A ROMANTIC DINNER FOR TWO?

Byline: Larry Lipson Restaurant critic

Real lovers, would-be lovers and other romantically inclined types will jam restaurants Wednesday when the annual day for showing affection comes around.

Here are a few options to consider, bearing in mind that tables are filling fast and that some of the more popular dining rooms could be fully booked by the time you read this.

So act fast, or your relationship may suffer.

USUAL SUSPECTS: Obvious romantic dining rooms like Le Chardonnay and the Bistro Garden are worth a shot. Le Chardonnay, 8284 Melrose Ave., offers a four-course dinner for $55. Information and reservations: [phone]. Bistro Garden, 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, has a three-course prix-fixe meal with a glass of champagne and a rose (for the lady) for $65 per person. Reservations needed: [phone].

NOT THE EMPTY ARMS: Hotel allures include a seven-course meal based on ``Intercourses: An Aphrodisiac Cookbook,'' plus an autographed copy of the book for $125 per couple at the Grille of the Fairmont Miramar, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, [phone]. Or there's a two-night Dom Perignon package that includes meals, a cooking class, massages and loads of Dom bubbly for $2,001 per couple or the single-night version of room, breakfast and Dom for a mere $575 per couple, at the Ritz-Carlton, Laguna Niguel. Information: [phone].

IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD: Closer to home, there's the historic Manor Hotel's Renaissance, 5930 Franklin Ave., Hollywood, with a special a la carte menu featuring Beluga caviar ($100 per ounce) and a buffalo chateaubriand for two ($60) and the regular menu. Details and reservations: [phone]. Also worth consideration are the four options at the Omni downtown, [phone]; the Century Plaza in Century City and its new Breeze restaurant, [phone]; the downtown New Otani's Thousand Cranes restaurant, [phone]; the Polo Lounge of the Beverly Hills Hotel, [phone]; and the Belvedere at the Peninsula in Beverly Hills, [phone].

MAIS OUI: For French fare, Bouchon, 7661 Melrose Ave., has a three-course bistro dinner for $35. Call [phone]. ... Le Sanglier, 5522 Crebs Ave., Tarzana, [phone], wants $58 for its three-course prix-fixe with six options for each course. ... Wine Bistro, 11915 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, [phone], has a similar $55 set meal with a variety of options. ... Le Petit Bistro, 13360 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, [phone], adds four entree specials and both its sister Bistro (631 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310-289-9797) and Le Petit Zinc (11829 Wilshire Blvd., West Los Angeles, 310-575-3777) will have three special main courses. ... Santa Monica's Melisse, 1104 Wilshire Blvd., [phone], offers a four-course dinner for $95, while West L.A.'s La Cachette, 10506 Santa Monica Blvd., [phone], also promises four courses, but at $75. And Taix, near downtown at 1911 Sunset Blvd., [phone], is featuring three dinners that include soup, salad and dessert, priced from $16 to $20 each.

ETC.: Those heart-shaped pizzas are available at Sisley Italian Kitchens, 15300 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, [phone], also in Valencia, West L.A. and Thousand Oaks. ... There's a nifty, personalized wine bottle deal at Piero's, 2825 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, [phone].

The best bargain on the Westside for romantics could be at Bistro Italia, 8635 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, [phone], with its bounteous four-course dinner plus coffee for $26.50. ... Three pounds of catfish ($21) or lobster ($50 per couple) is yours at Typhoon, 3221 Donald Douglas Loop South in the Santa Monica Airport, [phone]. ... Wonton-wrapped Maine Lobster and other goodies at the hot, hip Sunset Room, 1430 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, [phone], runs $100 per couple.

Greek dinners for two ($46 to $52 total) plus a chocolate rose draws interest to the Greek Bistro, 17337 Ventura Blvd., Encino, [phone]. ... Stone crabs and prime rib are the top choices at the Buggy Whip, 7420 La Tijera Blvd., Westchester, [phone]. ... Two filet mignon and lobster tail dinners with wine are tabbed at $60 a person at the 94th Aero Squadron, 16320 Raymer St., Van Nuys, [phone]. ... Upscale, Latin-accented food plus good music should draw well at both Ciudad, 445 S. Figueroa St., downtown, [phone], and La Boca del Conga (also sporting a Valentine's Day lunch debut), 5370 Wilshire Blvd., [phone].

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For Valentine's Day, Sisley Italian Kitchens offers its famous heart-shaped pizzas, including variations with eggplant, artichoke hearts, hearts of palm and sun-dried tomatoes, left; goat cheese, center; and barbecued chicken.

Charlotte Schmid-Maybach/Staff Photographer