cheese dressing ($4) or a juicy, full rack of lamb (eight thick chops on a bed of veggies, $17).

Regarding the latter, order the rack medium rare or rare, because the kitchen is inclined to cook the chops a little more than you might want.

But rest assured, this dish could easily be ticketed at $10 higher in an uptown restaurant.

As for the tender-meat fancier, he or she couldn't do better than choosing Bluefin's rendition of Mongolian beef ($12), where soy-soaked slices of steak, buoyed with garlic and scallions, provide a warming entree option.

Or one could pick an appetizer portion of meaty ribs ($6.50), cooked in the wok with a definitively sweet Asian barbecue sauce.

From the assertive to the mild.

Subtly flavored chicken piccata ($14), lightly battered, nicely tender and moist, arrives at the Bluefin table with perfectly cooked al dente noodles lightly bathed in garlic and oil.

And half a dozen New Zealand green-lip mussels ($7.50) come forth gently steamed and delivered in a light oyster sauce.

For diners who like modern, refreshing salads with interesting flavors and no lettuce, I heartily suggest the arugula recipe ($6), neatly enhanced with mango, candied pecans, goat cheese and a Banyuls shallot vinaigrette dressing.

But no menu dare show up around the suburbs or anywhere these days without some form of a Chinese chicken salad.

Bluefin's contribution ($10) presents a melange of napa cabbage, lettuce, carrots, bok choy, snow peas and crispy fried wontons with a sesame dressing, oil-free if you prefer, or slightly creamy.

Not particularly innovative but workmanlike and satisfying.

And that's the story here.

You'll find food that's already passed the popularity test elsewhere but which shows up here presented with a touch of flair.

Like the baked Alaska ($6), rarely seen on today's dessert lists but materializing here at Bluefin as a triumph of moist meringue and layered ice creams, standing tall and erect on a large white platter daubed with vanilla sauce.

Or the even more dramatic ``monster,'' ($10) an off-menu presentation of banana, ice cream, fudge cookies, chocolate syrup and whipped cream in a giant martini glass that's big enough to take a half gainer with a full twist dive, or frenetic spooning by a party of five or more.

Larry Lipson, [phone]

larry.lipson(at)dailynews.com

BLUEFIN GRILL & SUSHI

Food: Three stars - Wine: Two stars - Service: Three stars

Where: 1230 Madera Road, Simi Valley.

Hours: Open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and for dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. daily.

Recommended items: Blue wedge salad, arugula and mango salad, Asian spare rib, Mongolian beef, grilled rack of lamb, baked Alaska, ``monster'' dessert.

How much: Starters from $2 to $9, main-course salads from $7 to $14, pastas and entrees from $8 to $18, desserts from $4 to $6. Beer and wine. All major credit cards accepted.

Wine list: Reasonably priced bottlings on limited list. Also beers and sake. Corkage: $8.

Reservations: Not taken. First come, first served. Information: [phone].

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Photo:

Rasta spicy tuna tempura is among the dishes bringing a new taste to Simi Valley at Bluefin Grill & Sushi, where Asian-influenced items can be paired with pastas and salads.

Gus Ruelas/Staff Photographer