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A LA CARTE IN RAINY WEATHER, CIOPPINO HITS THE SPOT.


Byline: Larry Lipson

Last year around this time, reader Richard Genovese Richard Genovese (born 1947) is a collagist, photographer, painter, and theorist.

Genovese is the intitiator of the Altered Lithograph, Excavation collage and novel, Manchando photography and the Spiral Poem.
 of Toluca Lake wanted to know where to find cioppino ciop·pi·no  
n. pl. ciop·pi·nos
A stew made of several kinds of fish and shellfish, tomatoes, and white wine.



[Italian, perhaps variant of northwest Italian ciuppin.]
.

This year, reader Liz Bonilla of San Fernando San Fernando, city, Argentina
San Fernando (săn fərnăn`dō), city (1991 pop. 144,761), Buenos Aires prov., E Argentina. It is a district administrative center in the Greater Buenos Aires area.
 has the same question.

For both of them and for anyone else who pines for this favored melange mé·lange also me·lange  
n.
A mixture: "[a] building crowned with a mélange of antennae and satellite dishes" Howard Kaplan.
 of seafood in a tomato-flavored broth, here are a few local restaurants serving cioppinos worth consideration:

Bistro Italia

Address: 8635 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills Beverly Hills, city (1990 pop. 31,971), Los Angeles co., S Calif., completely surrounded by the city of Los Angeles; inc. 1914. The largely residential city is home to many motion-picture and television personalities. .

Phone: (310) 659-6740.

Description: Lobster, clams, shrimp, scallops, mussels, crab legs and whitefish whitefish: see salmon.
whitefish

Any of several silvery food fishes (family Salmonidae, or Coregonidae), inhabiting cold northern lakes of Europe, Asia, and North America.
 float in a seasoned tomato and white wine broth.

Price: $17.95.

Clearwater Seafood

Address: 168 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena.

Phone: (626) 356-0959.

Description: Made with a fish-bone and tomato broth, it's flavored with garlic and basil and contains salmon, sturgeon sturgeon, primitive fish of the northern regions of Europe, Asia, and North America. Unlike evolutionarily advanced fishes, it has a fine-grained hide, with very reduced scalation, a mostly cartilaginous skeleton, upturned tail fins, and a mouth set well back on the , mahi-mahi, yellowtail, Dungeness crab, shrimp, Manila clams, black mussels and squid.

Price: $19.95.

Crab House

Address: 350 N. Lantana lantana (lăntā`nə): see verbena.
lantana

Any of more than 150 shrubs that make up the genus Lantana in the verbena family, native to the New World and African tropics.
 St., Camarillo.

Phone: (805) 987-4979.

Description: Simmered for eight hours, this version has mussels, clams, snow crab legs, shrimp and eight varieties of fish in a rich, spicy tomato broth containing carrots, celery and onions.

Price: $15.95.

Delmonico's Seafood Grille

Address: 16358 Ventura Blvd., Encino. (Also in Beverly Hills.)

Phone: (818) 986-0777.

Description: Here called zuppa alla pescatore, it's made with saffron broth and served in a huge bowl with a few angel hair noodles noo·dle 1  
n.
A narrow, ribbonlike strip of dried dough, usually made of flour, eggs, and water.



[German Nudel.
, a lobster claw, mussels, clams, shrimp, scallops and and a fish du jour.

Price: $21.95.

King's Fish House

Address: 4798 Commons Way, Calabasas.

Phone: (818) 225-1979.

Description: In addition to fresh fish, the cioppino here possesses Dungeness crab, shrimp, calamari, mussels and clams.

Price: $19.95.

McCormick & Schmick's

Address: 111 N. Los Robles Robles is a common surname in the Spanish language meaning oaks, and may refer to:
  • Alfonso García Robles (1911-1991), Mexican diplomat and politician
  • Aurora Robles (born 1980), Mexican fashion model
  • Charlie Robles (born 1943), Puerto Rican musician
 Ave., Pasadena. (Also in Beverly Hills, downtown L.A. and elsewhere.)

Phone: (626) 405-0064.

Description: This cioppino, titled Pacific seafood stew, offers sauteed Dungeness crab, calamari, mussels and several fish in a tomato-fennel broth.

Price: $17.90.

Ocean Avenue Seafood

Address: 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica.

Phone: (310) 394-5669.

Description: Crab, clams, calamari, shrimp, mussels and fish come forth in a flavored tomato broth.

Price: $21.95.

Pasta Michi

Address: 13919 Foothill Blvd., Sylmar.

Phone: (818) 362-5827.

Description: A light fish broth with a touch of tomato sauce and traditional Italian seasonings holds whitefish, clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops and calamari.

Price: $19.

Sid's Seafood House

Address: 21911 Roscoe Blvd., Canoga Park.

Phone: (818) 887-1692.

Description: Part of a complete dinner, Sid's tomato-based fish stew contains shrimp, crab, scallops, fresh cod, mussels and clams.

Price: $25.95.

Sisley Italian Kitchen

Address: 15300 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. (Also in Valencia and West L.A.)

Phone: (818) 905-8444.

Description: In fish stock flavored with white wine and tomato sauce you'll find shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams, calamari and whitefish.

Price: $17.95.

.5 Do you have a question about restaurants? Mail it to Larry Lipson, P.O. Box 4200, Woodland Hills, Calif. 91365-4200, and look for the answer in a future dining beat column in the Wednesday Food section.
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Title Annotation:L.A. Life
Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Date:Feb 20, 2000
Words:490
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