A LA CARTE : SO WHERE HAVE ALL THE CIOPPINOS GONE?Byline: Larry Lipson According to according to prep. 1. As stated or indicated by; on the authority of: according to historians. 2. In keeping with: according to instructions. 3. reader Richard Genovese Richard Genovese (born 1947) is a collagist, photographer, painter, and theorist. Genovese is the intitiator of the Altered Lithograph, Excavation collage and novel, Manchando photography and the Spiral Poem. of Toluca Lake, good cioppinos like those he enjoyed at the former Hungry Tiger restaurant (a defunct seafood chain) are no longer easy to find. ``I get it in San Francisco San Francisco (săn frănsĭs`kō), city (1990 pop. 723,959), coextensive with San Francisco co., W Calif., on the tip of a peninsula between the Pacific Ocean and San Francisco Bay, which are connected by the strait known as the Golden ,'' he writes, ``L.A. never.'' Cioppino ciop·pi·no n. pl. ciop·pi·nos A stew made of several kinds of fish and shellfish, tomatoes, and white wine. [Italian, perhaps variant of northwest Italian ciuppin.] , a large bowl of seafood in a tomato-flavored broth, was, of course, popularized in San Francisco. For reader Genovese and others pining for this dish, here are a few local restaurants with renditions worth consideration: Clearwater Seafood Address: 168 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena. Phone: (626) 356-0959. Cuisine: Seafood. Description: Made fresh daily with a fish-bone and tomato broth, cioppino here is flavored with garlic and basil and contains a fish and shellfish mix of salmon, sturgeon sturgeon, primitive fish of the northern regions of Europe, Asia, and North America. Unlike evolutionarily advanced fishes, it has a fine-grained hide, with very reduced scalation, a mostly cartilaginous skeleton, upturned tail fins, and a mouth set well back on the , mahi-mahi, yellowtail, Dungeness crab Dungeness crab Edible crab (Cancer magister) found along the Pacific coast from Alaska to lower California, one of the coast's largest and most important commercial crabs. The male is 7–9 in. (18–23 cm) wide and 4–5 in. (10–13 cm) long. , shrimp, Manila clams, black mussels and squid. Price: $18.95. Crab House Address: 350 N. Lantana lantana (lăntā`nə): see verbena. lantana Any of more than 150 shrubs that make up the genus Lantana in the verbena family, native to the New World and African tropics. St., Camarillo. Phone: (805) 987-4979. Cuisine: Seafood. Description: Mussels, clams, snow crab legs, shrimp and eight varieties of fish are served in a rich, spicy tomato broth that contains carrots, celery and onions and is simmered for eight hours. Price: $14.95. Delmonico's Seafood Grille Address: 16358 Ventura Blvd., Encino. Phone: (818) 986-0777. Cuisine: Seafood. Description: Called zuppa alla pescatore, this version of cioppino is made with a saffron broth and has a sprinkling of angel hair in the huge bowl that contains a lobster claw, mussels, clams, shrimp, scallops and changing fish. Price: $18.95. Fins Seafood Grill Address: 982 Westlake Blvd., Westlake Village. Phone: (805) 494-6494. Cuisine: Seafood. Description: Medley of seafood in a tomato broth with Italian seasonings and bell peppers (green, red and gold) includes mussels, clams, calamari, shrimp, scallops and three types of whitefish whitefish: see salmon. whitefish Any of several silvery food fishes (family Salmonidae, or Coregonidae), inhabiting cold northern lakes of Europe, Asia, and North America. . Price: $21.95. McCormick & Schmick's Address: 111 N. Los Robles Robles is a common surname in the Spanish language meaning oaks, and may refer to:
Phone: (626) 405-0064. Cuisine: Seafood. Description: It's called Pacific seafood stew rather than cioppino here, but it's a melange mé·lange also me·lange n. A mixture: "[a] building crowned with a mélange of antennae and satellite dishes" Howard Kaplan. of sauteed Dungeness crab, calamari, mussels and several fish in a tomato-fennel broth, and is served in a large bowl. Sounds very cioppinolike to me. Price: $17.80. Ocean Ave. Seafood Address: 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica. Phone: (310) 394-5669. Cuisine: Seafood. Description: Crab, shrimp, mussels, clams, calamari and changing fresh fish are served in a flavored tomato broth. Price: $21.95. Pasta Michi Address: 13919 Foothill Blvd., Sylmar. Phone: (818) 362-5827. Cuisine: Italian. Description: Whitefish, clams, mussels, shrimp, scallops and calamari are added to a light fish broth ``with a touch of tomato sauce'' and traditional Italian seasonings. Price: $19. Sid's Seafood House Address: 21911 Roscoe Blvd., Canoga Park. Phone: (818) 887-1692. Cuisine: Seafood. Description: Sid's calls it a seasoned, tomato-based fish stew containing shrimp, crab, scallops, fresh cod, mussels and clams. Price: $24.95. Sisley Italian Kitchen Address: 15300 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. Phone: (818) 905-8444. Cuisine: Italian. Description: Cioppino here is made with a fish stock flavored with white wine and tomato sauce. It contains shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams, calamari and whitefish. Price: $16.95. |
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