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A LA CARTE : THE NUMBERS GAME.


Byline: Larry Lipson

Naming a restaurant isn't easy. If it's too cute on wordplay, customers may not remember it easily.

Unusual spellings or obscure foreign names also tend to discourage memory.

So many use a simple name - Spago, Posto, Jimmy's, Joe's, the Ivy, the Grill - or a street number.

Here are a few local restaurants that have picked a numerical name and are worth culinary consideration:

Bistro 45

Address: 45 S. Mentor Ave., Pasadena.

Phone: (818) 795-2478.

Cuisine: California-French.

Comments: Not a bistro at all, this upscale dining spot has a deep, extremely interesting wine inventory and numerous stylish, sometimes quite complex, dishes.

Picks: Pork tenderloin Noun 1. pork tenderloin - pork loin muscle
tenderloin, undercut - the tender meat of the loin muscle on each side of the vertebral column
 with either an anise-infused fig reduction or an apricot-flavored sauce, salmon with leeks, venison venison (vĕn`ĭzən) [O.Fr.,=hunting], term formerly applied to the flesh of any wild beast or game hunted and used for food but now restricted to the flesh of members of the deer family.  leg with a cabernet-pomegranate sauce and a rich, seared sear 1  
v. seared, sear·ing, sears

v.tr.
1. To char, scorch, or burn the surface of with or as if with a hot instrument. See Synonyms at burn1.

2.
 foie gras foie gras (fwä grä) [Fr.,=fat liver], livers of artificially fattened geese. Ducks and chickens are also sometimes used in the making of foie gras. .

Delacey's Club 41

Address: 41 S. Delacey St., Pasadena.

Phone: (818) 795-4141.

Cuisine: American.

Comments: Here's a superior steak, chop and traditional American grill restaurant that deserves more attention than it gets.

Picks: The tableside-tossed Caesar is one of the best you'll find and the basic beef fare (steaks, prime rib) is always satisfying.

2424 Pico

Address: 2424 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica.

Phone: (310) 581-1124.

Cuisine: International.

Comments: Here's a much-touted new spot that roams the map for its culinary inspiration.

Picks: Such intrigues as Korean tacos with marinated steak, grilled fresh sardines, slow-cooked lamb shank shank (shangk)
1. leg (1).

2. crus ( 2).


shank
n.
The part of the human leg between the knee and ankle.
 and soba noodles noo·dle 1  
n.
A narrow, ribbonlike strip of dried dough, usually made of flour, eggs, and water.



[German Nudel.
 with chicken meatballs are just a few of the interesting dishes here.

One Pico

Address: Shutters on the Beach Hotel Shutters on the Beach is an U.S. luxury hotel located on the beach in Santa Monica, California. It is owned by The Edward Thomas Hospitality Corporation, a U.S. corporation. It is a member of The Leading Hotels of the World, a marketing and trade association. , 1 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica.

Phone: (310) 458-0030.

Cuisine: Contemporary American.

Comments: You won't find a closer beach and ocean view dining room than this one.

Picks: Try the sweet and hot Chilean sea bass or spicy shrimp in linguine.

Restaurant 2117

Address: 2117 Sawtelle Blvd., West Los Angeles
  • West Los Angeles, Los Angeles, California, a neighborhood of Los Angeles
  • West Los Angeles (region), a popularly identified region of Los Angeles, incorporating the neighborhood above
.

Phone: (310) 477-1617.

Cuisine: Franco-Asian.

Comments: In the former Cafe Katsu and Cafe Neil space, this is one of the 10 best new restaurants picked by local critics and listed in the August issue of Los Angeles magazine.

Picks: Fresh fish carpaccio car·pac·cio  
n.
Very thinly sliced raw meat or fish, especially beef or tuna, garnished with a sauce.



[Italian, after Vittore Carpaccio, who favored red pigments.
, lamb chops with grilled eggplant and ginger-scented duck with green onion sauce are standouts on a surprisingly inexpensive menu.

72 Market Street

Address: 72 Market St., Venice.

Phone: (310) 392-8720.

Cuisine: Contemporary American.

Comments: Tony Bill and Dudley Moore's place. Since chef Roland Gibert has headed the kitchen, there's a welcome French hint in the food.

Picks: Still great for oysters, chili and meatloaf.

R-23

Address: 923 E. 3rd St., Los Angeles.

Phone: (213) 687-7178.

Cuisine: Japanese.

Comments: Ultra-artistic in looks, this hard-to-find warehouse district room has the niftiest cardboard seats you've ever seen.

Picks: The chef pulls a colorful ceramic platter off the wall and arranges upon it an array of the finest fresh sushi in texture-perfect, aesthetic splendor. There's also live shrimp and other lures.
COPYRIGHT 1996 Daily News
No portion of this article can be reproduced without the express written permission from the copyright holder.
Copyright 1996, Gale Group. All rights reserved. Gale Group is a Thomson Corporation Company.

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Article Details
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Title Annotation:L.A. LIFE
Publication:Daily News (Los Angeles, CA)
Date:Jul 25, 1996
Words:468
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