A MATTER OF TASTE EXOTIC SPICES GAIN FAVOR FOR THEIR ADDED FLAVOR.

Byline: Natalie Haughton Food Editor

Hot spices, spice blends and more exotic spices are chic and trendy these days. And it's no longer necessary for cooks to make a trip to specialty ethnic markets to find many of them.

Garam masala, freeze-dried lemon grass stalks, wasabi powder, red curry powder, ground chipotle chile pepper, ground pasilla chile pepper and French lavender are just a few of the relative newcomers to the ranks of mainstream spices and seasonings on supermarket shelves.

Influenced by ethnic cuisines, restaurant menu items, travel and demographics, Americans have developed a love affair for bold and interesting flavors, notes Laurie Harrsen, director of public relations, McCormick & Co. Inc. So it's not surprising that spice consumption has almost doubled in the past two decades - going from 2 pounds per capita consumed in 1980 to 3.7 pounds in 2000.

``Spices give food depth, character, aroma and, above all, taste. Used in both savory and sweet dishes, spices offer you a wide range of flavors to choose from and experiment with,'' writes Jenna Holt in her recently released ``Cooking With Spices for Dummies.''

``Spices'' is the umbrella term for spices, herbs and seeds, notes Anita Fial, a spokesperson for the American Spice Trade Association, representing 200 spice growers, shippers, packers and manufacturers worldwide. Classically, spices are the bark, root or fruit of plants that come from the tropics, while herbs are the fragrant leaves or flowers of temperate zone plants.

Bland is out - and spicy, spicy food is in, adds Fial. Throughout the country - even in areas like New England that have traditionally been devoid of highly flavorful foods - consumers are spicing up foods and using lots of dried red peppers, mustard, cumin and other more highly flavored spices, continues Fial.

In addition to increased interest in ethnic spices, spice blends are being used in increasing amounts, and numerous manufacturers have joined the bandwagon offering combinations ranging from Thai, pesto and Szechwan to Greek, fajita and Japanese seasonings and more. Blends are not only convenient and easy to use but also save cooks time.

In trying to replicate dishes they've been exposed to during their travels and restaurant experiences in other countries and cultures, consumers desiring unusual spices and seasonings have been a key factor in the growth of the gourmet spice category, which has increased almost 8 percent in the four-year period from 1997 to 2001, notes Trish Bellrose, marketing director for The Spice Hunter Inc., a San Luis Obispo-based manufacturer.

Spices are also being used in new and unexpected ways of late, points out Harrsen, such as pairing sweet with heat, adding an exotic spice or herb to a dessert, putting cinnamon in a spice rub for meat and even toasting spices to enhance flavor.

Spices are best stored in a cool, dark place away from heat, sunlight and moisture, with the lid tightly closed. Don't store them on the counter or on or near the stove-top. Seeds and whole spices can be kept three to four years if properly stored, says Harrsen.

Contrary to popular opinion, ground spices will last a year or two with proper conditions, she adds. Freezing spices is not recommended. But it's best to taste and smell spices before using to make sure the flavor hasn't faded.

For ways to use some of the more unusual spices and blends, give these recipes a whirl.

JAMMIN' JERK CHICKEN

1 tablespoon Caribbean OR Jamaican jerk seasoning

1 teaspoon thyme leaves

1 teaspoon onion powder

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice 

2 1/2 teaspoons orange juice

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1 1/4 pounds)

In a small bowl, combine jerk seasoning, thyme, onion powder, allspice and orange juice to make a spice paste. Rub paste on both sides of chicken. Grill or broil chicken over medium heat 5 to 7 minutes per side or until chicken is done. Makes 4 servings.

BOMBAY CHICKEN

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut in 1-inch cubes

3 tablespoons flour

1 tablespoon red curry powder

1 teaspoon garlic salt

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 1/2 cups chopped Golden Delicious apple

1 cup chopped onions

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon garam masala

1 (14-ounce) can light coconut milk

Condiments: chopped pistachios or peanuts; golden raisins; sliced green onions; flaked coconut; and mango chutney.

In a large self-closing plastic bag, combine chicken, flour, red curry powder and garlic salt; shake to coat.

Heat oil in large nonstick skillet. Add chicken cubes; saute until well browned. Reduce heat. Add apple and onions; cook 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in brown sugar, garam masala and coconut milk.

Cover and simmer 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve over rice with condiments of choice. Makes 4 servings.

SESAME GRILLED SALMON WITH WASABI MARINADE

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

2 tablespoons wasabi powder

1 tablespoon water

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 1/2 pounds salmon fillets

Toast sesame seeds over medium-high heat in a nonstick skillet until light, golden-brown, about 3 minutes. Combine wasabi powder, water and soy sauce in a small bowl. Add oil, vinegar, brown sugar and sesame seeds. Mix well. Reserve 2 tablespoons marinade for basting later.

Cut salmon fillets into 6 serving size pieces. Place salmon and marinade in self-closing plastic bag and seal. Refrigerate 30 minutes. Remove salmon from marinade. Discard marinade.

Grill or broil salmon over medium heat 8 to 10 minutes per inch of thickness or until fish flakes easily with a fork. Brush with reserved 2 tablespoons marinade during last 2 minutes of cooking time. Makes 6 servings.

THAI SHRIMP AND NOODLES

3 stalks freeze-dried lemon grass (from a jar)

Water

1/2 cup dry white wine OR sherry

1 1/2 teaspoons garlic salt

1 teaspoon Szechwan seasoning

1 pound fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined

2 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with 2 tablespoons cold water

6 ounces angel hair pasta OR Chinese (ramen) noodles

4 cups torn fresh spinach leaves

1/4 cup salted cashews

Place lemon grass and 3 cups hot water in a 1-quart glass measure; cover and heat in microwave oven on high power 5 minutes; cool. Remove lemon grass to cutting board. Reserve water. Slice lengthwise then finely chop.

In large skillet, combine lemon grass, reserved water, wine, garlic salt and Szechwan seasoning; bring to a boil. Stir in shrimp and cornstarch mixture. Cook and stir until shrimp turn pink and mixture thickens, about 3 to 4 minutes.

Meanwhile, in large saucepan, cook pasta in boiling salted water until done. Drain and rinse pasta. Return pasta to saucepan. Add spinach and shrimp mixture; toss. Garnish with chopped salted cashews. Makes 6 servings.

CAJUN PECAN FISH

1 pound catfish, red snapper, grouper OR other firm-fleshed fish fillets

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon thyme leaves

1/3 cup finely chopped pecans

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon dry bread crumbs

1 tablespoon parsley flakes

Lemon wedges

Coat a shallow baking pan with nonstick cooking spray; place fish in pan.

In a small bowl, combine oil, Cajun seasoning, lemon juice and thyme. Spoon or brush 1/2 of mixture over fish. Add pecans, Parmesan cheese, bread crumbs and parsley to remaining oil mixture; mix well. Spoon onto fish and spread evenly. Bake in preheated 425-degree oven 10 to 15 minutes (depending on thickness of fish) or until fish flakes easily with a fork. Garnish with lemon wedges. Makes 4 servings.

THAI FRUIT SALSA

1 1/2 cups seeded, diced tomatoes

1 cup diced mango

1 cup diced avocado

1 tablespoon instant minced onion

1 tablespoon lime juice

1 teaspoon crushed basil leaves

1/2 teaspoon garlic salt

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper OR 1/4 teaspoon Thai seasoning

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

Flaked coconut

In a medium bowl, combine tomatoes, mango, avocado, onion, lime juice, basil, garlic salt, red pepper and allspice. Sprinkle salsa with sweetened flaked coconut, if desired. Serve with grilled or broiled shrimp, salmon, tuna, chicken or pork or tortilla chips. Makes 3 1/2 cups salsa.

CHIPOTLE BLACK BEAN SALSA

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can diced tomatoes, well drained

1 (8 3/4-ounce) can whole kernel corn, well drained

1 cup rinsed and drained black beans

2 tablespoons chopped red onions

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon chipotle chile pepper

1/4 teaspoon salt

Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Cover and chill 30 minutes. Stir just before serving on tortilla chips. Makes 16 (2-tablespoon) servings.

BLACK BEAN CHIPOTLE DIP

1 (15-ounce) can black beans, rinsed, drained and mashed

1/2 cup sour cream

1/4 cup tomato paste

1 teaspoon chipotle chile pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

2 tablespoons chopped onions

2 tablespoons diced tomatoes

1 teaspoon chopped fresh cilantro

Combine beans, sour cream, tomato paste, chipotle chile pepper and cumin; mix well. Refrigerate 20 minutes.

Garnish top of dip with onions, tomatoes and cilantro. Serve with tortilla chips and salsa or guacamole, if desired. Makes 14 (2-tablespoon) servings.

GRILLED TROPICAL FRUIT SKEWERS

1/2 cup packed brown sugar

1/4 cup rum

2 teaspoons vanilla

1/2 teaspoon ground Saigon cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper

1 large pineapple, peeled, cored and cut into 2x1-inch pieces

4 ripe red OR 2 ripe yellow bananas, peeled and cut into 2x1-inch pieces

2 star fruit, cut into 1-inch slices

12 skewers

In a small bowl, stir first 6 ingredients until sugar dissolves. Set aside.

Thread fruit alternately onto double skewers (see Note). Brush with spice mixture. Let stand 5 minutes. Grill or broil fruit skewers 10 minutes or until brown, basting with spice mixture and turning occasionally. Makes 6 servings.

NOTE: To prevent pieces of fruit from spinning around as you turn kabobs, thread fruit onto two parallel skewers for each kabob.

Posh, not scary

If you're wondering about some of the newer spices and spice blends on supermarket shelves, here are some brief descriptions. Keep in mind that ingredients and amounts will vary from brand to brand.

ANCHO CHILE PEPPER: A dried poblano chile pepper (the most commonly used dried chile in Mexico), this is one of the larger chiles grown in the central region of Mexico and is mildly hot in flavor. Generally used in combination with other chiles to achieve a more complex flavor character in things like chili con carne, spice rubs and Southwest marinades.

CHIPOTLE CHILE PEPPER: A dried and smoked green jalapeno chile pepper grown in Mexico, the chipotle has a distinctive smoky, sweet, meaty flavor and a high heat level. Ground chipotle is easier for consumers to use than whole dried chiles because it is easier to control the flavor level, the amount used, and to combine with other chile varieties to create complex chile flavors.

GARAM MASALA: A sweet, aromatic spice blend traditionally used in Indian cooking, this blend usually contains varying amounts of cardamom, cinnamon, black pepper, cumin, coriander and whole cloves. An authentic blend normally does not contain salt.

LEMON GRASS: Native to Thailand, Indonesia, the Philippines and Malaysia, this herb has a light and fresh lemony green flavor note. Typically used in soups, curries, sauces and marinades, it's available fresh in some markets, but bottled versions are now available containing freeze-dried whole stalks or pulverized lemon grass.

RED CURRY POWDER: A mix of select sweet and savory spices and hot chiles, this seasoning can be used to make Indian curry dishes and many Thai recipes. An authentic red curry powder usually contains coriander, cumin, chile pepper, red pepper and cardamom.

SZECHWAN SEASONING: A bottled blend of chile peppers, garlic and ginger, this seasoning lends spicy-hot overtones reminiscent of the Szechwan province of China to dishes.

WASABI POWDER: In a bottled rendition, you'll find a Japanese version of horseradish, with a sharp, pungent and fiery flavor, mixed with mustard flour and cornstarch. Wasabi is typically served in restaurants as a green-colored condiment with sushi. Use the powder to flavor vinaigrettes, marinades, sandwich spreads and mashed potatoes. Mix with water to make wasabi paste for take-home sushi.

SPICE TRACK

The 10 top-selling spices at retail:

Black pepper

Garlic powder

Minced onion

Cinnamon

Chili powder

Parsley flakes

Oregano

Nutmeg

Basil

Paprika

And cumin is close behind, signaling the changing palate of the nation and cooks!

CAPTION(S):

4 photos, 2 boxes

Photo:

(1 -- cover -- color) SPICE IT UP

Add pizazz with a palette of flavors

(2 -- 4 -- color) Zip up your menu with flavorful creations like Thai Fruit Salad and shrimp, above left, Jammin' Jerk Chicken, above, and Bombay Chicken, right, using offbeat spices now available on supermarket shelves.

Box:

(1) SPICE TRACK (see text)

(2) POSH, NOT SCARY (see text)