A LA CARTE : VALLEY'S BUSY BISTROS.Byline: Larry Lipson The pendulum swings. For a long time it was Italian, Italian and more Italian. Now the French have inched back into favor, and although the Italian trattoria trat·to·ri·a n. pl. trat·to·ri·as or trat·to·ri·e An informal restaurant or tavern serving simple Italian dishes. [Italian, from trattore, host, from trattare explosion has caused even French-style bistros to serve the obligatory pasta dishes, the California-French, New American-French, Euro-Cal-French and a few other Gallic-accented combinations are firmly ensconced en·sconce tr.v. en·sconced, en·sconc·ing, en·sconc·es 1. To settle (oneself) securely or comfortably: She ensconced herself in an armchair. 2. as favorites of the Valley's Ventura Boulevard Ventura Boulevard is one of the primary east-west thouroughfares in the San Fernando Valley; as it was originally a part of the El Camino Real (the trail between Spanish missions), Ventura Boulevard is the oldest route in the San Fernando Valley. It was also U.S. . Here are a few of those local restaurants with enough French bistro-style characteristics to be worth consideration: Bistro Garden Address: 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. Phone: (818) 501-0202. Comments: It calls itself a bistro, but it's really a fashionable restaurant of somewhat continental persuasion with perhaps the prettiest dining room in the Valley and a clientele of mature celebrities and diamond-bedecked dowagers. Picks: Be safe with rack of lamb Noun 1. rack of lamb - a roast of the rib section of lamb crown roast rack - rib section of a forequarter of veal or pork or especially lamb or mutton lamb roast, roast lamb - a cut of lamb suitable for roasting and the signature chocolate souffle souffle /souf·fle/ (soo´f'l) a soft, blowing auscultatory sound. cardiac souffle any cardiac or vascular murmur of a blowing quality. . Cafe Bizou Address: 14016 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. Phone: (818) 788-3536. Comments: Wonderful food, handsomely presented, at very reasonable prices has caused this gem to be a long-running hit with no suggestion of losing ground. Picks: Chef-partner Neil Rogers Neil Rogers (born Nelson Roger Behelfer, November 5, 1942) is a 'legendary' American talk radio personality in the Miami-Ft. Lauderdale media market. Currently, Rogers' "The Neil Rogers Show," airs weekdays from 10am-2pm on 560 WQAM. makes marvelous fish-in-red-wine-sauce creations, allowing wine buffs to bring in their best red wines ($2 corkage cork·age n. A charge exacted at a restaurant for every bottle of liquor served that was not bought on the premises. corkage Noun a charge made at a restaurant for serving wine bought elsewhere ) to savor. California Canteen Address: 3311 Cahuenga Blvd. W., Universal City area. Phone: (323) 876-1702. Comments: Actually located on the eastern extension of Ventura Boulevard past Lankershim Boulevard, this charming Cal-Euro-French canteen-bistro looks and acts the part admirably, drawing a lively show-biz crowd. Picks: You'll love the charcuterie platter and an order of mussels with a side of pommes frites. JoeJoe's Address: 13355 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. Phone: (818) 990-8280. Comments: With a heritage like Joe's of Venice, it's bound to be good. Picks: Any crusted fish with any flavored mashed potato combination receives our immediate nod. Le Petit Bistro Address: 13360 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. Phone: (818) 501-7999. Comments: It's colorful, moderately priced and very French. You couldn't ask for a truer bistro. Picks: Begin with the eggplant and tomato tart and move on to the roasted chicken and pommes frites. Don't forget the glass of red wine. Mistral Mis·tral , Frédéric 1830-1914. French writer and leader in the revival of Provençal as a literary language. He shared the 1904 Nobel Prize for literature. mis·tral n. Address: 13422 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. Phone: (818) 981-6650. Comments: The original bistro spinoff of the late La Serre, it has great interior looks, pours a good drink and knows how bistro fare is supposed to look and taste. Picks: There's pissaladiere (onion and anchovy anchovy: see herring. anchovy Any of more than 100 species of schooling saltwater fishes (family Engraulidae) related to the herring. Anchovies are distinguished by a large mouth, almost always extending behind the eye, and by a pointed snout. tart), worthwhile onion soup, escargots and a juicy entrecote en·tre·côte n. A cut of steak taken from between the ribs. [French : entre, between (from Latin inter; see inter-) + côte, rib (from Latin costa with frites to enjoy. Paul's Cafe Address: 13456 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. Phone: (818) 789-3575. Comments: With Bizou/Joe's inspiration, this is the newest hit on the boulevard, packed every night. Picks: Rack of lamb with a goat cheese and potato tart and the pepper-crusted salmon with red wine sauce are two of the hottest entrees. Perroche Address: 11929 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. Phone: (818) 766-1179. Comments: Sort of a British take of a French bistro with a French-sounding name that is actually an English goat cheese. Don't be confused. Try it. It's terrific. The restaurant that is; the goat cheese is unobtainable here. Picks: Smoked ginger-flavored trout, pan-roasted cod and the whole, tarragon-sauced baby chicken with beets will get you started well. Pinot Bistro Address: 12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. Phone: (818) 990-0500. Comments: Joachim Splichal's Valley endeavor has talented partner Octavio Becerra in the kitchen. Picks: Potato-crusted whitefish whitefish: see salmon. whitefish Any of several silvery food fishes (family Salmonidae, or Coregonidae), inhabiting cold northern lakes of Europe, Asia, and North America. is a must. And there's always a worthy steak frites. Tabu Bistro Address: 18607 Ventura Blv., Tarzana. Phone: (818) 758-9368. Comments: PAnother Bizou-like hit with many similar entrees. Picks: There's the $1 soup or salad, also a good inexpensive bouillabaisse bouil·la·baisse n. 1. A highly seasoned stew made of several kinds of fish and shellfish. 2. A combination of various different, often incongruous elements: a bouillabaisse of special interests. and a nifty plate of sliced rare duck breast with cherry sauce. Wine Bistro Address: 11915 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. Phone: (818) 766-6233. Comments: It's almost a studio annex and has a devoted clientele that keeps returning year after year. Picks: Look for the occasional good calf's liver Bercy here or salmon moutarde. End with tarte tatin or creme brulee. |
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