A SLICE OF GOOD VIBRATIONS AT BJ'S.

Byline: Larry Lipson Daily News Restaurant Critic

The new BJ's Pizza Grill & Brewery in Woodland Hills is one of those places that is so busy, they take your name and give you a contraption that informs you when your table is ready by vibrating and rapidly flashing several small red lights.

Actually, the whole facility vibrates constantly.

It's the sprawling, freestanding building on Canoga Avenue near Victory that was a Red Onion for a long time and most recently Presidente.

They were Mexican margarita emporiums. As BJ's it has an entirely different personality.

Part of a 29-location chain in five states, BJ's has spent a lot of money here renovating the entire structure, giving it an airy open feeling, woody and rustic throughout, featuring several eating areas, an impressively long bar and a glass-enclosed, gleaming, functional brewery.

What makes it vibrate, though, is the throbbing rock music and large, noisy crowd of revelers, mostly around the bar, munching deep-dish, Chicago-style pizzas or other beer-compatible noshes while sipping or gulping one or more of the seven or eight available brews produced by BJ's very own brew masters.

Beer fanciers will enjoy the good-deal introduction to BJ's foamy selections, a seven-glass sampler, five ounces in each glass, totaling a mere $6.50.

The server will line them up, basically light to dark, left to right, with the logo and description of each conveniently noted on a plastic-coated rectangular aid that you can place behind or in front of your beers while you taste and compare them.

I enjoyed six of them, especially the Jeremiah Red, an Irish-style ale with robust fruity, malty flavors, and Piranha pale ale, a clean, refreshing, well-crafted brew.

But BJ's wheat beer had an odd taste, tart and metallic, that I didn't like.

For those who like pizza with their beer, the house special topped with meatballs, pepperoni, Italian sausage, mushrooms, green pepper, black olives and white onions (small, $10.80) presents four thick wedges.

A lighter, but full-flavored one at the same price is the spinach and artichoke pizza.

This topping provides a tasty appetizer dip ($6.95) that arrives with tortilla chips.

In the same way the tri-pepper sausages can be ordered on a pizza or separately as a starter item with peppers, onions and a beer-tinged mustard sauce.

Portions are always big enough to share, particularly those termed beginnings.

Regular bowls of soup, for example, are much larger than expected. And they're pretty good, too.

The minestrone is a dark and rich vegetable mixture ($2.25) and the clam chowder ($3.25), though a bit thicker than necessary, offers plenty of chewable clam pieces in a well-seasoned potato and onion mixture.

A fish and chips dish ($8.95) with nicely executed fries and flaky cod, each piece caped in a feathery BJ's blond ale-enhanced batter, is perhaps the best entree deal here.

Chopped salads ($5.95 and $7.95) are respectable, burgers (around $6 each) come forth as pleasing half-pounders with thick, seasoned fries (or half a baked potato), and beer-flavored chili and beans ($2.95) provides another gratifying brew accompaniment.

Fettuccine with shrimp or chicken in a sprightly Cajun sauce receives my nod as the pasta of choice ($9.95 or $10.95) to go with beer. And you'll certainly find a healthy portion of it on your plate.

Ribs have received the most criticism of the dishes tried to date. One time they were obviously hard and chewy, another time more crunchy than chewy. However, the rack (or half rack) of baby-backs ($6.95 to $14.95) was pronounced good-tasting both times, evidently the result of being brushed with BJ's amenably flavored, beer-infused barbecue sauce.

Roasted chicken (with ribs or alone, $13.95) gets a positive nod for its gratifying juiciness and proper texture. And New York steak ($15.95) in a red wine and mushroom sauce is satisfactory, though hardly compelling.

The staff makes a big thing of the freshly baked cookie in a pan called ``pizookie'' ($3.95) and deservedly so.

Get it half chocolate chunk and half white chocolate and macadamia nut and you'll love it.

It arrives topped with vanilla bean ice cream and is big enough to share.

A meal here needs patience because there are periods of waiting, sometimes quite prolonged.

And unless you don't mind mucho noise, stay well away from the main bar area.

But the food generally rates from passable to rather good, is always plentiful and reasonably priced.

Service can be spotty. But the large staff is young, enthusiastic and, hopefully, learning fast.

Meanwhile, grab your flashing gizmo and have a good time.

THE FACTS

The restaurant: BJ's Pizza, Grill & Brewery.

Where: 6424 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills.

When: Open for lunch, dinner, snacks and cocktails from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily, to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday.

Recommended items: ``Together at last'' appetizer of bruschetta and spinach-artichoke dip, tri-pepper sausage, minestrone or clam chowder, chili, beer batter fish 'n' chips, Frisco burger, ribs and chicken combo, Cajun shrimp or chicken pasta, pizookie dessert, seven-glass brew sampler.

How much: Starters from $2.25 to $6.25, pizzas and sandwiches from $4.75 to $18.65, pastas and entrees from $7.45 to $16, desserts from $4 to $6. BJ's beers from $3 a pint.

Wine list: Minimal wines - best off with beer here.

Reservations: Only for parties of 10 or more. Call [phone].

Our rating: Three stars for food; Two and one half stars for service; Three stars for value.

CAPTION(S):

Photo

Photo: BJ's general manager Steve Kane, left, and assistant general manager Danny O'Malley offer, respectively, the restaurant's food and beverage specialties.

John Lazar/Daily News