A LA CARTE FRANKLY, IT'S HOT DOG TIME.

Byline: Larry Lipson

Cooking hot dogs on the backyard barbecue or any other way is a national Labor Day weekend pastime.

But if you want to taste them cooked by professionals, and in L.A. that can be everything from one made without any meat to one made with duck meat, then here are a few frankfurter outlets worth consideration:

Cupid's

Address: 16550 Ventura Blvd., Encino. (Also in Tarzana, Northridge, Van Nuys and elsewhere.)

Phone: [phone].

Comments: It's a Valley institution, seemingly always having a line of customers waiting for its snappy, fresh hot dog.

Picks: It's the basic frankfurter, loved by purists, priced at $2.25.

Flooky's

Address: 21034 Victory Blvd., Woodland Hills. (Also in Canoga Park.)

Phone: [phone].

Comments: Chicago-style dogs with decent snap on above-average sesame bun.

Picks: The regular steamed, big, all-beef kosher dog ($2.75) comes with relish, mustard, onions, tomatoes, pickles and pepper. (Also available in quarter and half-pound versions.)

Hot Dog Factory

Address: 8958 Corbin Ave., Northridge.

Phone: [phone].

Comments: Good value here because of the condiment bar where 21 additional options include chili, kraut, pickles, peppers, relishes, salsa, cheeses, mustards, dressings and sauces.

Picks: The charbroiled Vienna beef dog on a poppy-seed bun is almost a meal with all the condiments and only $2.59. Jumbo, spiced and other varieties available.

Jody Maroni's Sausage Kingdom

Address: Universal CityWalk, 1000 Universal Center Drive, Universal City. (Also in Venice, Dodger Stadium and elsewhere.)

Phone: [phone].

Comments: Not your everyday hot dog stand, they're known as ``the home of the haute dog.''

Picks: The Yucatan ($4.32) is made with duck meat and chicken and flavored with cilantro, serrano chilies, garlic and beer.

Papoo's Hot Dog Show

Address: 4300 Riverside Drive, Burbank.

Phone: [phone].

Comments: Half-century-old Toluca Lake landmark (circa 1949) dispenses a slew of different dogs.

Picks: The regular is $2.25, but we recommend the all-beef quarter-pounder on a French roll for $2.95.

Pink's

Address: 709 N. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles.

Phone: [phone].

Comments: The legendary (since 1939) L.A. dog spot is known as a place where celebrities in limos stop by for their frankfurter fix.

Picks: Regular chili dog is $2.35, the same price for the new veggie meatless dog.

QT's Chicago Dogs

Address: 8650 Reseda Blvd., Northridge.

Phone: [phone].

Comments: It's about as close to the real Chicago dog as you can find.

Picks: The regular Vienna beef and bun from Chicago with such additions as onions, relish, mustard, celery salt, tomato, hot pepper and dill pickle is $2.29.

Rubin's Red Hots

Address: 15318 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Comments: More Chicago. This drive-through structure's iron support was part of the Windy City's original El (elevated railroad). How authentic can you get?

Picks: Take the Big Red, a quarter-pound, kosher, all-beef frank ($3.55) with the obligatory mustard, relish, onions, tomato, pepper, pickle, cucumber and celery salt.

Tail o' the Pup 

Address: 329 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood.

Phone: [phone].

Comments: From the famous stand (opened in 1946) that looks like a hot dog come all-beef customized dogs.

Picks: The baseball frank is a regular dog at $2.30 and we like the Mexican Ole ($2.50) with chili, grated parmesan, onions and mustard by request.

Wiener Factory

Address: 14917 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

Phone: [phone].

Comments: Well-known local hot doggery features beef, turkey and Polish frankfurters.

Picks: Regular all-beef rendition is $1.85.