A LA CARTE : TERRIFIC TUNA TARTARE.Byline: Larry Lipson Sushi-savvy restaurantgoers of the '90s find it a lot easier to consume raw tuna tartare
Examples are
In fact, there are still some diners who turn pale at the thought of eating raw fish. Tuna, though, is becoming fairly common as tuna carpaccio car·pac·cio n. Very thinly sliced raw meat or fish, especially beef or tuna, garnished with a sauce. [Italian, after Vittore Carpaccio, who favored red pigments. , and is of meaty texture, perfectly suited to replace the heavier, denser steak tartare favorite of yesteryear. Tuna lends itself to spicy accents. There are countless ways to present this colorful appetizer dish. Here are some of them and the restaurants where they're served: Bistro Garden at Coldwater Address: 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City. Phone: (818) 501-0202. Cuisine: Contemporary continental. Description: Diced ahi tuna is seasoned with fresh ginger, olive oil and soy sauce, then mixed with chopped avocado and shaped into a patty and served with white toast points. Price: $9.25. Boxer Address: 7615 W. Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles. Phone: (213) 932-6178. Cuisine: New American. Description: Chef Neal Fraser prettily arranges the delicate cubes of shiny tuna with a seaweed salad, hot mustard and crisp potato into one of the handsomest appetizers in town. Price: $11. Gadsbys's Address: 672 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles. Phone: (213) 936-8471. Cuisine: International. Description: Diced yellowfin tuna is marinated by chef Robert Gadsby at the last minute in a soy mixture with siracha chili, ginger and sesame seed oil, then mixed with finely chopped green onions and two mushrooms (shiitake shiitake, n See lentinan. and China doll). It's served dramatically in a martini glass with oyster croquettes. Price: $10. Jackson's Farm Address: 439 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills. Phone: (310) 273-5578. Cuisine: American. Description: Three styles of tuna come as a single order. One is raw, tartare style, one is crusted, and the third is seared sear 1 v. seared, sear·ing, sears v.tr. 1. To char, scorch, or burn the surface of with or as if with a hot instrument. See Synonyms at burn1. 2. with a peppered edge. The dish is served with ponzu sauce, mixed greens and chopped tomato. The tartare is a combination of diced ahi and a lemon dressing. Price: $11.50. JoeJoe's Address: 13355 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. Phone: (818) 990-8280. Cuisine: New American. Description: Chef Thomas Munoz dices ahi tuna, then mixes it with finely diced shallots, onions, capers CAPERS. Vessels of war owned by private persons, and different from ordinary privateers (q.v.) only in size, being smaller. Bea. Lex. Mer. 230. and green peppercorn pep·per·corn n. 1. A dried berry of the pepper vine Piper nigrum. 2. A small or insignificant thing. peppercorn Noun the small dried berry of the pepper plant mayonnaise. It's served sphere-shaped with sliced cucumbers, lemon and tomato. Price: $8. L.A. Farm Address: 3000 W. Olympic Blvd., Santa Monica. Phone: (310) 449-4000. Cuisine: French bistro. Description: Ahi tuna is hand-diced, melded with capers, parsley and a touch of mayonnaise, then is ball-formed and stuffed into filo FILO - stack dough, providing a fine-looking dish. Price: $9.50. Maple Drive Address: 345 N. Maple Drive, Beverly Hills. Phone: (310) 274-5927. Cuisine: California. Description: Sashimi-grade tuna is diced and mixed with vinaigrette made with soy sauce, champagne, wasabi, horseradish horseradish Hardy perennial plant (Armoracia lapathifolia) of the mustard family, native to Mediterranean lands and grown throughout the temperate zones. Its hotly pungent, fleshy root is used as a condiment and is traditionally considered medicinal. and lemon juice and finally mixed with diced cucumber forming a patty. It's served with Japanese daikon dai·kon n. A white radish (Raphanus sativus var. longipinnatus) of Japan, having a long root that is eaten raw, pickled, or cooked. Also called Chinese radish, Japanese radish, Oriental radish. coleslaw. Price: $14. Papashon Address: 15910 Ventura Blvd., Encino. Phone: (213) 660-4446. Cuisine: Pacific Rim. Description: Chef Sean Sheridan's recipe has small pieces of fresh ahi tuna tossed with a wasabi vinaigrette and served with julienned vegetables. Price: $8.50. Vida Address: . Phone: (213) 660-4446. Cuisine: New American. Description: Chef Fred Eric calls it ``toro, tora, torah'' and it's a tuna and salmon tartare served in a ramekin ram·e·kin also ram·e·quin n. 1. A cheese preparation made with eggs and bread crumbs or unsweetened puff pastry, baked and served in individual dishes. 2. A small dish used for baking and serving. with half and half salmon and tuna garnished with ``dots'' of smoked eel. The tartares are layered with smoky shiitake dashi da·shi n. A clear soup stock, usually with a fish or vegetable base. [Japanese, broth.] consomme. The tartare is a mixture of diced raw fish with Japanese shallots, ginger and shiso. There's even a small salad on the side. Price: $7.50. |
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